▲ 1 r/TpLink

3 Ethernet backhaul BE11000, crappy Wi-Fi calling

The title says it all. I have the three setup and all are using CAT 6 wired backhaul. I live in an area with incredibly poor cell connection so I rely heavily on Wi-Fi calling. I have my phone set as a priority device and for roaming between Decos.

For some reason when I get to the garage, or even a few steps outside of the house from the garage, the Wi-Fi calling turns to utter garbage.

This is normal North American house construction with vinyl siding, drywall, wooden studs, insulation, etc. This is regardless of whether the metal garage doors are up or down.

I can only suspect that my phone is still communicating with one of the interior Decos instead of the much closer one in the garage. Usually when I get that disconnect I don't have time to check which Deco it was attached to because I'm in my car and rolling out or walking around doing stuff.

I'm at a loss as to what additional settings I can use so that the phone seamlessly roams to the better Deco device and can help me maintain calls. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

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u/Remy_Jardin — 14 hours ago
▲ 3 r/masonry+2 crossposts

High quotes for foundation repair?

I’m looking for some advice because I’ve gotten two very different opinions from foundation contractors, and I’m not sure who to trust. The house was built in 1977 but we’ve only been here 7 years. Midwest USA.

I have estimates from two contractors for foundation issues in my basement. It appears the main problem is from poorly placed/leaking downspouts that weren't directing water from the house enough. That part is being corrected.

https://preview.redd.it/jh5r7sgs4agh1.png?width=1152&format=png&auto=webp&s=ea2b57cc04555e665f8f753c59f1be2453b48f95

The first contractor says my chimney is pulling away from the house and that water pressure in the soil is causing one of my basement walls to tilt outward. They recommended installing piers to stabilize the chimney and carbon fiber straps on the wall to prevent any further movement.

The second contractor says the outward tilt of that wall is still within builder tolerance and likely hasn’t moved much over time. They think the movement is mostly due to street creep because my house is at the end of a cul-de-sac, noting that the basement wall behind the garage is also tilting inward.

I’m struggling to figure out which assessment is more believable. Has anyone dealt with something similar? Does one explanation sound more likely than the other?

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u/Remy_Jardin — 21 days ago

Pulling my hair out with a 3-way setup

Ugh. Stair lighting. Here is what I have identified:

Top of stairs:

  • A hot wire bundle from the circuit breaker.
  • a red traveler to the stair bottom
  • a black traveler to the stair bottom
  • Neutral
  • Ground

Bottom of stairs:

  • the red traveler from the top
  • the black traveler from the top
  • the line to the lights
  • Neutral
  • Ground

I have traced the wires. This should be what you need, right?

I can get it to work when the upper switch is closed/on. When upper is on, the black traveler is hot, and the lights work as expected. When I turn the upper off, the lower switch is completely dead, the black traveler has no power.

Shouldn't the lower switch also be powered at all times? Every circuit diagram I've seen has power coming into one switch, and power going from that one switch through a traveler to the second switch. But the upper switch traveler is only hot when upper is "on".

I'm using a Leviton DOS05-1LZ at the top, and a Leviton lever edge on the bottom. I've also used an Amazon Basic 3-way, which works on the bottom if the top switch is closed/on.

I've made sure to put the lower powered traveler in the right place, and it does work when hot.

What am I missing?

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u/Remy_Jardin — 1 month ago
▲ 54 r/Gundam

In the last week I've seen the Unicorn and visited 3 Gundam Base shops. That's a few bucket list items I didn't think I'd check off.

Not much more to add than that. The big guy is coming down in August, so I was really lucky to be on a school trip that just happened to hit it our last day in Tokyo. Now in a Kyoto with a replacement Sinanju from the GB satellite store.

Now just gotta complete some downloads before the return flight....

u/Remy_Jardin — 2 months ago

Am I cooked?

Switches were installed with no appreciable gap to the door trim.

Is there any easy way to further shift the outlets in the box, or am I doing some drywall work here?

EDIT: cutting the wall plate here is not an option. We are using specialty metal plates that have a decorative trim around the edge and would look just too janky to bandsaw/belt sand/angle grind/hacksaw off.

u/Remy_Jardin — 3 months ago
▲ 19 r/DIY

Interesting drywall anchoring problem

We have a room that is sharing a wall with the garage. When attempting to hang a coat rack in drywall, I was able to get the first fastener in no problem. On the second fastener though I ran into a literal block in the form of an electrical sub panel that's on the opposite wall in the garage. I'm going to go out on a limb and think that maybe it's not a great idea to drill into an electrical sub panel that's handling roughly 60 amps.

So, I now have a hole in the drywall that's approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and is exactly the depth of the drywall and hits the metal of the panel. It's your standard garden variety breaker panel which means a steel enclosure. I am toying with the idea of embedding a super magnet into the hole and have it hanging off the back of the breaker box, but I'm not sure how much sense this makes and how big of a magnet I would need for a coat rack that could hold 4 or 5 adult sized winter jackets at the worst case. Keeping in mind I can only go as deep as the thickness of the drywall, are there any other clever solutions that would work here? Perhaps gluing something to the back of the electrical panel versus a magnet?

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u/Remy_Jardin — 3 months ago