Hey, i have a problem with my top surface in my models, i print this model a lot and its always the same, the top layer in some places looks like under extrusion but not everywhere and i have calibrated the filament settings for that. some places look perfect and sam smaller prints do too and as yall can see te top part in the first image looks perfect

Printer: bambu lab P2S
Slicer: bambu slicer
Filament: bambu lab PLA MATTE
Speed and retraction are set as in standard preset 0.16 layer hight in Bambu slicer
Nozzle: 0.4

I would love some help.

I designed and printed this lamp body and the first time I printed it, it came out like I wanted, with just the ribbed body. Somehow during my various redesigns and prints, I made it so that it now always prints within an inner "wall" or "sleeve" that I don't want. I've tried repeatedly to recreate the first attempt (Shapr3D) but can't figure out what I've screwed up. I realize the shell thickness is different on the second one but I've tried over and over to adjust that and it never seems to make a difference. Any ideas?

TIA!

Chop

This is the top of the print, a star wand that you can insert a gift card. Why is the tip thinning out and not fully printing? I am focused on the top not printing, I paused the print trying to track the breakdown, that's why there's seams and some plastic threads.

Adventure 5M
Orca Slicer 2.4.2
Amolen PLA Silk Dual Color

My prints are not adhering to the bed in some zones. Any help?

Bambu A1

Bambu Slicer Settings:

• %20 infill, Cross Hatch
• 2 wall loops
• Strong tree support
• Alternate Extra wall
• Printed in PLA pro/plus (Last pictures are the filament settings nothing changed except I run flow calibiration on this filament recently)

Issues and Clarifications:

• I took the print apart but (like the second picture) it had already a clear cut line on the print before i took the print from print bed.
• as long as i am aware, there is no bed adhesion isssues.
• I saw a lot of "infill type" problems on other people. I was just wondering if cross hatch has the same problem or not?

EDIT: I have printed another print with 0.95 filament flow and adaptive cubic with 6 layer wall. It still has the same 1 layer skipped line where it gets cut

Hey Eveyone,

I have recently started to get some blobbing on the outside of my prints. Im using a bambu p2s and things have been generally fine.

The filament in question is bambu pla Grey. I've noticed this effect but to a lesser degree with using bambu petg cf.

I have been doing the scarf seam. One thing I noticed was wall generator was classic istrad of aranche. Im not sure how much of a difference this would make but also curious if there are any other things people might suggest.

Lastly, im using an AMS 2 set up, current humidity is 36% but generally is around 25% and I havent done a full drying cycle yet. Im less likely concern3d this is the issue given the petg is preforming better (also in the AMS) and this seems to be a repeated artifact on the print.

Appreciate all of your assistance in advance!

Started a small print before I went to work and came home to this. Somehow the filament just like oozed around the nozzle and the silicone heat guard. You can even see that the filament when up into the casing at least some(see it in the back?). Where do I even start to fix this and what caused it in the first place?

These rings are appearing around my prints in no particular direction, happens both with and without infill, printer is stacker s4, orca slicer, pla, 220 C nozzle, 55C bed

Hello everyone, I am trying to calibrate my pla filament. I am following Factorian Designs' calibration tutorial. And I am at the max flow rate calibration step. I use Orca Slicers default calibration tools.

I know I have high speed filament so I wanted to start the test at lowest: 15 mm/s flow and highest 35mm/s flow. After setting the calibration and slicing I check my print speed and it seem too low to me. The reason is even with default low flow rates (12 mm/s I guess) I was able to print higher than 150 mm/s speed but now with testing 35 mm/s flow it only prints with 182 mm/s speed.

Considering that bambu studios default printing speed is 200 mm/s which I use generally, isn't 182 mm/s test speed too low for this test to replicate real printing situations. Am I missing something?

Hello! I am printing with my Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2. I have had some successful prints, but I seem to have trouble dialing it in. I am attaching the current issue I'm having along with all the settings. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

Finally got my first gen core one put together today and it’s consistently doing what it shows in the video when it Ty to print something.

I tried to print the keychain, says gcode isn’t compatible but looks ok anyways.

Does the think in the front right corner for about 2 min then goes to “printer collision detected” with a homing message.

I’m not sure what to do. I did all the calibrations.

Please help!

Please help, bought old Ender 5 and can't make it work. PLA.

Model: 20×20×20 mm calibration cube. 10 print cycles, 2026-05-05. Slicer: Ultimaker Cura 5.12.1. Extruder: Trianglelab Matrix (Direct Drive), firmware Marlin 2.0.7.2, board BTT SKR Mini E3.

#	Nozzle/Bed °C	Print speed	First layer	Adhesion	Cooling fan	What changed / result
001	200/50	50 mm/s	~40 mm/s	none	—	Z-offset not set, filament not sticking → cancelled
002	200/50	50 mm/s	40→20 mm/s	none	—	Bed 50°C > filament max (45°C) → front corners lifted. Cube detached
003	200/45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	brim 5mm	—	Bed lowered to 45°C, brim added — print cancelled due to layer shift (unrelated to corners)
004–005	200/45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	brim 5mm	—	Motor/homing failures, never reached printing
006	190/45	—	—	—	—	Cancelled immediately (Z-offset corrupted after leveling)
007	190/45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	skirt (no brim)	standard	No brim — cube shifted. Back corners lifted (worst at back-right) — cause: mesh compensation raises nozzle at the back (+0.25–0.275mm) → weaker first-layer squish there
008	190/45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	brim 8mm	standard	Brim fixed bed adhesion. But top corners curled upward — insufficient cooling on upper layers. Print completed
009	190/45	60 mm/s, 0.2mm layer	20 mm/s	brim 8mm	standard (100%)	Print speed increased — top corners still curling, nozzle caught a raised corner and ripped the cube off the bed

Cycle	Nozzle, °C	Bed, °C	Print speed	First layer	Layer height, mm	Adhesion	Fan
001	200	50	50 mm/s	~40 mm/s	—	none	—
002	200	50	50 mm/s	40→20 mm/s	—	none	—
003	200	45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	—	brim 5mm	—
004–005	200	45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	—	brim 5mm	—
006	190	45	—	—	—	—	—
007	190	45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	—	skirt	100% (S255)
008	190	45	40 mm/s	20 mm/s	—	brim 8mm	100% (S255)
009	190	45	60 mm/s	20 mm/s	0.2	brim 8mm	100% (S255)

Key pattern across cycles

1. 002: bed temp above filament spec (50 vs 45°C) → front corners lifted.
2. 007: no brim, mesh compensation raises the nozzle at the back corners → weaker first-layer adhesion there specifically.
3. 008–009: once brim solved bed adhesion, a different cause appeared — top corners lifting (not the first layer!), consistent with classic warping from uneven cooling/shrinkage, possibly worsened by the 60 mm/s speed.

Corner lifting in this series comes from two distinct mechanisms:

• early cycles (002, 007) — first-layer/adhesion problem (bed temp, brim, mesh leveling),
• later cycles (008–010) — top corners curl up after the part is already anchored to the bed, consistent with classic warping from uneven cooling/shrinkage, not bed detachment.

Printing on a new p1s in petg, I dried the filament for around 15 hours before use

Hello All,
I heated up a bambu Pet G white filament in sunlu for over 30 to 40 min and took it out when the temp was around 90 ish and humidity around 20% put it to my AMS which is connected to bambu A1 mini. I have the cool BQ plate which was helping me a lot. The nozzle is the stock one which has like 12 to 20 hrs. I heated the nozzle to 255 to make sure there is nothing on the sides or inside. 20 min into printing the whole petg filament made a clog. The sad part is it all over the nozzle and the whole assembly around it. I had this printer for over a month and this is my first major issue. Any help is appreciated.

I am having issues with gunk when I change filament rolls. I've got a Flashforge AD5M and to do multicolor, I insert pauses in the slicer and change the roll. Previous color and new color poop.

For some reason, huge piece of gunk always forms. Same seems to be true with first layer. Notice some with PLA, but really apparent with TPU. Roll is dried properly in a dryer and mount above to feed direct into extruder

Most of my prints ok, except for like a letter or so in this example.

Is there a gcode command to extrude out a line right after pause? It always does that at very beginning of prints. Thank you!