r/FDMminiatures

Hand slipped while removing supports from my wife's new mini. Nothing some super glue can't fix.

My friend had her birthday this week, so i thought about using this happy occasion to try out printing a miniature and learning how to paint. There are still a lot of things im not completely happy with, but im excited to give her this as a present.

Hi everyone !

After reading a lot this sub I just thought that I'd share my first print with you guys !

I set up my A1 mini yesterday and beside the boat preloaded in the printer and a unicorn for my daughter this is my first actual print.

The mini (some sort of proxy space marine) is about 3 cm high, 0,4mm nozzle and I used Bambu lab settings "0,08mm High Quality @BBL A1M". There is probably room for improvement (especially if I use the 0,2mm nozzle and more advanced settings I have seen here) but I am very impressed by the quality and the details obtained. I hardly see any layer lines (on the shoulder and the helmet mostly and some on the gun), the details are much better than expected.

In the futur I do not plan to make mini that small so it was just to test the "limits" of the printer. I hesitated for a long time between FDM and resin, needless to say that I am glad I chose FDM when I see the results I get without any of the downside of resin.

Hello,

I'm writing in despair after several print fails.

I'm using a Bambu P2S with ObscuraNox2.0 settings (see pictures) and PLA Matte.

I had a big clogged nozzle that I cleaned and did not manage to save the nozzle (the cleaning needle provided should apply for 0.4 nozzle as it's clearly impossible to make it work on here).

I think it was due to adhesion issues (my plate was probabaly not warm enough so I raised temperature to 65°), washed it and I ordered a new Nozzle.

I started a new print, confidently watched the first layer and everything seemed alright.

Until I came back few hours later to see another model that have dropped and a new spaghetti with an error message "nozzle seems to be partially clogged" annnnnd, here we go again...

... I tried the needle and it doesn't worked, I did a cold pull and the result was good (filament clean, the shape of nozzle is good at the end) but when I try to extrude some filament to test if everything is alright, it still goes weirdly (see video).

I am quite lost.

- I don't know why my model fall (I print multiple model, model by model). What should I try, change ?

- Is my nozzle dead again ? (I ordered smaller cleaning needles to give it another try).

- Could the problem be due to the fact my filament goes up when extruding and clogging the hole of the nozzle when cooling? As the cold pull is clean i don't understand

Thanks alot for your kind help and recommendations

Edit : video in comments

Really happy with the paint job as I’m still getting the hang of shading. Print wise it’s on a 0.2 nozzle using resin2fdm support blender plugin and 0.06mm layer height.

I’m a bit of a one trick pony. This is a SEAL (Scientifically Enhanced Assault Legionnaire), the best Human Coalition can offer. Many rumors surround them being kidnapped children to lab monsters. It doesn’t help that SEALs never remove their armor in public.

The neat thing is this model is support free (though requires glue). I also made it completely in the slicer cause Blender is scary.

Pipermakes CuttleGeist

P2S, 0.4 nozzle, 0.08 layer, BambuLab Basic Cyan

MikeGyver's settings

Hey guys,

New to FDM printing and using my FDM, after about 600 hours of printing the standard fair with the stock 0.4mm nozzle, I wanted to print some miniatures.

This is more of a journal post than anything useful but I thought it would be good to share. Its worth noting the 0.06mm layer height profile was removed by SnapMaker as they kept having issues in testing. That said I really wanted 0.06mm layer heights as I want to try making some pre-coloured ready to battle miniatures with the U1s tool changer for family battles.

For my first 0.06mm layer height print with a 0.2mm nozzle, I wanted to do a big statue. Why? Because I can print something fun that will give me tuning opportunity with parts I am less likely to throw away. I am more than happy to sand off a few parts, modeling and finishing is all part of the fun.

I would like to print a benchy equivalent if someone can suggest something like a particular space marine or orc or something. That said I definitely learned a lot about the process with 0.2mm nozzles

The model is meant for a resin printer but I thought it would make a good stress test. It is far superior to any of the 1/72 Bandai kits of the same subject matter I have made, even with my poor starter printing skills, for reference:

https://cults3d.com/:3362113

I upsized to 150% to increase the panel gaps to make FDM less obvious. GW Culexus Assassin for reference.

Photos show it stuck together with putty prior to sanding, and priming for painting. Think of it as just off the spru.

First up I tried printing the base with PETG supports, a 1 GB G-Code file with 3 day print duration.

On the first day the PETG and PLA come off the base and it warped, as this is a print to failure process, I let the printer continue to see what other things I would run into.

On the 2nd day it rained and I do not have a AMS dryer for my printer. PETG became stringy, and incorporated into the stand but was still functional. I let it finish as nothing looked like I couldn't clean it up. I will come back to this

Troubleshooting steps:

• Reduce infill to 5%. While it could be 0%, I plan to mount this high on a wall facing down, so some more structure is desirable.
• Obvious AMS drying.

I printed the legs of the model next with the dryer and initially things went very well, but the model shifted when the legs were connected in PLA and the legs became uselessly deformed.

Wanting some quick wins, I shifted gears to smaller part prints. Initially I threw down the head, some bits and bobs, and the backpack on 1 plate to let it run for 8 hours while I was at work.

This was a big mistake as I missed one of the most important rules everyone else already knew. Print by object! All of my 0.4mm prints had no issues with this setup, having printed off a number of gear cog wind up cars for my wifes students, it was a standard practice I had been following.

These prints were unusable and photos above show some of these compared to the finals. The far right backpack in the picture of 3 is one such example.

Along with printing by object, I also switched to PLA supports and while this made it harder to remove, the quality was not that different, and print times improved by around 25%. These 2 changes made a big difference but all was not perfect. This is hte middle backpack i nthe lineup of 3. My problem now was some less than amazing under sides.

Some advice I often saw was to print on a 45 degree angle, so I did that. I also saw a lot of random over extrusion on layers that had substantial object changes. I added 2 layers, 6 up from the SnapMaker 4. The layer lines in the base are a good example of something I can sand on a statue that on a thin Skitarii would have ruined the whole print.

The result is the left backback in the lineup of 3, which has a more regular extrusion and looks substantially better on all sides.

I then reprinted the base and everything just looks so much better!

Printer: SnapMaker U1

Filiments:

SnapMaker PLA

SnapMaker PETG - supports,

Filament profiles are all provided by snapmaker with some extrusion tuning.

Starting off:

used the original SnapMaker 0.08 profile

Final settings adjsuted from defaults:

Firmware 2.0 with 0.08 layer height profile with the following adjustments:

0.06 layer height

6 walls

5% infill

20 degree supports

resolution 0.008

slice gap 0.03

outer wall speed 60 mm/s

Reduce infill retraction set to false

Picked up this humble bundle pack recently to get some mecha to print: https://www.humblebundle.com/software/skullforge-studios-arsenal-mega-bundle-software

Printed with a .2mm nozzle using the ObscuraNox 2.0 profiles on my SnapMaker U1. Filament is SUNLU PLA+ 2.0,