Just received my H&R 635 10.5" upper and I noticed this was different than the pictured listing. Should I be bothered about it? I don't know much about "clone correct" (or if the H&R 635 is even a clone) and I'm know there's more expensive uppers out there but while I'm not particular I don't want something subpar to what I paid for.

Also, I didnt take a picture, but the handguard seem eeevvvveeerrrr so slightly twisted, but it seems like its glued in place or something, had the delta ring completey pressed down and the handguard halves just wouldn't budge or seperate. Is that normal?

Also as per my second picture, is that normal? both apertures seem the same but on my A2 carry handle up theres one tiny aperature and one large. I swear I tried looking it up myself but I couldnt find any pics that clearly showed

I feel like a humongous dumbass right now.

AR9 build, A5 buffer tube, FM products recoil mitigation buffer and spring.

I cannot get the buffer to seat completely into the buffer tube.

I put the buffer spring in, start sliding the buffer into the tube and it gets almost all the way seated except for the last inch or inch and half.

What am I doing wrong?

First holographic and I have to say I’m enthusiastic.

ROFgui says 628rpm, full build details, and troubleshooting steps to get ARC fire working with AR9 coming soon. Novox x-sd barrel and adapter on a rugged sub9.

I’ve had this build finished for less than 24 hours, and it’s already one of my favorite pieces to shoot. I’ll gloss over receivers and handguards for the sake of keeping this post at least somewhat brief.

Noteworthy parts list:

-JRC 8.5” buffer tube. -Kynshot RB5015HD buffer (6oz). -Kynshot spacer weigh x2 (5oz). -Tubbs standard carbine flatwire spring. -BKF 9mm bolt. -KAK tungsten heavy carrier weight. -Novox X-SD barrel and adapter kit. -ASD ARC fire v1.5 -Bore Buddy ARC fire timing shim

Build specs:

-OAL collapsed = 27 15/16” -Weight w/o optic = 7lb 4.5oz -Cyclic rate = 624rpm -Suppressor length from rear of handguard = 11 11/16” -Barrel length from rear of handguard = 4 3/4” -muzzle velocity 115gr Luger/124gr NATO = TBD/TBD (will update in comments after range trip tomorrow)

Issues and Troubleshooting:

-ARC fire trigger regular semi auto in both fire and ARC position = requires Bore Buddy timing advance shim for ARC fire.

-ARC fire trigger binding with timing advance shim installed = remove shim and incrementally remove material from both sides with 600 grit sandpaper, using a circular motion, until trigger functions smoothly.

-KAK tungsten heavy carrier weight protruding from rear of bolt = use 180 grit sandpaper to remove roughly 1/16” from rear of weight, finish with 600 grit if desired.

If anyone has questions feel free to ask, I’ll do my best to answer.

No reviews on AR15Discounts but I am curious if anyone has any experience with this product.

https://ar15discounts.com/products/unrivaled-armory-mean-arms-bearing-delay-dead-blow-buffer-9mm/

Finished up with the EPC‑9 build. I’m planning to get this one cerakoted, but I can’t seem to find a local shop that does it. If anyone has any suggestions or knows a place that does great work and ships in and out, I’d really appreciate it.

I’ll be testing it out this weekend!

Build is here: https://builderarmory.com/builds/gpc9

Parts

• Lower: EPC-9 Receiver Set - Anodized Black [PN: APCS620001]
• Upper: EPC-9 Receiver Set - Anodized Black [PN: APCS620001]
• Grip: FORTIS MANUFACTURING TORQUE CARBON FIBER PISTOL GRIP [PN: 2GN-ARG-TPG15-TOR-PG-CF-15-BLK]
• Vertical Foregrip: Custom 3d Printed
• Handguard: Coda Lightning Carbon Fiber Handguard - Super Lightweight AR15 Rail [PN: CE1-BK]
• Magnifier: HOLOSUN Magnifier Series- 3X(HM3X) [PN: HM3X]
• Optic: HOLOSUN HS512C Multi-Reticle Circle Dot [PN: HS512C]
• Light: Streamlight PROTAC® RAIL MOUNT HL-X LONG GUN LIGHT  [PN: 88066]
• Trigger: Rise Armament Rave PCC AR Trigger - Flat Bow - Anti-Walk Pins [PN: T017F-PCC-BLK]
• Bolt Carrier Group: Faxon 9mm Bolt Carrier Group, Glock &Colt Compatible Nitride [PN: FF9MMBCGCNITRIDE]
• Barrel: Foxtrot Mike 9mm 10" Ultralight Barrel [PN: MIKE-9-10-0BRL-UL]
• Muzzle Device: Kaw Valley Precision KVP Linear Comp - Black (pin & weld) [PN: BLK-LINEAR-1/2X28 TPI]
• Charging Handle: Breek Arms Warhammer AR-15 Ambidextrous Charging Handle [PN: RK522]
• Buffer: KynSHOT RB5015HD Hydraulic Buffer [PN: RB5015HD]
• Buffer Tube: Just Right Carbines - Long Buffer Tube - Standard quality finish [PN: Buffer_Tube_Lg Category]
• Buffer Spacer: Just Right Carbines JRC Rubber Bumper for Buttstock [PN: Rubber Bumper for Buttstock]
• Buffer Spring: Strike Industries AR Pistol Flat Wire Spring [PN: SI-AR-FWS-P]
• Pistol Brace: SB Tactical SBA3 AR Pistol Stabilizing Brace - Stealth Gray [PN: SBA3X-01-SB]
• Takedown Pins: Radian AR-15 Takedown Pins [PN: R0077]
• Ambi Safety: Radian Talon Ambi 45/90 Safety Selector [PN: R0018]
• Bolt Catch: Radian Extended Bolt Catch [PN: R0323]

Doing my first PCC build. Home defense main goal. Tight for space on the hand guard relative to my 16-inch AR. Arisaka hand stop yay or nay?

Current list:
Base PSA AR-V
SB5 brace came with it
Streamlight Pro Tac
Holosun ARO

Have the Arisaka hand stop, Magpul K2+ grip and Raptor LT charging handle that haven’t been installed yet.

I’m really hopeful this is recoverable. Some things I’m sure are easy and I’m just missing, other things I really need help on.
First build, using complete FM9 lower and stripped FM upper. After assembly I noticed the extractor seemed to not be in the exact right position as I tried to get two pictures of attached above, so I attempted to remove both set screws to remove and adjust the extra extractor. The second extractor set screw. It looks like was Read lactated into position and would not come loose no matter how hard I tried. In fact, I tried a little too hard, and I may have stripped or partially stripped the inside of that second set screw (which is the part I’m most worried about😅).
How can I best recover this? Should I take it to a Gunsmith expert? That knows what they’re doing to get the set screw out. Is it possible for me to remove the set screw still, or should I contact FM? Should I try shooting the gun anyway before I mess with adjusting the ejector and try to ignore the set screws now unless I run into ejection issues? From the pics does it look like I will encounter issues?

Secondly, in all this mess, I loosened the long rod screw that goes in the hole most adjacent to the extractor in the later pictures and after removing it, it seems to have stuck the left side mag release down, and I can’t raise the release up or put that piece back where it was before. Hopefully that description makes sense. Would love some insight onto how to get that mag release back into place. I have noticed that the right side mag release has a lot more positive feeling when releasing mags and the left side was a bit softer and less positive of a button push and was wondering if there’s any way to make that left side better considering it’s the side I’m gonna be using mostly. Thanks for the help!

Built her on Friday and tested at the range on Saturday to test and zero optic. Gun runs flawlessly with all types of ammo including hollow points but having trouble with LRBHO working, thinking I might have to switch out the upper receiver for something more compatible for LRBHO.

LOWER

• Angstadt Arms 0940 Lower Reciever
• Maxim Defense Gen6 CQB Brace with Pistol Caliber Buffer System
• Rise Armament Rave PCC Trigger
• Geissele Maritime Bolt Catch
• Timber Creek Greyman Safety Ambi Selector
• Geissele Takedown pins
• LWRC Grip (from my LWRC AR15)

UPPER

• Grid Defense Vital 7.5” Barrel Upper Receiver
• Angstadt Arms 9mm BCG
• Breek Arms Sledgehammer Charging Handle (Suppressor coming soon)
• Primary Arms SLX 1x Prism 9mm
• Olight Odin S Mini (Possibly Switching to a Streamlight Protac)
• BCM Mod 3 Vert Grip

He is testing our 8” Banshee FE build with Blazer Brass 124 grain.

* BCM lower & BCM furniture
* A5 buffer tube
* Tubbs LW spring
* Kynshot RB5007
* Arc Fire V2 Trigger
* Sig Romeo 5 Elite 1.93”

Upper: MIKE-9-PA-7TRI-UR
Lower: F1FMP9BLR100
Mags: OEM Glock 30 rd

I figure someone else has had this problem, and i’m wanting to know how the fix went. First time at the range with this and it’s running great, but LRBHO not catching. Broke it down and found that the cam which the lifter lifts into to roll the rod that raises the bolt catch is raising above the lip of the lower. But it only does that if the upper is off. So when assembled, the cam is not able to lift as high as it should since the upper is lying over top of it. Blowback9 has posted videos describing this exact problem, and i think he just said to dremel the cam down so it’s not raising past where it should. I guess that’s my current plan unless FM has a flatter cam i can use, but my OCD just doesn’t want me to free-hand dremel this thing and ruin it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.