r/OrcaSlicer

As you can see I have an internal bridge being sliced as an external wall from some reason. Is it the sharp angle of it?

A minimalist cat lamp designed for 3D printing, combining a cute sculptural form with a warm ambient glow. The light shines through the printed body, creating a cozy effect while keeping the design clean and elegant.
I’m really happy with how this one turned out. What do you think of the design?

https://thangs.com/designer/Volucore/3d-model/Cat%20Lamp%20%E2%80%93%203D%20Printable%20STL-1589157

Hello everyone, I am trying to calibrate my pla filament. I am following Factorian Designs' calibration tutorial. And I am at the max flow rate calibration step. I use Orca Slicers default calibration tools.

I know I have high speed filament so I wanted to start the test at lowest: 15 mm/s flow and highest 35mm/s flow. After setting the calibration and slicing I check my print speed and it seem too low to me. The reason is even with default low flow rates (12 mm/s I guess) I was able to print higher than 150 mm/s speed but now with testing 35 mm/s flow it only prints with 182 mm/s speed.

Considering that bambu studios default printing speed is 200 mm/s which I use generally, isn't 182 mm/s test speed too low for this test to replicate real printing situations. Am I missing something?

Hi all,

I’m hoping to get some help.

I’ve printed an UNO card box that I found online.

I would like to put my child’s name on it, but whenever I preview it in the slicer, the letters do not show.

EDIT - I would like to try to make the letters flush on the first layer of the print.

I’ve searched online and have tried many different things.

I’m still learning, but I’m hoping some of you grizzled vets out there could give me a hand.

All software is updated, and I’m using a Snapmaker U1 with no modifications.

Any tips or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Hey gang.

Just printed this test cube to test the Scarf seams.

Very disappointing.

Made a default cube :) 30x30x30
5% infill grid
2 walls
0.35mm line width,
0.2mm layer height.
PLA MATTE
K1Max
PA 0.046 (PA lines test)

Added 4 modifiers for scarf length:
20mm
10mm
5mm
3mm
No scarf

The results are as shown in the image. The seam scarf made the seam look even worse.
What are your thoughts on the subject?

I have seen information about Bed leveling and I have STLs for spacers that I can use on a Creality K1Max to help level it as long as I use a higher temperature filament to make them. I just want to make sure that I am reading this information correctly before I get myself in big trouble.

My back left corner is significantly higher than it should be, over 1.7mm.

My front right corner is lower than it should be, under .33mm

If its like construction projects the other corners will have to be tackled as I dial in the two extremes.

I also assume that if the distance is too large that I wont be able to get by with just spacers and that I will have to calibrate the bed. K1s look like they have a release mechanism that I can use to add slack to the system and then manually raise and lower the bed to get it within a "spacerable" range.

Does that sound right or is this information telling me something different?

I am trying to print several of these shields but they are all printing with a gap in the exact same location (the seam between the "e" and "l" in "shield". I am using an Egloo Neptune 4 Pro and printing with Elegoo wood PLA and using Orca Slicer. All the settings are "standard" but I have tried changing the flow from .95 - 1.05. I have also changed the seam location to the back and changed wall count to +1, but nothing I have tried yet changes it in the slightest. Sort of at a loss.

Any help, guidance, or suggestions is greatly appreciated!

Heya, I had some problems with bridging on a two-wall model. I had the slicer set to four wall loops, even though the model itself only required two.

Normally, this isn’t an issue, but in this case the sliced model showed four walls on the external bridges. This resulted in two of the walls being printed in mid-air, which caused adhesion issues and interfered with the actual bridge.

both slicers have the same settings (I wiggled some at orca to get maybe the same results)
but still orca does the top differently, I really like the neat top finish of creality, but orca just straight up takes the easy route.

Has someone got experience with this? I really wanna switch to orca but this bugs the hell out of me.

Hey guys,

I am having serious trouble printing overhangs with PA12-CF, but also PET-CF,... And I think I am just doing something wrong.

Basically, when printing inner/outer or inner/outer/inner, I always encounter this horrible sagging.

Additional info:

I am printing with enclosure, about 50°C

Increasing cooling, even to 100%, didn't help at all

I am printing overhangs slowly.

It happens regardless of temp. Mfr recommends 250-270°C, I tried all temps in this range.

I print with a silicon carbide nozzle, NextG Fiber hotend, Orbiter2.5 extruder.

Only the outermost perimeter is affected, always. The internal bridge and other perimeters (despite being overhangs) print perfectly fine and flat. It's always just the outermost perimeter. When printing, basically it starts to sag immediately after leaving the nozzle.

Are there any settings in Orca slicer I should toggle? Am I missing something? What am I doing wrong? 😕