u/ClandestinePleb

Hello all,

I need to adapt my Polymaker Dry-Boxes so that they may feed directly into my FF Creator 5 Pro. It seems that Polymaker designed their Dry-Boxes with tubing that is much wider than the standardized tubing I have ever seen on either my FF AD5M-Pro or FF Creator 5 Pro.

I need maximum sealing, as the filaments I print with daily are extremely hydroscopic. The filaments may also sit in these dry boxes for months at a time in a very humid climate, depending on my work orders.

Also, how do you go about keeping the filament strands being fed between the printer and Dry-Boxes dry? As said, these filaments may sit hooked up to the printer for months at a time.

What is the absolute most air-tight solution here?

Hello all,

I have had some trigger/hammer pin walking issues regarding my and my friend's Super Safety, ARC Fire V2, Kabuto, and cassette style trigger setups. I keep seeing " anti-walk pins " mentioned online, which would seem to resolve the issue; however, I also see many mentions of " anti-walk & anti-rotation pins. " Upon further research into the anti-walk & anti-rotation pins, it seems the consensus is split about 50/50 whether the anti-rotation effect is substantially beneficial, or actually detrimental due to increased friction/drag reducing the reliability of FRT/FRD setups and accelerating wear.

What are your experiences and recommendations?

I am currently considering Rise Armament anti-walk pins, Wilson Combat anti-walk pins, Strike Industries anti-walk & anti-rotation pins, Elftmann Tactical anti-walk & anti-rotation pins, and KNS Precision anti-walk & anti-rotation pins.

Hello all,

I have had some trigger/hammer pin walking issues regarding my and my friend's Super Safety, ARC Fire V2, Kabuto, and cassette style trigger setups. I keep seeing " anti-walk pins " mentioned online, which would seem to resolve the issue; however, I also see many mentions of " anti-walk & anti-rotation pins. " Upon further research into the anti-walk & anti-rotation pins, it seems the consensus is split about 50/50 whether the anti-rotation effect is substantially beneficial, or actually detrimental due to increased friction/drag reducing the reliability of FRT/FRD setups and accelerating wear.

What are your experiences and recommendations?

I am currently considering Rise Armament anti-walk pins, Wilson Combat anti-walk pins, Strike Industries anti-walk & anti-rotation pins, Elftmann Tactical anti-walk & anti-rotation pins, and KNS Precision anti-walk & anti-rotation pins.

I recently installed a Super Safety. Upon dry function testing ( my only option until my ammo arrives, ) it seems to not work as intended. I may be misunderstanding something as this is my first installation. Any and all help is appreciated. Snob comments regarding this dedicated range toy project will be disregarded.

JTS M12AR, JTS M12AR Lever Sleeve + BCG Trip kit + Buffer Spacer from Tharpe Gunworks, Steel Super Safety + Trigger Kit from Glock Plates, KAW 10 OZ Carbine Dead Blow Buffer, Pantheon Arms Flat Wire Carbine Buffer Spring, Generic Brand Anti-Walk Anti-Rotation Trigger/Hammer Pins, Valvoline Grey Full Synthetic Moly Fortified on all contact surfaces.

The issue is as follows:

I rack the charging handle fully and release it.

I switch to super safety mode.

I pull the trigger, it fires, and I maintain pressure on the trigger.

I cycle the bolt all the way to the rear.

I release the bolt, and the bolt slams all the way forward, pushing my finger forward while I am maintaining pressure on the trigger.

My finger is now in the " reset " position while I am maintaining pressure on the trigger.

The trigger will no longer depress or fire again unless I release my finger from the trigger and cycle the gun without depressing the trigger at all, then depress it again and fire.

This issue seems to be mitigated if I only maintain very light pressure on the trigger throughout the entire process, allowing the trigger to reset and be depressed/fired continuously. However, this " fix " has not seemed very consistent and seems to be a quirk.

I recently installed a Super Safety. Upon dry function testing ( my only option until my ammo arrives, ) it seems to not work as intended. I may be misunderstanding something as this is my first installation. Any and all help is appreciated. Snob comments regarding this dedicated range toy project will be disregarded.

JTS M12AR, JTS M12AR Lever Sleeve + BCG Trip kit + Buffer Spacer from Tharpe Gunworks, Steel Super Safety + Trigger Kit from Glock Plates, KAW 10 OZ Carbine Dead Blow Buffer, Pantheon Arms Flat Wire Carbine Buffer Spring, Generic Brand Anti-Walk Anti-Rotation Trigger/Hammer Pins, Valvoline Grey Full Synthetic Moly Fortified on all contact surfaces.

The issue is as follows:

I rack the charging handle fully and release it.

I switch to super safety mode.

I pull the trigger, it fires, and I maintain pressure on the trigger.

I cycle the bolt all the way to the rear.

I release the bolt, and the bolt slams all the way forward, pushing my finger forward while I am maintaining pressure on the trigger.

My finger is now in the " reset " position while I am maintaining pressure on the trigger.

The trigger will no longer depress or fire again unless I release my finger from the trigger and cycle the gun without depressing the trigger at all, then depress it again and fire.

This issue seems to be mitigated if I only maintain very light pressure on the trigger throughout the entire process, allowing the trigger to reset and be depressed/fired continuously. However, this " fix " has not seemed very consistent and seems to be a quirk.

Hello all,

I need a filament dryer that reaches 110 C, fits at least 4x 1KG Spools, and can feed directly into my Flash Forge Creator 5 Pro.

The closest thing I could find is the Sunlu E2, however it seems to only fit 2x 1KG Spools.

I know there have been capacity modifications for the Sunlu S4 wherein it holds 8x 1KG Spooks rather than the standard 4x. Is there anything similar for the Sunlu E2...?

Is there also perhaps an existing filament dryer that fits my needs but I haven't found yet...?

Hello all,

I have a Flash Forge Creator 5 Pro that I need to insulate as much as possible.

In summary, there is no other option than to run the printer in a small room with a strong portable dual hose portable AC unit, wherein the room's temperature is typically 61 F.

I want to mitigate the risk of the AC's cold air warping my ASA/PC/PA/PPS/PPA prints, and I want to mitigate the risk of the printer's hot air heating up the small room too much. How can I most effectively insulate the printer's heat while retaining easy operation? I assume the insulating enclosures on Amazon are not effective enough for this situation...?

I also plan to set up an exhaust tube/vent that vents the printers' fumes outside. However, there is only one window in the room. How can I safely vent both the dual AC and the printer out the same window so that the toxic fumes don't just get sucked back inside through the AC's vents?

Hello,

I am looking to get the most wear resistant Grease for my Super Safety and ARC Fire V2 that will both see heavy usage. Valvoline Cobalt #2 seems like the absolute strongest option, but does anyone know if the bright blue dye or any of its other additives will harm a firearms finish? I am unsure how it will interact with bluing, anodizing, cerakote, or paint.

Hello,

I am looking to throw FRT's into my JTS AR-12 and ATI AR-15.

I am unsure whether to go with a Super Safety, Kabuto, Disruptor, ARC-FIRE V2, or Super Selektor? 3 Position is mandatory, and I am not a big fan of push-button selection.

I just don't know which one is really the most reliable in practice?

I already have a KAW 10 OZ Dead Blow Buffer, Pantheon Flat Wire Buffer Spring, which I think should universally help reliability with any FRT.

Hello all,

​

I am currently designing 85 Liter and 155 Liter air tight containers that utilize both active hot air circulation and dessicant beads. This will hopefully more thoroughly dry severely hydroscopic filaments in long-term storage, quicker.

​

I am dead set on this combination, so I will not just one or the other.

​

My question is, what would best fulfill my need for hot air circulation? I was originally considering a " Bridea smart gun safe dehumidifier, " However, it seems to be very weak. I am reading online that many people use pre-built " Fan + PTC Element " devices off of Amazon. What style would be best, 100W, 200W, 400W, 600W, etc? I am also reading that it should be plugged into a dimmable thermostat?

​

I also considered just mounting a creality chamber heater inside, but it is kinda expensive to do across multiple containers.

Hello all,

​

I am currently designing 85 Liter and 155 Liter air tight containers that utilize both active hot air circulation and dessicant beads. This will hopefully more thoroughly dry severely hydroscopic filaments in long-term storage, quicker.

​

I am dead set on this combination, so I will not just one or the other.

​

My question is, what would best fulfill my need for hot air circulation? I was originally considering a " Bridea smart gun safe dehumidifier, " However, it seems to be very weak. I am reading online that many people use pre-built " Fan + PTC Element " devices off of Amazon. What style would be best, 100W, 200W, 400W, 600W, etc? I am also reading that it should be plugged into a dimmable thermostat?

​

I also considered just mounting a creality chamber heater inside, but it is kinda expensive to do across multiple containers.