A minimalist cat lamp designed for 3D printing, combining a cute sculptural form with a warm ambient glow. The light shines through the printed body, creating a cozy effect while keeping the design clean and elegant.
I’m really happy with how this one turned out. What do you think of the design?
https://thangs.com/designer/Volucore/3d-model/Cat%20Lamp%20%E2%80%93%203D%20Printable%20STL-1589157
Hey all,
I’m trying to decide between the Flashforge Creator 5 and the Creator 5 Pro and could use some honest input.
Money’s a bit tight for me right now, so going with the Pro means stretching my budget. It adds a fully enclosed frame, active chamber heating up to 65°C, and HEPA + carbon filtration for about 150€ more than the base model. I’ll mainly be printing PLA/PETG at first, with maybe some ABS/ASA down the line.
For anyone who’s used either one (or both): is the enclosure/heated chamber something you’d call essential, or more of a “nice to have” that the open-frame Creator 5 can live without for casual/hobby use? Trying to figure out if I should just save up a bit longer for the Pro, or if the regular one will be enough for me.
Also — does anyone know the actual shipping carton dimensions for either printer (not the printer’s own size, the actual box it ships in)? I’m ordering from the EU and shipping to Morocco, so I need this to estimate freight/customs costs before I commit. Flashforge’s product pages only list the printer dimensions, not the packaging.
Appreciate any input, thanks!
Hey guys,
I'm honestly at my wits' end with this spool. As you can see in the picture attached, I'm getting this horrible, ripped-up first layer and massive under-extrusion.
The frustrating part is that this filament has been popping and bubbling flat out since the very first day I opened it. I naturally assumed it was wet, so I baked it in the oven at 55°C for about 3-4 hours (temp was monitored), and then left it in a sealed container with a bunch of desiccants for a month. I just took it out to give it another shot, and it’s still popping heavily.
My printer runs 3 other filament brands perfectly fine, so I know my bed is leveled and my general setup is pretty dialed in.
What do you guys think is actually happening here?
Could this specific filament have caused a partial nozzle clog?
Is my stock extruder just struggling to grip it (maybe bad tolerances/diameter)?
Or did I just get a completely bad batch that belongs in the trash?
Would love to know if anyone has fought a spool like this before I just throw it away. Any advice is appreciated!
Hey everyone,
Getting the tiny details right is crucial when printing complex, multi-part designs like an Abyss Ward Demon Skull or intricate gothic pieces. While compiling a recent 40-page technical guide on hardware and troubleshooting, I spent weeks re-optimizing my slicer profiles to eliminate ringing, improve overhangs, and perfectly capture micro-details on FDM machines.
I use Creality Print 7.1, but because it shares DNA with OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, and PrusaSlicer, these parameters will easily translate to almost any modern slicer you are using.
If you are struggling with small features or want resin-like quality from your FDM printer, here is the exact breakdown of the settings I use.
To get ultra-fine details, you have to go low with your layer heights, but you need a solid foundation to prevent warping.
Small models get destroyed by vibrations and sudden nozzle movements. Controlling your kinematics is more important than raw speed here.
When you print at 0.08mm, your top layers are paper-thin. If you don't adjust your shell count, you will get pillowed, ugly top surfaces.
Small models often have tiny, difficult overhangs that you don't want to ruin with support interfaces.
Hey everyone,
As someone who designs and prints a lot of highly detailed 3D models—ranging from gothic skulls and kitsune masks to custom hangers—I’ve spent a lot of time chasing resin-like quality on FDM printers. Printing small models or miniatures requires a completely different mindset than printing large, structural parts.
I wanted to share the slicer settings and tuning order that have helped me get the best surface finish and detail retention on smaller prints. Here is my checklist:
1. Dial Back the Speed (Seriously)
While we all love fast printing, speed is the enemy of tiny details. Even if your printer can handle 500mm/s travel, you need to slow down the actual extrusion for small parts.
First Layer: Keep it slow at around 30 mm/s to ensure perfect adhesion.
Outer Walls: I usually drop my outer wall speed significantly for small miniatures (around 30-40 mm/s) to ensure sharp details and avoid ghosting.
Top Surface: A slower top surface speed guarantees a much smoother finish.
2. Tame Your Acceleration & Jerk
High acceleration will cause ringing and vibration, which ruins the look of tiny details like facial features or textures on a model.
Keep your outer wall acceleration conservative (I recommend well under the standard 2000 mm/s² for miniatures).
Lower your Jerk settings (around 4 mm/s or lower). Slower direction changes smooth out sudden corners and reduce visible artifacts.
3. Optimize Walls and Top Surfaces
For small parts, you want a solid, beautiful exterior.
Top Shell Layers: Increase this! I use up to 10 top layers for detailed prints to completely prevent pillowing and ensure a flawless top finish.
Surface Pattern: Always use "Monotonic" for top and bottom surfaces. It makes a massive difference in how clean flat areas look.
Wall Loops: Use at least 2 to 3 walls to ensure the intricate details have enough material to form correctly.
4. Overhangs & Cooling
When printing small models, the nozzle spends a lot of time in a very concentrated area, which can cause the plastic to melt and deform.
Overhang Slowdown: Enable this! Aggressive slowdown on steep overhangs (dropping down to 15-20 mm/s) improves edge quality and reduces drooping.
Minimum Layer Time: Make sure this is set high enough (usually 10-15 seconds) to give the small layers time to cool before the nozzle comes back around.
5. Infill Settings
For most small models, you don't need excessive infill. 15% Gyroid is my safe default. It gives a practical balance of strength and multi-directional support without over-extruding inside a tiny space.
Tuning Order Reminder: Always tune in this order: First Layer -> Walls & Top Surface -> Overhangs -> Infill -> Acceleration. Change one category at a time!
What are your go-to settings for getting maximum detail out of your FDM machines? I’m always looking to refine my profiles further!
Just finished this tortoise planter design and honestly I’m really happy with how it turned out 🐢🌿
The mix of matte black with vibrant greenery gives it such a clean modern vibe. Thinking of making more animal-inspired planters like this.
Would love to hear what people think — especially plant lovers and 3D printing fans.