r/snapmaker

Image 1 — Latest big print! 12hr 35min! I'm loving this machine!
Image 2 — Latest big print! 12hr 35min! I'm loving this machine!
Image 3 — Latest big print! 12hr 35min! I'm loving this machine!

Latest big print! 12hr 35min! I'm loving this machine!

This is a follow-up to yesterdays post about my duck! My scale is busted, so I can't verify weights, but the slicer says the totals, print and waste/tower are under 300 grams; 180 for the print and 95-ish for the rest, but I'm not sure. The file is on the Printables site and Snapmaker is definitely giving the Prusa printers a run for their money!

u/bumjug427 — 3 hours ago
▲ 9 r/snapmaker+1 crossposts

How to Setup Panda Breath on Snapmaker U1 (from stock)

BIQU Panda Breath + Snapmaker U1 Setup Guide

This guide documents the full path I took to get a new BIQU Panda Breath chamber heater bound to a new Snapmaker U1. I tried using the setup guides and piecing together various posts but got stuck. I ended up enlisting ChatGPT/Codex to getting me through it and now it works great. This is just to help anyone else that may get stuck. I'm by no means an expert. Also, there is a remix of the BIQU Panda Breath mounts that have support feet to keep it off the power cord. Found here: Panda Breath Snapmaker U1 Remix

I hope this guide is helpful.

My starting point was a mostly stock setup:

  • New Snapmaker U1
  • New BIQU Panda Breath
  • Panda Breath updated to firmware V1.0.3
  • U1 later moved to Paxx Extended Firmware (not required but often suggested or other QoL improvements)
  • Advanced Mode and Root Access enabled on the U1
  • Goal: get the Panda Breath bound to the U1 so it can communicate with Klipper/Moonraker

The confusing part was that the Panda Breath scan function did not find the U1, even though the printer was reachable on the network. The fix was to manually bind the Panda Breath to the U1 using the U1's Moonraker port.

Final Working Result

The Panda Breath successfully bound to the Snapmaker U1 using:

Printer type: Klipper
Printer name: U1
Printer IP: <your U1 IP>
Port: 7125

Example from my network:

Snapmaker U1: 10.0.0.214
Panda Breath: 10.0.0.215
Moonraker port: 7125

Your network might be 192.168.0.XXX depending on your router setup.

The Panda Breath web UI showed:

Binding successful

Important Takeaway

Do not assume binding failed just because the Panda Breath scan button does not find the U1.

In my case:

  • The U1 was reachable.
  • Moonraker was working.
  • Klippy was ready.
  • The Panda Breath was already in Klipper mode.
  • Scan still returned no printers.
  • Manual binding worked.

Step 1 - Update Panda Breath Firmware

Update the Panda Breath to firmware V1.0.3.

This version is important because BIQU added support for binding Klipper printers.

  1. Connect to the Panda Breath hotspot, or find the Panda Breath IP address from your router.
  2. Open the Panda Breath web UI:

​

http://<panda-ip>
  1. Go to Settings. 4. Check the firmware version. 5. Update to V1.0.3 if needed.

The Panda Breath web UI is called Bifrost Engine.

If you do not know the IP, you can also try:

http://PandaBreath.local

Step 2 - Connect Panda Breath to Your LAN

The Panda Breath and U1 need to be on the same local network.

In the Panda Breath web UI:

  1. Go to the Wi-Fi/IP page.
  2. Connect it to the same network as the U1.
  3. Confirm it receives a normal LAN IP address.

Example:

Panda Breath: 10.0.0.215
Snapmaker U1: 10.0.0.214

Recommended: reserve both IP addresses in your router's DHCP settings.

Step 3 - Enable Advanced Mode and Root Access on the U1

On the Snapmaker U1 touchscreen:

  1. Go to Settings.
  2. Enable Advanced Mode.
  3. Go to Maintenance / Root Access.
  4. Enable Root Access.

On newer U1 firmware, SSH access is supported through the printer UI. Paxx Extended Firmware is still commonly recommended because it makes the U1 easier to inspect and troubleshoot.

Step 4 - Enable SSH if Needed

Depending on your firmware version, SSH may already be available once Root Access is enabled.

If using Paxx Extended Firmware and SSH is not active:

  1. Open the U1 web interface:

​

http://<u1-ip>
  1. Open the configuration/files area. 3. Open the Paxx extended firmware configuration file, commonly under an extended folder. 4. Find the remote access section. 5. Set SSH to enabled.

Example:

ssh: true

Save the file and wait about 30 seconds.

Step 5 - SSH Into the U1

From PowerShell, Terminal, or another SSH client:

ssh root@<u1-ip>

Example:

ssh root@10.0.0.214

Default credentials are commonly:

Username: root
Password: snapmaker

Change the root password after setup if you keep SSH enabled. In your powershell window enter the command and follow the prompts:

passwd

Changing the root password does not break the Panda Breath bind. The Panda Breath does not use SSH. It talks to Moonraker over the network.

Step 6 - Confirm the U1 Web Interface Works

Open the U1 in a browser:

http://<u1-ip>

Example:

http://10.0.0.214

This should load Fluidd or the Snapmaker U1 web interface.

Step 7 - Confirm Moonraker Works

The Panda Breath Klipper bind uses Moonraker, not SSH.

Open this in a browser:

http://<u1-ip>:7125/server/info

Example:

http://10.0.0.214:7125/server/info

A working response should include something like:

{
  "result": {
    "klippy_connected": true,
    "klippy_state": "ready",
    "moonraker_version": "1.3.0"
  }
}

If Moonraker responds and Klippy is ready, the U1 side is probably ready.

Step 8 - Bind the Panda Breath Manually

In the Panda Breath web UI:

http://<panda-ip>
  1. Go to Settings.
  2. Set Printer Type to Klipper.
  3. Go to the Printer tab.
  4. Do not rely on Scan.
  5. Enter the printer details manually:

​

Printer name: U1
Printer IP: <your U1 IP>
Port: 7125

Example:

Printer name: U1
Printer IP: 10.0.0.214
Port: 7125
  1. Click Bind.

If successful, the Panda Breath should report:

Binding successful

What Went Wrong During Setup

The Panda Breath scan button did not discover the U1.

That was misleading because the network path was actually fine. The U1 was reachable and Moonraker was working.

The scan result returned an empty list, but manual binding worked immediately once the Panda Breath was pointed at:

10.0.0.214:7125

Useful Ports on the U1

These were the useful ports during troubleshooting:

22    SSH
80    U1 web UI / Fluidd through nginx
7125  Moonraker
5353  mDNS / zeroconf

The important Panda Breath binding port is:

7125

Does Paxx Extended Firmware Matter?

I used Paxx Extended Firmware, and many people recommend it for the U1.

I am not certain it is strictly required for Panda Breath binding if your stock firmware already exposes:

  • Advanced Mode
  • Root Access / SSH
  • Moonraker on port 7125
  • The U1 web interface

That said, Paxx made troubleshooting much easier because it exposed the U1 more clearly.

The actual Panda Breath binding uses Moonraker, not SSH.

U1 Settings That Were Already Correct

On my U1, Moonraker was already set up correctly:

  • Moonraker listened on all network interfaces.
  • Moonraker used port 7125.
  • Klippy was connected and ready.
  • LAN clients were trusted.
  • No Moonraker auth changes were needed.

So in my case, the U1 did not need extra Moonraker edits.

Things That Can Break the Bind Later

The Panda Breath bind can break if:

  • The U1 IP changes. If your router DHCP automatically assigns IP addresses, then when you turn your printer off and then on again later, it may be assigned a different IP address. That is why its important to follow your router instructions for reserving the IP for your printer and Panda Breath.
  • The Panda Breath moves to a different network.
  • Moonraker stops listening on port 7125.
  • Moonraker auth/trusted client settings are changed.
  • A firmware reset wipes network or Moonraker settings.

Recommended:

  • Reserve the U1 IP in your router.
  • Reserve the Panda Breath IP in your router.
  • Write down both IP addresses.

Auto Mode Caveat

BIQU documents Klipper printer support for the Panda Breath, including Snapmaker U1, but their documentation also notes that Klipper support may currently require manual heating control, with fuller automatic behavior expected through firmware updates.

So the best current wording is:

  • Binding can work.
  • Scan/discovery may fail.
  • Manual binding with IP and port 7125 can work.
  • Auto behavior should be tested carefully with bed heating or a real print.

For the first test, use conservative settings and watch the Panda Breath while the U1 bed heats.

Quick Troubleshooting Checklist

If binding fails:

  1. Confirm the Panda Breath is on firmware V1.0.3.
  2. Confirm Panda Breath and U1 are on the same LAN.
  3. Confirm the U1 web UI opens:

​

http://<u1-ip>
  1. Confirm Moonraker responds:

    http://<u1-ip>:7125/server/info

  2. Confirm the Panda Breath printer type is set to Klipper. 6. Skip scan and manually enter:

    Printer name: U1 Printer IP: <u1-ip> Port: 7125

  3. Bind manually.

Security Cleanup

After setup, change the U1 root password:

ssh root@&lt;u1-ip&gt;
passwd

Changing the root password does not break Panda Breath binding.

The Panda Breath talks to the U1 through Moonraker at:

&lt;u1-ip&gt;:7125

It does not use the SSH password.

References

  • BIQU Panda Breath wiki
  • Snapmaker U1 wiki
  • Paxx / Custom Snapmaker U1 Extended Firmware docs
reddit.com
u/mechprone — 4 hours ago

Main MCU board failing. Could it be related to active chamber heating?

I started printing some ASA flower pots after installing the BIQU Popcap and Panda Breath. I printed five or so beautiful flower pots. On the sixth pot, I started getting a bunch of errors that point to this issue already identified by the Snapmaker wiki.
https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker\_u1/troubleshooting/timer\_too\_close

Considering I’ve only been printing with this setup for a week or so, do you think active chamber heating caused the main control board to going out? Or is this just coincidental? Once I get a replacement board, should I be hesitant to use active chamber heating again? Is the Snapmaker just not built for that?

reddit.com
u/Eezapeeza — 6 hours ago
▲ 6 r/snapmaker+1 crossposts

How can I stop the bed heater from turning itself off?

Sorry if I missed something obvious, but has anyone figured out how to stop the bed heater from turning itself off while not printing? I want to use the bed to dry a roll of filament (I have a 2.5kg roll that doesn't fit into my dryer), and the temperature keeps reverting to 0 after 5 minutes, no matter if if set the temp via the UI screen or fluidd. I appreciate it's a safety feature, but it's a bit annoying for what I'm trying to do.

reddit.com
u/DireLlama — 7 hours ago

40hr print with a spaghetti prime tower

Roller coaster of a print, my largest and longest print so far. Been wanting to try PETG support and testing how the Snapmaker U1 fares for long prints.

Coming from a Bambu A1, already impressed with the efficiency of multi-color prints (goodbye poop!). Trying out this stormtrooper helmet model though was tough - failed twice due to skipped layers and multiple toolhead errors (swapping, filament) that needed a tear down and reassembly of the heads. The Bambu matte black was stuck a few times, while the eSun cool white had a few tangles.

Third time’s the charm and progressed well until halfway when the prime tower collapsed. Tried to tape down (fell after 15 mins due to heat), then superglued an old prime tower after measuring the difference between the model and broken prime tower (3cm). Also torched off and flattened blobs that appeared on the right side due to the uneven level.

Left it to print and came back to a mess of spaghetti - surprisingly still printing away! You can see how the tool heads just kept priming on a virtual tower. Had to babysit it a bit to catch stray filaments that pulled over to the model, and manually trim protrusions on the layers. Turned out all right in the end though, and glad it didn’t stop or cancel the entire print.

Learning for future - wider brims, petg support only as infill, slow support tower print speed, z-hop retraction. Currently testing out smaller prints <4hrs, flushing/priming into object instead (doing away with the prime tower)

++
TLDR: Very impressed with the U1. Not all is lost if your tower fails and spaghettis. Keep your old prime towers!

u/Mashkitt — 16 hours ago

Any chance of official U1 monitoring away from home in the future? Not sure if you guys have a DIY solution yet....

Would be nice to monitor, just in case issues arise

reddit.com
u/Illustrious_Aside_46 — 15 hours ago

How much would you charge someone for a 700g 27hr print time Drain egg fidget if you already sold them a normal one for $30?

Asking for a friend... Lol

u/AlwaysAsk4Id — 24 hours ago

Just unboxed my 2nd U1.

The box is in fine condition and I have video of the delivery at my house which was fine. I didn't see any reason to be worried but what do y'all think about the cracks in the top of the frame/skin?

u/AlwaysAsk4Id — 15 hours ago

Snapmaker U1 as a first time user of 3D printers?

Hey there 👋 I've been looking into getting into 3d printing for the first time after being fascinated by it for years and had the U1 as a consideration! My simple question is really just what the title says if it's a simple to use model for someone that's never used one before? The other 3d printers I was considering besides this one were: Creality K2 Pro and the Qidi Plus 4. Wondering how those 2 compare to the U1! The fact that the U1 has next to no waste is neat!

reddit.com
u/AdmiralSignas — 23 hours ago

The 2nd print on my new U1 and I'm overjoyed! About 5 hours total!

This little dude is a creation by K3DPrint over on Patreon (no, I'm not them). But he was the 1st print I did on my Bambu P2S with the AMS 2 Pro setup and it wound up being the thing that pushed me into ordering the Snapmaker! The P2S took around 13 hours total and produced as much waste (or more) as the print weighed! Needless to say, this one did not!

I'm currently doing this model on the U1 right now and I've got 9hrs left. I'll post an update with pics and info when it's finished!

u/bumjug427 — 14 hours ago

Welp first time trying different material interface layer

Went well for about 9 hours but hey we live and learn i suppose, just hoping we aren’t clogged when I get home.

u/InDrIdCoLd37 — 20 hours ago

U1 Build plate similar to Bambu Supertack?

Anyone know of a build plate that is similar to the Bambu Supertack? I like the matte smooth finish of it, and it sticks ridiculously well for me when printing PLA.

If not, I may just buy a H2 plate and get it cut.

reddit.com
u/lyothan — 23 hours ago
▲ 1 r/snapmaker+1 crossposts

Anyone seen this issue before?

Printing on a Snapmaker U1, my white on toolhead 3 keeps having these large gaps/separations/looks like it is printing mid air? I thought the spool might just have a tangle at first but have found no issues with it, and it was just opened yesterday so shouldn’t be wet. No other colors/toolheads are having this problem. Using Kingroon PLA at 220C, default speeds, snorca slicer, and printed flat on bed with no supports needed.

u/Real_Fake_D00rs — 23 hours ago
▲ 25 r/snapmaker+1 crossposts

Old psu fan vs thermalright tl-9015b

Decided to compare on the bench between snapmakers old psu fan vs the new pc fan im using the difference is quite big

(NOTE: i could not power old psu fan to max 24v becuase my lab bench supply only goes up to 20v so it will be louder at max voltage 24v)

u/leatherbutler18 — 1 day ago

Bed leveling. Part 2

I was not lucky and bed of my U1 is not so flat. I did my best to do manual leveling, but if bed is not flat it’s impossible to achieve good result. Mine was about 0.51. Not good, in my opinion. 2.5 layers…
I contacted support about it. By requirements of Snapmaker it’s Ok. First level is good, nothing to do. But support was very kind and sent to me new bed (still waiting it), but without any warranty it be better than mine.
Today, after not good print, I decided to remove this negative parameter from equation. Two days ago I received Kapton tape from Ali. Why not?
I already achieved 0.28 and want to add one additional layer (I already added something like 4-5 layers). I don’t know how it will work (I don’t have any experience), but currently it looks Ok, imho.

u/UngaHuman — 1 day ago
▲ 311 r/snapmaker

Full Spectrum is coming to Snapmaker Orca — and Radu (Ratdoux) is joining the team

Hey everyone,

The past few months have been some of the most exciting we've seen in the U1 community. What started as a few experimental posts about full‑color printing has snowballed into a great movement, and we want to take a moment to: say thank you, share some news, and tell you what's coming next.

  1. Thank you!

Full Spectrum didn't come from a roadmap meeting. It came from you.

It started with u/Rob_Bob_you_choose, who showed the world that the U1's four toolheads could be coaxed into 9‑color prints from just 4 filaments — a wild proof of concept that lit the spark.

Then u/Aceman11100 posted his approach to near‑full‑color printing on the U1 using just three base filaments and layer‑alternating color mixing.

Within hours, u/beybladetable (Radu, "Ratdoux") had forked Snapmaker Orca and shared a working prototype: Snapmaker Orca FullSpectrum, a Snapmaker Orca fork with mixed-color filament support. Hours. From idea to working tool!

Then u/WombleyWonders stepped up and made the deep‑dive video that introduced Full Spectrum to a much wider audience, explaining the theory, showing the limits, and helping new users actually understand what they were looking at.

And honestly, that's still just the visible tip. A huge group of contributors on our Discord and GitHub have been quietly making Full Spectrum better:

  • wildtang3nt (Discord) — testing and coding for improved color prediction
  • Hunter Cook (@jusdisgi on Reddit/GitHub) — process testing, advice, and improvement reporting
  • Silent (@xSil3nt on GitHub) — early UI development
  • cheeky_b52 (Discord) — print & filament testing and improvement reporting
  • neotko (Discord & GitHub) — top‑surface blending feature development
  • Xipit (Discord) — UI redesign currently in development
  • 북리지 (@bookledge) (YouTube) — print testing, improvement reporting, and incredible creations/videos
  • YGK3D (YouTube) — influential video that helped bring Full Spectrum to a wider audience
  • Steve Lavedas (HueForge) — early development advice from someone who literally pioneered this space

…plus everyone in the Discord threads who's been printing test palettes, posting failures, posting wins, and discussing about better UI. Thank you!

  1. Radu is joining Snapmaker

We're thrilled to share that Radu (Ratdoux) — the developer behind Full Spectrum — is joining the Snapmaker team to help lead our next‑generation color‑printing work.

We reached out because the right thing to do, when a community member builds something this meaningful, we believe the right path is to recognize the work, bring the creator into the process, and support it with engineering, testing, and product resources.

Radu will keep doing what he's been doing: pushing what's possible with the U1, working openly, and listening to the community. Full Spectrum will continue to be developed openly under AGPL‑3.0.

Welcome aboard, Radu. 🧡

  1. Full Spectrum is coming to official Snapmaker Orca soon

We've been quietly preparing this for a while: the core features of Full Spectrum are being integrated into the official Snapmaker Orca, and we plan to share a beta version with our community first, in the coming weeks.

When the beta drops, you'll be the first to know. We'd love your feedback: bugs, feature requests, weird filament combinations, the works. The whole point is to build this with you, the same way it started.

A small note before we go:

To everyone above, to everyone we missed (sorry — please call us out so we can fix that), and to everyone who's about to jump into Full Spectrum for the first time: thank you for making the U1 community what it is.

The Snapmaker Team

Snapmaker Discord

u/beybladetable (Radu, \"Ratdoux\")

u/Aceman11100

u/Aceman11100

u/Rob_Bob_you_choose

reddit.com
u/Jadesfriends — 2 days ago

Makerworld to Snapmaker u1 any TIPS/Tricks?

Hello All,

I have my U1 on the way and its my first printer. I see so many fun things on Makerworld that I would like to print. I know Makerworld is for Bambo printers, is there anything I need to know in order to get those files working correctly on the U1?

reddit.com
u/TitanPenguin — 2 days ago