r/SnapmakerU1

I have had this machine for 6 weeks. It work ok for 3 weeks and then the errors started. Toolhead errors. At first I just ignored them turning the machine on and off and resuming. Until the machine stopped printing at all. I followed step and decided it is probably just a cable contacted support and got it replaced. It did not fix the issue. Now every toolhead is erroring on every one except the original. It takes a full 24 hours to get tech support via email to get back to me. So I went on FB and someone suggested the belt maybe too tight. So I went to go adjust the belt and the toolhead switch was bulging on one side. So I thought we really have a problem. So I sent that picture over to them. They sent back that they are going to have me replace every board in the machine. They did not address the bulging part. I assume because it is not replaceable. So now I have to wait another 24 hours to get a response. I have asked for a machine replacement. i went for a completely assembled machine. Not something I have to complete disassemble and reassemble. I feel like I waisted $900. Here the thing I get it I must have gotten a lemon. Ok. The thing, that get me is that support feel like an AI bot. I have Gavin but the bot apparently cannot see that they just sent me a part and got my receipt because they are asking for all the info again. So either I am talking to different people or it a bot. Anyway let this be a caution tale. You may get a perfectly good machine or you may get a lemon. In my 20 years of 3D printing . Bambu and Prusa would never. I haven’t even had to call support on any other machine. 😠

I recently updated to the extended firmware and the live view camera is a game changer. I've had a wyze cam on the printer previously so I could monitor things from work. I feel I'm fairly tech smart but network stuff is an area I know fuck all about. I would love to find a way to be able to access this feed easily while I'm out and about. Is it as simple as a VPN back into my home network?

I noticed in Fluidd on my U1, there are all these 'T' options for the Tools.

https://preview.redd.it/wel7jx6k7b2h1.png?width=817&format=png&auto=webp&s=f51d5194cec719120859a053043985cb09305781

so far I've been unable to determine what they are for exactly. I'm assuming it's the extruder but if that's the case, it should be T0-T3.

Note: I do have the extended firmware installed, however I want to say I saw this prior to flashing it.

Hi, I recently purchased a spool of Polymaker Breakaway support filament, specifically https://polymaker.com/product/polysupport/

For my first use, like a noob, I simply enabled the supports (tree-shaped) and set the filament in question as the support interface. I left everything else unchanged, as per the Snapmaker Orca ultrafine profile. The other filaments used in the print were Elegoo matte pla.

The results weren't the best; the supports came off, but not as easily as I expected, and above all, they left quite a bit of residue on the contact surfaces (oddly, even from filaments other than the interface filament).

That's why I'm here asking the experts: can you advise me on which settings I should change in Orca Slicer to get better results?

*EDIT* added a few pictures of the settings tweeked after first few suggestions and the results... I'm still making some mistake. The rest of the print (without supports) is perfect!

https://preview.redd.it/ti1vfm8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9fce066e2017cee36bd12d39d0db50bb391a7917

https://preview.redd.it/kdxj9m8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbfb6a9ccbba931c6b255b8fd1b45d840b70ec1d

https://preview.redd.it/rhymtq8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=38f9b3d153bf3fd27f2c8d229636e65a079ebd7d

https://preview.redd.it/k3leln8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d52d0846990055db93355808bd29054144886e32

https://preview.redd.it/fqp9bo8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6690979f01cf180cd317f4f8a4852086b4b81bf0

https://preview.redd.it/ttjleo8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a57c747510136aa022c58ed9e7e64185aec8ed54

https://preview.redd.it/t94c1o8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f79b8393058b3bbb0f60225727bd8df30c76b39a

https://preview.redd.it/6rl2go8rtf2h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9ed670ec6368854ae5925e33abd8d69d11ea1dec

Please Snapmaker Team, make the manual loading process easier on the U1...please.

I assume that a lot of us are bypassing the feeders (for a lot of different reasons) and it is a hustle to unload filaments.

Just make it simple....
>loading mode>pick the slot>load.

It would be amazing!
Thank you for the great work.

https://preview.redd.it/bjl0d4ndg62h1.png?width=558&format=png&auto=webp&s=57e80d1b58fa0dac4e6d57fb1b1ebb73b152e6da

Can anyone tell me why in Snorca the adaptive bed mesh is set to

https://preview.redd.it/0p3l5zyfg62h1.png?width=537&format=png&auto=webp&s=99018d7ce3b60befb8c540b6a6492410e9954131

And Orca is set as this? I am trying to swap over I prefer regular Orca but not sure why the differences.

RESOLVED!!!

i submitted a ticket to support and this is their answer.

You only need to adjust the Z-offset parameter of Extruder 0, which corresponds to Toolhead 1. After you calibrate the Z-offset using Toolhead 1 and confirm that the first layer prints well, please run the multi-toolhead offset calibration once again. After completing this calibration, the print quality of the other three toolheads will be aligned with Toolhead 1.

Original Post:

Hi all,

Can I get a guidance regarding the U1 Z offset? (pic attached)

These are my current Z offset settings in the printer.cfg

https://preview.redd.it/ev83rmubjy1h1.png?width=342&format=png&auto=webp&s=74e5f992080b32c2c865f432acee3aee482d6efc

Is the U1 should have been automatically adjust those Z offset for each extruder before I manually changed them all?

Do I only need to change the z offset of just "extruder"? and not the rest?

TIA

EDIT: I have defaulted and updated to PAXX12-16 firmware. Current Z Offsets : the z offset: -0.05 ; 0 ; 0 ; 0.

I have been looking for a vertical filament box set up that keeps the vents on the side of the printer free since I got this printer. I decided to buy the design from CC3D Projects because I didn’t want to have to modify an existing design. I didn't want to pay for a design but decided that doing so would be worth not having to modify free designs.
I was wrong.

Had I not paid 28 Euros for it, I would not be making this post. 
This design is not, in my opinion, worth the money. 

Problems:

1. Screw locations. The designer has decided to place the screws inside the body of the holder. This makes for cleaner lines on the outside but assembly is a pain in the ass. Furthermore, the designer has opted to install the screws directly into the plastic instead of installing threaded inserts or nuts. I understand this leads to a cleaner look, but threading into plastic is inherently weak, especially if using the recommended 2 walls. The best way for assembly would have been from the outside in with nuts or threaded inserts. It would have messed up the outside appearance but assembly would be easier and by using nuts and bolts you would eliminate the weakness of threading into plastic.

2. Spool holders. These needed to be modified in order to fit better. The original design has them quite tight. My concern is breaking the inside holder (2 walls remember) trying to swap filament. I don’t know how often others swap filaments but I do nearly every time I print. Sooner rather than later these will break. An improved solution is a slightly looser fit. Not enough for them to pop out during printing but enough where they can be easily removed. A better solution would be something with bearings and a rod that sit in U, like the standard A-frame holders. I am somewhat concerned about friction between the plastic and the spool rolls. A rod with bearings would eliminate most problems caused by friction. I still need to model these. 

3. The hinges. These are plastic on plastic hinges. Over time and use these will not perform as well as a rod with bearings. If this is opened once in a while then plastic on plastic may be ok, but if this is expected to be used daily for years, a more robust system should be used. 

4. The overall height. If you don’t print the bottom piece that connects to the drier, it still sits lower than the printer. It seems clear to me this is intentional. It causes one to need to purchase the drawer that goes under the box. Or, as I did, put stuff under the printer to raise it up. Looking closer at the box, it looks like the lower unit could be modified to fit so raising the printer is not necessary. Not everyone will buy the polybox heaters. Many of us have other driers and don’t need those.

5. The desiccant boxes need rework. This is a part that will have to be removed often, a slide design for the top cover is easier to remove, prints better as it will be flat, and doesn’t require supports.

   

Frankly for the amount I spent, $32 USD (28 euro) I shouldn’t have to mess with the design, it should be complete. I found a similar version of this for free on thingy. It too would have required modification but at least the design itself wouldn’t have cost me anything.