u/egosumumbravir

There's no end of posts here and elsewhere of someone shorting some wires on their Ender and killing things. Blowing a replaceable fuse is no big deal. Blowing a SMD fuse is a PITA and blowing a MCU sucks the big one.

I run a few external devices off my internal printer PSU and this is something I've been slack on but now that I've had a go as part of the rebuild it's proven quite simple to actually implement.

Mini blade fuses of appropriate size. Probably every auto shop in the world for higher amp ones, I went through E14 for lower rated ones - remember we're working at 24v so 1A is 24 watts! https://au.element14.com/littelfuse/0297002-wxnv/fuse-blade-2a-32v-fast-acting/dp/1677622

In what I am sure is total coincidence, the fuses have terminals 0.8mm thick and 2.7mm wide which just happens to be about the same size as smaller quick disconnect/faston fittings. I found mine in brass at a local electronics store labelled as "phone type crimp lugs".

https://au.element14.com/te-connectivity/150346-2/female-disconnect-2-8mm-24-20awg/dp/3133922

Add in a little clear heatshrink (clear = we can see if anything is going wrong underneath) and we now have peripheral power cables with safety current limitations. The package is fairly small so you can jam them in under the panels for internal PTO's too.

Lots of free space for the air to flow now.

Time to get the old warhorse back in the saddle and ripping again. Going Kalico this time around because Klipper is just too straightforward and easy now.

Putting my $$$ where my mouth is too - bought one of the TZ-E3 v3.0 with unicorn styles nozzles to test against my venerable TZ-E3 v1.0 which had a press fitting fail after ~1200 hours of hot & fast printing.

Backside capacitor of what used to be a half decent i7-6950x. The 10 Broadwell-E cores are yearning to be free again.

Wish me luck. The coffee is kicking in and the workbench laid out...

Unicorn vomit generated by a little USB powered ESP32 running WLED and some old Corsair 140mm HD series fans.

Handily, since Home Assistant can tell WLED what to do AND read the status of the printer under it via the network, I can actually use the LEDs to communicate important stuff.

Have been doing a little work cleaning up the internal geometry and text on the K-Hub enclosure for multicolour printing and thinking about publishing it as a remix.

Just want to ensure it's within the license conditions to do so!

For reference: https://github.com/bigtreetech/K-Hub

PSU mounting bracket for old PC-xx series cases. I think Lian-Li used this basic design for like 15 years on many models.

Honestly I was surprised I couldn't find it already made.

Get it here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3072276-lian-li-pc-xx-power-supply-mounting-bracket#profileId-3458771

Built this in 2024 from the remains of an Ender3v2 hotrodding project so I can easily cold-pull / declog nozzles for my X1C.

Have made a few more for A & H series and P1 series owners since then.

Today I see this from BigTreeTech: https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-hotend-wizard

Structurally a bit different, same concept and they're not even subtle about ripping off the posts I made about "Swap in a spare hotend and keep printing" and "Repair hotends at your desk. Not inside a dark, cramped machine".

Didn't even get a courtesy rubber ducky 🦆 😭

For various reasons I've been attempting to determine a new workflow for dealing with media files and optimising storage requirements vs quality.

I've been comparing different settings and software - Fastflix for it's built in easy handling of HDR10+ & Dolby versus Handbrake. I'm far more interested in NVENC than CPU as the reasons I can't just pop out and buy a couple hundred TB of storage are the same reasons I can't just pop out and buy a TR 9995WX.

Anyway, as far as I know, both Handbrake and FastFlix are based on FFMPEG. Which in theory means that with the same settings, the outputs should be the same. However, analysis with FFMetrics v1.7 suggests something very different - Handbreak scores notably higher on VMAF for basically every bitrate, but also loses dramatically on PSNR, SSIM & XPSNR.

This has me thinking that HB is doing something under the hood that FF does not. I've been searching around to see if HB will tell me the FFMPEG command line it's doing without success. The resultant log file is pretty substantial, but I believe the relevant section from the encode log is this:

"Video": {
    "Encoder": "nvenc_h265_10bit",
    "Level": "auto",
    "Bitrate": 6000,
    "MultiPass": false,
    "Turbo": false,
    "ColorRange": 2,
    "ColorMatrixCode": 0,
    "Options": "",
    "Preset": "slower",
    "Profile": "auto",
    "HardwareDecode": 4
  }

Compare to the FF command line here:

NVEncC64.exe --avsw --device 0 -i TEST.1080p.SOURCE.mkv --video-metadata clear --metadata clear --chapter-copy -c hevc --vbr 6000 --bref-mode each --preset quality --tier high --lookahead 32 --no-aq --level auto --chromaloc auto --colorrange auto --colormatrix bt2020nc --transfer smpte2084 --colorprim bt2020 --master-display G(8500,39850)B(6550,2300)R(35400,14600)WP(15635,16450)L(10000000,1) --max-cll 0,0 --dhdr10-info copy --dolby-vision-rpu copy --dolby-vision-profile copy --output-depth 10 --multipass 2pass-full --mv-precision Auto --avsync cfr --audio-copy 1 --audio-metadata 1?language=eng --audio-disposition 1?default --tune uhq -o TEST.1080p.SOURCE-FFLIX_6000kbit.mkv

I'm hoping someone can offer me insights as to what I'm missing. AFIK, "slower" preset (HB) is equivalent to -P6 and "quality" preset (FF) is -P7. I've been using NVEncC over NVEnc in fastflix as it's been delivering better VMAF scores.