r/ender3v2

There's no end of posts here and elsewhere of someone shorting some wires on their Ender and killing things. Blowing a replaceable fuse is no big deal. Blowing a SMD fuse is a PITA and blowing a MCU sucks the big one.

I run a few external devices off my internal printer PSU and this is something I've been slack on but now that I've had a go as part of the rebuild it's proven quite simple to actually implement.

Mini blade fuses of appropriate size. Probably every auto shop in the world for higher amp ones, I went through E14 for lower rated ones - remember we're working at 24v so 1A is 24 watts! https://au.element14.com/littelfuse/0297002-wxnv/fuse-blade-2a-32v-fast-acting/dp/1677622

In what I am sure is total coincidence, the fuses have terminals 0.8mm thick and 2.7mm wide which just happens to be about the same size as smaller quick disconnect/faston fittings. I found mine in brass at a local electronics store labelled as "phone type crimp lugs".

https://au.element14.com/te-connectivity/150346-2/female-disconnect-2-8mm-24-20awg/dp/3133922

Add in a little clear heatshrink (clear = we can see if anything is going wrong underneath) and we now have peripheral power cables with safety current limitations. The package is fairly small so you can jam them in under the panels for internal PTO's too.

Hi, everyone, happy to see that the E3 V2 is’nt die and the comunity is still enthusiast.

I need some advice to maybe improve my old ender 3 v2 because i use it often but not that much so i don’t want to put all my money in it and i keep it because i don’t want to buy a brand new, this printer cost on marketplace around 60-70 euros so i really don’t want to buy new stuff or or buy things but on a budget.

Do you have some advice to improve it, here is what i already mounted :

-Full noctua fans
-Unitak 3D direct drive
-Hard bed springs with aluminium wheel
-PEI bed
-New original Hotend
-Capricorn style hose
-CR touch

I run the Mrisco firmware

I saw that the vibecoding make theses old printer a lot better but how do you do ? You make your own firmware ?

Il already plugged Claude code to Cura to improve prints but it’s not so impressive.

I print PLA/PETG/TPU

My goal is juste to have the most silent printer with good quality and easy to use, i just want to plug the sd card print and have the best quality and that’s it. It print good today but i think i can still improve it !

Thanks in advance for your advice

Thomas From France

Hello all,

I just got this new Comgrow PEI Sheet Magnetic Flexible Heated Bed, PEI Spring Steel 235x235mm

For my Ender 3 V2 running Marlin 2.1.3 MRiscoC, CREALITY New Sprite Extruder Pro, CRTouch

I did a print on it and it worked perfectly with SUNLU PLA+ WHITE, but I have tried 3 prints after and I can't get it to stay stuck to the plate.

I haven't changed any of the settings, I have washed it with Dawn and 91% ISO

Bed is set to 60, nozzle is set to 210,

I ran the tram wizard and redid the mesh leveling before each print after the first failed print.

What suggestions do you have

Last week I picked up my first 3d printer, an Ender 3 V2 fully stock with 4 rolls of filament for 90€, and I have to say it’s freaking amazing.

Online I red a lot about this printer and people where saying it’s terrible slow and you have to thinker with it with almost every print, but I kinda like it, gives you the feeling you’re really putting time into making something. Made some pretty decent prints, looked all clean to me. Also think I can improve the prints a lot if I sand them down and spray them with paint.

Anyway I wanted to know if there are some upgrades some of you might suggest, I heard about an auto bed levelling upgrade, that seems kinda reasonable. Looking for nothing to crazy but all suggestions are welcome!

Lots of free space for the air to flow now.

Time to get the old warhorse back in the saddle and ripping again. Going Kalico this time around because Klipper is just too straightforward and easy now.

Putting my $$$ where my mouth is too - bought one of the TZ-E3 v3.0 with unicorn styles nozzles to test against my venerable TZ-E3 v1.0 which had a press fitting fail after ~1200 hours of hot & fast printing.