My wife hit a tire and now front sensor reported an issue. Car is charging so I can’t see what it exactly says. From the picture I’ve attached, looks like something got ripped out. This is right under the VW logo in front.
Has this happened to anyone in the USA? Did you go through insurance? What was the cost?
Thanks
MTG is selling the extension batteries. Hefty price though. $6500, that’s including shipping but not install. Adds 60-70 miles of range. What other questions should I ask? My eGolf is already over 10 years old. I don’t know if it’s worth it at this point.
Dear members,
I have a 2018 e-Golf and it no longer starts. Earlier this week, I got the message “12V battery low”, telling me that I needed to drive the car in order to recharge it.
Using the OBD port, I checked the voltage of the 12V battery, and it showed between 12.7V and 13.3V while driving. However, the warning message remained. The next day, the warning was gone. I then made two trips totaling about 80 km and stopped at a parking lot. After that, the warning came back.
I drove home and checked the car again using the OBD scanner. The battery voltage was 14.4V. When I tried to drive away again, the car had some kind of hiccup, so I pulled into a parking space, switched the car off, and tried to restart it.
It would no longer start.
The car displayed the following message:
“Towing will damage the electrical system – consult owner’s manual.”
I checked the manual, but unfortunately there was nothing useful in there.
I then scanned the car again and got the following fault codes:
Volkswagen trouble code U041600
Volkswagen trouble code U011100
There were also 28 other errors, but I assume these are related to the fact that communication between various modules is no longer possible.
The most logical next step seemed to be replacing the 12V battery, so I installed a new one today. Unfortunately, all the warnings are still there. Clearing the fault codes does not help, and the car still refuses to start.
The new battery also appears to be discharging. It is currently showing 11.64V, and the voltage does not seem to increase.
Has anyone experienced something similar or knows what could be causing this?
I have also checked all the fuses, and none of them are blown.
The strange thing is that everything else seems to work: electric windows, keyless entry, infotainment screen, lights, etc. The only problem is that the car will not start or go into gear.
The electronic parking brake does not work either. I can press the button, but nothing happens.
The new 12v battery is the same as the old one. Same value.
All help is welcome
It really is amazing how well they stand the test of time. This is based off of strictly driving in eco+ mode in miserably hot midwest August weather!
I swear, this 2019 SE would be the PERFECT car if it could get 300mi range. I’ve only had to change all tires, set of led high and low beams, and the 12v battery once and am currently at 93k! 100mi range in eco if I’m lucky just isn’t cutting it anymore. Gasoline, here I come!
2016, 4 years in my ownership, (bought it with 18.000km) still drives like new, at full charge it shows 170km (106 miles)
Today finally bought myself an e-golf, supply and demand is absolutely nuts in Holland at the moment but finally got my hands on one 😁.
Love this color and this car is so frikkin comfortable.
5-2020 and 53k km driven SoH 91% and has very rarely seen a fast charger.
Can't wait to have it on the driveway!
Typical bay area performance with a 96 mi mostly highway commute averaging 65 on the hwy
Bought a 2016 SEL white over beige in seemingly excellent condition from a local used car lot last weekend. Had them confirm level one charging works before leaving. Was loving everything about it until a few days later when I tested out fast charging and it refused to work on multiple different chargers. The dealer was adamant about it being as is and I now see why, it’s going to require the full locking pin mechanism overhaul, which apparently is a lot of work. Took it to a highly regarded Indie European and EV specialist, paid $350 for a diagnostic and now they want $3500 for the full repair. Local VW dealer estimates more like 2500 but I’m going to need to pay for a separate diagnostic from them to get the exact quote.
Full list of found codes:
P33EA00 — Battery charging malfunction
P1A3500 — DC fast charging malfunction in charging station
P33E800 — Charge socket A connector lock mechanical malfunction
P33E500 — DC fast charging initialization error
The car only has about 56,000 miles on it. Any tips or suggestions?
I got my egolf 2019 SEL as a stopgap while waiting for Ioniq 6, but ended up becoming a fan of egolf! I didn't realize how much I like its traditional front/rear window design.
I don't have an immediate plan to upgrade, but I am curious what future lineups Egolf owners are looking forward to. Naturally I am curious about 9th gen Egolf / ID.Polo along with Ioniq 3. Not sure if any of these will be released in the US though!
What other cars would you consider for upgrade?
Would there be any reason to choose a 2019 over a 2018 SEL? I have my eye on a 2018 at a dealership that is spec'd how I want but I was hoping for a 2019. The heat pump and the larger battery are most important though.
Just brought this bad boy home this week and already I’m in love! I had a 2003 GTI as my first car in HS that 💩 out on me years ago, and I’ve been itching for another Golf since. So happy with this.
I used to do repeated hard braking at slow speeds to try to clear out that sound which tends to happen only on cool/cold mornings. But it kept happening and getting worse until I took it to a mechanic to change the pads with some Bosch ceramic pads I found on Amazon that were reviewed to be quiet. He saw deep grooves on the rotors and recommended changing those as well, so I did (new front pads and rotors).
A few months later the squeak started occasionally showing up and has been getting progressively worse. I took it to the mechanic and he showed me the machining lines that would disappear when new brakes/rotors are broken in were still there as if they're brand new.
I wish VW let the Neutral setting disable regen but it doesn't. I don't want to revert to doing the hard breaking to override regen because I worry that could be damaging my rotors. The mechanic told me these cars often tend to get small pebbles stuck between the pad and rotors and so speculated that one might have gone in there.
Has anybody found a way to safely override regen or is this just an annoyance that can't be gotten past?
I just bought a 2015 e golf and got it cheap. The seller said it would need headlight and turn signal bulbs. I took it to my local Indy shop and they quoted $1500. They also said it needed the entire assembly due to led bulbs. Does that sound even remotely reasonable?
Hello everyone,
I recently bought a 2018 e-golf with 160k kilometers on the clock and we've been quite happy with it. Now for battery preservation we did want to setup the battery to only charge to 80%, but the e-manager application seems to be unavailable for us. It doesn't show up anywhere and even with ChatGPT it doesn't seem to be hidden anywhere.
The screen has been replaced just before we bought it at a dealer, due to a break-in at the car and the entire unit has beel replaced.
Could it be that we'd need to have some type of firmware update? We also tried to connect the VW app from our phone to our car, but that also seems to be a bit of a problem.
Gladly hear some advice.
Recently my 2017 has (intermittently) started making a low groaning sound when the AC is running, and occasionally the fan stops entirely, though I can feel that it’s still cooling. The dealer wanted $350+ for diagnostics, and then at least $200 for repairs on top of that. A quick google search indicates that it’s likely a HVAC interior blower motor that needs replacing, or maybe just a belt. Has anyone here dealt with that? What did the problem turn out to be, and how much was the repair?
I've got a 2016 SEL, the stereo already sounds great, BUT I have a 12" sub and 500 watt amp just laying around... Are there any downsides to adding this for some extra bass? I could also sell the amp and sub and go the Helix sub route but the programming to get the sound right sounds like a pain? Any thoughts? Thanks!