The manual says drain the body occasionally and that rust inside the thing is the enemy. On humid days I get water out of the drain. At some point, it's going to fail, I reckon. Has anyone had one fail? How old was it? And how catastrophic - was it just an extra noisy pop or did it go like a shrapnel grenade?
If you've not seen this interview on LBC with a LibDem councillor about riding a bike to work as a tradesman it made a splash in the tradesman community last week. So I tested her claims myself as a professional plumber. I was shocked! A bit of Sunday fun - you can watch the video here (if that's allowed)
Can someone please suggest how I can repair this while on the trim. This is a wooden trim.
Trying to get into carpentry I've got some adult courses booked
Property maintenance bootcamp
Basic carpentry bootcamp
Is a nvq the next step?
Hey all I had a question done some trim questions and thanks for the answers and now I started to install hardie clap over 3/4” furring on CI. I usually always use my siding gun , but the hardie TB/ instructions say to use 1 1/4” roofing gun for this type of install. I really don’t like how inaccurate the roofing gun is.
Has anyone done this with an siding gun? Did I miss read the instructions for hardie over furring? I have 1 3/4” siding nails
I feel like I can’t find a straight answer on this, but can anyone here recommend the correct way to use these joists for making a play area in the basement with hanging stuff that can hold kids and the occasional adult?
Hi all, I'm going to be redoing my deck in the spring but need advice so I don't have to re do it later.
We would like to have a covered porch but our soffit and roof line are difficult to imagine being able to get a new porch roof in there.
I'm looking at doing a metal roof in two years, and was wondering if I should redo the deck and have the roofers be able to change the roof line, or don't put in a deck and instead pour a pad and put in steps to the front door.
That way we would have a blank space for the enclosed porch.
I'm really just spinning with what I should do to make life easier for the builder. I don't want to cause issues for them. But the deck is coming down this spring.
Roof 21 square 10/12 pitch, soffit is about a foot.
If we go with metal I don't want an avalanche on us every time we close or open the door.
Any suggestions? Thank you in advance I appreciate it.
Hope ya'll enjoy the craftsmanship.
I recently finished the railing for our attic bedroom stairwell as part of a larger reno project and wanted to share. The previous railing was circa early 1900s and not safe.
Quarter sawn white oak sourced from a single tree in Pennsylvania (via my local hardwood shop). I bought it rough sawn, milled everything myself in the garage. I love that the color and grain stay consistent across the whole thing.
Joinery and hardware:
- Balusters joined to the top and shoe rails with floating tenons (two per baluster to resist twisting)
- Zipbolts system connecting the rails to the newels
- Newels anchored into the floor joists with Zipbolts system
I went for a simple Craftsman look: square balusters, flat rail, no caps or turnings. I wanted to keep it clean and let the oak grain shine. The finish is a simple hard wax oil to keep the natural look.
Not a carpenter per se, more of a woodworker, but felt like this project took things to a carpentry level.
Before anyone calls out a missing handrail on the steps, I know. It’s the next thing.
Always looking for feedback. Was in rough shape, sanded it down from 80 to 180. Took the majority apart, but some screws were already set with varnish. Couldn’t get them out and don’t want to damage the wood. Any tips to get existing top coat or varnish out of screw heads?
Single pass of stain, then double coat of top coat. Does conditioner or pre strain stuff really work and make the stain take more?