r/SnapmakerU1

And - another U1 owner...
▲ 20 r/SnapmakerU1+1 crossposts

And - another U1 owner...

Warning 

This became a long post.  No, it's not AI.  I write a lot for the day job and on my various sites.  If you don't like it, scroll down for pics or move on.  Others might enjoy it - so be it if not. ;)

Background

I've currently got a Prusa Core One L which I've been printing away with for some time now.  I'd been mostly-patiently waiting for INDX to become available for the Core One L, but I now have a direct small-but-real need for my (non-printing) business to be able to do some multi-color/material printed items.  

Considering some of the issues to date on the INDX launch (e.g. nozzlegate, delays in general), I needed to look at other options.  I've got faith Prusa (and BondTech) will eventually get INDX sorted, and will pick it up then, but I needed something <now>. I had already loved the potential and market disruption when the U1 went through kickstarter (and the price vs the later H2C, etc.), and nearly jumped on the bandwagon then.  

The Bambus were already not in the running.  Good machines, but not for me with the closed garden nature and price point on something like the H2C.  I did take a look at the Flashforge Creator, specifically the Creator 5 Pro as the only effective comparison.  There are a few things I like on the FF C5Pro, besides the cover being included, but ultimately the open-ness and community around the U1 + availability of paxx made the choice for me, as right now I need a lot more printing over tweaking - I have no doubt things like FF profiles will continue to improve, but as they too are Klipper-based but not conforming with the license, well - yeah, U1 it is.  Were Flashforge compliant with the Klipper/GPL license - it *may* have been a tougher call, and their pricing is obviously very intentionally under-cutting the U1, but to me, it's worth the relative maturity and community to pay a bit more for the cover and chamber heater as I do intend to be printing some ASA - single color will go to the C1L, but I'll have enough work for the U1 as well.

Ordering and Delivery

So ironically while I am both a SnapMaker and Amazon partner ( blog and https://3dsupplyfinder.com ) , there's no discounts for me - which is fine, honestly.  Waffled a bit between Amazon and ordering direct from SnapMaker, mainly wanting to see if Snap had any package options, e.g. 'add hardened nozzles' but was pretty much a wash, so ordered via US Amazon over the weekend.  Initially was set for a few days out (Wed), which was kind of a bummer (yeah, that whole Prime/same day thing kinda spoils you, doesn't it? :D ), but a heck of a lot quicker than either Kickstarters or my Prusa 'who knows?'.  

 A few things kinda sucked:

  • I have an old industrial set of steel shelving my C1L is sitting on, with 3/4" plywood shelving on it.  It is a MOFO to move the shelving around.  Oh yeah, and like 500# of crap sitting on the top shelf - the one I need to move.  Needed to do it anyways, eventually, as I woefully underestimated INDX height, but now with the U!, gotta do it.
  • It's SUPER crazy hot and humid right now.  
  • I'm gonna need more PolyDryer boxes.  My 'pre-INDX' system was pretty well sorted, with around 8 boxes spanning PLA+ in a few colors for my daughter, black, red, orange PETG, and TPU, but … crap.  I *know* I don't have four PLA/PLA+ dry anywhere b/c I never use it except for daughter's occasional toys.  Yeah, first world problems right there.

  

 Woke up Monday to a 'surprise' - Amazon said it's gong to be delivered <today>(Monday).  Huh.  Ok then.  Got the shelving moved higher, eventually, by levering up a side at a time, as I just wasn't feeling taking the plywood down - in 90*+ temps, probably sweat off 5#.  

Shocker - Amazon 'oopsed.'  Checked a few times, then around midnight - 'sorry, arrived late to distribution center, it'll be there by or on Wednesday.'  Ok then..meh. So wake up Tuesday to - it's coming <today>.  Yeah ok, we'll see.  Eventually it turned out they weren't lying when I got a notice '10 stops away' it became real, so thankfully I work flex time, and at least got a few hours to get things set up.  

 Unboxing, Assembly, etc.

In short, a really good job on packing this thing.  The install/quick-start guide was also good, as were the yellow folded over tape ends.   Just near zero issues and well done. There was a time or two I thought I might be missing a part, but nope, all there with a few spare screws.

 The only real area for improvement here (for assembly… ):

  • I can see people mixing up the screws for the tool head usb-c cable ends.  Should just make them the same in a future rev and be done with it. 
  • A screwdriver or slightly longer hex key would have been nice.  Not needed but would make it a bit quicker.  
  • Having only Toolhead 1 with a peel-off sticker on it’s back had me wondering for a moment if I got someone’s return printer…
  • It would have been great to cover if it needs post-assembly / pre-first-print lube..
  • I’m not sure if I missed something or if the ‘towers’ the rear usb-c cables is supposed the really be ‘free,’ have a velcro loop to it and the 6mm tube and usb cable or ?

 Power on and setting up for first print

I suppose this is where I did run into some issues, and the end of the quick start really should cover, IMO.  I plan to run paxx and possibly LAN-only in the future, but of course wanted to get at least a print or two done first, compare Snorca vs Orca etc. before that.

It seems that wasn’t to be, at least not today.  

Powered it on wondering if I ‘needed’ a SN account set up already.  There was a QR code at some point, but /I had issues creating a SN account, hanging.  Later I didn’t see an obvious way to bring the QE code back (later found - account).  To be fair, I'm now unsure if the printed guide had the online version chapter 6 in it covering account, etc.  There also wasn't a YT playlist I could find that was really setup -> first print, etc., but there is indeed a 'video 2' out there, and they're good.  The part about raising the bed to remove the bed adjustment screw tape - really should moved in the PDF guide as BEFORE first print.

As there seemingly wasn’t any way to share the wifi ssid and credentials from my phone, I tried adding to my 2.4GHz network.  Several times.  It showed green but apparently failed, several times.  Having an actual status for joining would have been nice.  As it turns out, my ISP decided to ‘gift’ us with an outage, While my phone would tell me ’joined but no internet,’ the U1 pretty much said nothing other than eventually something at some point of ‘not connected,’ so I moved on.

At this point, wife was home, I still needed to finish some work, so it was scattered.  I really wanted to at least get to first print.  My ISP remained sporadically down, but eventually was back 'enough' to pull down SM firmware 1.5.2 from the 1.4.1 that was loaded on it.  

Went through calibrations, skipped account setup with <who knows> for connectivity, and had swapped around some dryer boxes and dried the Snap PLA a bit while going, so - on to the filament test/calibration bit.  

I haven't sorted my final setup here yet - I suspect I'll wind up relocating the autofeeders and maybe rotating them, but the plan is to use stacked polydryers to feed from, 2 per side, and potentially more for the C1L when INDX eventually makes it.  For now, I need to get the 2x per side working for the U1, which has 6mm coming out from the polydryer.  I printed out Ken's ECA feed adapter, while of course the inserts I had on hand are on the larger side, got one to press in, snapped the other.  Couldn't quickly locate the heat gun, so scaled it to 101% and re-printed on the C1L.  Yeah, turns out the many hours I spent calibrating was pretty much spot on, as now yeah, I could get the ECA adapters in, barely, but it's probably slightly loose on the autofeeders.  Oh well - I've got some more ECA fittings coming and will re-do it.  

 I had a wonky overly complex plan for the whole 6mm to 4mm bit, which I'd been meaning to do for a while, so printed some parts besides the simple 6mm/4mm adapters I've had, and well - yeah, there's not a ton of room there, so I need to simplify that whole idea.  Will probably just do a simple adapter, leave a short tail on the U1 via Ken's EA bracket, and do some real measuring, as if I stack the polydryers, the top and bottom 6mm lengths should probably be different.  Gonna play with this a bit still.

The autofeeders are cool, but weird in that the initial load seems to stop short of the toolhead by a good 4 inches or so.  I guess it's intended.  Fumbled the first try or two via the menu / load bit, but got everything loaded.

So - first print?  Finally?  Maybe?

I sure thought so, but - not quite.  

Kind of odd to me it only has the single dragon on the internal emmc, but ok, so be it.  Want to make sure all 4 toolheads are working anyways, and will give it to our toddler, so why not?

Went to print, and it had an 'autofeed anomaly' - ok, the ECA brackets were a bit abused trying to get the fittings in, and at least one of the boxes were kind of  less than ideal, but hmm.  Unloaded, moved things around a bit slightly, refed, and went back to try again.  Not sure if they're overly sensitive or what triggered it really, but I wanted to at least get a print in now it's after dinner time, etc.  

So. let's try again.  It goes through it's to me, overly long startup, grabs a toolhead, and tap, tap, tap, tap, …. tap, tap, tap - homing anomaly.  Well, crap.  Yeah, I ran through the belt tuning instructions, although I need to dig in more to understand how it's actually adjusting things for future reference versus 'loosen and move around, then tighten.'  

After a few more tries with the same result, threw the PopCap on top, and I gave it up for the night.  Couldn't quite make it to sleep and this was annoying me, so got up around midnight to go give it '30 mins or back to bed.'  I went to re-do the tuning but have to tell you, while I had zero issues doing it the first time, I couldn't for the life of me manage to do this, on a ladder, with low lights, at night.  Just couldn't contort enough, get the right amount of light in there, and get the hex key seated.  Undoubtedly easy enough from the other side, but it's back to a wall and window sitting on a 2" paver, and I just wasn't up for more contortion.  I had done some searching beforehand, and saw this seemed to be a fairly common issue, with some doing multiple rounds of belt adjustment, one entertaining guy going postal about 'why should I need to do this' on and on, and a few saying they just moved it around manually or moved it to a different spot and then it worked.  Of course, the menu brings you to 'homing calibration' but at this point I didn't want to figure out how to get the toolhead off the chassis manually (sorted now), so I moved it around a bit, retried and - printing!

Now - let's see if it *does* anything, like lays down actual layers and completes.  Got this far, so sat through making sure the first layers and color changes made it through, which they did, and called it a night.  I fought a bit with the app, as I really would've preferred to be able to spot scan progress before falling asleep, but it failed every way possible on phone, on ipad (awful, no one wants phone-sized on a tablet :-/ ) - had it's IP, so wth?  (yeah, sorted later, need LAN mode on to add by IP, and my ISP hadn't helped any, but would be good to be more obvious).  

Woke up, had to grab breakfast but definitely said - good, nothing burned, followed by - let's see what we got.  

And it printed fine - didn't do any filament calibration, but looks decent for a first print to me, and was happy it made it through.  Of course, I need to now start to see what it does on the next 10, 20, etc. prints, but at least it's up and going now. :)

I since got it 'bound' in normal Orca, to my SM account, SM Orca, and flashed the firmware to paxx.  I've got some bearings coming for improving the polydryer rollers, and the other ECAs.  I need to sort my 'v2' drybox to autofeeder arrangement, sort the mounting for the PandaBreath (and firmware), print a fan cover, the noctua fan mount for the steppers, some RFID hooks and tags, do some calibration prints, and sort what kind of Pi compute I really need, if any - I've got a 3b but I use it for work, and some Pi5s but also used for work and not into buying one of them at the double/triple-normal prices right now, and not quite sure if I 'need' one - I use PrusaSlicer but have been using normal Orca more lately on the C1L, and waiting for PrusaConnect Local to release, so dunno yet, need to go play and research a bit yet.  Will likely just shift to using normal Orca for both printers.  

Not enough time to say what I think other than great packaging, pretty easy assembly, good videos I saw *after* I was trying to sort IF I needed an account at all etc., and happy I got it to printing.  ;)

 

u/wegster — 14 hours ago
▲ 31 r/SnapmakerU1+1 crossposts

With this incredible design and fine details the Snapmaker U1 makes light work on this. All in all less than 24 hrs with no poop.

u/Baltisaros — 19 hours ago

U1 in the UK?

My bf is in Scotland, and I’m in the US. I’m the hobbyist.

We’ve decided to get a 3d printer for his flat for when I visit. I think the U1 will be perfect for our use case since it will be mostly PETG or TPU (we’re both hikers and I want to make a few stuff for our next trip). I already have a couple U1 in the States and they’re so far my favorite printers.

Neither one of us knows how to acquire one online, though, or which stores are reputable. In the US, I order online or go to Microcenter. Are there equivalents in the UK? I can only find the Snapmaker EU store online. Does a UK store even exist?

reddit.com
u/borborygmess — 18 hours ago

Joined the gang today

P1s started to be more of an issue than a hobby so now im leaving the bambu herd. First print was amazing and the tool changing is a mechanical masterpiece to watch. Absolutely love it! Tips, tricks and the "required" printed mods are appreciated 😊

u/zaireli — 19 hours ago

Loading issue

My u1 I have had for a while, I don’t use it like crazy but have had loading problems before. I usually just cut the filament straighten it and reload it but I have never hat the actual tool head shake when the filament is trying to go in. Any help would be awesome!

u/GrAHAm5555555555 — 1 day ago

First Layer Issues – Snapmaker U1

Hi everyone,

I’m having some problems with the first layer on my Snapmaker U1 and would appreciate some help.

I’m using the standard/default settings:

Layer height: 0.2 mm

Test print: 260 × 260 × 0.2 mm single-layer square

No major changes to the standard profile

As you can see in the pictures, the first layer has uneven areas, blobs/gaps and inconsistent extrusion, especially around the edges.

I also tested the Z-offset. With a Z-offset of -0.03 mm, the result actually becomes even worse.

What could be causing this? Is this more likely a Z-offset / bed leveling issue, flow/extrusion issue, or something else?

Thanks in advance!

u/Ready_Connection_615 — 23 hours ago

Clean filament from U1 Wire Brush?

This is the metal brush for cleaning the print heads that comes with the U1. How can I get this filament that's "dried" on it off?? I've tried pulling but it's on their pretty solid.

u/Lone_Wolf — 1 day ago

Can the U1 become my end all be all?

I've been weighing the pros and cons of each printer I've been seeing and I don't really want to stay with a single nozzle machine.

I am an engineering student, and while I have yet to dabble in engineering filaments past PETG, I know I want to eventually, and I don't want my printer to be the limiting factor. I currently have an A1 and A1 mini.

I have been looking at the Centauri Carbon 2, QIDI Q2, BambuLab X2D, and the U1. Although the U1 is on the higher end of my budget, it solves most of my concerns, except one. I get good, and non wasteful multicolor/multimaterial, it can handle most engineering filaments, but it's not enclosed, nor has a heater, meaning it won't be on par with those that are enclosed and have a heater. That being said, I know the community has lots of solutions for these and I wanted to ask what they are and how people have dealt with it, as well as hearing about printing engineering filaments on it.

So that's my question, can this printer do engineering filaments? I don't want to do PEEK, but I'd like ABS, ASA, PA, PPA/PPS. If so, how much modding is there, just top cover and chamber heater?

reddit.com
u/yokeome — 1 day ago
▲ 28 r/SnapmakerU1+1 crossposts

I tested Filament Runout scenarios on the U1 so you don't have to.

I wanted to know how filament runout detection works on the U1 and couldn't find any comprehensive documentation, thought I'd share what I've learned. As it turns out it's a little more complicated than I expected and behaves slightly differently when you have Air Print detection OFF vs ON.

To complicate things, I found out (the hard way) that the feeder sensors weren't calibrated correctly on my printer.

Here's how to validate sensor settings, and expected happy path behavior below...

  • Verify your Feeder Empty Threshold [port_ch_x_threshold] (Why Tuning is Required):
  • Stock cutoff threshold is 0.18. On my printer, loaded is ~0.018 and empty is ~0.15-0.16 (still below 0.18, so an empty slot falsely reads "loaded").
  • Run the FEED_PORT command for each feeder, you will have to unload filament to get the empty value.

&#8203;

04:10:49 $ FEED_PORT MODULE=left CHANNEL=0
04:10:49 // port[0]: adc value = 0.022955, filament: detected
04:10:52 $ FEED_PORT MODULE=left CHANNEL=1
04:10:52 // port[1]: adc value = 0.023932, filament: detected
04:10:58 $ FEED_PORT MODULE=right CHANNEL=0
04:10:58 // port[0]: adc value = 0.017521, filament: detected
04:11:00 $ FEED_PORT MODULE=right CHANNEL=1
04:11:00 // port[1]: adc value = 0.017827, filament: detected
  • If untuned, empty spools masquerade as filament break in PTFE tube or false tangle (Error 38).
  • Set threshold between loaded and empty (for example: port_ch_2_threshold: 0.12 for T3).
  • In your printer.cfg look for `port_ch_1_threshold` and update with your new value:

&#8203;

[filament_feed_right] 
port_ch_1_threshold: 0.12 
port_ch_2_threshold: 0.12

[filament_feed_lef] 
port_ch_1_threshold: 0.12 
port_ch_2_threshold: 0.12

Workaround if untuned: Insert filament, execute FEED_AUTO MODULE=right CHANNEL=1 LOAD=1, then press Resume.

Happy Paths - Expected behaviors

Filament runout - Same-tool refill - Air Print detection OFF

Your spool of filament runs dry!

  1. You see the spool is running out! Fine, Let the tail go through the feeder
  2. Print keeps going using filament remaining in PTFE tube (doesn't trigger air print because it's off)
  3. You can either wait until the toolhead runout sensor triggers and pauses the print, or mount a new spool of filament (same type/color/rfid match), and insert new filament into the feeder
  4. Cancel on-screen Filament Anomaly error
  5. The Replenish workflow:
    1. Feeder empty → no spare in alternate toolhead → wait for insert (or proceed to pre-load if already inserted)
  6. Put the new roll in the feeder → it should preload, pushing filament to toolhead
  7. Load finishes automatically, purge, and print continues

If you've got the auto-refill option enabled and another tool is already loaded with the same filament, you won't have to reload manually: wait for that same pause and it should auto-switch to the toolhead with the compatible filament.

Filament breaks in PTFE tube -Air Print detection OFF

A break in the filament (filament still in the feeder, break in the PTFE).

  1. Downstream stub is still at the toolhead, print keeps going using that piece.
  2. That stub clears the toolhead path sensor → triggers a runout pause.
  3. Feeder IR still detected (roll is still in the slot) → firmware says snap → T3 → T3 → FEED_AUTO LOAD=1 by itself.
  4. Feeder pushes the same roll through the gap until the path sensor sees filament again.
  5. Auto Purge, print continues. You don’t need to press Resume.

Filament runout - Same tool refill - Air Print detection ON

Your spool of filament runs dry!

  1. IR goes empty → tangle detection disarms → no 38 error
  2. Print continues on the PTFE
  3. Pause when the toolhead path sensor trips
  4. Cancel on-screen Filament Anomaly error
  5. Replenish workflow: IR empty → no spare in alternate toolhead → wait for insert
  6. Put a new roll in the same feeder → it should preload, pushing filament to toolhead
  7. Resume Print → Completes filament load/purge, and print continues

Filament breaks in PTFE - Air Print detection ON

A break in the filament (filament still in the feeder, break in the PTFE).

  • If Air Print detection is ON, a filament break in the PTFE tube usually looks like a tangled spool to the printer:
    • Feeder IR sensor shows filament loaded
    • Feeder wheels not turning, E still moving → Error 38 at the feeder.
    • No replenish cycle, no auto-push to toolhead
    • Resume alone won’t join the break.

There is no fully automatic happy path here. The printer pauses at the feeder (error 523/38) and will not auto-push.

  1. Print pauses: filament has tangled! Cancel the error on the printer, Do not press Resume (it will error 38 again).
  2. Leave the roll in the feeder.
  3. Check the path sensor: QUERY_FILAMENT_SENSOR SENSOR=e3_filament
  4. If it still says detected, clear the downstream stub (purge, or pull the piece in the PTFE tube out by hand. A break right after the feeder can be almost a meter).
    1. To purge - you will have to ensure the nozzle is at print temp and then press the extrude button
    2. You may be better off heating the nozzle, and pulling the broken filament out manually, especially if there's a long piece in the PTFE tube. Heat to a minimum (180ish for PLA) so that you don't introduce a clog when you pull hot filament back through the heat break!
  5. Run: FEED_RUNOUT_EVENT_HANDLE MODULE=right CHANNEL=1 to transition from a load_finish state to a preload_finish state - essentially treating this a as a standard filament runout case
  6. Then: FEED_AUTO MODULE=right CHANNEL=1 LOAD=1You should see the motor run and wait for a manual resume.
  7. Press Resume. It purges and continues.
reddit.com
u/dj_splice — 2 days ago

Catastrophic print fail on the U1

Greetings all, I have had my U1 for about 4 months now and an getting a bit frustrated with all the babysitting I have to do with the printer. Most of the issues I have been able to fix on my own but this one is something that I wanted to make sure to get help with.

As you can see the printer looks like it failed 20% into the print and just continued on its way like there was no issue only to finally detect an error when it tried to put the tool head away.

The irony here is that I was printing calibration tags because as I said, the u1 has been so unreliable I wanted to try and see what adjustments I could make in order to try and dial it in better than the auto settings do.

I thought there was some sort of AI error detection or something? It has detected spaghetti very very late but did catch it a few times, but this seems like a pretty big issue to not catch! The crazy thing is that this should have been extremely easy to catch because the tool head would have been several millimeters too high smashing against the bed.

Any ideas on how to fix this? I'm not sure what to do other than to heat up the nozzle or take a blow torch to the thing at this point 😢

u/viper949 — 2 days ago

Z axis/ Ironing

How do I get my ironing smooth across the board? I made this 250mm x 250mm 2 layer print with ironing to see how my printer was working out after doing a manual z level. Only the top right corner and some of the bottom left came out glossy/ smooth. The rest is fairly rough as you can see. Also the deformation on the left is caused by (I'm assuming) the fan. Any ideas?

u/Current-Study-2512 — 1 day ago

Quality Advice

Hello everyone,

I’m trying to create high-quality prints where the layer lines are barely visible. The default 0.08, 0.12, and 0.16 High Quality profiles in OrcaSlicer and Snorca still seem a bit too fast for what I’m aiming for.

What speed values are you all using to achieve that perfect finish? Even though these profiles are meant to be slower, they still seem too fast to get the flawless quality I see from other users.

Could you please advise me on which specific speed settings I should reduce?

Thanks in advance! :)

reddit.com
u/b0nn1n — 2 days ago

Any idea how to prevent this happening ? Or how to fix it. Seems to be a retraction or maybe a seam issue.

Slicing in snorca using pretty much all default profiles in snorca.

u/nathpenn — 1 day ago

Support on the cheap

If y'all need a cheap support material but don't want to pay the shitty price of stuff like pva or bambus support for pla check out polymakers cope filament. This stuff is in the same family as Petg so it will stick to it but it won't bond with PLA. However it prints via the same settings as pla so you can use the same bed temp. This is also a good choice for the p1s owners and the like to use as the support interface layers. Best thing is that it can be had for as low as 12 bucks a 2kg roll!

Warning: this stuff fuses to PEI plates so hairspray or glue is a must.

u/zmunky — 3 days ago

Strange buzzing in my left feeder

Finally got myself a brand new snapmaker u1!! This printer is freaking amazing!

One strange issue I have and didn't find anything online about it is a weird buzzing in my left feeder for nozzle 1.

High pitch buzz like a tiny screw rattling at high frequency.

Any idea?

u/Chemical-Tension-711 — 2 days ago
▲ 10 r/SnapmakerU1+1 crossposts

New U1 owner saying hi: TPU trouble, bed mesh, and which slicer do you use?

Hey everyone 👋

Just joined the club — got my U1 five days ago and I'm still grinning at it. Not a newbie tho, I'm coming from an Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro, and the main reason I went with the U1 was Klipper and how flexible it is.

Funny thing: all the deep knowledge I had to collect to make the Neptune print half-decent feels completely useless here. Stuff just… works. Not complaining! Pretty sure that experience will pay off eventually.

Most of my old filament presets moved over fine and print great, but I've already hit a couple of U1-specific things:

1. TPU drama. Got a roll of cheap chinese TPU, calibration tests came out fine, but on the first real model it started printing air after 2-3 layers. Cancelled, pulled the filament out of the tool with a LOT of force, and decided to stick to rigid stuff for now. Thing is, after that the tool stopped grabbing filament at all — just the classic clicking. I was sure it was a clog or leftover soft filament somewhere, so I tore the head down to the bare bones… and it was perfectly clean. Weird. Got it loading again by holding the extrude button and slowly pushing the strand by hand untill I felt the gears bite. Works now, but I'm a little worried this becomes a recurring thing. Anyone run into this?

2. The printer status view in Snapmaker Orca. Coming from vanilla Orca + Fluidd I'm used to seeing way more info, bed mesh especially. I connected the U1 to my old vanilla Orca install just to double check, and yep — it's all there. Also found out how tilted my bed actually is 😅 Would never have known otherwise, prints are coming out perfect so far. Hence my poll question above — which slicer are you using?

Plenty more questions coming, but honestly I'm just having a blast with this thing. Supports in a different material are pure magic — finally I can stop being scared of supports 😄

UPD:

Fan Fact - because of where I live (UAE) local retailers sell U1 for 1.4K USD. Which is not far from final price if you order officially and pay additional fee on the border. At least that is how I understood this.

So as soon as I saw this one for 1K USD I acted fast. Eventually I bought Chinese local version. Which means I have no cloud and other official fancy staff such as Cloud Firmware Updates. So, it is pure LAN only mode, but I plan to resolve remote availability via my home routes setup.

reddit.com
u/DioSeo — 3 days ago

Brand new U1; Toolhead 4 takes 2-3 times to seat?

Doing my first test print using the built-in dragon.

My printhead 4 keeps pulling out, then going back in. It's taking 2-3 attempts every time it swaps. The other 3 heads appear to be doing fine.

Any quick troubleshooting before I message Snapmaker?

reddit.com
u/LongUsername — 2 days ago
▲ 5 r/SnapmakerU1+1 crossposts

came across this slicer

Pasted directly from it's disclaimer

Most slicers only cut in straight planes. PolyCarver lets you draw curved, freeform cuts through 3D models, so you can split parts the way the shape actually needs. Grab the free beta and start carving cleaner, more useful pieces.

https://preview.redd.it/lpdxim7te0kh1.png?width=918&format=png&auto=webp&s=daf831240374f5cc1f7eb73341597d47502a4c13

https://daverigdesign.kit.com/polycarver

reddit.com
u/New_Education5151 — 2 days ago
▲ 5 r/SnapmakerU1+1 crossposts

Text not showing on first layer of print

Hi all,

I’m hoping to get some help.

I’ve printed an UNO card box that I found online.

I would like to put my child’s name on it, but whenever I preview it in the slicer, the letters do not show.

EDIT - I would like to try to make the letters flush on the first layer of the print.

I’ve searched online and have tried many different things.

I’m still learning, but I’m hoping some of you grizzled vets out there could give me a hand.

All software is updated, and I’m using a Snapmaker U1 with no modifications.

Any tips or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

u/Your_Left_Shoe — 3 days ago