Someone on the Bambu Reddit suggested low profile furniture appliance dollies for easily moving/accessing printers. I can't find the post or Redditor, but wanted to thank someone for the suggestion. I was skeptical, but they work surprisingly well. We'll see how long they last!
I'm looking to sell my U1 that i purchased from a local retailer in early January. It's my understanding that my original warranty (which is 12months) is transferable and the Snapmaker Care is not? The website is not very clear on this. Has anyone purchased a used U1 and had the warranties actually transfer successfully? I'm wondering if it's even worthwhile to advertise with warranty--I'm waiting on a response from support but figured someone must have some experience with this.
Also, hoping to get an idea of what a fair ask is for right now (Popcap, hardened nozzles, and a few build plates). Thanks!
First test print of my newly designed Block IV Virginia Class Submarine. This is an early test print to find the first batch of gremlins. While it's based off the Virginia class submarine, ease of printing and modular design has taken precedent over accuracy. It will be printable as a static display or accommodate up to a 100MM WTC. Front hatches will open and close to expose tomahawk carousels and the torpedo doors will also be functional--sorry, no firing torpedoes!
This was also printed in Polymaker HT GF PLA because we wanted to see how the sun will affect the hull. More to come!
Has anyone figured out how to get their filaments to show up in Snorca? I have all 4 spools loaded and the printer has them listed on the control screen but the slicer only lists 2 of the 4. I've tried signing in and out as well as powering off the printer and restarting my PC. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am on Paxx firmware if that matters.
Free file from Makerworld. Excellent design and fantastic assembly. Dark Green Matte Bambu PLA
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2557320-apache-ah-64-xxl-model?from=search#profileId-2817195
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Finished up my 3D printed PBY Catalina “Black Cat” build and had an absolute blast with this one. Fantastic model and surprisingly easy to assemble. Everything fit together really well and the finished result captures the personality of the aircraft perfectly.
For anyone wondering why it’s painted matte black, the real Black Cats were specially modified PBY Catalinas used for nighttime operations later in WWII. They hunted ships, submarines, and coastal targets across the Pacific and the black paint scheme helped conceal them during low altitude night missions.
Before the rivet counters arrive: yes, I know this isn’t perfectly historically accurate. I took a few artistic liberties with some of the weapons, colors, and details because I wanted something inspired by the real aircraft while still adding my own spin to it.
Still have a few details left to add but wanted to share it now. Huge credit to the designer because this thing was incredibly fun to build. Hope he keeps these models coming!
Heinkel He 111 German WW2 Bomber. This is a free model available on MakerWorld that was designed by the same artist as the B-24 model in the previous post. This one features a unique "twist lock" connection system on the fuselage that makes assembly easy and a results in gap free snug assembly--no glue required. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2807515-heinkel-he111#profileId-3124317 This was printed in leftover PETG that turned out Ok. The clear petg for the windows didn't result in the smoothest of prints but overall it turned out pretty decent.
B-24 Liberator. File designed by Grafitomi on MakerWorld. https://makerworld.com/en/crowdfunding/206-b-24-liberator
Free print from MakerWorld creator "PB94". Super easy print with buttery smooth assembly. I highly recommend his other "Elite Squadron" models. Black PLA, Gold Silk PLA, and yellow PLA. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2769576-u-2-dragon-lady-snapkit-masterbuilds#profileId-3076168
Free print from MakerWorld creator "PB94". Super easy print with buttery smooth assembly. I highly recommend his other "Elite Squadron" models. Black PLA, Gold Silk PLA, and yellow PLA. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2769576-u-2-dragon-lady-snapkit-masterbuilds#profileId-3076168
Good evening. I just wanted to share my gratitude to the developers who've worked on this. I'm not a power user and pretty much fumble my way through a lot of this but I absolutely love HA and the work that is continuously put into this.
I'm not sure what exactly changed between the last version and today's update but HOLY SMOKES, it loads lightning fast now--I mean its instant when i click to pull up my dashboards. It wasn't slow by any means before, but its very noticeable on my system. You guys rock. Many thanks!
I bit the bullet and ordered the Biqu PopCap cover from Amazon on Friday for my Snapmaker U1 and it arrived today.
Paid $159.99. This was the package with 4 rolls of PLA Go.
I was hesitant because of the cost, but decided to try it because it does look much better than my printed version and it will be an easy return if I change my mind.
It looks great and fits like a glove. Besides that, I can't recommend it simply because of the price. I was expecting it to have a little heft, but it's VERY flimsy. I guess I was expecting a thickness like the drawers in my fridge, but it's not even close to that. It definitely doesn't dampen the sound like my homemade one.
In fairness, it boils down to the price. If I had to guess, the cover contains about $2 of material and they're charging $129.00 for it. If they were selling it for $50, i'd say that would be a bit too much, but acceptable.
Definitely go with a printed version or the box store bin version while you wait for the official cover.
Wanted to share a project I’ve been spending a ridiculous amount of time on lately.
This is part of what I’m calling Iron Keel Studio: modular 3D printed submarine kits built around what I call the Keel Core System.
One thing I want to make clear right away: using PVC as a hull core is not my invention. That concept has been around for a long time. What I found frustrating was how hard it was to find submarine models that were truly set up for it in a way that felt practical, scalable, and close to plug-and-play.
That’s what pushed me into this rabbit hole.
The idea behind my system is to use standardized Schedule 40 PVC pipe as the structural core for the long straight hull sections, then use 3D printed parts for the sections that actually need the shape, contours, transitions, and details. The goal is to avoid wasting huge amounts of print time and filament on giant cylindrical hull sections while also making the build stronger and easier to assemble.
So far, I’ve been developing and testing:
The 3-inch and 4-inch versions are part of the same Virginia-class development path. The 6-inch Columbia is a little different, but it helped prove the concept can work at a much larger size too.
This is not a finished project by any stretch. It is still very much in development. But I’ve put a lot of hours, trial and error, redesign work, and money into getting it to this point, and I’m finally at a stage where I’m proud enough of the progress to share it.
My goal is not to sell STL files. What I’m ultimately working toward is a physical kit that somebody could assemble in an afternoon with minimal instructions, without having to go through all the scaling, fitment, and print-planning headaches that I’ve been working through behind the scenes.
That’s really the bigger idea here: not just making a submarine model, but building a more practical kit system around large 3D printed submarine projects.
The main benefits of the Keel Core System so far have been:
Again, this is still a work in progress, but I wanted to put it out there for anyone who might find the concept interesting.
Would love to hear what other military model and 3D printing people think.
Coat of primer and ready to fill the gaps and hopefully paint.
i purchased files of a very nicely modeled Columbia class boat. I first printed a 1 meter model and a friend asked if I could print him one for a display at his bar.
I figured I could scale the main hull match schedule 40 PVC pipe which allowed me to make a huge version at about 1/74 scale.
I'll be using this first attempt to practice body filler and other post processing. it turned out fantastic and more importantly, it was an easy print which didn't require a ton of filament or time.
I’ve been working on a modern war strategy board game over the past few years, and a big part of it is built around 3D printable units and modular components.
The idea was to create a system where players can expand the game over time by printing additional units and game boards (the boards are currently not designed for 3D printing, but it would definitely be possible to create a matching printable version).
I’ve done multiple FDM print tests so far, and they all turned out clean. Most models don’t require support structures, which was an important goal during the design process.
I’d really appreciate some feedback from a 3D printing perspective — especially regarding the overall design and how the models come across visually.
Happy to share more details if anyone’s interested.
Does anyone know where I can buy some quality STL's for an FDM print? I've found a couple cruisers but nothing of decent quality. I had a family member serve on her and it would be nice to print off a nice model to keep his memory and story of the ship alive well past my generation.
I've been working on a Virginia-class model and decided to incorporate what I’m calling a “Block VI” upgrade. The block six variant includes the "CPM". AKA "Cribbage Payload Module".
My son is currently serving in the submarine force and mentioned the connection between submariners and cribbage going back to WWII patrol traditions which I believe started with the Wahoo? . Thought it would be fun to design something around that and make him a unique birthday gift.
It’s definitely on the larger side (just under 1m), but the idea wasn’t portability, it’s meant to hang on the wall and double as something functional when the opportunity to play comes up.
I also kept the exterior fairly simple on purpose. The focus was more on integrating the function cleanly rather than going all-in on surface detail.
This is still a prototype and much to be done. There are a few things I want to refine before doing a final version, mainly some color bleed on the cribbage board, dialing in the hatch fit/length, and a few finishing details on the sub itself. The hatch cover also serves as a holder for a deck of cards. I'm very happy with the snap magnet hatch that fits perfectly along the hull.
Curious what you all think.
First Modern jet print. I think that the Sunlu Grey PLA+ 2.0 was the perfect color for this model. While the stand is functional, It didn't turn out the greatest. SR-71 is next.
