r/Carpentry

This is for my first workbench build, pictured is the top frame (upside down atm). The blue diagonal is 100 1/4" the red diagonal is 99 3/4" (measured from outside corner).

I tried for the life of me to get straight boards and do. straight cuts but everything at Home Depot in town is warped and my shitty bauer circular saw is bent out of the box.. I'm curious if I can get this more square. The legs are 4x4s. I will have a bottom frame/shelf as well.

Should this area be caulked or left alone? Any tips for caulking and painting to avoid touching up cabinets besides using tape?

I bought a side table that's 11.8" deep, and I'd like to add a cable pass-through notch to the front edge of the flip-up lid (see photo), instead of only using the side opening. I want to cut a smooth half-circle opening so cords can pass through while the lid is closed. What's the best way to make that cut clean and smooth, and how can I finish the edges to match the rest?

I just moved into a new appartment. The previous owner had removed the thresholds, since that's all the rage these days, and laid new flooring.
The doors have also been replaced at some point and are a bit recessed in the wall and door trim removed.

I'm in the process of adding floor trim to the one room they left out. I decided to try and end the floor trim with a plinth block to make it less awkward.

How would you position the plinth block relative to the door frame? My gut tells me to place it like in the first picture, like 4mm to the side, but another option would be to push it over the frame and fill in the gap with caulk I guess?
I hate the gap between the flooring and door frame, so if you have any good practice for hiding that..

To be clear, I've broken many tools over the years.... But I've never snapped 1 of these cheap bastards.

Answer: far too long. ​

Installed my exterior door slightly out of square. Not always easy with the low quality cheap doors are these days. I've already foamed it, jamb extension and brick mould so I'm looking at maybe buying a new weather stripping kit that's larger? Looking at the easiest best way to fix this. Thanks

I am replacing tub due to cracking and when I pulled the tub I noticed the subfloor beneath had damage and needed to be replaced. I cut out the subfloor and I am trying to figure out how to properly support the new subfloor, specifically around the edges.

On the sides, the joists are about 5 inches back underneath the tile and wall. I am not replacing the tile. I dont think I could scab or sister them to have a proper lip. No access beneath the bathroom. Is it okay to just add blocking around the edge between the joists to add strength and prevent sag? See pic of general idea.

Hi I am redoing my shower and live in a historic home. The gap between two of the joists is 21”. Debating whether I should attempt to run a joist down the center of the two. I’m worried that I will get sagging or deflection - two pieces of 3/4 bcx, quickset and then tile ready shower pan will go on top.

Trying my hand at building a shed for my backyard. I've gotten to the point where I'm installing my 1x6 fascia(there is no sub fascia). While trying to line up the fasica to account for the roof sheathing, I've found that all the rafters are at different heights, I'm assuming because the birds mouths cuts are out. That is the easiest way to move forward? I will add that this is my first time trying anything like this, any help is appreciated.

5 years on the trade (framing) rate my setup/edc or whatever you want to call it.

Hi All.

I want to dismantle this box while keeping the pieces intact. I will try get the MDF out with a chisel. To my knowledge the ends are mitred and glued.

I have a second box I want to use the pieces from the first box as the door.

Do you have any tips for doing this? (The box seems really strong)

Thanks for reading,

-Spec

I’m trying to figure out the cleanest way to add real exterior venting for the range in this kitchen.

The stove is under a sloped A-frame ceiling, so a normal wall-mounted hood doesn’t seem like an easy fit. I’m also getting the roof replaced this fall, so I’m hoping to sort this out now in case the best option involves a roof penetration.

Main things I’m trying to balance:

• Good actual ventilation, not just a recirculating hood
• Something that works with the angled ceiling
• Not creating an awkward-looking interior setup
• Keeping the exterior roof vent as subtle as possible

For anyone who has dealt with a similar setup, what would you do here? Custom hood, hood insert, ceiling-mounted option, sidewall vent, roof vent, or something else? Also interested in anything you’d avoid.

The red X's are the approximate location from the roofline to ceiling above the range.

Anyone ever seen this before while trying to file a claim
For a Ridgid battery? I’ve had a really good experience with filing claims, although I will admit it’s not as streamlined as I think it should be. Plus, they just updated their website so now you have to be issued an RMA which wasn’t the case in the past. I’m not able to file a claim for a single 8ah battery, I’m just getting this error message. Anyone have any insights? I’ll call Monday but I’m just curious if anyone has dealt with this same issue, thanks and Happy Fourth!