r/BambuLab

I’m halfway through a 2-color, 18 hour print on my A1 with an AMS Lite, and now I keep getting a spool error. I have printed this color for the majority of the print, so it’s not trying to feed it for the first time. I combined a couple videos into one due to Reddit limits:

Clip 1: The sound it makes
Clip 2: Showing that it can pull filament and then makes that noice.
Clip 3: Look at the orange motor within the clear-smoke case before the noise starts, it moves. Sorry for me telling my kid to stop, of course he had to make noises during a video.
Clip 4: The error message (1200-8006 110806) on my A1.

Edit: I forgot to include that I took the spool off and made sure it is not twisted/ tangled, took the claw off and lubricated it, and made sure there was no filament in the tube.

I have the opportunity to purchase a used X1E from my work soon (about 1000 hours). I run a small print farm for parts that we use for our products we manufacture, and we're currently in the process of switching everything over to H2S printers. There's no price for it yet, but my boss said he'll give me a good deal. I already personally own an H2D and X2D for my side business and love them both.

At what price do you think the X1E would be a good idea over another X2D? The X1E would come with multiple brand new spare Biqu build plates and tons of spare OEM parts. I'm also already very familiar with repairs on X1C/X1E/P1S printers from years of running them at work. X1E also has 320c nozzle temp, over the X2D 300c nozzle temp.

Edit:

This post is 50% out of curiosity of what others would be willing to pay at this point for an X1E, but also will somewhat sway the decision I end up making.

Looking for help.

I've recently got a X2D and it's quite a downgrade in comparison to my P2S. I'm printing using the default 0.24 profile and Bambu labs' own PLA Matte profile. And it just gives me terrible top layers. I've tried:

• Running the printer calibration.
• Drying the filament in the AMS.
• Using a fresh unused 0.4mm nozzle.
• re-tightened the screws on the heating assembly.

In that first picture of the 4 circles I have:

1. Top right is using the Generic PLA filament. It actuually looks the best out of all of them, but still not as good as I expect it to be, still worse than my P2S with the same settings.
2. Bottom Right is using Bambu PLA MAtte filament profile.
3. Top Left is using bambu PLA Matte filament profile and a +0.02 Nozzle offset from the first layer calibration settings screen.
4. Bottom left is the using bambu pla matte filament profile and a +0.04 nozzle offset.

The big grey circle was printed using the PLA Basic Filament profile, while better still issues. The actual process changes are only changing the walls to be 4 and the infil to be gyroid at 5%. No other changes.

I don't know what to do anymore. Increasing the nozzle offset was what Bambu lab livechat recommended me but that didn't change top layer and only made the first layer worse.

Hi all,

I’ve been creating a range of little Australian animals with a knitted appearance, mainly aimed at Japanese tourists who love our native wildlife. For some reason, the knitted look has also proven really popular on MakerWorld rather than a fur texture.

My earlier models used a fairly subtle knit PBR texture in Blender that looked more like a bubble weave, but by the time I imported it into Bambu Studio (and reduced from 90 MB to 5 MB) and printed it, most of the detail was lost and copped a lot of negative comments saying it doesn’t looked knitted enough.

I’ve since found and modified a number of variants of a deep V-weave PBR texture that I’ve applied each to a sculpting brushes in Blender. The results are exactly what I’m after visually, but now I’m having a nightmare getting consistently clean prints.

The main issue is that the deep weave creates lots of tiny recesses and overhangs. Some areas are a little too deep where I overlapped and although I’ve tried manually filling and smoothing some of these using Blender’s Blob and Smooth brushes, but I’m still struggling.

As you can see in the photos:

• Left print: Printed upright. The chin is a mess, but the rear looks fantastic.
• Right print: Reoriented rearward at 45 degrees to improve the chin, which now looks perfect, but the rear is a mess with a chewy surface and the odd loose strand

I’m currently using a 0.28 mm top Z support distance, which results in some looping but also removing supports is still incredibly tedious because they get caught in the deep V-weave texture.

Using PETG as a support interface isn’t really an option because I’m already printing in four colours with my AMS (I really need that H2C, lol).

I haven’t experimented much with overhang settings, support tuning or other techniques because I’ve never really needed to until now.

I’d really appreciate some advice on:

• Improving these small overhangs without sacrificing the deep knitted texture.
• Bambu Studio settings that might help with print quality and easier support removal.
• Whether there’s a better approach to handling this kind of detailed surface texture.

I’m at my wits’ end trying to get a consistently clean print without spending ages cleaning up supports.

Any advice from those who’ve tackled similar issues would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I really don’t know where to go from here. Pics 2 and 3 are the aftermath of the printer randomly shutting down during a print, followed by a dead AMS when it started back up. Contacted Bambu support, they sent me a link to purchase a new mainboard for $60, saying my printer was out of warranty. Alas, the new board caught fire as soon as I turned the printer on (see pic 1). I was extremely careful to ensure everything got plugged into the correct connectors. I have never disassembled my AMS prior to this issue. I checked all resistances across the pins according to Bambu’s debugging guides, voltage is correct on the power pins. I can’t afford to buy a new AMS for this, and I’m not sure what to check next.

Any insight would be so so nice.

I have been releasing multipart models for quite some time now. However, printing these models comes with a common frustration: a perfectly smooth main body gets paired with small inserts that look like stepped topographical maps. Finer layer heights help a bit, but the rings are still there.

As it turns out, the fix is surprisingly simple: tilt the inserts and print them at a 45° angle.

I first stumbled onto this technique when waylaidwanderer published a print profile for my wobbly Snorlax model that oriented its belly this way. Since then I've been refining it, and now I print almost all my small inserts like this. By angling the parts, the layer steps are distributed across the curve rather than stacking bluntly on top. I used this exact method for the red eyes and teeth on my new wobbly Gengar model.

If you want to see how the orientation works in the slicer and print one for yourself, I uploaded it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3391336-wobbly-gengar-halloween-fidget-toy-no-ams

I'm trying to print a split model on an A2L, but the file size is 2913g, which is raising concerns about the weight. Has anyone successfully printed something of that weight?

When I upgraded to an H2S, the plates were way bigger and heavier than I realized and really difficult to clean without getting fingers all over the print surface trying to hold it still or trying to hold one edge against my chest (almost like a violin) while drying, so I finally decided to design this stand.

FYI when you touch the surface you have a good chance of getting oils from your skin on the plate that might not be noticeable until you try printing something flat and you get spots on your plate that don't stick.

Now I can wash and dry it without ever touching the build surface with my fingers. Also, I realized as a secondary benefit, I can use this stand if I want to take a plate out early so I can let it cool while printing with another plate.

Here is the link if you think it will help you as well:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3369907-multi-purpose-build-plate-holder

Comments and suggestions are welcome - about the design.

EDIT - Apparently some are more interested in the horror of the fact that someone actually washes their build plate and would rather wage personal attacks on those that do. If you don't wash your plate then obviously this model isn't for you so be a grown up and move on. If people don't think the stand is what then that's their choice - I respect that. I made this for me to make cleaning the plates a little easier and decided to share it.

Hey guys I was between the P2S and this one and decided to go with this one , should arrive Tuesdays/Wednesday, is there anything in particular I can do to get a head start?
What were you guys most common mistakes at the beginning ? Anything you guys might think is helpful i would really appreciate!!

I’m buying it mainly to print my own EUC and Onewheel parts, and go from there , I backed off buying one a few months back, because didn’t want another hobby that needs time invested , but after some back and forth (in my head) I’ve decided to got for it 🤘🤘

Final stage of testing my new Crowdfunding feature om MakerWorld!

Little Grey Project

The design is finished, tested and now in pre-launch on MakerWorld. The goal is to expand it with functional implements, trailers and more tractors — while connecting it with my existing CyberBrick Truck Series.

Would love to hear what you think! 🚜🔧

Just finished printing and assembly my new ams stand turned out great

https://makerworld.com/models/1602300?appSharePlatform=copy

One thing to note the design is meant for 2 of the new ams 2 pros but the design allows the top to support the old previous ams but not the bottom since the new one it a bit taller and wont close.