u/SpaceOddysey2001

▲ 5 r/u_SpaceOddysey2001+1 crossposts

eGolf wheel squeak, squeak, squeak... So annoying!

I used to do repeated hard braking at slow speeds to try to clear out that sound which tends to happen only on cool/cold mornings. But it kept happening and getting worse until I took it to a mechanic to change the pads with some Bosch ceramic pads I found on Amazon that were reviewed to be quiet. He saw deep grooves on the rotors and recommended changing those as well, so I did (new front pads and rotors).

A few months later the squeak started occasionally showing up and has been getting progressively worse. I took it to the mechanic and he showed me the machining lines that would disappear when new brakes/rotors are broken in were still there as if they're brand new.

I wish VW let the Neutral setting disable regen but it doesn't. I don't want to revert to doing the hard breaking to override regen because I worry that could be damaging my rotors. The mechanic told me these cars often tend to get small pebbles stuck between the pad and rotors and so speculated that one might have gone in there.

Has anybody found a way to safely override regen or is this just an annoyance that can't be gotten past?

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u/SpaceOddysey2001 — 11 days ago
▲ 9 r/eGolf

Fixing eGolf charging door stuck closed

Just in case someone faces the same issue, I'm posting my experience in hope it helps.

I skimmed through this initially:

https://www.myvwegolf.com/threads/charging-door-wont-open.1449/

Later I watched this video which I used as a reference on how to take out the fuel door to access the actuator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFIQ5XwHtZc

I didn't realize how the charge indicator light and buttons that are NOT in the gas-powered Golf really complicate getting that door out.

After the fact, I understood perfectly well this comment which I skimmed over. Note this is a VW dealership that apparently cut corners rather than deal with this complication:

"It works fine, but it looks like they forgot to reconnect the charge indicator button, so I have to go back "

https://www.myvwegolf.com/threads/charging-door-wont-open.1449/post-14011

Before you attempt to replace this DIY, you should look at this helpful post with pictures. I've dealt with minor trim disassembly before, but the amount of trim that needs removal to fix this issue the "proper" way looks scary to me.

The Youtube video above at 6:25 shows the guy used a screwdriver to pop off some trim to gain access to the solenoid connecter, but "be gentle with it" he said. Well he didn't show how he did it and I couldn't figure out how to pry off the trim being gentle. But even if you could this doesn't account for the charge indicator+buttons.

In YouTube comments I saw someone suggested cutting the actuator cable and soldering the wires together. This was a great idea as I was able to cut the cable, strip the wires and twist the ends of the old wire with the new module. Tape over both pairs of wires and then over the combination and it should be good enough since these shouldn't get pulled or jiggled afterwards.

I was barely able to get the charge indicator off awkwardly using a hex wrench that barely grabbed onto the T25 screws after using pliers to initially turn and loosen the screws from the back. It look a really long time to get that damn thing off in order to be able to pull the charge door fully to the left and out of the body.

I made a stupid mistake of screwing in the indicator onto the charge door before putting it in then realized it cant slide in (wire way too short) so I had to undo that. When I slid the charge door right end in, I didn't have enough clearance to be able to screw in the indicator. If I had a magnetized T25 Star L-Key I might have had a chance. In the end I was able to get one screw partially so it isn't completely loose.

I wish I had seen this comment. If I was to do it again I'd try removing the wheel well liner to unplug the charging indicator and wouldn't bother with the interior trim (splicing the actuator wire was easy enough):

* e-Golf owners, you will need to first remove the wheel well liner to unplug the charging button(red) connector. it has to be unplugged as the cable is too short to remove the plastic housing with it plugged in. There are four T25 screws in the well and two additional screws towards the rear the car. Remove screws, pull the liner down and unplug the cable; you don't need to jack up the car to do this.*

https://www.vwvortex.com/posts/112942613/

In case you're wondering if you can open the actuator and just spray some WD-40 the answer is no. This is what five years of occasional charging in the rain does apparently:

Side view of charge door module with actuator reattached to see how locking pin works. I had to pry open the fuel cover and broke some plastic retainer clips plus a piece that holds against the locking pin tab. Superglue or epoxy glue can be used to fix that if you don't lose the fragments.

https://preview.redd.it/ye6nyg7f9ufh1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=020de76ae204e011e61ede12c686f98fd77136fb

Pried off the connector and saw first indication of the problem

Part number confirming what I ordered was right

https://preview.redd.it/qsmhnf7f9ufh1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ffc1abacf93ab6e86792aab248d63ad12d310359

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u/SpaceOddysey2001 — 24 days ago