



New apartment has this cord coming out of the wall I’ve never seen this lol what is it for?
What do I cover these wires with that are above my breaker box? Can I make something out of wood or is there a product I can purchase? Is there any codes that I have to follow?
I had a water heater fire in my apartment. When I went to look at the breakers I noticed a lock was holding the breaker in the on position. The breaker was seemingly never able to trip. Did this actually stop the breaker from flipping/is this a fire code violation? Ohio
After doing quite a bit of research and having a very limited budget but wanting to keep my lungs & shop a little less dusty, I bought the Bauer canister dust collector with the two micron filter. All the reviews I read about it were really good and the YouTube videos I watched recommended it as great for a budget option. I got it all put together and read the instruction manual which recommended gauges for extension cords etc. I plugged it in to one of my heavy duty shop power strips that's fed by a 14 gauge feed and it blew its internal fuse. I then plugged it directly into a 14 gauge overhead reel that I have and it blew it's fuse. So then I decided to just plug it straight into the socket and see what happened and it worked fine. (20 amp circuit) I'm going to try a 12 gauge extension cord tonight. But they are super expensive . I have a 12 gauge extension cord that my portable HVAC for the shop is running on because I needed power from inside the house to be able to run it at the same time as shop tools. So I'm going to try it on that before I go buy a new one. I was just frustrated and worn out last night and didn't want fish it out from behind everything. My question is , is this normal? I know it draws a lot of amps but 14 gauge is pretty stout. The run was less than 20 ft, it shouldn't have been that bad. And it's blowing the fuse instantly on start-up.
We just bought a house and the entire electrical panel had to be updated. They also had to replace the stucco afterwards and paint. I noticed the paint doesn't match, and they painted over parts of the wiring that runs down and along the ground. It also seems like the wiring looks sloppy. Just wanted to know if this looks okay, or if we should ask for them to fix it. They said they would give us $400 towards paying someone else to fix the paint, but they are stating that the wiring is up to code.
Thanks in advance for any guidance you have!
Hi! Just to preface this, I have very limited knowledge of all things electricity related, so please be kind 🙏
My partner and I are looking to have our air conditioners controlled by smart plugs for Alexa integration. We already have 15 amp smart plugs that we would like to repurpose for this, in the interest of saving money, but we’re unsure if they’re safe to use for air conditioners.
Two of our ACs are plugged into 15 amp outlets. The ACs themselves, per the specs on the side of each, draw 7 amps. Does that mean that it would be safe to use a 15 amp smart plug with it, since it’s only supposedly drawing 7 amps? Are there any other considerations I’m not aware of that would make this unsafe?
Another option my partner has found is using an infrared blaster to just remotely turn the AC on and off without dealing with the outlets at all. I’m assuming this is safer all around and we will probably wind up going with this anyway but I would still like to know more about the smart plugs, especially since the IR blasters will require us to spend a bit more money.
Thank you in advance!
Maryland recently legalized plug-in solar. Max 1,200W, has to be cord-and-plug into a "standard outlet" with no interconnection agreement. So the microinverter is 120V and lands on a single-pole breaker, meaning it only injects onto one leg, L1 or L2 depending on which slot the breaker takes.
I've got a 200A split-phase service. Central AC is 240V, everything else is 120V spread across both legs.
My question: if the inverter is dumping 10A onto L1, and at that moment my load is mostly on L2, does that power actually get used? Or am I only offsetting whatever happens to be on the leg I'm injecting into?
My understanding is that it works fine, because:
Conclusion I'm working from: one 120V circuit on one leg offsets whole-house consumption, and there's no reason to try splitting injection across both legs.
Am I right? And is there any second-order reason to care about leg balance? If not, that would mean that a 240v plug in system may be able to cover both legs?
For brief context I am in college right now and the only reason I am doing it is because I work for the college as a security guard. I only pay $5 per credit right now and then books so it’s only like $400 per semester for me to go. I am projected to receive my finance degree in fall of 2028 and how the job market is looking I am not sure if I want to actually pursue a career.
All of my friends are either electricians, plumbers, or welders. They all love it.
I have two main concerns. One is it too late? And two I literally have no clue how to use power tools let alone know what the technical names for them. You can make fun of me all you want but I am the first one in my family to go to college and my parents have just worked customer service or were educators so I need some advice.
This is the junction box for a recessed led lighting in the ceiling
The light went out and I turned off the power and found this. (I took the cap off of the white cables.
Should the ground wire have a cap on it as well??
House was renovated so guess they just never put a cap on it?
I am actually fairly handy at most things having to do with kind of home repair. I hate calling somebody for this that and the other. They say they'll be there at X time and x + 3 hours later they call me to tell me it's going to have to be put off till tomorrow. So I would prefer to learn about the thing and do it myself.
The one area I've refused to mess with other than replacing like switches or plugs is electricity. Maybe this is because I got electric shocks twice as a kid. I'm a little afraid of it.
I follow this Reddit because I would like to know and be more confident about modest electrical tasks. I've noticed a couple of trends here.
Even about fairly simple questions, the contributors here often disagree wildly about what is the appropriate thing to do. Indeed, it's fairly usual for one person to make fun of the other person's answer as being dangerous and uninformed. That is not reassuring.
Another thing which happens quite often is people say your house is going to burn down. Call an electrician. Well, as you must know calling an electrician is not cheap. Many people really don't have that option. They're already almost underwater. That doesn't mean to me that people should undertake dangerous tasks that they can't handle, but it does mean that they should try and be able to take tasks that they can.
So, how does a guy like me who wants to learn more about electricity electricity do so? Between books and YouTube, I've been able to master to an adequate degree. A lot of challenges that pop up if you own an old house. But I have not been able to do so with electricity. The books that I've looked up are often too simple and basic on one side or as in the books that give the codes for electrical installations, too complex and to presumptive about what you already know.
I wonder if anybody can recommend not one book, but perhaps a series of books that go from the infantile (what is current? What are volts? Etc), through a kind of narrative overview, even with a little history, to explaining more complicated problems and perhaps even a basic understanding of my local code.
I suspect this can't be done with one book but with a series of books. I know this is a lot to ask and this has been a long post. I'm sorry if it's inappropriate here.
Final Update: The unconnected wire was the line. I believe the other two sets go to two different part of my bedroom as everything to the left turned on but the overhead light remains off.
Second picture was what I pulled out of the wall. If you can't tell, 2 white wires are plugged into the same spot and one black wire was floating loose in the box. The loose black wire goes to a different breaker than the one powering the outlet (I found that out with a little shock). The outlet was working, I'm replacing it because it was extremely loose and whatever was plugged in would keep falling out. The house is from 1992, but I doubt this outlet was original.
I started off by finding which white wire went with the unconnected black wire and put a wire nut on both of them. I figured that since the black wasn't connected then that whole set was unnecessary to getting the outlet to function as normal.
I wired the new outlet as normal and turned the breaker back on. The outlet stayed off and I realized that I mixed up load and line. I switched load and line (and I think that it's correct now based off the other outlets in the circuit) and it's still not turning back on. I'm confident that the connections are strong and I followed the labeling on the back of the outlet. I have replaced a few outlets so far so I'm not completely new to this. I don't know where to go from here.
Am I supposed the shove that random white wire with another white wire? I know that's how it was originally but it doesn't sound right to me. I remember a few years back we had to replace an outlet that burned out. That outlet had 6 wires all connected. We excluded the set that travelled upwards and the outlet worked just fine after that. We still have no clue what that wire went to. I thought it was the same with this outlet but I'm not sure now. What should I try next?
I would love to hire an electrician but I've tried very hard in the past and it just seems impossible to find one willing to work on manufactured houses in my area. I'm desperate to figure this out in my own.
Important Update: It's only one breaker for the circuit. I've been asking my dad to flip the breaker on and off for me and the very last time he flipped the breaker off he accidentally flipped the wrong one and that's when I shocked myself and thought that wire went to a different breaker. I went to the box to investigate what the second breaker was and found the wrong breaker flipped. I'm glad it was only a tiny shock.
Hi, I recently bought new lamps at IKEA, but every lamp i plug into the wall directly trips my breaker. At first I thought I had a faulty lamp so I returned it but then I got a new one and the same issue. Interestingly, the lamp is the only thing that triggers it. I plug other things into the same socket and it's totally fine. Additionally, if I plug it in through a surge protector there's no issue. I did the math and I should be pulling around 1100 watts if everything on the circuit is running at full power and given that it's a 15 amp circuit I read online that those were supposed to be good with up to 1800 watts so I doubt it's an issue of pulling too much power. Also when I plug in the lamps the plug gets chipped because there's a big spark so it pretty much fries the lamp permanently. Had some guys come in and take a look and they said the breaker looked good nothing was burnt everything looked new, and they checked the outlets and everything looked normal. They even tried swapping out an outlet and still the issue persisted. I would love any help or feedback that people might have because while the simple solution is to just plug in the lamp through a surge protector (which is what I plan to do) I would prefer not to have to buy a surge protector for each of the outlets in my apartment while also being able to rest easy knowing that if I plug something in it won't have a 50/50 chance of just being instantly cooked. Thanks so much!
My dad gave me this device to test a electric fence (we have horses and need to test the fence) he told me to just solder the bottom cable back on but that didn't fix, we're just getting a new one now but we are both so intrigued as to how this thing even works, the only theory we could come up with was current traveling from the top down through the resistors and lighting the light up, but wouldn't the voltage numbers on the casing have to be in the opposite order (small to high from top to bottom and not vice versa) please someone explains how this works, we both have ADHD so we kinda push eachother up with questions like this until we're to invested to let it go, we need answers 🙏🙏
I am trying to install a under cabinet range hood(there wasn't one when I bought my house) but when I open the upper cabinet above my stove there is no outlet. This is all I see.
Is there electrical wiring inside this? A possible outlet inside? Can someone please tell me what this is? Thank you!
Fair warning, I have some understanding of this stuff, but I know I am mostly ignorant.
I bought a kiln. It is most commonly sold in a 240v version, but I bought the 208v 3 phase version because that is what we have in our shop. I am not convinced they did the conversion right.
The kiln usually has four elements, two are 4kW, two are 3kW.
All the relays are ganged together so it's either all on or all off, so I will omit the relays for this discussion. They change the elements when they do the conversion, so the 208v elements should still be 4kW and 3kW.
In the 240v version all four elements are in parallel from L1 to L2. Dead simple.
When they converted it to three phase they put a 4kW and a 3kW in parallel on A-B, a 4kW and 3kW in parallel on B-C, and left C-A unloaded.
It draws 43 Amps on B and 22 Amps each on A and C. Downrate the breaker for a continuous load and we've got it on their recommended 60A breaker with appropriate wire gauge.
Is that big an imbalance acceptable? It seems dumb to me.
High school math says put a 4kW on A-B, a 4kW on B-C, and parallel the two 3kW on C-A. It'll be closer to 32 Amps on A & C and 26 Amps on B....
High school math does NOT actually describe reality and tell me if I have a valid complaint.
I’m upgrading my 20 space 100 amp breaker panel to a 40 space 200 amp panel. I don’t plan on adding any loads at this time, but my 100 amp is full and instead of upgrading to a 30 space 100 amp I figured it’d be smart to just go 200 amp and future proof it I guess. It’s a house in the Midwest built in 2006. I already had the power company come out and they said I already have a 200 amp meter installed and all the wires can handle the upgrade so the electrician and I don’t need nothing from the power company besides the disconnect & reconnect.
I hoping from some input and to help me with any questions I should ask the electrician. I know nothing about electrical. It’s a small business (he’s the owner/electrician and he’s licensed/insured)
He gave me an estimate to upgrade the 40 space 200 amp panel and adding a regular 120v outlet in the garage that’s about 10’ from the breaker panel for $1,800. It seems low…maybe that’s because nothing needs to be done by the power company and the meter is already 200 amp ready. Is there any questions I should ask him if he’s replacing whatever needs replaced for a 200 amp upgrade?
Any help is appreciated. Only questions I’ve got are these so far ⬇️
Are you pulling all the permits?
Are you replacing the line from the meter to the panel to a thicker gauge wire?
Please add any questions I should ask. Thanks in advance
I'm replacing an existing 1980s-era 150A main panel (GE) with a new panel which will become a main-lug subpanel to a new service. The current main has a Siemens subpanel that was added a few years ago as part of a renovation that is located on the other end of the room. I'm debating the benefits / drawbacks of going with ABB or Siemens for the new panel and am curious what others think "matters". Both options are 30-space with PON, plenty of bus room, etc. (so, very similar from a utility perspective).
On one hand using ABB would allow me to re-use the breakers in the current panel (where appropriate) and the panel price (including some "bonus breakers" in a package deal) is about $50 less. It has an Al bus, though :(
On the other, the Siemens panel would keep the whole home in one ecosystem even though I'd end up with a bunch of used GE breakers and have to buy multiple new ones (which are a bit pricier than the ABB). It also has a solid copper bus and although I think their front panels are a little goofy, the panel feels a little more 'solid' than the ABB...but that is pretty subjective.
What would you do in your own home and why?