r/AskContractors

Image 1 — Windows installed properly?
Image 2 — Windows installed properly?
Image 3 — Windows installed properly?
Image 4 — Windows installed properly?
Image 5 — Windows installed properly?
Image 6 — Windows installed properly?
Image 7 — Windows installed properly?
▲ 2 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

Windows installed properly?

Do these windows look installed correctly with the siding? Under contract on the house and the windows didn't seem installed Properly.

u/Zestyclose-Raise-186 — 12 hours ago

Concrete wave & ripple after curing & painting

We had a slab of concrete poured in our yard for pickleball & basketball. We waited 30 days before painting the slab with a paint specific for indoor/outdoor pickleball courts.

It’s been about 2 months since the concrete was poured and 1 month since it was painted, and we are now just noticing waving & rippling. The waves are solid, the paint is not bubbling, it feels like the concrete has rippled. The paint has not separated at all, and there isn’t air between the concrete & paint.

When we painted the court, the waves were not there. There were a couple of low spots in the concrete we noticed while painting (using a rubber squeegee), but we definitely would have noticed these.

Does anyone know what’s going on here?

u/KBRosman — 1 day ago
▲ 29 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

Am I being too picky?

We had a hail storm come through some months ago we hired a company to do our siding and roof overall I think it looks good and from a distance it is looking great but when you get close up there are quite a few scratches and dings and they are not even done yet.

Some details the horizontal siding is vinyl and the Board and Batten siding is steel. The siding has taken way longer than they said it would we are on month number 2 of what they said would be a 2 week process. I checked the contractor we can’t really hold them to any timeline apparently which is fine so long as it is done well I am just not sure I am being too picky or if I should bring it up with the contractor.

u/bltallest — 24 hours ago
▲ 2 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

Basement Reno’s/ foundation

So I have a house from the 60s in Canada and after moving in I found bubbled paint in the basement (in spring time early may) that wasn’t there on inspection. I went searching and started cutting drywall and found mold and moisture on the warm side of the vapour barrier. With that it seemed to be more centralized under windows and spanning out. I since then replaced basement windows suspecting that was the cause. Then determined I’d re do the entire wall of drywall. Pulled the drywall to find the vapour barrier not sealed and just stapled on with no acoustic sealant or tape on any of it. I removed the insulation which was dry and no mold on it at all. The foundation has some calcium buildup or what I learned might be essflorence (don’t quote me on spelling). I want to know if this could also be from the windows or if this is a foundation issue that requires waterproofing. I got one guy who said just to clean it well and apply a sealer, but would like to verify any concerns before redoing the walls and finishing the basement again.

u/MixtureOut — 22 hours ago
▲ 14 r/AskContractors+2 crossposts

What would you do/say?

I had an existing paver patio for about 6 years. We’re putting a large hot tub on it, so we hired a company to reinforce the patio to support the additional weight. The agreement was that they would remove the existing pavers, excavate deeper, reinforce the base to 12"+, then reinstall the same pavers and finish with polymeric sand. From what I can tell, they did a great job with the reinforcement itself. My issue is with how they put the pavers back. The original patio used three different sizes of pavers and, at first glance, looked somewhat random. However, all of the joint lines were straight and evenly spaced. While they were reinstalling the pavers, I noticed the lines weren't matching up and told them it didn't look right. At the time I couldn't explain exactly what was different about the original layout, but I specifically pointed out that the lines weren't straight. They told me they knew what they were doing, that this was a layout they use all the time, and that it would look great when finished, so they continued. Well...it's finished, and to me it doesn't look right. There are mismatched joints/lines all over the patio, some ending an inch or two away from another joint, and the overall layout looks sloppy once you actually look at it. There are also 4–5 pavers that are noticeably different in color and stand out from the rest. After comparing before-and-after photos, I finally figured out how the original patio was laid: every large and small rectangular paver ran in the same direction, while every medium paver ran perpendicular to them. That's what created the continuous straight lines throughout the patio. The job was finished today and we haven't paid yet. Am I being too picky, or is this something you would expect a professional paver company to correct? What would you say/do before paying?

Mold found in predrywall phase

Mold was found during the predrywall inspection in the basement/crawlspace. The PM said they'd use mold block on it. Does this seem like enough? I just don't want it to spread or cause issues in the future.

u/randomrage0783 — 1 day ago
▲ 4 r/AskContractors+2 crossposts

Bump out addition

Recently purchased a small home. It has limited storage space in the 2 small bedrooms. It has an exterior door on the back side of the house, leading out of the primary bedroom. Was planning a master suite addition on this side of the house, but am unable due to the septic location.

For the time being, I’d like to add an 8x8 bump out addition for a walk in closet utilizing this existing exterior door. My question is, can I frame this like a deck? With a ledger on the house side and a beam with pickings on the other side? If not, why is this a bad choice? The floor joists are running the opposite direction of the bump out, so I can’t easily sister/tie in to those.

Also, should i continue one side of the bump out roof off the existing roofline? Or just add a newer slightly lower roofline? This seems easier in my head.

I am located in Northern NH for reference. What would something like this cost, DIY or contracted?

Thanks in advance!

u/AnAppealto_ — 21 hours ago
▲ 1 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

Just poured concrete footings not wide enough to anchor Pergola. options to fix?

So, I have been working with a hardscaper who was leveling my bluestone patio and adding 6 concrete footings under the patio so I could anchor a 20 x 10 metal pergola (Mirador 111DA - Costco version).

After much debate the contractor insisted pouring a 10 inch cylinder would be good enough for me to anchor off of and I don't think it is. Even if I angled the anchor inward and use an epoxy anchor, I think I run the risk of cracking. We are in Western Mass so we will get rain, wind, snow, freeze/thaw. Can this be salvaged?

the footings are 30 in deep, but I'm wondering if I can get away with digging an 8 inch deep 14x14 square around the current form, cut away the exposed cardboard and pour some high strength cement to give some added support. Would I need horizontal dowels to connect new and old concrete? Totally new to concrete work, so any advice is appreciated!

u/aqj123 — 1 day ago
▲ 0 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

Contractor dented freshly refinished floor moving island — repair locally or leave it?

Looking for some advice on a hardwood floor refinishing issue.

We had our first-floor hardwood floors refinished and overall they came out really well. The contractor used Bona Traffic HD.

Before the job, we had agreed that the kitchen island could stay in place and they would work around it. During the job, they decided they needed to move it, so they moved it, sanded underneath, and put it back. At that point there were no dents.

The next morning, after the first coat had already been applied, I noticed the island had been put back in a noticeably different position from where it had originally been. I asked them to move it back to its original spot. When they moved it, it left these shallow dents/drag marks in the freshly finished floor.

I asked the contractor about it and his response was basically that the dents were caused by moving the island, that eliminating them would require re-sanding and doing the process again, and that whenever something heavy is placed on the surface, the same thing can happen.

I’m attaching photos, including some low-angle ones where the dents are easier to see.

I’m trying to understand what the realistic options are here. Do these look like something that could be repaired without redoing a large area? Would you leave them alone, try a localized repair, or re-sand a broader section?

The floors otherwise look great, so I’m not looking to create a bigger problem. I just want to understand what an experienced flooring person would consider the best fix.

Thank you!!

Edit: I should mention that the team that created the dent were the refinishers themselves, in case that is relevant. I referred to them as contractors but all the work, including the movement of the island was done by the flooring company.

u/Careless_Window4099 — 1 day ago
▲ 2 r/AskContractors+2 crossposts

Builder installed patio door opening and made the floor above it sink! Advise please!

As you can tell from the title, we had builders create an opening downstairs in the kitchen to install patio doors in England. They created an opening and installed a steel beam according to a structural engineers calculations and this was approved by the council. We paid for the work but a week or so goes by and we noticed a few defects. Firstly the bricks were cemented in messy, but most importantly we move the boxes from the room directly above the kitchen where the opening was created and noticed that the floor has sunk by around 2 cm! We have hired a structural engineer to produce a report who said that it will likely be necessary to have remedial works to lift the floor back up to where it is supposed to be, but we have not received the report yet. The builders seem to be trying to deny that it was their fault but it very clearly is their mistake. Luckily, they are being cooperative and have shared their insurance details with us. Once the structural engineers report comes back, what should be our next step? Do we have to give the builders a chance to put it right? Naturally, we are very very hesitant about having the same builders back in who created the problem and do not want them touching the work any further. Is it possible for us to refuse remedial works from the builders themselves, in favour of other builders? Do we share the report with the builders or go directly to their insurance provider? We have paid for subsequent work such as plastering and patio door installation which will also be damaged in the process of remedying the sunken floor- will this be covered to be put right by the builders insurance provider?

Any advice about next steps is so greatly appreciated as we are stuck on what to do next!

reddit.com
u/Sunshinegreenmeadows — 24 hours ago
▲ 6 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

Needing a lawyer

We are looking for a lawyer to help us out after the company that was rebuilding our home after a major house fire didn’t get our house finished on time well period. So we have taken over the permits and our house was unlivable after the fire but we have since didn’t have a choice but to move back into the property cause we couldn’t continue t pay rent and the mortgage on the house and have money to try to get the house finished. The contractor took just over $219000 and we he refused to purchase the cabinets we wanted, we also know that when the hvac was installed they didn’t pull a permit, the plumber never got the drain lines under the basement approved before putting concrete back over them, and didn’t put a vapor barrier back were they had removed it. And the electrician never finished the wiring in the house, so we had to hire another electrician to finish it costing us $250 an hour they worked for a month and they never were able to get it done.
We ended up burning through the structure policy plus the extra and all of our personal property money, cause he was having us buy the finishes from tile to floors and all fixtures from plumbing to electrical. This builder did so much wrong to this house we basically need to start from scratch again. We had done 95% of the demo on the house before they started. He put replacement windows in not new windows. And we need to find a lawyer to help us out cause they city came at us saying we needed to get the final inspection done by the 31st of this month or we have to go to court and more than likely loss the house. I’m at a complete loss right now. I’m disabled and my partner works full time plus trying to take care of me cause I have ended up in a wheelchair.

Thanks for any help you could advise us on.
Jarred Whiteman
Kanas City, KS

reddit.com

T&M contractor and billing

Is this normal for a time-and-materials contractor?
I hired a contractor for exterior siding/trim work. My dad referred him to me.The original estimate was roughly 3 guys for 3 days, at $84/hour for labor + 20% on materials. He said 8,000 and asked for 4,000 up front. I understood it was time-and-materials and that the price could increase if the scope changed.
The scope has increased somewhat, which I understand. I had some rot and additional areas and paint that needed to be added. However, I’m now about $24,000 into the project and it’s still not finished.
The number of workers has varied throughout the project. Some days there has been one guy, some days two, and I’ve only had two days with three guys working.
I recently asked for a basic breakdown of what I’ve paid so far and a rough idea of what remains. I’m not asking for every receipt or trying to nickel-and-dime him. A simple breakdown like “$X labor, $Y materials, and we estimate another $X–$Y to finish” would be completely fine.
Instead, he just gives me a dollar amount for a check each week without breaking down the labor vs. materials.
He also just told me that there’s a 2-hour minimum per day and that anything over 4 hours gets billed as a full day. Neither of these rules was ever communicated to me or included in my understanding of the $84/hour agreement.
When I ask about the costs, he keeps saying the $84/hour + 20% materials is simply how he prices things and that I’m not supposed to track hours/materials. He also keeps asking me if I want to pay “full price,” saying I’m getting a “family and friends discount” because his normal rate is $105/hour + 25% materials.
I appreciate that he’s giving me a lower rate, but my dad simply referred me to him. We aren’t friends or family, so the repeated “family and friends” comments feel a little odd to me, especially when I’m asking basic questions about a $24,000 project.
I’m not refusing to pay, disputing the agreed rate, or expecting an exact final price. I just want to understand how we’re getting to $24,000 and what I should realistically expect to spend to finish.
If this is simply how time-and-materials jobs work, then fair enough. I genuinely don’t have much experience with this and I’m trying to understand what is normal.
I’m also getting frustrated because I feel like my questions are being dismissed, and honestly, as a woman, I can’t help but wonder if I’d be getting a different response if I were a man handling the conversations.

reddit.com
▲ 3 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

Vent fans

We wrapped up a remodel for two bathrooms and have been really happy with our contractors. But then our vent fans started to dust down insulation from the attic. We took the covers off and were very surprised to see these large gaps around the new fans. We had been planning to hire them for additional projects. Is this a deal breaker? Or am I overreacting?

How to repair this?

My kid pushed the towel bar down from one side, and it created this hole. What’s the best way to repair it so I can securely reinstall it?

u/GlassRanger12 — 1 day ago
▲ 174 r/AskContractors+1 crossposts

House flipper from hell?

Hi. I bought a house 3 years ago that was flipped. Flipped upside fucking down apparently. I have absolutely no idea how this place passed an inspection.

Well I have now discovered that the previous owners quite literally put bathroom tile on top of wooden subfloor. I noticed the grout began to crack and now the tile around the tub has completely cracked and separated. I pulled one up to get an idea of how bad it is and well. It’s fucking bad.

It’s just tile on wood. No barrier. Just adhesive, tile and grout.

The wood is significantly water damaged. I don’t think there is a leak but it’s going to have to be replaced.

My question is what the fuck do I do and how in the world do I fix this. Also how much will this cost me. Tell me so I can put my head in the oven now or later. Okay thanks.

If this gets approved I’ll try to comment a pic in the comments

reddit.com
u/Pretend-Engineer8282 — 2 days ago

What’s easier/less costly for a window here?

I’d like to bring more light into my entry area, is it easier or less costly to get a double side lite door installed or can I put a side-lite-esque window here instead for the same effect/less cost?

Suspected lead in wall - what do I say to contractors hired to replace a part of my ceiling?

I just bought a 1950's home and did some at home lead tests that came back positive. There was a leak in my attic (it is fixed), but now I have a 3x3ft area of my ceiling that is 50% wet and needs to be replaced asap. I was having a hard time finding a contractor that can work with lead and posted my frustrations on reddit and was downvoted for mentioning lead to contractors. Can you please help me out? This is my first home and I don't really have anyone to ask these questions, but I don't understand how to handle this. Everyone is telling me not to mention the lead, is that really the standard procedure? How do I make sure ya'll are safe?

reddit.com
u/Goodness_Gracious7 — 1 day ago

Questions about foundation detail

Does this detail (dimensions in mm) make sense for a single story home?

The depth makes sense, it's only a bit over the minimum recommended by the geotech, but the width and heigth of the foot feels oversized for a framed wall.

Was something else taken into account that I'm missing?

Not pictured are 6 ø12 rebar at the top, 4 ø12 at the bottom, connected by #ø6/10 either side.

u/CosminApostol — 2 days ago

Looking for opinions on vinyl siding seams

We recently had vinyl siding installed, and I’m noticing several seams that seem very obvious, especially from certain angles/light.

I attached a few photos. Is this amount of visible/separated-looking seams considered normal for vinyl siding, or does it look like something may not have been installed correctly? Or perhaps the color we chose makes the seams more obvious?

u/Royal-Guide-6923 — 3 days ago

Is this normal?

I’m not a handy guy, and this is my first rental apartment, but a lot of things seem to have been really sloppily done. Maintenance won’t fix most of these things because they are just “aesthetic” (- messy grouting, sloppy wall repairs, cracking & layered paint, “three way” light fixtures where both light switches need to be turned “on” plus a remote - ) and some others such as no ventilation in the bathroom which I had to push them to install as per hospitality laws of the state.

All that to say, is this something I should be worried about? There seems to be some sort of bubble under the “tiles” in my shower. Could this be something that could grow mold or that I could be held liable for? Or better to just document and wait out my lease?

u/phrogw_ — 2 days ago