r/askcarguys

Hey! I’m 19 and looking to buy my first car. I know that wanting something sporty/cool looking probably isn’t the most responsible first car decision 😭 but I’m paying for everything myself and I’d really like something I actually love driving.

I’m basically looking for a coupe or convertible, preferably white or another fun color. I’ve really been wanting a 2007-ish Mustang, but I also love the look of older sportier cars like Mitsubishi Eclipses, Acura Integras, Miatas, Mazda, Nissan 300ZXs, etc. I don’t need anything super fast by any means, I don’t intend on being a speed demon or street racing or anything like that I really just want a car i enjoy the look of.

My budget is realistically around $6–7k (Ha 😭), and I’m in Oregon.
My grandpa will be helping me with the buying process and has final say/approval on the car. His main requirements are:

Clean title

Under 100k miles

Relatively reliable / not a complete project

Something that isn’t going to immediately drain my savings in repairs

I know that’s a lot to ask for $6–7k, especially with the type of cars I like, but I’m curious what models you guys think I should be looking at.
What sporty/cool-looking cars would you recommend for my budget? I’m open to cars I haven’t mentioned!

I honestly just want something I can feel cool blasting some music out of and full transparency both of my ex’s were both car guys and I think part of my ego just wants to prove “so what? I can be one too”

I'm in the mid west where Costco gas is currently around $4.10 for 87 octane. My brother in Sacramento sent me a photo of his Costco gas at 6.15. I know that has to be crippling for low and middle income folks considering California is a huge commuter state. When I lived there I was commuting 1.5 hours to and from work and that was pretty common. I daily drive a v8 200 series Land Cruiser here in the midwest and in no way would be able to drive it in California with the current gas prices.

I know you should stick to the manufacture's recommendation, but I've been running 87 octane in my 200 series with Toyota's 3ur-fe v8 for years and have never had an issue, but I was just curious if anyone who runs 92 octane has ever switched to 87 for awhile to save money and then switched back to premium and if so did you actually notice any difference in performance or mpg? or any issues in general?

Buying a higher end car for the first time can feel a bit more intimidating than going in to buy a Sonata or Altima. What’s your guys’ advice for those buying their exotic sports car, specifically when at the dealership? Anything different compared to buying any other car?

For me, some newer cars are getting packed with features that sound cool on paper but I’m not sure I’d ever pay extra for them.

What’s one feature you’d happily skip even on a new car?

Could be a panoramic roof, giant screen, power tailgate, subscription features, massaging seats, whatever.

So turning on the ac makes the compressor turn on and run off the belt. Does running it on high really makes the car less fuel efficient than running it on low?

The belt is gonna turn at the rate the engine turns, I do t get how making it colder uses more gas.

TIA

I test drove a Camry and a RAV4 XSE today at a Toyota dealership in Dallas. I really liked the RAV4 and was genuinely interested in buying it.
I told them several times that I was interested in the out-the-door price, because I want to compare the actual total cost of the vehicle—not monthly payments.
Instead, they kept trying to steer the conversation toward financing and monthly payments.
One of the managers was particularly rude and condescending. He essentially questioned whether I could afford the RAV4 because I was asking for the OTD price. He asked for my driver’s license and told me he would fill out my credit application for me.
I told them again that I wanted the OTD price.
Then things got even stranger.
The vehicle was originally advertised/on the sticker at around $47,000. When they came back with pricing, it had increased to around $48,600. There were also approximately $1,200 in dealer-added items that they said they could remove.
Eventually they showed me a printed sheet with the OTD pricing. I asked if I could take a copy home so I could review it. The manager looked at the paper and said:
“No, this is for internal use only.”
I asked if I could at least look at it there, and he said yes.
They also kept asking me what monthly payment I could afford. At one point they were talking about $987/month.
I kept saying that the monthly payment isn’t what I’m trying to negotiate—the OTD price is.
Eventually I told them I felt both managers were being rude and condescending, thanked the salesperson who had test driven the vehicle with me, and left.
I wasn’t asking them for anything unusual, was I? Is it normal for a dealership to refuse to provide a customer with a written copy of the OTD price?
I’m still interested in the RAV4, but obviously I’m going to shop other Dallas-area Toyota dealerships now.

The mechanic said the puncture is in a place where it is illegal for him to repair. If we fill it up with our portable air compressor it will last a few days. The tires only have around 5-10k of miles left on them before the tread hits the wear indicator. So keep filling it up manually every few days or replace all four tires now? Or attempt some makeshift repair?

I sold an old car a while back because at the time it felt like the sensible thing to do it needed a few things and I didn't really want to keep putting money into it.

Now whenever I see the same model on the road I kind of regret it lol.

Anyone else have a car like that? One you probably shouldn't miss, but you do ?

I have a 2006 Pontiac Grand Prix. I went to get a regular oil change and they noticed a bunch of build up underneath and said it was leaking oil. They said it would be best to get it looked at by a mechanic and a waste if they do an oil change.

I could smell the oil burning, the car isn't driving as fast, there's a clicking sound, and I can feel some rumbling. I guess a regular oil check won't do anything and I should get it looked at?

I’m considering purchasing a used Volvo from a small independent dealership. I’ve done my homework: pulled the CARFAX, contacted the shops that previously serviced it, and everything looks good. One owner, no accidents, consistent maintenance history. It was a clean trade-in.

The dealer is willing to let me have a pre-purchase inspection done at an independent shop, but insists it must be within the county and specifically won’t allow me to take it to the Volvo dealership, despite that dealership being just down the road.

His explanation is that his vehicles are competitively priced, and it is, and he doesn’t want a franchise dealership producing a lengthy list of repairs at dealership labor rates that could be used to negotiate the price down. I can understand that perspective, and I’m not expecting him to cover every maintenance recommendation.

My concern is that the local independent shops I’ve found either don’t have clearly established Volvo experience or can’t accommodate an inspection anytime soon. Meanwhile, the Volvo dealership can get me in this week.
I’m paying for the inspection myself. I simply want someone familiar with the brand to give me an objective assessment before spending the money.

Would you consider the restriction on using the franchise dealership a red flag, or is this fairly common practice among independent used-car dealers?

Edit: should I take it to the dealership anyways?

Title

Catalytic converter on my 2008 Lexus RX 400h was stolen (in broad daylight too). Can't find any option on the CARB website. Do I need to go with the OEM option that is $2k? I don't have comprehensive insurance, so the cost of the repair would probably be half the value of the actual car...

Idea’s for a cheap small truck or SUV to get through Kentucky winters and daily driving from work and college? I have a charger I daily drive now but do not feel comfortable driving a cammed v8 through the winter months at 20. preferably $5,000ish budget. Originally thought of a 3rd gen 4runner but seems impossible at that budget.

I’ve got Michelin Defender 2 tires on my honda crv 2015 touring awd. They are on good condition about 7 to 8/32”. I got a nail on front right tire yesterday and it ruined it beyond repairable? Now I need to change tires.

So, should I change two tires or all four tires?

I just have a daily and a weekend car on the way but eventually I’ll probably need to get a tow rig.

My old boss daily drives an Acura TLX and his race cars are a 88 fox body Mustang coupe , a 92 fox body Mustang hatchback and his tow rig/work truck is a 2013 ford f250 6.7 powerstroke

Subaru dealer quoted $550

Auto mechanic shop quoted $350

For the 1-year maintenance on a Subaru Forester:

Replace engine oil and filter
• Rotate tires and inspect for wear
• Inspect tire condition and adjust all tire pressures
including spare
• Remove, inspect and service front and rear brakes
• Inspect and adjust all fluid levels including both differentials
• Inspect operation of all lights, wipers and washers
• Inspect and adjust drive belt tension if necessary
• Service battery
• Inspect axle boot condition
• Lubricate all latches, hinges and locks
• Inspect all steering and suspension components
• Check under body for damage
• Test coolant, inspect hoses and clamps
• Inspect engine and cabin air filters – replace if necessary
• Wheel alignment (recommended)* additional costs at both dealer and auto mechanic shop
• Road test

Update:

Located in Canada https://www.subaru.ca/content/7907/media/general/webimage/500k/2012_maintenanceposter_en.pdf

I am leasing the car and need to do this for the warranty.

Im wondering if i get a 15% tint will i have a problem with being pulled over or should i play it safe and get a 35%.

A year ago I bought a 2012 rav4, 2.2 D4D, AWD, limited edition (keyless, camera), 175000km. I wanted that car because of the reliability and because it's a car that I could actually drive on dirt and forest roads, and because of the large windows and small screen.

Well, turned out that it had a busted head gasket. I had that repaired, the head machined, and it seems fine now. It used to spew coolant under load, now everything seems fine. I drove it 7000km after the head gasket job.

But I just don't trust it and I keep waiting for the gasket to go again... Apparently that's something that happens with those engines.

Also, I don't drive the car on dirt nearly as much as I thought, and most of my roadtrips were on highways and local roads, and even though the diesel pulls very nicely, the car is loud and not very comfortable for long drives.

I've been thinking of selling it and getting a newer, 2019ish, Mazda CX5, with the 2.0 NA petrol engine.

What do you guys think?