
Here’s the evolution of GPU size
Just in case if you are wondering, heres the evolution of GPU sizes. We’ve come a long way gamers!

Just in case if you are wondering, heres the evolution of GPU sizes. We’ve come a long way gamers!
Budget - £890
With the shown power supply - depending on the card, I will have to get the 12whpwr cable or the (6+2), (6+2) and (6+2) cable...(i threw them away when i built this pc)
I will be playing in 4k soon, so please let me know on your insight on these gpus!
I do some occasional blender (begginer as a hobby) and some capcut (once a week)
EDIT: made up my mind to go with the aurous rx 9070xt!
I wrote a free open-source Windows tool that turns compatible Sony headphones and earbuds into a head tracker for OpenTrack.
https://github.com/NicholasSlattery/sony-head-tracker
Sony built motion sensors into some of these headphones for spatial audio, but Windows doesn't normally use that data in a useful way. My app reads the head tracking sensor over the normal Bluetooth connection and sends yaw, pitch, and roll into OpenTrack.
I’ve tested it in Microsoft Flight Simulator, Elite Dangerous, and Assetto Corsa. Since it outputs through OpenTrack, it should work with 200+ PC games that support TrackIR, FreeTrack, or OpenTrack input.
A few additional games that have support are DCS World, Falcon BMS, Elite Dangerous, Star Citizen, iRacing, Euro Truck Simulator 2, American Truck Simulator, and more.
Confirmed working headphones so far:
Sony WH-1000XM5
Sony WF-1000XM5
Sony WH-1000XM6
Sony WF-1000XM6
Sony ULT WEAR / WH-ULT900N
Some LinkBuds models may also work, but I have not tested them yet.
Sadly, the WH-1000XM4 will not work because it doesn't have the sensors needed for gyro.
Edit: You can adjust the sensitivity so even if your screen is smaller you can fully look around without being unable to see the screen.
I'm happy to answer any questions about it.
Hey, need some help for bulk storage for games. Which one should i choose:
A. Classic Hard Disk Drive
B. SATA SSD
I'm trying to choose between a 2 - 4TB SATA SSD or a 2- 4TB HDD for 10+ year reliability. Which one should choose for this purpose?
I have recently bought a Lenovo Yoga 2 in 1 with Ryzen 7 AI 445 for work since it has a crisp oled. I wanted to try some gaming and it doesnt pull native FHD+ 60fps on games that I play but i've noticed that on 800p every game plays on 60+ fps. Is this resolution viable for this screen size?
I only have it plugged in via display port too.. wtf..
EDIT
For clarification, this is a fresh windows install, no apps for the monitor were installed I don't like those. That's why this surprised me so much. I installed Nvidia drivers, steam, firefox and that's it
EDIT 2
u/Pixel_Operative updated me that he found this as well on his PC. He found that it was added into his startup via the windows store, I went to check my start up and boom there it was. Added the same day his was July 4th... this is pretty ass I'm not going to lie. We are being pushed ads through the windows store from the monitors we buy now...
There are many tools out there claiming to help you "de-bloat" Windows 11. Some people swear by them, whereas some people don't trust them at all.
Now, if you're one of those people not wanting to switch to a different OS and not wanting to pirate the LTSC version or use a "de-bloat" tool, here are a few steps you can follow to remove all the unwanted apps and "ads" from non-LTSC SKUs.
PowerShell comes standard with a set of cmdlets that let you manage store apps. Third-party "de-bloat" guides on the Internet rarely mention them, but these potent cmdlets (PowerShell jargon for native commands) have been around since as far back as Windows 8 and are the native way to get the job done. For our purpose, we'll only need Get-AppxPackage and Remove-AppxPackage.
Before you jump right into PowerShell, hold your horses and read this paragraph first. Since Windows 11, Microsoft has introduced a new console host for text-mode applications that is also itself a store app, meaning that if you run cmd.exe or pwsh.exe by directly invoking it, it will open automatically inside this new console app. Though this won't cause too much of a problem, you'll likely end up having to run Remove-AppxPackage twice due to the console app getting closed and deleted by the command itself. If you would rather avoid that, open PowerShell per the following steps:
conhost powershell into the text box.Then you should see a PowerShell prompt inside the "legacy" console host.
Now, input the following command:
#> Get-AppxPackage -AllUsers | ForEach-Object `
{
$Package = $_
if ($Package.Name -notmatch "Microsoft\.DesktopAppInstaller" -and
$Package.Name -notmatch "Microsoft\.NET\.Native\.Framework" -and
$Package.Name -notmatch "Microsoft\.NET\.Native\.Runtime" -and
$Package.Name -notmatch "Microsoft\.StorePurchaseApp" -and
$Package.Name -notmatch "Microsoft\.VCLibs" -and
$Package.Name -notmatch "Microsoft\.WindowsStore" -and
$Package.Name -notmatch "Microsoft\.XboxIdentityProvider") `
{
try `
{
$Package | Remove-AppxPackage -AllUsers
}
catch {}
}
}
What this magical incantation does is that it takes all packages found by Get-AppxPackage, checks them one-by-one to see if its the Microsoft Store app or its dependencies, and, if not, the command attempts removal via Remove-AppxPackage. The try and catch surrounding the latter suppress all the scary error messages chiding you for trying to remove non-removable system packages.
How the command should look in PowerShell
Once that's done, everything that's a store app (including Copilot) will be done away with from the system for good. You'll notice even Game Bar and other supposedly non-removable apps will be gone. If you want them back, you'll have to download them manually from the app store.
Third-Party guides usually teach you how to do that for a single user only. If you want to disable Web Search for all accounts, run these two reg add commands in an elevated Command Prompt or PowerShell:
#> reg add HKLM\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Explorer
#> reg add HKLM\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Explorer /v DisableSearchBoxSuggestions /t REG_DWORD /d 1
This will put i) the Explorer subkey under HKLM\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows in the registry and ii) the DisableSearchBoxSuggestions DWORD under Explorer. If you want the modification done for just the current user instead, change HKLM to HKCU.
Every "ad" you see in stock Windows 11 is a notification from an app. Since OneDrive isn't a store app, you'll need to take care of it separately. In an elevated Command Prompt or PowerShell, run the following command:
#> C:\Windows\system32\OneDriveSetup.exe /uninstall
Once it's done, the OneDrive tray icon will disappear on its own, and the shortcut for it will also be gone from the Start Menu.
Windows has this thing called the "audit mode". The feature dates as far back as to Windows XP and is a nifty tool for when you need to install or customise a few things before setting up the first account.
To enter audit mode in a new install, just finish the initial installation process until you are shown the thing asking you for your region (it's called the "Out-of-Box Experience Wizard" or "OOBE Wizard" if you're curious). Press Ctrl + Shift + F3, then the system will reboot and take you straight to audit mode.
To enter audit mode in an existing install, run C:\Windows\system32\Sysprep\Sysprep.exe, then select "Enter System Audit Mode" and "Reboot" before pressing "OK".
Once you're there, you'll find yourself under the default "Administrator" account with a temporary profile. It's obviously not for general use, but if you want to do e.g. a registry hack to bypass online log-in, it's a useful thing to remember (though Shift + F10 for a Command Prompt is usually more preferable in this case).
Note that the only way to exit audit mode is to choose "Enter System Out-of-Box Experience" and reboot, which will force you to go through the entire OOBE song and dance whether your install is new or not. Also, under no circumstances should you choose "Generalize" unless you are prepping an install for a different machine or custom WIM files.
So i bought a long time ago one of those PC cases from AeroCool, the CS-107.
Thing is, the guy that built this for me made a mess, and even if he tried to hide the cables through the back of the case, he couldn't for some reason.
This is my first post on this community, any tips or pointing out if i'm doing something wrong would be helpful.
Tried to change my CPU cooler.
The CPU came right of with it. Appearantly when my Dad build this PC for me he slightly overdid it with the paste
If you were to be asked: Which inflation is worse between these two, then which would you pick? The time back when the mining period inflated the gpu prices or now when the AI era has led to artificial price increases of memory chips?
Spec:
CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X3D (8 cores/16 threads)
GPU: RX 9070 XT (16GB GDDR6)
RAM: 32GB (2x16) DDR5 6400MHz
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Trofeo Vision LCD RGB
Power Supply: 750W 80+ Gold
Storage: 1TB SSD M.2
Motherboard: ASUS B650 WiFi/Bluetooth
Case: BitFenix ATX RGB
You have to buy your SSD at 5 times the price of one year ago but hey, shareholders are getting wealthier!
Im curious what would ease the burden or fear of leaving your current os?
Hey guys I have a question.
Recently upgraded to a new cpu ryzen 7 7800x3d and put the arctic freezer 360 in there but I see the temps going all over the place when I do small task or when I game and it seems like the fans or the cooling throttles up and down instead of going at a consitent speed. Kinda seems like the cooler turns down and then temps spikes it spikes and then it goes down so the temps spike again and it goes up. Very inconsistent.
I did a stress test and it was all stable and fine but very rarely am I going to go at a consistent cpu usage.
I heard something about under underclocking the cpu or going into bios and changing the fan speed.
What should I do?