r/askcarguys

Im looking for something that can fit 2 people and a border collie in the back.
Buying used, nothing too fancy.

I have a S650 Mustang GT , it’s my fun car/nice car, but I want to get a regular daily driver to commute to work , haul the dog around in and something good on gas

Im looking at a new Hyundai Elantra , one is an SE and the other one is SEL Sport, the SE is the base model , has a physical key to start the car , single zone climate control and smaller wheels and tires.

The SEL Sport which is the 2nd trim level above base model and it has a sporty exterior, bigger wheels that are black and bigger tires, duel zone climate control and a nicer steering wheel.

The SEL Sport is $1200 more then the SE and I was planning on going with the SE since I have a nice car already but the only thing I want extra is black wheels.

I’d be fine with a physical key but my mom being the person she is she loves to pull the what if game, she keeps saying “ what if you injure your hand and can’t turn the key “ and “ what if your passenger wants the temperature higher or lower then what you want it ?”

So now she has me thinking, is it really that bad to have a base model car with a physical key? Like I said the only thing I want from the SEL is the black wheels

I refueled at a gas station in a nearby small town that is closed on Sunday, but the pumps thankfully operate 24 hours for card holders.

I thought that If someone was almost out of gas and they only transacted with cash, they would be SOL because the store wasn't open.

And then I wondered why fuel pumps don't have coin and Bill slots that will allow cash payers to pay at the pump 24/7.

So why isn't paying at the pump 24/7 with cash a thing at pretty much any common gas pump? Why can't they be like vending machines with their own coin and Bill slots?

Hi! First-time car buyer based in Canada, looking for a new car for work. I'll be driving about 360 km/week for work on the highway and occasionally on rural roads (incl. during winter) as my job is located in a sort of remote area and I'll be living in the nearest major city. Posting here because the buying process has felt quite overwhelming with the amount of information out there.

Criteria:

• Looking at makes like Honda, Toyota, and potentially Subaru as well for their reliability and their price points for any maintenance issues or costs related to accidents, as well as fuel economy
• AWD for driving in winter weather/roads and on gravel roads and potentially in rural areas as well.
• 2020 and newer, relatively affordable, under $35k as I will be financing and doing bi-weekly payments so nothing more than $500/month

A few shortlisted options thus far:

Compact SUVs

• Honda CRV (strongest option that I'm leaning towards)
• Toyota RAV4 (test-drove and feels a bit large in size for my liking)
• Subaru Crosstrek
• Mazda CX-30 or CX-5

Sedans (I talked with a salesperson at a dealership and he advised against a sedan for the conditions that I'd be driving under, but still listing them here for any other input/advice)

• Honda Civic LX
• Hyundai Elantra
• Toyota Camry
• Mazda 3

Any input, advice, etc. is greatly appreciated! TIA!

I'm most likely buying a CX-50 in the next week or two. I've been looking at the gas model (premium AWD) mostly because I work from home so my mileage is very low.

I like the idea of hybrid and I've recently heard that hybrid engines have fewer problems and perform better.

A few facts:
About 2500 miles per year
Suburban roads
Highway maybe once every month or two
We have cold, snowy winters
I typically keep cars about 10 years

I know I won't save enough on fuel to offset the higher purchase cost of a hybrid

Can someone guide me through the process of starting to work on my car like what tools should I get what resources should I use

The background behind the question is that I have a 2013 Volkswagen Jetta Se 2.5l 5th letter vin P, and I blew up the engine in the car. I dropped it off at a mechanic that said they could fix Volkswagens and ended up having an engine shipped to them that I bought.

Well anyways, they told me that the engine is not compliant with the car, because I need a California emissions engine since it was built for California. I’m not sure if they are telling the truth or if there is such thing as a California emissions engine. I researched and apparently the parts on the old engine can be put on the new engine to make it compliant. I’m also in Illinois as well. No emissions law where I live.

Tell me what you know and what you think about this. Are they stealing my money and taking my parts? Or are they being legitimate?

As a bonafide car idiot, the first and often only things I notice about a car are the color and the general shape.

One thing that has made me sad as I look at possibly buying a new car is that color options have mostly dwindled to black, white, and silver, usually red (though sometimes at a pricier trim), and occasionally the saddest, dullest shade of blue imaginable, for those who are looking for something a little different but still hate colors in principle.

I've come to terms with this. I've considered wraps but concluded it's probably not worth it.

But one thing that still gets me is that, especially with the handful of practical specs I'm searching for, it's basically a guarantee that the interior will be either black or dark grey.

I live in a hot place where, for a few months out of the year, when you get in your car it actually feels like you can't breathe and you have to leave the door open while you start the car so you don't pass out before you get the windows rolled down. Not only that, but aesthetically, I just prefer a light color. It feels happier and roomier, and when I drop something on the floor I can find it using my eyeballs rather patting around blindly with one hand.

Car guys, reasonably, would I be able to have the interior color of a car changed from black to beige/tan for less than one billion dollars? Not just the seats, but the carpet, dashboard, console, etc.?

Would appreciate some clarification.

I have a 2020 Corolla with a recommended PSI of 33, yet when I blow my tires up to 33, I always get the low pressure light on. Why is that? Should I start going above the recommended amount?

Edit: when I blow my tires up more than the recommended amount, sensor light goes off.

I have the chance to buy a 1986 F350 from my boss for somewhat cheap due to the fact that it has sat for 15ish years. Is this truck worth buying and fixing up or because it’s sat for so long it’s not really worth it?

I have a 2014 Subaru Forester with 280,000 miles on it. Recently the ac compressor seized up and destroyed my serpentine belt too for good measure.

Outside of the A/C not working properly prior to this the vehicle has been otherwise tremendously reliable. And it has my favorite feature… it’s fully paid off.

Is it worth keeping or is it time to invest in a new vehicle?

I’m starting to look for a truck and would appreciate some input from people who know the space well.

What I’m looking for:

Full-size (need rear vents and enough backseat space for kids)
Minimal towing requirements
Budget around $40k, with some flexibility up to $45k for the right option (factoring in a trade-in)
Reliability is a top priority — looking for something that won’t require frequent repairs beyond routine maintenance and can realistically last 10+ years. Ideally under 40k miles, though I know some models hold up well past 200k.

Usage context:
About 8–10k miles per year, mostly city driving
Occasional towing and general bed use that my current vehicle can’t handle
So far, I’ve done some research and liked the Nissan Titan Pro-4X and Platinum Reserve trims. I don’t necessarily need all the premium features, but I do appreciate them.
I’ve had some hesitations around Tundra, Ram, and GMC, so I’ve been leaning more toward Ford outside of Nissan — but I’m definitely not an expert here.

No immediate timeline, so I’m open to waiting until later in the year if it makes sense for pricing.

I'm worried about Edison (and therefore their investors).

-They don't have a 'product' that they own. They are simply buying components and marrying them together, albeit with some software they've purchased/modified.

-Their transport truck product could be replicated by anyone, and big manufacturer could bury them in a year. The economies of scale work against Edison, and will for a long time.

-All their certifications are now available to the competition, they forged the way, everyone else can ride on their work.

-Their pick-up truck conversion is going to be very expensive, at a time when Stellantis is building an 'equivalent' product (2026 gas powered Ramcharger). It's also not a 'DIY' friendly project. I'm sure it will work (after lots of teething pains), but is it economical for anyone?

-This is not rocket science, every automotive manufacturer must have considered and rejected this concept (except Stellantis). It's not that the concept is too difficult, there must be underlying financial/engineering reasons they have not pursued the concept.

-I have not seen real world tested cost savings for any of their projects. Chase likes to make the logging argument, 'battery uphill, recharge downhill'. Logging is a specific use case that is a small portion of the real market.

-Their real estate is great. For them. I'm jealous of their setup. But if they fail who would buy it? What percentage of their investment could be recouped?

-Watch Wes Work on YouTube made a logical and well thought out video questioning the economy that can be achieved going diesel electric. Edison did not refute his assertions.

I admire their efforts and initiative, maybe there's a specific niche market for them. I hope they succeed, but I am not ready to invest my money. I'd actually like to see them on Dragon's Den. Would a savvy investor back them?

Hi! So I have had my car for about a year and we tired to charge the ac last year and it blew cold for about 30 secs then nothing winter or summer it just blows out the air from our side the heat does the same. I hope this made sense I’m typing in a hurry! Thank you in advance for any thoughts or help!

I feel like I see more overlander trucks with campers on top in city traffic than I do when I’m camping or in the mountains. Are they the new jeep parking lot princess? I know people actually use them, people actually use jeeps too. I always start to wonder how many people thought it sounded cool and never go. I like having my tent separate from my car. Allows me to hike in sometimes with my small tent, which is where it’s really at. Or car camp with my big tent that I can stand in. Don’t have to find a flat place to park, don’t have to climb down a ladder to pee in the dark. Can leave camp with car and resupply or just sightsee without tearing down. For a fraction of the cost. I do kinda want one tho. It does sound romantic and cool. But so does a jeep.

We all know that hp and torque numbers have only gone up on most cars, with there being tons of non-EV cars and SUVs with 300-500hp driving around. We also know that you don’t actually need all that power for daily driving, but what are some cars that are still dangerously slow?

Recently rented a 2.5L Outlander, non-hybrid, and actually felt unsafe merging into fast traffic. An NA 4 banger paired with a CVT in a car meant to haul 7 people was *not* the right choice IMO. It was just screaming and not going anywhere as cars behind me caught up quickly, I immediately learned I needed to be very patient when turning onto big roads. I couldn’t imagine how it would feel with all the seats full. Pretty much every newer car I’ve driven has felt significantly quicker.

I know I’m going to get shit for going to a dealership, but I really don’t have safety net for rides and cannot afford to leave my car for multiple days.

I brought my car to chevy in MI, due to pulsating and poor acceleration.

The techs said it was my spark plugs and recommended some fuel additive cleaning.
Ending up being $800- pricey as hell, I know.
I was just happy to fix my car.
On my 14 minute drive home, the CEL came on and the engine was stuttering like crazy in park, with the RPMs jumping.

I brought it back and was told that it was my clogged cat converter. I do believe this is my problem, however it’s a $2200 fix. I authorized the fix as I NEED my car.

I brought up the issue about the sparks plug and fuel additive not needed, but was blown off as he said “ the plugs were bad”

Dealership has had the car since Thursday and I need it for work today.
My friend can help me get to work, but I have a feeling that they are gonna have my vehicle all week.

Do I have any rights? Should I request to speak with the manager and state that not only was I charged for unneeded repairs, but it also made my car worse?

I have a 2007 Camry with 235k miles. I am getting a new car by the end of the month so I just need my car to last a few more weeks. Not trying to put any money into it unless absolutely necessary.

I've had a CEL light on for 2 years with half a dozen EVAP codes, car drives fine. Been burning oil forever but I always keep it topped up.

Yesterday on the highway the CEL started flashing and I lost all acceleration. Started to pull over...but before I could the light went back to solid and engine returned to normal. I drove 3 hours yesterday and 2 hours today with no issues.

How stupid is it for me to drive the car for the next few weeks until I get my new one? My car is an old shitbox and I am not concerned with damaging it further, only avoiding breaking down for a few weeks. I am thinking it is likely a misfire and/or cat getting clogged?

I can’t change my parking spot. It’s my first year at tjis apartment building and I just bought a 2017 Lexus es I want to really take care of. How could I protect my car? I’m not sure when the tree will stop shedding, and luckily I don’t drive so much in the summer. Can I throw some tarp or plastic on my car while it’s parked? What would you recommend? Or should I just leave it uncovered and wipe it down with alcohol once in a while?