Today I got an ad for a crowdfunding campaign for a quad independent extruder (IQEX?) printer using linear motors instead of belts. It looks impressive, but also ridiculous. IDEX printers are already pretty niche, is this really better than a tool changer? Or even the IDEX tool changer that sovol is crowdfunding? Thoughts? Its definitely intriguing, but I'm not going to put any money on it. Honestly the thing I'm most interested by is the liner motors. Has it been done before? Is it a good idea?

My son loves it !!

I’m trying to print something out of silver pla silk from sunlu and I’ve been using inner to outer wall order on Bambu studio because it’s the default. But I didn’t like how visible the layer lines were so I tried outer to inner order for walls. The layer lines were definitely much less visible but I got these weird dimples all over the face of the print. The edge where the z seam was aligned is also really oddly jagged and wavy. Anyone know the problem? I’ve never seen this problem with inner to outer wall order.

Printer: Bambu P2S
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Filament: Sunlu silk pla+ silver
Settings (mostly default besides these):
Nozzle temp: 220c
Wall Speed: 40 mm/s
Outer to inner wall order

I bought this for my son he has autism and he loves sirens. I’m thinking about buying a 3D printer to print these my self. Any advise on what 3D printer I should get to print something like this? I have 0 knowledge on the matter. Looking for something that is not astronomical expensive

I've been playing around with the Core One INDX (Founder Edition) and testing PrusaSlicer's Full Spectrum / ColorMix feature, and I ran into a problem pretty quickly (one that the channel that inspired this — Josh from 3D Revolution with his Primed3D tool — had already solved for painting models from scratch).

There are tons of great painted multicolor models out there (Prinntables, MakerWorld, ...). PrusaSlicer 2.9+ can actually read the Bambu painting directly — but the paint indices just point at "filament 1, 2, 3…" of your profile. So if you want to print one of these with Full Spectrum, you first have to figure out the right color blends yourself, create every virtual extruder by hand, and then remap all the colors. Every single time.

I figured that could be automated. So I built PaintPort.

What it does:

- You drop in a painted 3MF

- You tell it which spools you actually have loaded (presets for CMY / WCMY / KCMY / WKCMY / WKCMYRGB, or set your own slot colors)

- It maps every model color to your closest spool — and for colors you don't have, it automatically builds the closest ColorMix blend (the ratios PrusaSlicer's Full Spectrum engine supports)

- It spits out a ready-to-go 3MF with everything preconfigured: painting remapped, virtual extruders created, slot colors set

How to use it:

1. Open PaintPort (link below — or download the single HTML file from GitHub and double-click it)

2. Drag in your painted 3MF

3. Pick a preset or enter your spool colors, hit Auto-map, review the blends

4. Export

5. Open the file in PrusaSlicer 2.9.6+ as a project (File → Open — this matters, otherwise PrusaSlicer silently drops the virtual extruders!)

The important bits:

- 100% free and open source (AGPL-3.0)

- Runs entirely locally in your browser — no uploads, no server, no tracking. It's literally one HTML file, works offline

- Big credit to Josh / 3D Revolution — his Primed3D tool (for painting models in the browser) was the inspiration and proved this whole approach works

- Fair warning: the blend color predictions are an approximation, and ColorMix itself is still experimental territory — check the preview before you commit to a 20-hour print 🙂

Try it: https://perspektive3d.github.io/paintport/

Source: https://github.com/perspektive3D/paintport

Model used in the example: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2569480-pikachu-rayquaza-poncho-multicolor-figure#profileId-2832187

Would love feedback — especially from other INDX owners: which spool combos are you running, and are the auto-generated blends close enough for you?

Hi everyone 👋

I'd like to share my very first 3D design project.

I'm from Ukraine, and because of the war we still experience power outages from time to time. I'm a freelancer on Upwork, so staying online isn't just about convenience - it's how I make a living 🥲

That's what inspired this project. Instead of buying another power bank, I decided to design and build my own portable power station. I wanted it to be functional, but I also wanted it to look like an actual product instead of just another rectangular box 👀

I've never done any 3D modeling before. After watching a few YouTube tutorials and going through plenty of trial and error, this is what I came up with.

I printed the first prototype on my Bambu Lab A1 🌚, and the print took almost 20 hours🗿🗿🗿

Ironically, long prints are also a challenge here because a power outage can ruin the entire print before it's finishes.

The design is built around a dual 100W USB-C PD board and four 20Ah cells. I also left some extra room inside the enclosure in case testing shows it needs better airflow or a heatsink.

I'd really appreciate any feedback, suggestions, or constructive criticism.

Does anything about the design immediately stand out as a potential problem?

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share an Android-exclusive app I’ve been developing called SpoolTap. It’s designed specifically for 3D printing hobbyists who want a faster, more reliable way to manage their filament inventory without relying on messy spreadsheets or locked proprietary ecosystems.

💡 What is SpoolTap?

SpoolTap turns your Android phone into an NFC-based filament scanner. Instead of manually typing in weights and material types every time you swap a roll, you can log, update, and check your inventory with a single tap.

✨ Key Features & Benefits

• NFC Scanning for Supported Spools: Directly read and log data from filament manufacturers that already embed NFC tags in their spools.
• Custom NFC Tag Writing: If you use standard third-party spools, you can write and link your own inexpensive NTAG stickers to any spool in your digital inventory.
• Comprehensive Inventory Management: Keep a clear overview of your materials (PLA, PETG, ABS, etc.), exact colors, remaining weights, and manufacturer details.
• Native Android Experience: Built from the ground up to feel fast, modern, and intuitive on Android devices.

🎯 My Feedback Goals

As I continue to refine the app, I am looking for constructive feedback from the community on two specific areas:

1. NFC Compatibility: If you use spools with built-in NFC tags, how does the reading experience feel, and are there specific manufacturer tags you'd like to see better supported?
2. Workflow & UI: Is the process of adding a new spool and updating its remaining weight quick enough for your daily printing workflow?

🚀 Download

SpoolTap is available on the Google Play Store: 👉Get SpoolTap on Google Play

Thank you for reading, and I look forward to your thoughts and constructive feedback!

I designed this mechanical expanding spinning top and I think it's great fun and wanted to share it!

It's free on makerworld @unfadable

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3018451-mechanical-expanding-spinning-top-v2#profileId-3391039

Now what smh

pessoal, calibrei minha máquina, estou usando bico 0.4 na altura de camada 0.12 com a função passar ferro em PLA e essas duas peças foram impressas na msm bandeja porém esse A deu falha assim como um R que tbm estava lá (deu a falha bem parecida) só esse V que ficou bom oq poderia ter sido? o bico entupiu na camada mais fininha? me ajudem urgentemente 😭
Velocidade volumétrica max 14
fator k 0.024

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Inspired by his latest video, anyone can easily and quickly email 3D Printer Manufacturers with help from THIS SITE.
It creates a personalized email for you to voice your concerns about this bill and urging them to speak up.

I made a mount / pedestal for a boat seat.

My print settings were petg HF (Bambi).

I used 4 walls. With 15 fill.

The fit was great. Unfortunately leaning back in the chair resulted in catastrophic failure.

Essentially the failure was it ripping like a bandaid off the base.

What improvements could I have made here to make this print stronger? I feel like I screwed up in a few ways.

My thoughts...

Instead of essentially mounting the cylinder adapter onto a flat base, have sink it into the print, providing more adhesion?

Thanks.

I use IKEA BILRESA for my smarthome (homeassistant). For me the wheel was to slippery to spin. I created a small model which I glued on top of the wheel with a single mini drop of super glue to help me increase friction while spinning it.

Maybe it helps some of you.

I published it on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3000622-ikea-bilresa-wheel-grip-plate#profileId-3368857

I’ve been trying to find any documentation on this printer for a while but haven’t had any luck. Reason being I’m trying to take it apart and rebuild it bc it currently doesn’t work. If any of you could help at least identifying the brand, make, and or model that’d be much appreciated.