Me and my wife love figurines and miniatures, but resin printing is not really viable for us right now. But we have a bunch of FDM printers, so we came up with a workflow for printing models meant for resin on FDM.

Essentially it is:

1. Upscale the model to about 150mm tall (less detailed models are fine with 100mm, can always do higher and get better results).

2. Cut the model into pieces to minimize the need for supports. The models you see here were around 30-50 pieces. Meshmixer helps a lot here to make cuts with a finite plate. You can irregular cuts with Blender, but it's not worth it, since they are hard to print.

3. Import into slicer, paint on supports on all the pieces. As you go you kind of learn which places are really necessary to support and which are going to be fine.

4. Print with plain PLA (used Elegoo and/or Filacraft) at fairly slow speed. I can talk more about printing settings if anyone is interested later.

5. Glue the model pieces together, superglue works fine. For joints you sometimes need a little padding since the tolerance are scaled up when you scale the model, so a tiny piece of paper or paper towel soaked in glue helps a lot.

6. Fill in the joins with Milliput or another epoxy paste. There's many methods it's just what we prefer.

7. Prime with acrylic gesso, paint base color (it was a very dark brown for all of these I believe) and then brush with metallic wax paste.

What do you guys think?

The models are from Loot Studios' Trials of Hades pack.

Printed him in pieces this time and tried to orient him better like yall advised!

Which I was clearly not too eager to do 🤪

I knew that the orb and the smoke would be impossible to print in one piece (at decent quality), and I didn't really feel like doing the work.

If it was a human made sculpture, it would certainly be designed a lot differently for FDM printing...

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/RAAAH?show=store

40% off on all items - MyMiniFactory Summer Sale

Supportless Miniatures

The model and the whole base were printed A1 mini, 0.4 nozzel with ObscuraNox 2.0 profile and ResinToFDM supports.

Pretty happy with the result after taking the hobby more seriously and consuming a lot of content. First time trying OSL. Took a really long time to print in FDM, post-process, and paint.

Printed in Bambu A1 mini (0.2 nozzle, 0.06 layer height) and a thin coat of resin to hide the layers (some parts still have some visible layers because it’s hard to know if you are not overdoing and covering detail). But I recommend the method. No sanding at all on this one.

I know some things are not so refined (messed up with the chalky moonlight blue and glazing is still a weak point for me) and would be glad to hear more feedback.

(Ignore my hand, I haven’t figured out how i will attach her to the base yet)

It took like 5 hours of printing but I am impressed.

Any suggestions? New to this

I have an a1 mini. Using the fat dragon setting and creality petg. I think I finally got decent results then I get this. I think it’s my Zhop with spiral. But I don’t know what else to do to not get this level of stringing.
Edit I will post another picture soon.

Also added some epic scale and 28mm scale poses versions

All free in this collection, more coming soon!

https://makerworld.com/@dungeandwyve/collections/20961992?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi everyone, I'm new to 3D printing so bear with me.

As I understand eSun PLA+ is the golden standard for minis, but I saw that people often use gray. I wanted to try Cream White cause I would need it for other stuff, so my question is, is it OK or would it behave differently based on color?

Thanks to anyone that can help.

Hey r/FDMminiatures !

I’ve had a lot of people reaching out and asking for my slicer settings recently, so I decided to finally write it all down in one place. I want to emphasize that this entire post is just a breakdown of what I do, not what you have to do. There are many ways to print miniatures, and this is simply the workflow I’ve settled on for my own printing.

I've added a bunch of examples with different geometry to this post so that you can see the results. Obviously 0.4 nozzle will be less detailed.

🚨 Quick Disclaimer: All of these settings are based entirely on my own experience. Every printer environment is a little different, so slight tweaking may be required for your specific setup. These exact numbers may not work perfectly for everyone out of the box, but they are what I use as my daily drivers.

📸 The Settings Link (Screenshots)

If you just want to grab the numbers, I've put the screenshots for both nozzles into a single Google Drive folder. You can find all of my settings here:

• 0.2mm & 0.4mm Nozzle Settings Folder

🖨️ Hardware & Filament Setup

Layer Heights: 0.2 nozzle 0.06mm layer height, 0.4 nozzle 0.08mm layer height.
The Filament: I exclusively use Bambu Labs PLA Basic Blue Grey for these profiles. I've found it looks the best for unpainted miniatures and offers great ease of use for my setup.

The Build Plate: For my build surface, I use the Super Tack Pro build plate. While definitely not required, for my workflow, it has been a game changer for miniature adhesion. Using this plate allows me to basically eliminate bed adhesion as the root cause in 90% of failures. (Note: If the Super Tack Pro isn't available for your printer, I've heard the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier is a great alternative).

Printer Compatibility: I use these settings on older extruders (like the Bambu X1C and P1S) as well as the newer H-series extruders (specifically tested on the H2D and H2C).

🧠 My Core Methodologies (For Both Nozzles)

There are two slicer tricks I use on every miniature, regardless of whether I'm using a 0.2mm or 0.4mm nozzle:

1. The Corner Cooling Tower I place a prime tower or a simple cylinder/tower in the far corner of the build plate. As a miniature gets to the top (think heads, staff tips, swords), the layer times get incredibly short. If the nozzle stays hovering right over the mini, I find the radiant heat melts and warps those tiny details. The cooling tower forces the toolhead to travel away from the print, giving the plastic time to solidify naturally. Setting more layer time, just allows the nozzle to sit there. This way it moves it completely.

2. The Sacrificial Cube (Mid-Air Orientation) Instead of putting the miniature's feet flat on the build I place a small primitive shape (a sacrificial cube) directly underneath the model on the build plate. Then, I tilt the mini back and suspend it in mid-air. I do this because it helps prevent my tree supports from clustering beneath the feet of the mini. The cube takes the brunt of the base supports, allowing for much cleaner mid-air orientation for the miniature itself.

🤝 Credits & Shoutouts

I want to give credit where credit is due, as I didn't figure all of this out in a vacuum. A huge thank you to:

• u/ObscuraNox - For giving me a great baseline and understanding into different parameters. Thank you for sharing your v2.0 settings. I have adapted v2.0 for both my 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles.
• Tim Nolte (apologies, I'm not sure of your Reddit username!) - For sharing your v6 Support settings. It gave me a great baseline to adapt for my 0.4 nozzle supports when I was banging my head against a wall with support reliability on this nozzle.
• u/BlockBadger - For sharing your thoughts and ideas on parameters and 3D printing techniques.

💡 Additional Information

• Slicer Compatibility: These settings work for both Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer. Personally, I use and share them via Bambu Studio. Let's be honest, our community is pretty niche in the grand scheme of things, and the barrier to entry to get most people to switch over to OrcaSlicer just doesn't happen.
• My Workflow vs. Efficiency: As I mentioned earlier, my settings work for me and my specific workflow. There are absolutely other settings out there that are faster or use less filament. I chose these because they are a tested, working, and repeatable baseline for me. For example, I use 6 wall loops because I prefer the durability it gives the minis compared to using something like 2 walls and 20% infill. Again, that's just what I like to do, not necessarily what you should do.
• Support Ironing: I've tried Support Ironing and I just could not get it to be reliable without failures, so I've scrapped it for now. There are lots of folks that have made it work though, so I highly recommend checking out their posts if you want to go that route.
• PVA or PETG Supports: Using PVA or PETG for support interfaces is definitely on my bucket list. I just need to find the time to sit down and do some proper testing, but life has been a bit chaotic lately!

🤖 AI Assisted Disclaimer: I want to be transparent that this post was formatted and structured with the assistance of AI. I simply don't have the time to write out a big, long, novel-like post from scratch. All the thoughts, ideas, articulation, and settings are 100% my own—AI was just used to structure the text and get my jumbled thoughts down on paper clearly.

EDITS: So sorry i forgot to add these sections.

1. Supports... Always use Auto Supports in conjunction with manual support painting using the Support Painting Tool. Unfortunately you can't just rely on auto anymore. Paint those overhangs and floating pieces. Think of auto like a second parachute but it should not be relied on.

What do I typically change per model?

-Branch Diameter -Branch Diameter Angle.

Smaller miniatures (like medium sized humans for example ) are typically 1.6 - 1.8 diameter and Branch Diameter Angle of 2.

Larger miniatures typically 1.8-2 branch diameter and 2.5-3 branch diameter angle.

Since 0.2 nozzle are weaker supports due to line width and layer height, a higher end value of 1.8 is typical for me. 0.4 you can get away with 1.4 to 1.8 depending on the geometry.

It seems like finding good information on settings and print quality is pretty easy but I've been struggling to understand rule of thumb or best practices for position and/or model slicing before the print. Most of the models I have been printing come with pre-support files for resin. I've been following those when positioning in BambuLabs assuming that the idea behind resin and FDM supports is the same. I haven't had terrible luck but I wouldn't be surprised to hear its not best practice. I have not tried slicing a model into multiple pieces yet but saw it recommended on another model today.

Any advice you can give a newbie or maybe some good sources of information that I can check out?

I Cant figure out what kind of problem this is. Bambu Lab A1 Esun pla+ some rounded areas also have an edge.