Is it worth getting those flagship cordless drills? Say a dewalt dcd1007 over dcd 800 or 996?
I want to drill holes into steel. Maybe 8mm thick . Had a cheaper drill and it was a pain to use.
I dont have much experience with the cordless tools so I dont know what I should expect .
I’m trying to raise my bed 12 to 24 preferably the larger the better into the air, what is the cheapest way I can do that and the safest?
So I’m stupid. I didn’t read the stain label until I was 2 hours into staining. It says “DO NOT INHALE”. I thought it was similar to paint i’ve never stained before. Now i’m freaking out. Will i be okay?
I immediately moved what i was staining outside and put a fan in the area.
Hi! I was hoping to get some guidance on what exactly to do with my "home theater" setup. To preface this, I live in an apartment, so running cables in walls is not an option for me.
As seen here, the blue line is my current setup. I have an 85ft armored full fiber HDMI cable running from my PC in the office to my living room LG C6. I originally had run the cable along the red line using nail-in cable clips, but as seen by the "ears" on the door frame's corners (due to my understanding of fiber optic bend radii), the black HDMI cable looked horrendous against the white wall. I took it down and decided to run it underneath some rugs. It doesn't look the best, and I can feel the cable under my feet whenever I step on it, but it definitely looks preferable to the red line.
I do plan to not use this current blue line setup forever, and I'm looking for an alternative way to run the cable that prioritizes aesthetics. I have a couple of cable raceways that I can use to eliminate the ugliness of the black cable, but that doesn't solve my issue of the bend radius of the fiber optic cable.
Some questions:
Which direction should I go in? Thanks!
EDIT: I probably should have started off by saying I’m using this setup for 4K HDR playback and high refresh rate gaming, which is why I went with the cable I bought.
Just bought a 1955 home that needs alot work. Im planning to DIY most things except plumbing. All my interior walls have a painted 2x4 at the ends and the studs behind the drywall are "turned on the flat"(I hope this is the right phrase, the long face is what the drywall is attached to). There is also no insulation. I am doing one room at a time and want to know if it is worth it to turn the studs the right way?
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Ok so is super glue fickle. I glue the same thing with the same glue one time it holds forever. I apply it the same way to the same material another time doesn't hold for shit . Then the next time perfectly. I consider the temp , humidity, and clean surface. I also been hearing that super glue has a self life . From the day it's made it gets less potent. But there is no manufactured date on the bottle .
I just moved in to my new apartment. They switched units at the last minute, so i’ve never seen it until move in day. Needless to say, it looks crummy. My biggest tick off is that my counter tops are… painted. It’s horrible to clean and whatnot. So my question is, how can I apply contact paper to it without the paint peeling upon removal? What should I put on the countertop prior? Help :-( it’s driving me insane
Had some electrical work done yesterday and while it is all perfectly functional, I dont like how one outlet ended up looking. Its just the steel square metal box. I've searched but im not seeing an enclosure I could put over the top to make it look less utilitarian. Anyone familiar with something like this?
Edit: Thanks folks! To answer some comments/questions - this is installed in the garage so the look isn't too important to me but my wife is complaining. I think will just put a white faceplate over the top and call it a day. The outlet was exactly this way before; the electrician pulled it out to this box to run a new outlet I needed without messing up the drywall, just running some conduit through a non-traffic area along the wall. He did mention he could have put it into the wall but he'd have to have cut all the drywall and such because of where it was going and I don't currently have time to reconstruct the wall after.
So the past few weeks there would be an occasional smell in the bathroom. After checking p traps and re-sealing my toilet I have discovered that my 4 inch exhaust pipe that connects to the main line has become disconnected in the wall. I went on the roof and shone a light down the pipe and can see it's not connected and misaligned.
I plan on calling a plumber but is there anything else they can do besides cutting my wall open and re-attach otherwise I will just do that myself.
Im really curious how this could even happen.
Edit - Thanks everyone. At this point I'm just happy to have found the source of the smell. Can't believe it took me so long to consider it. Looks like I will be opening my wall. Fun.
Hi everyone,
I ordered 72 silicone wristbands across 4 different colors, but accidentally had the word "CLUB" printed at the end instead of "CELL".
The text is debossed/indented into the silicone and filled with paint. I need to strip the paint out of the word "CLUB" (or clear out all the text) without degrading or swelling the silicone material itself.
Material: 100% Silicone
Text Style: Debossed / Indented with paint fill
Quantity: 72 pieces
Hi! I’m renovating an outdoor basement entrance and planning to pour a small landing outside the door and two footings for the retaining walls alongside the stairs. This will be my first time pouring concrete.
Daily temperatures are roughly 2–10°C (36–50°F), but the weather is changing and overnight frost is possible. I’ve read the manufacturers’ instructions, but I’d appreciate hearing from people who have practical experience with similar projects.
Under what conditions would regular concrete, warm mixing water and insulated curing blankets be enough? At what point would you need a winter mix or additional heating?
Have I missed the window for pouring concrete this year, or is a small project like this still manageable for a beginner? I’d love to hear what you did and how it turned out. Thanks!
I am asking here because I have an odd request. I have an office where the entrance is a double set of doors that one locks into the door jam with a lock. I have been told this is called an active/inactive door setup. I would like to flip the direction of only the inactive door, they currently both open into the office and take up up valuable space. While flipping both would likely be the easiest and "standard" the active door would open directly into a hallway and make things more painful overall. The inactive door however would flip directly into a small wall that is just slightly longer than the door.
The main reason for wanting to switch the doors is to "regain" space within the office where the inactive door will typically open to but also allow me to open said inactive door to allow more airflow if the office gets hot.
Main issues that I am sort of confused on are as follows
To solve the above I wonder if I could install the concealed door hinges to allow it to open the other way or if there is a better method?
700sqft of wavy floors. I feel it would be easier to frame rooms and closets and add transition strips and then flatten out the spaces in between than to try to make a full open space continuous.
Any personal experience or thoughts?
Hi all,
I'm putting up a safety net on my balcony so my cat can't get out. The net is attached to the railing at the bottom and to a vertical wooden batten in the corner, resting against the wall. It's fastened with small metal hooks and zip ties (see photos).
The issue: when I pull the net tight, the batten bows outward, especially toward the top. I can't get proper tension, and I'm worried my cat will find a way to push through.
Constraints:
Any tips to make it stiffer?
EDIT: Since the setup is a bit unusual, here's my (very rough) sketch. Top view on the left, side view and batten cross-section on the right. The balcony is 8.53 m long, and the batten is 6×4 cm. One end of the balcony has metal bars, and the batten stays firmly in place there. The other end (the one in the photos) is a flat wall with nothing to brace against, so the batten is only held at the bottom by the railing, which is why it bows at the top. Sorry for the artistic level, it's a quick sketch from my notebook!
Thanks in advance !
I'm in the process of demoing an old shower/tub combo and installing a shower. I noticed some moisture behind my vapor barrier on the exterior wall of of the room. It wasn't a lot, and it didn't seem to have soaked through the insulation that I removed to troubleshoot. Is it possible it was just humid air coming from outside meeting the conditioned air of my house? My house is 100+ years old so drafty walls wouldn't be much of a surprise. (We also just ended about a month of near daily rain). The space that was damp is in front of an old window frame that the previous owners covered with a piece of plywood, then insulated over.
my gut reaction is to tear off the exterior wood siding of that section of wall and re-side it, but if I don't need to I'd rather save the expense. This remodel is already way behind the schedule I gave my partner two years ago...
Looking for people who want to build things together.
You don’t need a degree, experience, or expensive equipment. I’m looking for beginners interested in electronics, 3D printing, Arduino, robotics, programming, physics, or just turning random ideas into real projects.
I’m not looking for experts. I want people who are willing to learn and figure things out together. If none of us know how to do something, we learn it. Maybe eventually we can take a project to a maker faire or something.
If you’re interested, DM me and tell me what you’d like to build. I’m only looking for people in the US for simplicity with possible in-person meetups.
I’m replacing an old bathroom fan with a 13” circular rough opening in the ceiling. The fan that is going in requires a 10 1/4” square rough opening and has a 13” square grille/trim.
How would you approach patching the dry wall? Replace a larger section of drywall joist to joist and cut a fresh square hole or try to ‘reuse’ the circular opening and patch the gaps left.
Ceiling is rock lath - I assume I’d approach patching like I would any regular drywall?
Looking for help on sticking a towel rack on the inside of my new wet bar cabinet. I can’t get any stickers to hold. Any suggestions?
I’ve tried liquid sandpaper.
I've recently rebuilt a wooden porch with pressure-treated pine. At first, I stained the boards with white Sherwin-Williams stain, but after only a few months it's showing footprints. Should I restain or paint over the stain with paint. If paint, what kind? Enamel?
