These corner braces are in 2 of the 4 corners of the garage and I am looking to add sheathing to the walls and a ceiling as well can these be removed / replaced with something, or should I notch the new panels as needed?
I recently had interior painting, baseboards, casing, shoe molding, and some door jamb repairs done. I’m not fully satisfied with the finish work, but I’m trying to figure out whether these are legitimate workmanship issues or whether I’m being too picky about normal imperfections.
The total invoice was about $9,225. This is in Northeast Ohio. The scope was roughly 5 rooms and a hallway, the house is ~1000 sqft and the linear feet ~316ft. The main line items were painting, baseboard/casing installation, shoe molding, minor wall repair, and door jamb repair. I provided all paint, as well as the baseboard and casing material.
Some of the issues I’m seeing:
I understand old houses have uneven walls/floors and I’m not expecting perfection. I’m mostly trying to understand what is reasonable for this scope/price, and what should be considered normal punch-list work versus poor finish quality.
Also, minor question: when shoe molding terminates against door casing, is it normally supposed to be angled/returned/cut differently so it dies into the casing more cleanly, or is a square butt joint acceptable?
ETA:
Thank you everyone for your comments and feedback. I'm going to push to either get the final invoice reduced or have them come back out and correct the job. At this point I honestly hope they'll just work with me on reducing the bill and then I can spend some time trying to learn how to fix it myself. Of course after I started looking I spotted more and more spots where nail holes aren't filled in (seems like most of the base/shoe isn't filled in)
Any tips would be appreciated on how to remedy these issues myself!
Hello! I need advice on our store sign.
I work with a flooring store and our logo is a very dark background with pale yellow letters. The roof its on faces south, the shingles are a red-brown asphalt shingle, and is at maybe a 70-75 degree angle; we got a new vinyl-wrapped aluminum sign 4 years ago and it looked great… for maybe a month. Then it warped; the company that made the sign bolted it down in a few more places and that was that.
Since then its faded, crackled, peeled, and honestly looks like it survived a fire. We reached out to the company that made it, and they said we probably should have contacted them sooner (I agree but the higher ups told me not to worry about it) and that they could give us a discount on a new one (warranty is only for 2 years apparently). They suggested this time to flip the colors so its medium toned text on a white or off-white background, and said this would probably help delay the damage wrought by the sun. (“That is by no means a guarantee however.”) They did offer to upgrade the material used at no cost, so it would be a brand new sign all around.
Meanwhile, the boss’s go-getter son went to a local painter who has made and modified many signs around town to see what he would do. He says he’d peel the vinyl off, sandblast the aluminum, and paint it by hand. He also suggested a lighter color, but says he thinks the paint will likely last a bit better than the vinyl. He said he’s almost certain we could get 3-5 years out of it easy after its painted and treated.
Both options cost about the same in material and labor.
Obviously we need to fix our sign. It looks awful. But what route would you go? What questions should we be asking?
Edit to add:
This is the info we received from the sign company:
I'd assume that if the sign is a light background rather than a dark one, it would absorb less heat and thus could last longer. That is by no means a guarantee of course. Due to the color of your roof or other factors it did get "crispy" quicker than we would expect. We have hundreds of signs of this nature up all around our area, and we don't see this kind of degradation happen nearly as quickly as it took this one to degrade. I can swap to a lighter color background, and use the best sign material we have on hand to combat the heat element the sign must face.
He GC’s what’s your best way to run power through multiple floors. This seems to be the cleanest and safest for us.
Hi all, I have a friend who has this crack in the garage wall, and we were wondering if it’s something to be concerned about or not. On the outside, the crack goes way down.
We assume that the ones who installed the window did a poor job, but we are wondering how the wall below would be affected by this change.
The crack did not increase in size or change in 2 years, so we assume it’s not something to be concerned about, but who knows. The cracks at the front of the garage on the CAD sketch are just around the mortar, only one block is cracked in the middle, but the cracks are thin.
The level at the back of the garage drops significantly.
What do you think is or was the problem?
Thank you in advance!
We just got a really bad storm and noticed this while inspecting the outside of the house. We also lost some siding so i have to put that back on. Is this moisture or pests or both? How should i address it? No moisture can be seen on the inside. Thanks!
I wanted to extend our patio concrete pad for a hot tub.
I've already got a lot of other costly projects going on, DIY and not-DIY, so I decided I needed to DIY this pad cost wise. I've never worked with concrete before, so it's safe to say I've learned more than a few lessons throughout this whole process...
I used Mastercraft standard pre-mix concrete and a portable electric mixer. I unfortunately forgot to rent a bull float and it was too late to get one so I was left with having to use only a screte and trowels.
So be honest, did I f-this up? It really doesn't look that good. There are a lot of spots where it's rocky and didn't want to smooth out. I suspect the water in the mix was slowly draining away from these areas. Did I mix too wet? The drain edges are chippy and unlevel. The pipe penetrations are super rocky. There's a decent size high spot and low spot. Also if it seems like there's a particular area in the top right of the first photo that seems finished worse than the rest, that could definitely be attributed to my wife, as she's the one who troweled that spot. (Spears down!! She would attest to this too, lol.)
Are there some things I can do myself to improve these problems? Or should I stop while I'm (not really) ahead...
Concrete poured last winter (15-16 mo ago) and builder says it's cosmetic only. Should we hire a forensic assessment?
Removed some wood paneling before having waterproofing done from the inside into the foundation. That adventure revealed these cracks going on in the wall. How much trouble am I in here?
I have a pretty large attic that I'd be interested in converting to more living space. What I'm looking for now is if that is even an option. The center is about 12ft to the peak. A buddy of mine said there's essentially no options to convert this and rebrace the roof. Is that true? I'm located in Ohio.
I live in a townhome style home with a flat roof. Current roof is an old hot tar roof. I’ve been getting coats on replacement. Most quotes are modified bitumen CertainTeed Flintlastic.
However one contractor mentioned coating it with a silicon elastomeric . He said it would last 10-20 years which seems to be what the modbit would be . Please see below
https://www.a1asupply.com/product/321-del-val-high-solids-silicone-roof-coating/
What would be the better option ? Is a silicon covering really that good? Or should I go with the Flintlastic.
Thanks
Hired someone to do this concrete work, paid half up front and they took off leaving a mess and are nowhere to be found. I had to remove the framing wood myself and I’ve been drenching it several times a day for 5 days. My gardener said I need to cut it or it’s going to crack so I called a few places. One said it’s pointless to cut it since it’s been 5 days since being poured and whatever cracks are going to develop are already in motion. Another guy said $500 to cut it which he admitted was high. The area with the blue bin on it is 5.5’ x 10’. The other side is 4.5’x12’.
What’s the consensus?
I’m renovating my bathroom and currently shopping for final touches on Home Depot’s app. I’m looking for fixtures, switch plates, and other small items. I’m trying to find a vanity light fixture, but I’m having trouble. The second or third slide for this particular vanity light shows an image with a series of features ending in a bunch of grapes. I don’t understand what this means.
I’m trying to install an exhaust to my bathroom. The window in the picture is where my bathroom is. I would prefer not to go through my roof and would like to go through the side of the house but there are soffit vents to the left and gable vent to the right. I’m worried that the moisture will get in those vents and cause mold. And placing it right above the window would put the moisture back in the bathroom through the window. Is it safe to place the exhaust terminal above, left, or right of the window?
The guy said he’s done a ton of basement floors. It looks horrible to me. I realize that shining a light on it emphasizes the defects, but this looks really bad
Am I being dramatic? I don’t even know if I can lay floor on it because it’s so uneven…
I hired a contractor 3 months back to put carpet in the basement. However, he has not done anything yet. I had paid him a $2000 deposit upfront to buy the carpet. Last month I told him that I have run out of patience and needed a refund to which he said that he bought the carpet and home depot wouldn't accept returns since it is custom cut. So I asked him to drop off the carpet so that I can hire someone else to install. On the top of this he is extremely bad with communication and barely responds (maybe once for every 8 times I message him). Last couple months have been a back and forth where he commits to a day and doesnt show up without informing. All this is has made me very frustrated and mentally exhausted. What are my options ? Is there a way you may suggest I navigate this. Thumbtack said they cannot help me but have blocked his account. I have also complained to my state attorney General office.
Just moved back into our house less than a month ago after a 5-month, $120k insured full remodel.
• Shower is leaking again at the bench-to-wall junction (same spot as before) and another area under the bench. Water is saturating the wood framing and reaching the crawl space.
• Original install photos (including old marble slab phase) show hybrid wood/foam bench with incomplete continuous waterproof membrane. Floor pan under the bench is just a mud bed.
• GC and sub are proposing to switch to grout caulk at the 90° angles and “monitor it.” No one has shown up yet.
• We’re good with a temporary caulk fix to stop the immediate leak, but I’m concerned it won’t last and we’ll be right back here again.
• No permits were pulled for the original major rebuild (city already fined the GC twice for similar issues on other jobs).
Looking for advice on:
• Is caulk-only sufficient or does this need a full bench rebuild with continuous membrane, foam panels, glass removal, stone lift, and flood test?
• Should we insist on a repair permit + city inspection?
• Any leverage as homeowner to choose a different crew?
Photos attached — would appreciate any experienced eyes on this.
In process of replacing chimney, discovered piece of wet wood due to inadequate flashing around old chimney.
How to go about replacing this wood before continuing chimney project? Unsure if it is load bearing or not.
No attic (vaulted ceiling) so any repairs if made from inside would be in approximate area shown.
Thank you
Had ice come down and break one of 3 picture windows (far left window). Contractor replaced it today and the window frame fits in the gap, but the window pane itself is 3” difference from the other two.
Contractor is trying to say it’s a provider problem, but wouldn’t you think they would get a pane measurement when trying to match 2 other windows? Are my expectations unreasonable? For context, this is a 4k fix…