After a few weeks of it sitting in my storage unit, I am finally able to setup my snapmaker. I was setting it up, and one of the filament tubes came out of the box kinked. Is this going to cause problems and be something I should contact support about, or is this something I can ignore?
Does anyone have issues with the snapmaker orca filament selection when try to send a print to your U1? I hate that it disconects the user every few minutes. WTH Snapmaker? Can this not be fixed. No issues with my Kobra s1 or my Centauri Carbons.
Title says it all.
I had the prime tower fall over at the tail end of a 20 hour print. I was able to visit the printer every few minutes and clean the mess up for the final hour, but I would have loved to just disable the tower and sacrifice some potential quality over the time suck.
Is this a terrible option to add?
(I made this a question because of the flair requirement).
So last night, the printer had an hour left on a 3 hour print, and I went to bed. While I was in bed, the power dipped. I assumed the print was dead, and figured I'll just deal with it in the morning. So I woke up and there was a message asking if I wanted to try and save it. And it just worked. I only get like 1 or 2 of those blips a year but it's still nice to know the feature is there.
Просто пиздец немогу нихуя напечатать помогите пж
Variable layer height + manual snug supports = not so good result.
What to do? How to improve?
So I just got a U1 for my new apartment and I’m so excited. That being said, I measured where I want it to go and while the printer will fit fine, I can’t really have a big table around it. My MAXIMUM footprint is 2’x2’ My research pointed towards the IKEA Malm, but that’s been discontinued and replaced with a more expensive (and lower quality) model apparently.
Does anyone have recommendations for sturdy tables that are close if not flush to the size of the U1? I’m hoping to find an oak color style, but I’m not picky at this point.
Between the printer and the apartment I’m at a point where I’m looking for something anything more budget friendly (under $100ish?). I’ve had next to no luck on FB marketplace either unfortunately.
Hello guys, as by the title, I'm trying to print some PLA pieces using PETG as support since these two don't stick together, but as the pictures shows the end result is very lacking.
Picture 1 and 2 is for the behind, 3 is for the top to show that the printing quality is very good
I'm printing with 0.2 nozzle at a 0.04 layer height (0.12/16 for first layer), and I put a 0.05 distance between object and support.
I know (and tried multiple times) that when printing with a layer height of 0.2 the best setting for the distance is 0.265 but I never found other info on optimal setting for difference layer heights
Can someone know how to help me? Thank you so much
I can already tell you that both filaments aren't the problem since I used those after and didn't get any problem (prints with no supports)
I'm trying to optimise speed vs quality.for some simple shaped object I wanted to max the adaptive layer height to 0.32 and the smallest being 0.12
I believe I'm facing extrusion issues and nozzle clogging at 0.32 layer height. Fyi I'm using the standard 0.4 nozzle size. At 0.32 layer height I'm seeing empty pockets of filament etc. at 0.2 and below the prints are perfect
Do you think it's because of a specific brand of filaments causing it?
Or 0.32 is too much of a height for the snapmaker?
Shouldn't the temps go up with high extrusion?
What am I missing here?
Is there some calibrations i could do ?
I have printed this file several times on my old printer and can't figure out why it's not printing well on the U1. It seems to be almost impossible to articulate and so much so that it that there are cracks on some of the joints. The only difference is this time I used a matte PLA and I've printed it with silk PLA before. But why would that make it print differently? Here is a link to the file I am printing from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1790624
Help, I have children waiting for these! 😄
As the title states. I'm getting blobbing. I've done the flow(PA) calibration before the print. I've tried adjusting z-hop settings, wipe settings. I've reduced the flow on the prime tower, but nothing seems to work. I've confirmed that the printer, and the slicer are all set for .6mm nozzles.
I'm almost starting to think that the reason it worked on .4mm is that the stock nozzles are stainless steel, and the new ones are hardened. I did raise the temperature 3 degrees, but I'm not sure if that matters. Would raising it more help, or do you all think it would make it worse?
Also, are there any nickel plated brass hotends out there? I've found those work perfectly on my previous printers. Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
Is anyone else having this issue on the .6mm nozzles?
I just got my U1, and have Questions.
In the 'Printing' options on the printer, there is an option, "Filament Auto Mapping." Is this turning on the RFID, or is it telling the printer to try to map the closest spool to the closest target?
In general, is there a user's guide to the printer's settings? The U1 wiki seems less than helpful.
I gotta say, I do like it, though!
They heard us!
https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker_u1/firmware/release_notes/v151
Thank you for the quick response and the hot fix Snapmaker!
I don’t have experience with maintenance/repair of printer at all. Maintenance is not an issue, I’m really and able to do. I want to be ready for base servicing in case it be needed.
I want to order next things:
- screw set
- 6mm tubes
- silicone socks
- cleaning brushes and parking pads
- usb cable
I’m thinking about extruder unit…
What is recommended to have to be ready for accidents?
I am running Orca Slicer 2.4.1, when slicing a multi color print and send it to the printer. When the U1 goes to do it's first tool change, the bed appears to go up a little and not down to clear the print and the tool head will crash into the prime tower. Has anyone experienced this issue? I did see a post a few weeks ago with someone having the exact same issue and I replied asking them if they resolved it with no response. Running Snapmaker Orca with the same print does not exhibit this issue.
These were printed face down. Can someone tell me how the black lines and smudges are there and how to get rid of them? I'm running 0.2mm nozzles and I've tried retraction distance and speed and some other things, but nothing seems to work. Thanks for any help.
Hello, im a college student who has been in 3D printing for a while now. I decided to upgrade from A1 to U1 this semester, which at the same time i cant place my machine in lab now as they are obtaining new equipments, so i can only put it in my room. There's a lot to consider: i am living in an ensuite off-campus, and it's a single 20 m² room. (I am living inside the same room with the machine)
- How loud is the machine? Search result shows around 50~60 dB, and i plan to add an IKEA top-cover and do the fan mod to reduce noise, is that enough to not disturb the neighbors? (My own sleep quality can be nullified since i fall asleep easily)
- Fumes and VOC, i will have an air purifier in my room for that, and try to place the machine near the window so i can vent out the toxic gas. Is that enough? I mostly print PLA+, and will try PETG for its glossy texture/support material, no ABS or ASA. I often do overnight print as well.
- Power usage seems less of a issue.
- I live at ground floor and placing the machine on the floor seems okay-ish.
- I will have to find a way to deal with moisture since it's almost always damp here. Is there any recommended dry box / filament box (as i have filament dryers) to cover up the filaments on the side of the machines? There's plenty of models online but i want to know what people use the most
- Safety issues.
Is there anything else? And most importantly, is this even a good idea?
(PLEASE i really like doing 3d printing and i do want it to be with me here :>)
