r/Homebuilding

Im sorry about this picture quality. I popped over to look at my neighbors whole home remodel/expansion. There’s a large LVL covering a large span. Seems reasonable. But, there seemed to be a makeshift beam bolted to the actual beam and the makeshift beam seems to be holding the weight of the roof structure. It’s also already sagging in the middle but is flush with the beam where the supports are on the ends. Am I looking that this right in that it appears the weight of the peak is largely sitting on the through bolts that are holding the “fake” beam to the LVL?

We had envisioned putting the TV on the west facing wall to the deck between two French doors. We have been trying to avoid putting it over the fireplace but now that we’re in the space I’m afraid that the space between the doors isn’t big enough and it might look strange if we put curtains up over the french doors to block the sun through the west facing doors.

Any advice on where best to place the TV?

Apologies if this isn’t the right sub.

In my previous post, I received a lot of feedback about the way I chose to demonstrate this problem.

Here are more photos to demonstrate it differently.

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebuilding/s/pRoWaZRudU

Looking for a section of the install manual/verbiage that makes it clear this woven corner look method with the shake lap siding is not allowed. I've read through multiple times and am struggling to find anywhere it says this is it isn't allowed. My LP certified, higher bid contractor decided to do something unprecedented and I don't love the look and I would've just preferred the corner going to the roof, but because the PM claims he asked me and I said it was okay, and this project has stretched on way longer than it should've, they are refusing to perform any additional work outside of the original scope (which is bs, because the original scope explicitly states mfg guidelines will be followed). I'm also skeptical that them continuing the lap LP shake from the Hardie without additional flashing is not compliant. I expected a starter strip and band board.

Howdy folks! Stopped by the land before heading into DC to celebrate the 4th yesterday.

To my surprise, 9 guys on site dry walling and insulating interior and exterior walls. I spoke with them. They started on Friday and they already nearly have the entire basement fully drywall.

Cabinetry starting next week. Painting set to begin right after that wraps, and then finally flooring beginning August 1st!

Looking to close and settle at the end of August!!

Week 13 electrical update: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebuilding/s/yIvvjpoYS9

Week 12 HVAC and plumbing update: https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebuilding/s/aiAmCjlEW6

I know concrete is going to crack... I just kind of wanna grown up to tell me everything’s gonna be OK.

New build, concrete was poured a couple weeks ago and I think this is my first crack. How bad is it?

I have a 4 way intersecting ridge roof or 4 way cross gable roof (not sure on terminology, I apologize).

There is the main gable roof that runs the width/depth of the house that contains the living room/kitchen area. Then 2 roofs off either side that contain the bedrooms, etc. At the very center point of the house all 4 points meet at the same height. My question is, how to ridge cap it correctly?

If the main gable roof cap is run one direction and then the intersecting roofs are run one direction as well, we will end up with two ending caps that have the exposed nails to seal.

I'm curious if there's a way to run all the caps toward the center and have it all meet there? Then we would have only one cap with exposed nails that need sealed, correct? Can it be done that way? Also if it can, can that last cap in the center be tarred down or does it need nailed then sealed?

** Important to note that the main roof running the width of the house is a vault ceiling that doesn't get ridge vent but the intersecting roofs are vented.

**** Also, I guess I need to clarify that I'm aware the vent can not run to the intersection.... I'm referring to the cap ****

1st picture is of the house that is being built. 2nd is just a reference for how the roofs meet.

Blue - front door sloped down 300 ft yard

Red - backdoor from driveway entering den (old carport so below grade of the living room by 3 steps) also, basement runs length of the house but not under den.

Green - septic and field bed.

I need some advice on expanding this 1970 ranch located up on a hill. My family home located in Washington county TN.

It's a 3 bedroom 1.5 bath upstairs. Basement has fully finished room with full bath currently not functional. The sides of the house are off limits due to slope and property setbacks.

My thought was to remove old driveway in back, septic and field beds to relocate further in the backyard (if soil is acceptable) it's a lot of slate so idk.

The kitchen and full bath upstairs are located on that backside of the house. I want to expand the backside to create a larger kitchen, relocate washer and dryer upstairs from basement and add 2 full bedrooms with another full bath. I realize this will call for a larger septic tank.

Anyone have any thoughts on how to get started to accomplish this or other recommendations??

Hi guys, I've just bought a 1950s property by the coast. The Old fibreglass loft insulation has failed. It's all crumbly. I want to replace it but I'm unsure what to use - I've heard Cellotex is used a lot but it can be expensive.

Is that all i need? What material and thickness should i use/aim for? If i got someone in for this job, what's a reasonable quote?

Thanks guys and girls, never done this before!

For context I’m located in Vancouver Canada and so is this house. so I’m not entirely sure if this is a natural material but I’m designing my house and really like this material but don’t even know what it is exactly.

Scoured plans- modified a Frank Betz plan- paid cash for a 1/2 acre lot- under 35k- built it for under $200/sq ft when builders wanted $300-350. Financed less than half with community bank. Things I did myself:
Built temporary electric pole
Brush/vine cleanup- more than 100 trips to landfill
Stained all solid wood doors
Rockwool insulation install/spraygun foam insulation for cracks/gaps
Landscape design plan
Planted 150 perennials, shrubs, annuals, trees
Painted water blocking on foundation blocks (crawlspace)
Daily site cleanup and weekly sweep
Cabinet knobs, mirrors, bathroom hardware, & closer installs
Painted custom interior colors
Stained stair treads/handrails and finish
Hauled materials (tiles, lumber, trim, toilets, sinks)
Installed farm sink (so heavy)
Installed crawlspace door
Drywall repair and doorknobs installed
Blessed with amazing contractors- only ran into a couple I'd not recommend.
No injuries but several mishaps that kept it lively-
Boom truck delivering drywall- overloaded it and boom dropped over 40 boards which busted up on my porch and they filled my haulaway to the brim with the debris- damaged the entry subfloor and notched the newly installed door I hand finished🥹
Chimney flue installers got stuck at 36' up bc their lift ran out of gas- freezing temps and took an hour to get help- I was 2 hours away picking up metal roofing trim.
So, fared pretty well! Would I do it again- absolutely- but take more epsom salt baths. Feels great to be inside instead of loading up the truck with more haul.

Just noticed that one of the panels in our new front door has started to separate with the recent heat/humidity. I brought it up with our contractor and he said it is normal for wooden doors to expand and contract as the seasons change.

This is a 1/2” wide separation and you can see the glue is failing. I have owned several wooden front doors, some far cheaper than this one, and never seen anything like this.

Just looking for a second opinion before I tell him how I really feel

what do I do about this? I took over as my own contractor. They put 8’ osb and then a separate foot tall piece on top. I can see gaps like this many places throughout the home.

New townhomes being built next to my neighborhood, I’m curious why they use different wood for the inside units?

Edit: thank you for the quick and informative responses! FWIW, this was my first ever Reddit post after lurking for 5+ yrs.