r/BambuLab

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3018898-nasa-fabric-pokeball-no-ams-needed#profileId-3391581

Who knew carrying a box one kilometre could hurt so much…

My first Bambu lab, an HD2, I prepared to make a print and I have these results.

Petg basic esun, default profile petg generic in bambu studio. What could be happening?

Sorry for my English, it's not my native language.

After some feedback (and because I can't leave well enough alone), I updated my model with a print profile which has an center hub that accepts a 6702ZZ ball bearing.

There's still the original print profile, but with the bearing.. it's much smoother sailing! 🏴‍☠️

https://makerworld.com/models/2996894?appSharePlatform=copy

I received a lot of requests for this model since it was taken down.

I uploaded a censored picture, even though when I originally posted it in this subreddit, it wasn’t censored and remained up.

I’m glad to announce that it’s back up. Now on printables.

Thanks to those that stood with Asscaliper!

https://www.printables.com/model/1774169-asscaliper-one-stand-to-rule-them-all

(Alex in charge)

This tutorial series has been the gold standard for years, he’s updated it 2 times already and he’s just done it for a 3rd time! Learn Fusion 360 in 30 days (I did most of the videos in like 4 days)

each video is strait to the point, no fluff and easy to follow along with! Perfect!

i would challenge there’s no better CAD tutorial series in the world!

https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrZ2zKOtC_-C4rWfapgngoe9o2-ng8ZBr

Shocked that this worked so well I had to share, needed brown for a part but didn’t want to buy a full spool for only the like 100 grams I would need. Gave the new colour mixing feature in bambu studio a shot by combining red, blue, yellow and had my P1S make the filament then fed it back into the system to combine all of them through the nozzle. I’m shocked it worked this well and this could be an absolute game changer for some!

I print primarily in PLA, recently did a few PETG prints on my H2C and the PETG sticks a little too well without the use of glue. I had some leftover debris on the plate that wasn't coming off with the Scraper, thought I'd do one of the "first layer plate cleaners" without critically thinking. Any advise on how to remove this and salvage the plate? Scraper is doing okay but still leaves some white residue.

Hey everyone, some of you may have seen my other helmet builds posted here before. Bambu reached out and asked me to put their A2L printer to the test on a build, so they sent one over for me to try out.

I've been printing props and cosplay armor for a while now, and one of the biggest headaches with large format builds is finding a printer that can handle both the size and the fine detail without wobble or ghosting showing up on tall, narrow geometry. For this test I printed a Space Cowboy style helmet from Galactic Armory's files. (Calling it Space Cowboy since I'd rather not poke the Mouse with the actual name, considering this a sponsored post.)

The build volume alone made this one easy. Full size helmet shell, no splitting parts, which saves a ton of post processing and alignment headaches down the line. The part that actually surprised me was how the A2L handled the tall, narrow sections of the helmet. I printed the brim of the helmet vertically with three small contact points on the baseplate. Bed slingers can get shaky on that kind of geometry and I was genuinely expecting to see some ringing or wobble show up in those areas. Instead the prints came out stable and clean, with crisp surface detail that made the weathering and finishing work down the line that much easier.

I had some hiccups on the way though. We had a few power outages during the build, which paused the prints mid layer. Even coming back from that, the A2L held up well and the prints recovered better than I thought they would. I did have to go back and do some extra cleanup work around the layers where the outage happened, but nothing too bad. One bummer is that I lost my timelapse files in the process, so that footage won't be in the timelapse video below, but the print itself made it through just fine.

For anyone building large scale props or cosplay pieces, the A2L strikes a solid balance. It handles scale, detail, and even real world hiccups without forcing you to choose between them. Hands down, this is the best entry level machine for cosplay builds right now.

Big thanks to u/bambulab for giving me the chance to put the A2L through its paces. Was a really fun build.

Timelapse video here: https://youtu.be/rwnhiDNMoH0

So i shattered my top glass cover today just thought id come here and ask if the printer is beyond saving?

I created this Infill watch stand with interchangable infill patterns

Free model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3015976-infill-watch-stand#profileId-3387879

A stool that, as it degrades, turns into wildflowers.

The stool is 3D printed in PHA, a bacteria-produced material that is 100% biodegradable. Its shape comes from 3D-scanned rocks, while the surface is inspired by fungi and microbial structures.

It sits between the natural and the digital: organic in form, material, and afterlife, but made through a fully digital process.

Inside are seeds and nutrients, allowing the object to slowly break down until what remains is not waste, but wildflowers.

https://www.instagram.com/nicho.ms/
printed on an A1

I knew it's big but next to the two x1c it's damn huge

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased the X2D, on top of the A1 I've already owned for about 2 Years now. However, I'm unfortunately less than impressed by the quality of the prints so far, in particular the ones using a 0.2 Nozzle. It appears as if there are Extrusion and Retraction Issues with the Main Nozzle. The Layer Lines are significantly more visible on the X2D then they are on the A1 - and I'm not really sure why.

1. I'm using the 0.2 Nozzle
2. Yes, I have dried the Filament. The Filament used on the A1 is literally the same Ive used on the X2D and Vice Versa.
3. I ran a full Calibration for Temperature, Flow Ratio and Pressure Advance
4. Whether I'm running my own custom HQ Settings or the Stock Settings doesn't seem to make much of a difference.
5. Calibration Cube came out fine, it seems that this issue applies to more complex geometry, which also makes it unlikely to be a Hardware Related Z-Wobble Issue.
6. The Testprints have been primed so make the imperfections more visible.
7. Both Prints are using a Layer Height of 0.06mm.

Inspired by his latest video, anyone can easily and quickly email 3D Printer Manufacturers with help from THIS SITE.
It creates a personalized email for you to voice your concerns about this bill and urging them to speak up.

Finished work on the PS5 Slim Disc — included some photos.
3D‑printed on the Bambu Lab P1S; the file is available now if you’re interested.
Had fun taking photos, so I added one with my resin print :)
Wonder if I could resin‑print the whole case in a clear blue…

#3dprinting #ps5games #playstation5 #stl #bambulab

www.ps5faceplates.com

Hey guys! Since Apple only supports STL files I decided to build a Quick Look app for 3MF files. My main goal was to keep the UI/UX as close to as possible to Apple.

## Features:

- Instant 3MF previews in Finder
- High-quality thumbnails
- Browse all build plates
- Interactive 3D preview
- Rotate, pan and zoom
- Fast loading performance
- Native macOS integration
- No slicer required
- Privacy-friendly (files stay on your Mac)
- Clean, lightweight interface

I’d love to hear some feedback!

- What do you think?
- Is something missing?
- Would you pay for the app and if so, what is a fair price?

I am not looking to get rich of it, but it would be nice if the (Apple related) costs are covered.