r/askplumbing

next to sump pump?

Can anybody recommend a plumber or water mitigation specialist? Don’t know how long this has been like this. Been in the house 12 days noticed a slow leak in the shower on the floor above. Came down to the first unit and saw this.

Having bathroom renovation. Day 1, the demolition. guy came (no English at all). Accidentally nicked a hot water pipe under the floor. This guy had zero idea about how to turn the water off, how to drain the tank, how to stop the leak.

He ended up not closing the cold water, but draining the system from the magnetic filter. Got him to turn the water off eventually. Was it wrong to use the magnetic filter?

His manager said he would come and fix the pipe tomorrow.

Should we get someone else in or see if these guys follow through?

Ended up paying for a taxi for the guy to get home.

Ok, so two washing machine drain setups pictured here. The U shaped setup splashes out for a few seconds when draining - enough to get a fair amount of water on the floor. The Y shaped setup works fine. I’m thinking the U setup isn’t working properly because of its shape not allowing water to flow smoothly down the drain? Thoughts?

My “neighbor” forgot to pay their water bill on time and she came home to find this lock on her meter. Of COURSE I’m not asking for assistance in doing anything potentially wrong but how would the water company remove this “lock” after my neighbor pays her bill??

​​ I have a 1-in meter set that has a 1-in Pex stubline coming off of the meter. I want to branch off of that stub line and have two sides.

• Side one is going to lead to an rpz / backflow and then to a 1 1/4 poly trunk for irrigation.
• Side two is going to lead to a 1-in poly trunk line for no-freeze spigots.

The no-freeze spigot trunk line sits in front of the rpz so that they can be charged all year even after the irrigation side is flushed.

I have added a crude diagram to this post to illustrate the following. Everything at the end if the stub is going in a box.

First, there will be a male threaded viega press fitting on the pex stub, then off of that - an all female 1" brass T.

Side 1:

• Nipple from brass T to union ball valve.
• Male / female elbow from ball valve to brass riser that leads to RPZ. (Male end goes into ball valve. Female end has the riser in it.)

Side 2:

• Nipple from brass T to union ball valve.
• ​​ Male to poly barb in union ball valve.
• Barb to poly spigot trunk

Is this a reasonable design, any cons or things of note?

My wife and I are purchasing a home in New Jersey built in 1960. During the home inspection, a sewer scope showed that the sewer line was made of orangeburg piping and had a partial collapse. We went back to the seller, and they said they would get the line replaced.

They did hire a licensed plumber to do the work and they are getting city permits.

The question is: should they be replacing the sewer line all the way to the foundation of the house? The image above shows a location in the line about 6 feet in front of the house's foundation. To the right, the orangeburg pipe was completely replaced by PVC pipe all the way to the sewer main at the street. However, to the left, it looks like they left in the existing pipe (the connection point is about 6ft from the house's foundation). Is this okay, or should that pipe have been replaced as well?

recently started working at this bar that is recently under new ownership. our ice well leaks from the very base of where the drainage tubes connect. all the random plumbers tape, packing tape, duct tape is from previous management. how can i seal this? should i pry off all the old tape? can i just, like, flex seal it or something?
assuming it screws in, could i get all that stuff out, put new white plumbing tape on the threads, and then would it be fixed?
sorry, i am obviously very new to this kind of stuff. any advice on how to fix it would be great.

Seems like we get this nasty noise whenever the faucet is not 100% on, is there a way to fix it? How hard is it to fix?

Please keep me honest and go easy on me.... Money is tight and my 20+ year old BW electric heater has an element/thermostat issue I just confirmed - lower element has continuity but not getting 240 to it so think a stat is bad. I know I'm on borrowed time and debating on just replacing it though I have a tune up kit at the ready that should get me up and running.

My dilemma: is it's an old 80 gal residential so quotes to replace with an 80 are $3k and up, I've got some quotes to go to a 50 gal (4 person, 2 normal bath house so should be ok) because of the cost but even those are over $2k. The water heater itself I can purchase from my local supply house for $750 and I think I can just basically plug and play but wanted to get opinions on the slight offset in the pics and if there is anything I'm missing...

The new spec is 59 to top and 60 1/4 to top of fitting for a tall. The old 80 sits at 59 to the top but has a slightly higher hot nipple than cold, so there is a total of maybe 1 to 1 1/2 inches offset between the two as currently plumbed. The plumbing was all recently redone and after the required length of copper off the tank both lines go to pex so I should have some 'play' to work with and I'm thinking I can drop the hot raise the cold slightly by messing with the pex (taking a couple local staples out and unstrapping the expansion tank) and should basically be able to unscrew the old one and put the new one in with not additional plumbing required.

Let me know your thoughts and thanks in advance. I would be great to save the money and get rid of the ticking time bomb - and I don't mind or fear the work, just want to make sure it looks like a good plan to you pros!

Edit: both nipples are 8 inches apart old and new and the 50 gal tank is much skinnier than the old 80 so no issues landing the lines in the same spot.

I am refreshing our insurance policy and they want proof that the 21 inches of exposed cast-iron piping is not an issue. Everything above it has been replaced with ABS but the insurance company wants a plumber to weigh in that this 21 inches is not a concern. Is there a plumber here that would honour a reasonable rate provide their insight based on pictures and or visit in Hamilton Ontario be able to provide a commentary to satisfy that there is not an issue here.

For context here, the insurer just wants confidence that the cast-iron was reasonably replaced and not at risk.

Note from insurer “I spoke with the UW assigned to your file and she said that an inspection signed by a plumber stating that it does not require replacing is sufficient”

Any insight from the community is appreciated.

Regards,

Bradley

My Refrigeration company did a like for like, package AC swap for one of our customers. I replaced the pipe from the gas valve, back to the flare adapter that starts the flex line. I copied the original run. Upon permitting, they stated they wanted the drip eg after the shut off but before the flex line. All other units on the roof look like this. Other than “they asked”, what’s the reason to move the drip leg?

Just moved into a new house. It was built in the mid-50s and we’re finding lots of… interesting things. The shower was redone probably 20 years ago.

It’s draining really slow and water is starting to accumulate when you shower. It does drain within a couple of minutes after you turn the water off. I figured the drain just needed cleaned and took the cover off to see if there was hair down there and found this black rubber gasket thing. It definitely has an opening but it kinda angles out into a smaller opening for the water to drain.

What is it? Is it supposed to be there? I don’t want to stick anything down there to try and clean it in fear I might ruin the gasket and cause a leak.