Hey r/FDMminiatures !

I’ve had a lot of people reaching out and asking for my slicer settings recently, so I decided to finally write it all down in one place. I want to emphasize that this entire post is just a breakdown of what I do, not what you have to do. There are many ways to print miniatures, and this is simply the workflow I’ve settled on for my own printing.

I've added a bunch of examples with different geometry to this post so that you can see the results. Obviously 0.4 nozzle will be less detailed.

🚨 Quick Disclaimer: All of these settings are based entirely on my own experience. Every printer environment is a little different, so slight tweaking may be required for your specific setup. These exact numbers may not work perfectly for everyone out of the box, but they are what I use as my daily drivers.

📸 The Settings Link (Screenshots)

If you just want to grab the numbers, I've put the screenshots for both nozzles into a single Google Drive folder. You can find all of my settings here:

• 0.2mm & 0.4mm Nozzle Settings Folder

🖨️ Hardware & Filament Setup

Layer Heights: 0.2 nozzle 0.06mm layer height, 0.4 nozzle 0.08mm layer height.
The Filament: I exclusively use Bambu Labs PLA Basic Blue Grey for these profiles. I've found it looks the best for unpainted miniatures and offers great ease of use for my setup.

The Build Plate: For my build surface, I use the Super Tack Pro build plate. While definitely not required, for my workflow, it has been a game changer for miniature adhesion. Using this plate allows me to basically eliminate bed adhesion as the root cause in 90% of failures. (Note: If the Super Tack Pro isn't available for your printer, I've heard the Biqu Cryogrip Glacier is a great alternative).

Printer Compatibility: I use these settings on older extruders (like the Bambu X1C and P1S) as well as the newer H-series extruders (specifically tested on the H2D and H2C).

🧠 My Core Methodologies (For Both Nozzles)

There are two slicer tricks I use on every miniature, regardless of whether I'm using a 0.2mm or 0.4mm nozzle:

1. The Corner Cooling Tower I place a prime tower or a simple cylinder/tower in the far corner of the build plate. As a miniature gets to the top (think heads, staff tips, swords), the layer times get incredibly short. If the nozzle stays hovering right over the mini, I find the radiant heat melts and warps those tiny details. The cooling tower forces the toolhead to travel away from the print, giving the plastic time to solidify naturally. Setting more layer time, just allows the nozzle to sit there. This way it moves it completely.

2. The Sacrificial Cube (Mid-Air Orientation) Instead of putting the miniature's feet flat on the build I place a small primitive shape (a sacrificial cube) directly underneath the model on the build plate. Then, I tilt the mini back and suspend it in mid-air. I do this because it helps prevent my tree supports from clustering beneath the feet of the mini. The cube takes the brunt of the base supports, allowing for much cleaner mid-air orientation for the miniature itself.

🤝 Credits & Shoutouts

I want to give credit where credit is due, as I didn't figure all of this out in a vacuum. A huge thank you to:

• u/ObscuraNox - For giving me a great baseline and understanding into different parameters. Thank you for sharing your v2.0 settings. I have adapted v2.0 for both my 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles.
• Tim Nolte (apologies, I'm not sure of your Reddit username!) - For sharing your v6 Support settings. It gave me a great baseline to adapt for my 0.4 nozzle supports when I was banging my head against a wall with support reliability on this nozzle.
• u/BlockBadger - For sharing your thoughts and ideas on parameters and 3D printing techniques.

💡 Additional Information

• Slicer Compatibility: These settings work for both Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer. Personally, I use and share them via Bambu Studio. Let's be honest, our community is pretty niche in the grand scheme of things, and the barrier to entry to get most people to switch over to OrcaSlicer just doesn't happen.
• My Workflow vs. Efficiency: As I mentioned earlier, my settings work for me and my specific workflow. There are absolutely other settings out there that are faster or use less filament. I chose these because they are a tested, working, and repeatable baseline for me. For example, I use 6 wall loops because I prefer the durability it gives the minis compared to using something like 2 walls and 20% infill. Again, that's just what I like to do, not necessarily what you should do.
• Support Ironing: I've tried Support Ironing and I just could not get it to be reliable without failures, so I've scrapped it for now. There are lots of folks that have made it work though, so I highly recommend checking out their posts if you want to go that route.
• PVA or PETG Supports: Using PVA or PETG for support interfaces is definitely on my bucket list. I just need to find the time to sit down and do some proper testing, but life has been a bit chaotic lately!

🤖 AI Assisted Disclaimer: I want to be transparent that this post was formatted and structured with the assistance of AI. I simply don't have the time to write out a big, long, novel-like post from scratch. All the thoughts, ideas, articulation, and settings are 100% my own—AI was just used to structure the text and get my jumbled thoughts down on paper clearly.

EDITS: So sorry i forgot to add these sections.

1. Supports... Always use Auto Supports in conjunction with manual support painting using the Support Painting Tool. Unfortunately you can't just rely on auto anymore. Paint those overhangs and floating pieces. Think of auto like a second parachute but it should not be relied on.

What do I typically change per model?

-Branch Diameter -Branch Diameter Angle.

Smaller miniatures (like medium sized humans for example ) are typically 1.6 - 1.8 diameter and Branch Diameter Angle of 2.

Larger miniatures typically 1.8-2 branch diameter and 2.5-3 branch diameter angle.

Since 0.2 nozzle are weaker supports due to line width and layer height, a higher end value of 1.8 is typical for me. 0.4 you can get away with 1.4 to 1.8 depending on the geometry.

Hey Folks,

Lots of people have been asking for settings for 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles, especially on the H series printers.

tl;dr: Been pulling my hair out on finding good baselines (every model is different, i know) for 0.4 nozzle that drive failures down, but are decent to remove supports without breakages that shouldn't happen. Continuing to work on this, but recentering myself to approach from a different angle.

Whats Been Happening:

The 0.2 nozzles are basically done and not much has changed. ive only really tweaked some more safe speeds for spare infill etc since the last time from my x1c. I need to upload the screenshots for people to replicate in their slicer.

Reality: i've been struggling to get supports to work on a 0.4 nozzle. Doesn't matter what I do.

Either: way too thick branches that ruin the models during removal, are way too difficult for the majority to remove or too thin and their not reliable with branch breakage midprint. This has been going on for about 3-4 weeks.

Now, to be fair in tandem I've been trying to complete my Skeleton series as promised, so these have been my test subjects. They are thinner than most chonky skeletons, because I wanted to separate myself from others. The designs come out perfectly on a 0.2 nozzle. Easy removal and great details.

From 32mm foot to eye Skeleton Archer all the way up to a Skeleton Minotaur at a large d&d scale (approx 60mm+ tall). I can see where the discussion could go with: its just too delicate of a miniature.

Fair enough, but it happens on large or small.

I have tried Tree (Hybrid, Slim, Organic), Normal.

Top Z distance: 1x to 3x layer height

All the different Branch Parameters and Base Pattern Spacing, Top Interface spacing of 1mm up to 4mm (trying to find that sweetspot of weakening but stable supports)

Bambu Studio and Orca (to try a different route)

Anyways, I won't sit here and list all the parameters ive tried its exhaustive.

All this to say, 0.4 nozzle supports suck in their current state (don't get me started on generation algorithms and how they're broken) and why cant they just be like 0.2 nozzles 🤣 (i know why lol)

So im taking a breather and trying to re-center myself so I can approach this problem from a different angle.

I'm also decently active in the Discord, if you want to ask me something or just to chat.

And I wanted to share my latest design, because who doesn't love a Shark. The Hunter Shark in all it's glory...

-Typed on mobile, sorry to those folks if layout sucks.

Hey Everyone,

I wanted to share some really cool miniatures and terrain tiles that just came off the printers! This project is a special collaboration between Mike Gyver Minis and the 3D designer Together3D, coming together to build a complete set called The Hive.

It’s always awesome seeing different creators pool their skills for tabletop setups. Here is how the project breaks down:

• The Giant Wasp: Designed by myself. It prints beautifully on FDM (the photos show it printed with a 0.2mm nozzle at standard 32mm scale).
• The Hive Tileset & Larvae: Designed by Together3D. The terrain uses the OpenLOCK tile system, making it super modular for building out massive, creepy honeycomb mazes or arenas for your campaigns.

Everything you see in the photos was printed on FDM. The textures on the honeycomb walls, the honeycomb gate details, and the gross little larvae bases turned out fantastic!

If you want to grab the files to build your own infestation, you can find the links in the comments.

Happy printing, and watch out for the stingers!

Hey folks,

​Just dropping a quick informational update for anyone here who follows my work or was disappointed when I dropped 0.4mm support a few months ago.

​Back in March, I decided to switch exclusively to 0.2mm nozzle print profiles to maximize the detail on my FDM miniatures. While the 0.2mm results are fantastic, after careful consideration, I’ve realized my decision alienated the 0.4mm nozzle folks who just wanted good quality, quicker prints without having to swap out their hotends.

​So, I’m going to doing both. Moving forward, I will be providing reliability-tested profiles for BOTH 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles on my releases.

​Because I refuse to release untested files, I'll be rigorously testing both profiles before they go live. This means release times will be slightly slower, but it ensures you get a fail-proof print whether you want maximum detail or a faster print on your standard 0.4 setup.

​I want to apologize for the back-and-forth flip-flopping on this, but I appreciate the feedback that helped me course-correct.

You'll be seeing the dual profiles from all my designs from now on. I have already finished the 0.4 for most of my new Animal set, and the rest should be in the few days.

​Cheers,

Mike

Just sharing some more of my latest works to give more examples of using my own profile and supports.

For those who might ask, the post can be found here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/comments/1syq7hp/mike\_gyver\_minis\_print\_settings

One thing ive changed since then is ive found for my X1C and H2C... 0.16mm Top Z Distance has been the sweet spot instead of the 0.18mm i originally used.

Hey everyone,

​I just wanted to share some cool miniatures I recently created. I've just started a new animal series, and here are the first 5 I've printed! (Featuring a Giant Boar, an attacking Black Bear, and an attacking Giant Badger in the photos).

​All of these were printed on FDM at a standard 32mm scale using a 0.2mm nozzle.

Getting the fur textures on the bear/badger and the tail/tusks on can sometimes be a challenge but these were all sliced and printed successfully using the Mike Gyver Minis support profile.

​I’m really happy with how the details came out. If you want to check out the models, grab the files, or try out the support profile for your own prints, I keep everything hosted here:

​MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/@MikeGyverMinis

​Patreon: www.patreon.com/MikeGyverMinis

Many more to come like Giant Centipede, Wasp, Octopus etc.

​Happy printing!

Let me know if you have any questions about my 0.2mm settings for minis.

Hey Folks,
After receiving my H2C this week, I decided to work on my Miniature profile for it and also re-evaluate my X1C settings in Bambu Studio since the last time.

I have had a lot of people reach out to me recently about sharing my settings in the form of exported configs and image albums.
I am happy to report, I’ve done both and the link is below.

I've added a Gallery of examples of miniatures using these settings and a screenshot of an example of my typical manual support painting

These settings are based upon u/ObscuraNox v2.0 settings. Without his hard work, I wouldn’t have a baseline to start with. I greatly appreciate his contributions. If you want to learn about calibration and FDM miniatures, check out his YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@DungeonsAndDerps

My Miniatures all have supports. These settings have not been tested with any supportless miniatures, but they logically should work fine, since supports are the biggest variable.

I don’t pretend to be an expert in FDM Miniature printing, however I am always ambitious in learning new things when it comes to miniatures and it has caused me to deep dive into creating repeatable, reliable baseline settings to print my miniature designs to show my supporters how my designs print. Designs are nothing, if they don’t print for people. So I sought out to make sure that people 9 times out of 10 can just click print (provided calibration, filament drying and printer maintenance is performed). There are obviously outliers.

Printers: X1C and H2C Nozzle: 0.2 nozzle

Build Plate: Bambu Labs Super Tack Pro (Recommendation). You can use any build plate you want, however you are probably going to need more of a brim.

All I will share is my experience. The Cool Plate Super Tack Pro (and all the 3rd party build plates that are like it in quality. Frostbite etc) are really next level for adhesion in my opinion.

Funny enough they also say to use it at 40 degrees. Do not do this for miniatures. If you do its basically the same as all other plates. Set the plate between 50 degrees and 60 for maximum adhesion. It's a game changer. I have my build plate temp at 50 degrees for my X1C. You may need to use a scraper to get your mini off, but its worth the trade off.

Is it an extra cost? Absolutely. Is it worth it? To me yes. As long as the plate isn't dirty, I have never had an issue with prints coming off the build plate. Have supports snapped off mid-print in my prototyping? Yes they have, but not at the first 20 layers or so. It's always mid support and that's usually because I have gotten greedy in my testing and lowered the thickness of supports to see what the model can handle.

If you are thinking about the Super Tack Pro build plate, be aware that Bambu markets the Super Tack Pro as buying it for the P2S only. The A and X series are marketed for the Super Tack (regular 1st version). I've tried both and the Pro is way better. So I ordered the Pro for my X1C. The only thing you don't get is the QR code on the plate matching other printers and the auto build plate detection.

Layer Height: 0.06mm. I stuck with 0.06mm as in my experience when I went to 0.05mm or below it's doable, but less reliable across different geometries and models and it just took too much time to prototype versus 0.06mm.

Filament: Bambu Labs PLA Basic Blue Grey. This is the brand/color I really like. It’s reliable (in my experience). I really like how the shadows are cast on unpainted minis. It helps me showcase my designs.

Drying: 6 hours (12h if possible) at 53 degrees in my Sunlu S4. During Printing, Drying for how long the print will take, at 45 degrees.

I have a Sunlu AMS Heater, Sunlu S4 and I am waiting for the Drying while Printing for the H2C to launch (which should be shortly).

Caveats/Things to Know:

• I don’t design miniatures in parts. I know there’s a lot of people that do and it’s amazing. It’s not for me. My designs are all one model and support settings are built around each miniature.

• These settings have been tested by myself multiple times with miniatures of varying geometry. From 20mm tall goblins to 43mm tall Elephantfolk to Giant Animals 73mm tall miniatures.

• There are other variables that make a difference. These things are: Orientation of the mini, Support Painting in Bambu Studio, Sacrificial Cube under the feet, Decoy Tower in the corner to deal with radiant heat. 

• Auto Supports only without any manual painting are just unreliable, especially if Bambu Studio updates the slicer software. But I have found even when there’s issues with Auto Supports, Manual Support painting seems to workaround most of the issues.

Printer Configurations
My Bambu Studio settings are available in two formats. One is the Bambu Studio Settings/Filament config that you can import. The other is Images of all of my settings found in Bambu Studio.
Both can be found here: Mike Gyver Minis Print Settings

**DISCLAIMER: While these have been tested multiple times, there is a chance that these do not work for you or may cause issues when importing/using them in Bambu Studio. You understand by using these settings, you do so at your own risk.

Support Removal
Support removal is typically very easy. Most branches are like thin plastic straws that are easily cut with flush cutters or removing sections with thin needle nose tweezers.
When removing supports, Do Not twist. With thin tweezers grasp the sides of the support and carefully pull straight down and it should release from the model. Scarring is decently minimized

FAQ:

1. Why do you use Bambu Studio and not Orcaslicer? I use Bambu Studio because I am a miniature designer first, so getting my supporters to change slicers is difficult to do. Especially having to use middleware like Bambu Connect just to use Orcaslicer. I know Orcaslicer can have better settings that Bambu Studio doesn’t.

2. What about the Bambu Labs P2S? These settings should work. However I used to have a P2S and recently sold it. I had nothing but problems printing miniatures specifically. After all the calibration, doing everything possible with the printer, including a support ticket, I was not able to get any miniature to print successfully. Something with that specific printer, but I was unable to pinpoint it and support was not able to as well, but it would print anything else with great quality. I have had a small number of people also reach out to me and let me know they had the same issues. After switching to the H2C and using the exact same settings, 0 issues on the H2C and the X1C. All this to say, this was my experience and I don’t have an answer as to why.

3. Do you have settings for a 0.4 nozzle? No, I don’t. I used to use a 0.4 nozzle, but I have since pivoted to 0.2 nozzle only. In the interest of time (prototyping and testing), I can’t do both at this time. 0.2 for high quality was just the logical choice.

4. What settings do you change between different models? I manually paint supports for all overhangs and floating features. From there I typically change the following:

   1. Branch Diameter: I start at 2.5mm and go up or down from there, depending on the size of the model. For example: a Goblin that is 20mm tall, I would start at 1.5mm. Larger miniatures are usually 3-4mm.

   2. Branch Diameter Angle: I start at 2.5mm and go up or down from there, depending on the size of the model. For example: a Goblin that is 20mm tall, I would start at 1.5mm. Larger miniatures are usually 3-4mm.

   3. Branch Angle: I don’t change very often and keep it at 40degrees. If I can do more vertical due to Geometry then I may decrease to 30-35.

   4. I adjust settings, test print, adjust some more for the model, print. After multiple successful prints that are repeatable. The design is done.

5. If I want to check out your designs, where can I find them? You can find them on Makerworld and my Patreon

1st Edit: In my sleepiness, I forgot to add an important section: The Build Plate. I've added that now in the specs settings and my thoughts.