r/3DprintingHelp

Why PETG specifically have bad tolerances
▲ 4 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

Why PETG specifically have bad tolerances

I am fairly new to 3D printing, as the Creator 5 Pro is my first printer.

Recently I calibrated my filaments - PLA , ASA , PETG.

I used this youtube guide - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVU5If1VsAM

For both PLA and ASA the results were BIG improvements in both the visual aspect and functional (tolerances)

However, for PETG, even though visually it seems perfect now - the tolerances are off.

Trying to fit bolts and nuts printed in the calibrated PLA and ASA works flawlessly.

However the PETG ones looks great but never fit.

I do not understand why.

EDIT: additional context

I printed the Orca Cube in Orca slicer. The cube dimensions are perfect (30x30x30mm) But the screw at the bottom only fits halfway, and then it is stuck. When printed in ASA or PLA it fits. cube dimensions are the same. Used digital calipers to measure. The screw from the ASA and PLA cubes fits the PETG cube, so the problem is the threads on the PETG screw/s

u/noplans777 — 13 hours ago
▲ 181 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

PLA in 109° heat and direct sunlight

This was a place marker for the grave of our Chinchilla named Door. (Yes, Door). It’s been out for a while with no problems. It’s direct PLA at 25% infill, but 109° finally got the best of her! The last image was before it went out, and the only coating was a light finish.

I think longevity I may just go for wood.

u/ArtistApart — 1 day ago

What am I trying to do?

*Edit* probably should have titled this as “Is There Something Other Than Reliefs?” Because that’s all I can think of that would somewhat work but it really doesn’t.

So I have this project of taking a shadow box and making a city/town scape with a twinkling night time sky background. I want to 3D print some shop fronts and maybe a clock tower or a church with some of the windows printed thin enough for some light to come through. Obviously I can’t print a whole building and fit it into the shadow box, I just want the profile. I tried making them in reliefs in Bambu Studio but I get a background and I don’t know how to get rid of it. I want to print one store/building front at a time and I don’t want a background. I haven’t been 3d printing for long and I’m kind of going off on the deep end trying to do this. I also don’t have any other 3d modeling programs other than Bambu Studio so if anyone has any suggestions that are free or worth investing in for a broke beginner I would greatly appreciate it.

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u/Over_Significance627 — 18 hours ago
▲ 2 r/3DprintingHelp+2 crossposts

Anyone else experiencing a sudden drop in print quality?

I’ve been back and forth with a “support” ticket for weeks now. My x1 has been performing great for over a year, and it’s suddenly had failure after failure. No matter where I’m printing from - the app or desktop software. Custom settings or published, well-reviewed profiles, my own models or random fidgets and benchys. Bambu keeps asking me to level the bed, rum calibration, or switch the filament. None of which have helped.

pics here

It’s gotta be a problem with the firmware or the machine itself. This filament has been dried before use and this exact roll has performed very well in the past. I’m well out of warranty so no hope of a replacement, and it’s clear the real fix is not going to come from their customer service team. Anybody have this experience recently? I feel like one of the recent bajillion updates and beta versions has to be the culprit.

▲ 4 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

Need some help with PETG printing

Set up:

flashforge adventurer 5m (2nd hand found in recycle room at apartment complex and seemed fine until I started using PETG)

0.4mm nozzle new

Inland PETG+

nozzle temp 250C

Bed temp 80

Orca slicer

Inland filament dryer set to 50C With RH OF 14-20%

I have been trying to figure out this material for a week and im not sure what to do i initially thought it was a feed issue or a speed issue but after slow everything down a bit. Im still getting blobs forming around the nozzle during initial layer printing. As well as the layer getting printed is rough maybe poor adhesion.

I kept also having failures on the temp tower calibration print from orca after 245 it would bird nest and then completely fail.

I adjusted the z axis from 0.025mm to 0.050mm

Here are the photos I have of the issues. Any advice is appreciated or some good sources to use to learn how to dial in materials would be huge.

On Inland PLA is have no issues with the presets in orca or printables. Just seems to be having an issue with the petg.

Im trying to print a corner shelf so I wanted to try going with a more durable polymer

I will update after this test run with the modified z height.

Also are they any good recommended calibration prints or calibration that I should have done after getting this printer that could be effecting it.

u/mudjugmoe — 1 day ago
▲ 1 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

Necklace 3d print issue

Hey all! I'm having some trouble with a print I used AI to convert to a STL. The print looks pretty good, but there's some rough edges, and the print didn't come out exactly as designed. Is there a quick way to fix some of the impurities, or make the pendant more accurate to the hype chains? Settings are .4mm nozzle, PLA Bambu filament, four colors only, normal speed with supports and generated settings from Bambu. Also sliced from Bambu. Using a Bambu P2S with AMS 2 pro.

https://makerworld.com/models/3011303?appSharePlatform=copy

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u/buckeyestilidie — 1 day ago
▲ 5 r/3DprintingHelp+2 crossposts

Anycubic Kobra 2 Max - Left side too high, right side too low, center perfect. I’m running out of ideas.

• Anycubic Kobra 2 Max
• PLA
• Anycubic slicer
• Bed heated during leveling and printing
• Auto Level and system calibration performed multiple times.

My first layer is inconsistent across the bed.
Left side = nozzle too far from the bed (poor adhesion)
Center = almost perfect
Right side = nozzle too close (over-squished)
The center of the bed prints beautifully, but the left and right don’t match.
The issue causes small parts to fail. In the fishing lure print I’m attaching, one or two pieces eventually come loose, get caught by the nozzle, and ruin the entire print.
Things I’ve already tried
Rotated the PEI sheet 180° (problem stayed in the exact same location)
Multiple Auto Levels
Multiple Position Calibrations
Re-dialed Z-offset many times
Heated the printer before leveling
Checked that the print head returns to the same resting position
Checked for obvious bed wobble
Measured the X-gantry and found it was slightly out of sync
Removed the top synchronization belt and adjusted the gantry to make both sides more even
Re-ran Position Calibration and Auto Level afterward
Adjusting the gantry did improve the first-layer test, but it still isn’t consistent enough to reliably print multiple small parts.
My question
Has anyone had this exact issue on a Kobra 2 Max?
Does this look like:
X-gantry still out of sync?
LeviQ mesh/probe issue?
Bed carriage or eccentric wheel problem?
Calibration module issue?
Something else?
I’m trying to figure out what to inspect next instead of randomly adjusting parts.
Thanks in advance—I’m open to any ideas.

u/UpwardEndeavor — 3 days ago
▲ 1 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

.2mm printing not adhering to plate

I’m new to 3d printing but I’ve had a decent amount of success with the .4mm nozzle in my A1 using PLA Matte filament, doing a lot of one click prints and a few things I’ve adapted myself on bambu studio. I’ve changed the nozzle to a .2mm, cleaned the plate, used the new untouched side, set the prints up in bambu studio using the 0.06 high quality @ BBL A1 0.2mm nozzle setting, that has 16mm/s initial layer speed, 28mm/s initial layer infill speed and has auto support trees but I’ve had to abandon two prints in two days as it releases from the print bed and/or becomes a stringy mess; am I doing something obviously wrong? Or is there something I can do to solve the problem? I’m trying to get some high quality terrain pieces sorted and the print times are three to four days, I’m worried I’m going to keep finding in a trashed state. (I did another lot yesterday, which I didn’t take pictures of; different prints, all released and flopped around the plate) - any help would be appreciated!

u/lg-adams — 3 days ago

How would you print this

I am trying to print a very tall and thin object. I went with 0.08 layers and speeds of around 30, 10 for the outer walls.

Should i design some kind of support to stop it from wobling on the higher levels?

Printing at an angle or on the side makes the legs impossible to detach from the supports because of how thin they are.

How would you print this?

Ender 3 v3 SE

Resin plate

AzzureFilm PLA

205°C/60°C

0.08mm

u/Working_Cellist_5412 — 4 days ago
▲ 2 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

PETG Won’t Stick

I have tried to print a couple of prints with PETG on my Kobra and the first layer doesn’t stick.
Any suggestions on bed heat range?

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u/DrabGeneral — 3 days ago

mY 3D printer isn't printing correctly.

Ok so, my 3d printer has printed pretty good as seen in one of the photos, but ever since that print it just hasn't been working properly. The filament just curls up and bunches up on the nozzle. It has been doing this for a week already, I have no idea what's going on, I made sure the bed was leveled, its the correct temperature, and the nozzle isn't clogged because it extrudes properly. I'll add a video and some photos so you can see what I'm seeing. Please help me. I have a Elegoo neptune 4 max, i'm printing with Petg in the photos with the white filament and the red silk filament is Silk PLA. (I put the photos and video in that one video because for some reason I can’t post videos and photos together)

u/Wise-Ideal-3410 — 3 days ago

Armor piece failed twice

This is a segment of a chest plate, I’ve added a 5mm brim and I printed it once with auto supports and it failed, then failed again when I drew the supports. Both spaghetti failures, I wanted to provide a pic for reference. (The brims aren’t in this photo but this is what the auto support tree looks like on the part) it should be noted I managed to print the part just fine like this but the mirroring part is what is failing

u/King-N0thing — 4 days ago
▲ 2 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

Need Help with PETG

Hey everyone, i need some advice on printing PETG. my first 2 prints came out great but im trying to make a riser with adjustable vents for my K1C and it refuses to print well and im not sure if its settings or wet filament as i left it out for about a day as i was building my dry box. here are my questions

  1. what temps do you run ( i ran 250c nozzle 70c bed and i try to keep the chamber below 35 to avoid heat creap.

  2. what temps do heat creap concerns you,

  3. what other settings do i need to look at or consider for petg to print good.

im completely new to this space especially with PETG so any advice is extremely helpfull.

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u/Thenascarguy2017 — 3 days ago
▲ 5 r/3DprintingHelp+2 crossposts

Print keeps clogging at this spot every time I've tried printing it (Flashforge adventurer 5m pro)

This print keeps clogging at the same spot every time I try to print it and I don't know why, Is this a common issue with this printer and how would I fix it

lmk if I need to share more of my settings

u/SignificantDouble912 — 4 days ago

3d print failing

Does anyone know why this is failing like this? I printed this exact print a day before without issue.

It’s PLA on a Sovol SV06

u/MikeWalsh1240 — 4 days ago
▲ 7 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

Missing section/layer adhesion issue?

Saturn 4 Ultra - Same print succeeded once, then failed on second attempt. Any ideas?
I’m trying to diagnose a failed print on my Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra.
Printer:
Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra
Anycubic Water-Wash Resin+ V3
Settings:
Layer height: 0.05 mm
Normal exposure: 2.5 seconds
Bottom exposure: 35 seconds
Default Saturn 4 Ultra settings otherwise (tilting vat, so no lift speed settings)
The model:
Large ruined building wall.
I added my own supports.
The model is solid (not hollow).
The issue:
The lower half of the print came out perfectly. Around halfway through, the rest of the model detached and ended up cured onto the PFA film. The model somehow continued to print and cover the failed area. The printer continued printing the upper section, but near the failure point some resin was stuck to the film.
The important part is that I printed this exact same model immediately beforehand with the exact same supports, orientation, resin, and settings, and it printed perfectly. Nothing in the slicer changed between prints.
After the failure, there was a cured section attached to the PFA where the missing half should have been.
I’m wondering what could cause a one-off failure like this when the previous print was perfect.

u/Parking-Pomelo-8526 — 5 days ago

3D print failure

I have this armor chest plate I’m printing, I’ve sliced it into four parts to fit my printer. This is the my bottom right piece, I had to enable supports. I have four walls, five top shell layers and 3 bottom shell layers. 0.2mm layer height and a 0.4mm nozzle. Pretty much all settings are default except for the number of walls which I doubled to make 4. Any thought on how this happened

u/King-N0thing — 5 days ago

Help!

I have an A1 mini and some of my prints have been turning out like this. At first I thought it was a clogged nozzle and I couldn’t unclog it so I got a new nozzle. After a few prints it started doing this. I changed some of the support settings to make them stronger but it still didn’t work. Anyone got any ideas?

u/HeavyMammoth3695 — 4 days ago
▲ 1 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

Layer shifting problems on the Bambu A1

Hello, I had recently made a part and am having layer shifting problems. The belts are tight and the the only thing that seems off is the head can twist slightly to the left and the right (it could be like that on purpose but idk). I also greased the belts and did all I could. Any tips? Or if it’s not layer shifting what could it be?
Im using pla, bambu A1, AMS Lite, 100% speed.

u/Personal_Month_8680 — 4 days ago
▲ 2 r/3DprintingHelp+1 crossposts

Resin Print Failing, looks like supports go missing mid way up

Hello,

I am new here and need some advice. I am printing a DnD Mini and it looks like mid way up the model the supports go missing. My next step is to replace the FEP but it only has about 12k uses (According the the Elegoo Mars 5 self-test) and is the film that came preinstalled in the Elegoo Mars 5, so before I waste any more resin I was hoping to get some advice on if the FEP film is really the next logical step or if there are any changes I need to make. Here are my specs, and I have attached screen shots of the print in the slicer and the print setting, as well as the print result.

- Printer: Elegoo Mars 5
- Resin: Elegoo Clear Blue Water Washable ABS-Like
- Room Temperature
- Slicer: Chitubox
- Toubleshooting taken so far: I have tried decreasing the lift speed, increasing the exposure time and increasing the thickness and depth of my supports

Failed Print

Chitubox Print Settings

Print in Slicer

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u/Berzzer — 5 days ago