The title says it all. I have the three setup and all are using CAT 6 wired backhaul. I live in an area with incredibly poor cell connection so I rely heavily on Wi-Fi calling. I have my phone set as a priority device and for roaming between Decos.

For some reason when I get to the garage, or even a few steps outside of the house from the garage, the Wi-Fi calling turns to utter garbage.

This is normal North American house construction with vinyl siding, drywall, wooden studs, insulation, etc. This is regardless of whether the metal garage doors are up or down.

I can only suspect that my phone is still communicating with one of the interior Decos instead of the much closer one in the garage. Usually when I get that disconnect I don't have time to check which Deco it was attached to because I'm in my car and rolling out or walking around doing stuff.

I'm at a loss as to what additional settings I can use so that the phone seamlessly roams to the better Deco device and can help me maintain calls. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I have some deco units and a BE3600. My modem is in the unfinished basement that is basically a dungeon. Should I connect the BE3600 to the ONT as the main router and use decos as access points or should a deco be the main router and use the BE3600 in my office as an access point?

So we have a TP link extender for our wifi. We just recently (today) changed the whole wifi box I think it’s called because it was old. With the old one the extender was connected and worked all the time in the location it was in. Now I can connect it to the wifi (a new one) and it stays connected for maybe a minute or two before losing connection again and does that over and over again. I’ve tried to have the extender in to different locations. In the one I had it before it just does not work. In the other one it connect and disconnect. What should I do?

Add to the post: The wifi from the extender fails without a minute when I join a discord call..

The model is RE305 if I understood correctly and I used the Tether app on iPhone to connect it to the wifi.

Maybe worth to mention I really want the extender on the second floor of the house so I can plug an Ethernet cable into it workout dragging it to the first floor. As said before it has worked very well before changing the wifi. The WiFi box is on the first floor pretty much right under the extender. The location assist in the app says that the signal is strong on both of the location I’ve tried it in.

Hi everyone. The problem is that I bought a cheap router for my summer house, and I can't figure out why it's delivering a maximum of 90 Mbps when the advertised speed is much higher. I'm connecting via Wi-Fi; I can't use a LAN cable. The model is Archer C50 v6 00000001.

At church, we have a TPLINK SWITCH - TL-SG1005P connected to our Comcast modem. It feeds an access point in same building, and another access point in a 2nd building. We have burned out two of these switches. Yet another backup spare switch seems to work just fine. I think that the spare is a NETGEAR 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch. I substituted the NETGEAR in for a week or two when the first TL-SG1005P burned out. When we planned this whole system with our IT consultant, we planned and designed to prevent surge issues from happening. We have an APC surge/battery powering modem and switch. We have ethernet cable surge protectors (grounded ONLY on the upstream end). The outdoor ethernet cable is buried and not near underground A/C cables. We have NO outdoor ethernet devices. The 2nd building access point has its OWN power injector, so the cable to the second building is using the NON-POE port on the TL-SG1005P. The TL-SG1005P sits directly on top of a metal file cabinet, so it should NOT get too warm. BUT, it always felt a little warm. Both TL-SG1005P units burned out in their first month or two. We have NO steeple. NONE of the ports on the second TL-SG1005P light up at this point, so I am returning it to our supplier. I could hire an electrician to double check any voltage differences between the two buildings:

• Ground-to-ground voltage
• Neutral-to-ground issues

If I cannot avoid switch burnout, I may ask the board to let us install fiber between the two buildings, as our IT consultant recommended this at the start to avoid surge issues. But this will be a lot of work. Might a dirfferent brand, more expensive switch, be helpful here? Any suggestions? Thanks. Rick.

UPDATE 8/18/2026 2PM EST

-------------------------

OK. Fingers crossed but I think everything resolved for the most part. Will need to monitor for the next few days but this nightmare looks like it's over.

HEAVY ASSUMPTIONS TO FOLLOW

1. During my initial setup for the very first Deco unit, during the setup I accidentally went too fast through the setup screens. There is one screen that asks you to choose the layout of your home, and I hit 'NEXT' on the screen while it was only showing a single level floor plan. You can hit the +/- buttons to add or remove floors. So instead of choosing a 3 story home, I chose a 1 story flat layout like an apartment.

2. I only applied the newest firmware to the Deco after I had already done up all 3 points.

Working on the theory that either a. selecting a 1 story level plan in the setup triggered a hidden selection inside the Deco to use a very tiny radio signal, which then crippled it's ability to stream anything to the nodes was my first assumption. I also theorized that the latest firmware, while showing as being applied, was not actually doing anything on the primary unit.

Taking one commenters advice that I might have 'a bad unit'.. I went through a very painful process (many failed attempts) to do the following:

1. unplug the internet, change the assignment of Primary Router from the 'bad' living room Deco to the basement Deco. First attempt failed, second attempt succeeded.

2. Unplugged all 3 units, took the now primary basement unit and moved it up into the living room. Powered it on, waited for a bit, it crashed my ISP modem on the first connect, but rebooting the ISP modem finally got internet showing up on the new primary Deco.

3. Removed the other 2 units from the app. Attempted to factory reset the 2 nodes with my handy sim tool, first Deco reset quickly. The 'bad' unit refused to reset on multiple attempts. Always showed a bright green light as if it were connected.

4. Set up the first reset unit easily (with the 3 floorplan config) and low and behold. As soon as it connected to the Primary.. everything looked perfect. And by that I mean, current upload download speeds was updating quickly. Connected devices stayed connected and mostly, solid green wifi icons across the board.

5. Replugged the 'bad' unit, and just sat and stared at it, swearing at it like a motherf*ck*r... solid green light wouldn't budge. Then out of the blue, turned flashing red,... followed by quick pulsing yellow... then bang... blinking blue. Started the setup on it, 3 level floor plan. Deco added.

I now appear to have 3 fully functional Deco units... No drop outs, cameras appear to be very stable, can click into them and view the video feed within 1-2 seconds. Looks like the Gremlins are gone (fingers crossed)

I still had a quick scare when my office computers couldn't remote into my servers in the basement (connected via ethernet) ... turns out it was a clusterf*ck mix of

a. computers thinking new network connections so it switched to 'public' instead of 'private'
b. subnet mask mismatch (i was using 255.255.255.0 when i should have been using the 255.255.252.0 being used in the Deco apps config.
c. Tailscale misconfig

But now I'm at the point I can remote into any LAN machine, cams are all operating without a hitch, no dropouts, smart home connectivity seems solid,

Still going to monitor for the next little while, but I think this is finally the ultimate fix. Indeed one 'BAD' unit brought this whole house of cards down.

REALLY REALLY WISH TPLINK would either make the home floorplan layout thing a config option inside Deco (because once you go through setup, you'll never see that option again).. and if it indeed controls Radio power.. this is a glaring f*ck*ng oversight in engineering terms.

-------------------------

ORIGINAL POST

-------------------------

TL;DR - New Deco system causes havoc when trying to use TPLINK effing devices on it's mesh. Not worth the plastic it's housed in.

-------------------------

I tried.

I REALLY REALLY TRIED TO MAKE THIS WORK.

Deco XE75 AXE54000. 3 pack. Wanted to replace my existing Google Nest Wifi (GA00595-CA) network because it's 5ghz backhaul would constantly crap out to my office and my speeds would drop for file transfers from 30-40 mb/s down to between 1-5 mb/s.

6ghz dedicated backhaul should fix this right? Found a deal on the XE75. Plugged'm in and though this should be great. Office speeds on internet went from just over 200mbps up to 850mbps. WOW!

Then the fun began. My f*cking TPLink Kasa smart plugs and my TPLink Tapo camera's would start going offline,.... constantly. And my life has not recovered since.

3 f*cking apps. Deco, Kasa, Tapo. Kasa connected to Tapo. 3 interfaces, all showing me different things and different status.

• Deco client list shows all units are connected to Wifi.
• Deco smart devices shows only the Kasa plugs, some available, some offline.
• Kasa shows many plugs, but some are completely missing, removed them after giving me a message about 'local control', and some are offline, but not matching the Deco list
• Tapo shows all the devices, but again, many units offline, some of which show online in one of the other apps
• Unable to 'DISCONNECT' Kasa from Tapo to regain 'local' control of devices. Menu only tells me Kasa/Tapo link authorized.

And every time I try to interact with a plug or camera, my entire f*cking network goes haywire, with mass disconnects of devices accross my entire network, not limited to Kasa or Tapo. It affects everyone's phones, laptops and other smart devices.

I have tried to troubleshoot this son of a b*tch for almost 2 weeks now and I'm borderline insane now.

• Ensured my phone was set to use my Device MAC, not a random one.
• Created an IoT network on the Deco
• Reset EVERY smart device to clear previous WiFi saved settings for previous Google units.
• Updated the firmware on EVERY Kasa/Tapo device, latest firmware on Deco
• Set Primary Wifi SSID to 2.4/5ghz only, leaving 6ghz for wireless backhaul only, channel width at 80MHz (lowest limit i can select)
• Set IoT network to 2.4 ghz only. 5ghz disabled.
• Under ADVANCED > dropped fast roaming/beamforming/mumimo (and now my wife hates me because her work calls break when she moves around the house with her laptop), SIP ALG = Disabled
• Set EACH smartplug/camera/IoT device to 'Mesh Technology' = Disabled to prevent moving around
• Attempted to point them to try to connect to the primary point
• Force all Deco nodes to use the Primary Living room router point

NOTHING. Everytime I did one fix.. it stabilized for a short while, but then out of the blue something kills it. I go into the app and try to edit a setting.. boom all devices go offline/online, some don't come back online. I play whack-a-mole with the cameras. When they disconnect/reconnect, it's a coin toss if it's a green light or an orange light. Once it's orange, i have to physically unplug and re-plug the camera back in. And then even the act of physically rebooting one camera back to online state might knock another camera offline (orange light) without ever touching the app.

This is f*cking ludicrous.. considering this is all in the same god damned ecosystem of TPLINK, for such incompatibility to occur is beyond incompetence.

I've given it my all. CoPilot gave it it's best shot to help me, Gemini ultimately gave me this final summary.

>Root Cause 1: MLO / Smart Connect Multicast Loop

>Even though you isolated the IoT network, TP-Link’s internal bridge between the Main Network, IoT Network, and app ecosystem handles Local Area Network (LAN) discovery via mDNS (Multicast DNS) and UPnP. When a Kasa or Tapo device responds to a command, it broadcasts its status locally. On the X75, a known bug causes the Decos to re-broadcast these multicast frames in a continuous loop across mesh nodes, flooding the 2.4GHz band, causing latency, app desync, and eventually crashing the main router daemon (the "whole network lost connection" phase).

>Root Cause 2: Hardware NAT / Deco Router Mode Overhead

>When running in Router Mode, the Deco unit acts as the gateway, firewall, DHCP server, and cloud bridge simultaneously. Smart plugs and cameras constantly ping local and cloud endpoints. If the Deco's internal ARP/DHCP tables overload during a multicast burst, the main unit reboots its routing service (which causes the solid/flashing LED reset sequence).

>Should you return the Deco X75?

>YES, you should return it if:

>You switch to AP Mode and sending a plug/camera command still causes the entire Wi-Fi network to drop.

>do not have an upstream router and need the Decos to function as your primary router, but turning off UPnP/adjusting settings does not prevent the full-network crashes within 24–48 hours.

>The Deco X75 uses a Qualcomm chipset that theoretically handles heavy client loads, but TP-Link's software bridge between Kasa, Tapo, and Deco local discovery is notoriously buggy on certain firmware builds. If a mesh system requires hours of manual tuning just to keep first-party smart plugs online without crashing the network, it isn't fulfilling its primary purpose.

My return window on these (Thank you Amazon) is Sep 2 for Deco XE75 3pack and Sep 5 for Deco X10 2pack. I really don't think I'm going to wait that long. Going back to my Google mesh system while annoying, will not be as utterly soul sucking and life destroying as dealing with this nonsense. I have invested more hours than a normal human being should have on this.

If there is anyone from TPLINK reading this.. get your f*cking house in order and fix this broken ass firmware. One could be forgiven for incompatibility arising from 3rd party plugs and camera's.. BUT THIS IS YOUR OWN ECOSYSTEM!

I'm calling TPLINK support today and we'll see what they say, but if anyone wants to chime in here with a magic bullet myself, CoPilot or Gemini hasn't thought of... I'm all ears. But ultimately, I think these p.o.s. devices can all go back to the warehouse where they belong and I'll end up getting EERO or ASUS instead.

Someone has HAD to have encountered this, but I can't find anyone talking about it.  

 

I recently upgraded to a Deco Mesh wifi unit and moved to Glofiber shortly after.  First, my Deco was a XE75.  After all this happened, I downgraded to an XE55 hoping it would resolve the issue.  It has not.

I migrated all my IoT devices over to the IoT network.  At first, everything was fine.  I had to reconnect all my plugs and devices.  When I did this, every single Kasa EP10 plug told me to upgrade my firmware from 1.0.5 to 1.1.1.  Which I did, except for one.

 

The single EP10 that did not upgrade to the new firmware connects and works just fine.

ALL of the others (5 of them), now refuse to connect.  Sometimes they refuse to connect to the wifi.  Sometimes they connect, but it takes forever, and when they finally do, it tells me to turn on remote control.  As soon as I click that, the plug disconnects and no longer works.  Alexa won't connect to it at any point.

 

I have tried EVERYTHING recommended by AI.  I've messed around with this for HOURS.  Here is more info and things I've tried:

- My feit bulbs also all disconnected.  They will connect and work, but not with Alexa.

- I've turned on "Third Party Compatibility" in both the Kasa app and the Tapo app

- I've tried both apps, first Kasa.  Uninstalled it and tried Tapo.  Both do the exact same thing

- My ring cameras and Amazon plugs all work fine on the IoT network

- I've renamed my SSID - taking out special characters.  Still won't connect.

- Set Primary DNS to 8.8.8.8 and Secondary to 1.1.1.1.  Didn't work.

- I've tried reconnecting to my main Wifi network.  Same symptoms.

- Again, this has been 2 different Deco systems.  Default settings.  

- Turned off both Beamforming and Fast Roaming

- Cleared app cache and retried

- hard reset EP10 countless times.  

- I have about 38 clients connected to the IoT network.  

- may be related, but everything flies on my Deco/Glofiber (phones, movie streaming). However, NOT my laptops. They have very low upload speeds according to Google's speed checker (0.2 mbps) and higher download speeds. Microsoft's shows a much higher speed (40-50 mbps), but still slower than it should be.

 

Again, the 1.0.5 version plug operates without any issue. I even disconnected and reconnected it to network just fine.  Every plug that upgraded firmware refuses to connect.

 

Please help me.  Please, I beg you.  This is driving me freaking mad.

I applied for a data entry role on TP-Link's LinkedIn page, received a DM from a woman named "Lisa Paskalidis" asking me to send an updated resume to her email. I emailed her, then a few hours later received an OBVIOUS scam email, stating:

I am very pleased to officially extend this offer of appointment for the position of Data Entry Clerk with TP-Link Systems Inc. After carefully reviewing your profile, qualifications, and professional background, our team is confident that your skills, experience, and approach to work align perfectly with the requirements of this role.

 

This is a remote position, giving you the flexibility to work from the location of your choice. You will be part of a dynamic, collaborative team that values professionalism, initiative, and high-quality results. As a Data Entry Clerk, you will play a key role in transforming data into actionable insights by collecting, analyzing, and interpreting complex datasets. You will develop clear reports and visualizations, ensure data accuracy and integrity, and collaborate closely with cross-functional teams to support strategic decision-making. Your work will help drive efficiency, clarity, and informed outcomes across the organization.

 

Key Details:
Position: Data Entry Clerk

 

Start Date: August 31, 2026

 

Salary: $41.25/hour

 

Hours: Minimum of 20 hours per week, with flexible working hours.

 

Remote Work: Fully remote—work from any location of your choice.

 

Key Responsibilities:*Collect, clean, and maintain datasets to ensure accuracy, consistency, and reliability*Provide timely, data-driven insights and respond professionally to analytical requests from internal and external stakeholders*Maintain and update dashboards, reports, and tracking systems with precision and confidentiality*Assist in planning and prioritizing data analysis workflows, coordinating deadlines, and supporting key analytical milestones* Prepare and format data visualizations, presentations, and analytical reports for various audiences***Support analytical activities such as data exploration, trend analysis, performance reviews, and post-initiative evaluations*Monitor ongoing analyses, follow up on pending data requests, and ensure timely delivery of insights and deliverables*Collaborate with cross-functional teams to ensure data alignment, effective communication, and smooth execution of analytical initiatives***Stay current with company data tools, analytics best practices, and reporting methodologies

Onboarding Process:

One important step in our onboarding process is the proficiency assessment that will be conducted before your official start date. This assessment has replaced our traditional interview process. Rather than focusing solely on discussion-based evaluation, the proficiency assessment gives us a more practical and hands-on understanding of your approach to problem-solving, task management, and the specific tools and processes relevant to the role.

 

The results of this assessment will not affect your appointment but will help us identify the areas in which you are already strong and any areas where additional training or resources may be provided. This ensures that when you begin work with us, you will be set up for success from day one.

 

Next Steps:

Please send us a brief acceptance letter by email, confirming your acceptance of this offer.

 

We are genuinely excited about the prospect of you joining the TP-Link Systems Inc team. Your expertise, problem-solving ability, and dedication will contribute to our continued success. We believe that this role will offer you rewarding challenges, the opportunity to collaborate with a talented team, and an environment where your contributions will be highly valued and recognized.

 

On behalf of TP-Link Systems Inc, congratulations once again, and we look forward to working together and building a productive, mutually beneficial relationship.

 

 

Warm regards,

Lisa Paskalidis

Talent Acquisition Enthusiast  | Servant Leader | HR PartnerTP-Link Systems Inc

lisa_paskalidis@outlook.com

The Modem gives off between 400-550 MPS, but the tp-link at most gives 10, I have replace the wires, made sure it's all connected correctly and reset it multiple times. I'm at a loss, the tp link is almost 8 years old

Hey everyone,
I am having a frustrating issue with my old TP-Link TL-WR740N router (from around 2017) and could really use some advice.

My Setup:
I have an ISP-provided fiber modem (ONU/ONT) connected to my TP-Link router. The modem does not have its own Wi-Fi.

Both the modem and the router are plugged into the same spikeguard/surge protector for power.

The Issue:

For the first 4–5 years, this router worked flawlessly on my old connection. However, a couple of years ago, my ISP upgraded me to a fiber optic cable. Since then, I’ve been experiencing frequent disconnections across all devices (phones, laptops, etc.).

Symptoms: All devices remain connected to the Wi-Fi signal, but it suddenly shows "No Internet."
Router lights: The lights remain normal (no orange/red error lights).

Specific device issue: Older OnePlus devices drop the Wi-Fi entirely and refuse to reconnect until the router is restarted.

Temporary fix: I have to power-cycle the TP-Link router (turn the switch off and on after 5–10 seconds) to get the internet back.

What I want to know:

Is this 2017 router simply too old to handle the high data throughput/packet load of modern fiber, causing its memory/CPU to crash and freeze?

Could the spikeguard be causing slight voltage drops that freeze the router when it is under load, even though the lights stay on?

Are there any specific settings (like DHCP lease time, changing DNS, or adjusting channel width) I should tweak before throwing it away?

Any troubleshooting steps or explanations would be highly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

I have downloaded the self-signed (by TP-Link) certificate  from the Advanced page in the Web GUI administration for Archer BE550. When trying to import the certificate (cacert-2026-08-17.crt) in ChromeOS certificate manager, I am prompted for a password. What is that password? Should a password really be required? How do I proceed

I know that they updated the firmware so that the 3rd party compatibility has to be cycled every now and then but it seems like my smart strips (HS300) have to be cycled and authenticated about once a week. I have 3 of them so it’s quite annoying. I’m seriously considering moving completely away from TP-Link but have too much money wrapped up in these. I don’t see regular complaints about this though so wondering if it’s something with my specific setup.

Long story short, my Deco BE65 (EU) hardware revision 1.0 started missbehaving recently and crashing when MLO was enabled... so TP Link issued RMA and replacement under warranty.

Now I got notification about the shipping which said that replacement is Deco BE65 (EU) v1.20. However, I see absolutely no record of such revision anywhere. I know in EU they've 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0, but nothing in between.

anyone see 1.2 somewhere?

I want to share what happened because I’m very concerned and would like to know if anyone else has experienced something similar, specifically with the Tapo C110.
I was changing my baby’s diaper when I suddenly heard a woman’s voice that sounded like it was coming from a device inside my home. The house was completely quiet and everything else was turned off. There was no TV, phone playing audio, Alexa, or any other device that could have been producing a voice. I don’t have Alexa, and we do not share our Wi-Fi with anyone else. Only my partner and I have access.
I immediately checked the Tapo app, including the sessions, login activity, and connected devices. I checked everything carefully, and everything appeared normal. The only devices showing were my phone and my partner’s phone.
What concerns me even more is that my partner had already heard a woman’s voice, apparently coming from the same device, the day before. This has now happened twice.
The strangest part is that the Tapo C110 was in Privacy Mode when this happened.
Of course, my first thought was that someone had somehow gained access to the camera, so I immediately unplugged the cameras. However, everything in the app still appears normal, which makes the situation even more confusing.
I started researching this on other forums and found several reports from Tapo users describing similar experiences—unexpected voices coming through their cameras, sometimes without any suspicious login activity.
I am not claiming that my Tapo C110 was definitely hacked because I have no proof of that. However, hearing an unknown woman’s voice coming through a camera that was in Privacy Mode is extremely concerning from a privacy and security standpoint.
At this point, I am considering returning the cameras because I no longer feel comfortable having them inside my home, especially with a baby.
Has anyone else experienced this specifically with a Tapo C110, particularly while it was in Privacy Mode? I would really like to know if anyone has received an explanation from TP-Link about what could cause this behavior.

So I purchased a 2 pack of BE63's last year and haven't had any complaints. Well now we were finally able to get 5gb & 8gb fiber and the BE63's are limited to 2.5gbe. My question is, can I purchase a single BE85, make it my main router and just daisy chain my current 2 BE63's to it? Will there be any issue with the mesh wifi at all? Would I have to reconnect all of my devices on my network or would it be pretty much plug and play?

Hardware Version: V2

Firmware Version: 1.3.3 build 2607161

It's getting really annoying. My BE65 repeatedly stops its activities for about 30 seconds. No connection, no internet, only "--" at every device. Wireless as well as wited devices.
Of course I rebooted the complete network, no effort. It happens quite random, but really offten. Say once every 5 minutes.
Takes some time to reconnect after it. So during surfing, working with apps, nothing happens. Apps keep spinning, progress bar in browser stands still. And than suddenly it all works again.
 
Anyone any idea? Device getting broken? This doesn't work.
 
I'm thinking of changing my main router for another one. But if it isn't necessary, I won't.

If I make all four channels have the same SSID will my newer devices band steer to MLO and 6Ghz or should I make those channels separate

I want to upgrade my mesh setup since I can feel the Decos struggling to handle the number of devices in my home, and I was wondering if this is a good upgrade or if I should stick to other Deco mesh models?

I'm currently using the BE550 as my main router with 3 Deco M4 units as mesh nodes around the house. The current plan is to ditch all 3 Deco M4s and replace them with a single BE400 upstairs. Is that a good idea?