r/askcarpenters

I am replacing tub due to cracking and when I pulled the tub I noticed the subfloor beneath had damage and needed to be replaced. I cut out the subfloor and I am trying to figure out how to properly support the new subfloor, specifically around the edges.

On the sides, the joists are about 5 inches back underneath the tile and wall. I am not replacing the tile. I dont think I could scab or sister them to have a proper lip. No access beneath the bathroom. Is it okay to just add blocking around the edge between the joists to add strength and prevent sag? See pic of general idea.

Hello! Bought a house and noticed a couple things that the inspector missed. There are two main problems and I would love this fine communities advice on.

1. Rail posts are loose… but they are already splitting so I am worried about tightening more and making the problem worse.

2. The rim joists has separated from the cross joists. I’m not worried about the deck being unstable because the joists overhang the beam. Would some structural screws through the fascia and rim joists, into the cross joists do the trick to pull them together?

I’m pretty sure it’s safe as long as I don’t lean on the railing right? Or am I being stupid?

Thanks!

Trying to cut the corner of the countertop so it fits below the white trim piece. Struggling to wrap my head around how to achieve that angle and depth of cut

1.75 inches thick at this portion where old doorknob and deadbolt was. Outside edge of door also effed up. Would you cut out a rectangle all the way to the door edge and replace with a new block of wood? Seems like wood putty would not be a robust fix, since new locks and knobs will need to be in the same portion of door. Techniques? Considerations? Thanks for any input.

I'm in the process of replacing the old crappy 1970's trim room by room in my house, and of course the drywall is almost 1/2" proud of the door jamb in the first room I'm working on. I've been researching ways on how to proceed, as my understanding is 1/2" gaps are way too big to fill with caulking.

Would love to hear from the experts on what is the "right" way and what is the "easier" way. I'd like to do a decent to good job, but I don't need perfection. Based on my research:

• I could pound the drywall to condense it, but I think that no amount of pounding is going to condense by 1/2"
• I could extend the jamb by ripping primed pine or similar, and use glue and/or 18 gauge nails to float the jamb, and then attach the trim to the jamb. If I go down this road, I'll need to buy a table saw (which is fine)
• I saw someone on YouTube use a foam backing rod and wood filler to fill the gap.

Any advice or recommendations is much appreciated, thank you!

Is there way to fix this , looks so bad , could not believe how trades are allowed to sign off job like that
Is there way to fis @trades please 🙏

Hello guys, I am seeking advice how to finish this roof (which was not finished by the original builder and abandoned). I hope I am in the correct subreddit.

For reference the house was built in 1883.

We need to add one more rafter on the edge so the corrugated metal roof is not hanging. Unfortunately the current last rafter is on the edge of the attic and this new "last" rafter will lay on the gable end of the house. The gable end is made from bricks / rock and we are afraid of drilling into it to add metal rods and chemical anchor.

Approximate location of the needed rafter is in the pictures marked by orange.

We can remove the edge corrugated metal roof to get access from above.

Any help is appreciated.

I finished installing this tongue and groove ceiling in my house and still need to trim the peak and edges. Wondering if anyone has any interesting or good suggestions to trim the peak at the top?

There was a faux beam there before with popcorn ceilings, but the beam was huge and poorly done so I removed it. I considered adding another smaller beam, or possibly just capping it with a flat piece of trim and maybe some accent pieces on it. I'm still debating on doing a ceiling fan or not, if not I'll likely do some kind of light fixture from the top center.

Any suggestions would be really helpful, thanks. I have patchest the base brickwork where the former beam was since this picture was taken, so no limitations there.

This engineer has been less than helpful with questions. The words say ‘strongback’ but the diagram shows bracing. I’m inclined to install 2x4 flat instead of an actual strongback here. What would you do?

These 9 items are all I got. How do I turn it into the ready table in the picture? Been trying for a while and it seems like something is missing. No instructions received or even online. Got it from Temu

I am refinishing a closet on an addition and trying to figure out how to best do the trim work. It’s where the addition meets the original house. But there is no room for the top trim. If anybody has any ideas, how to finish it off and make it look good. Please let me know. See pictures. Thanks in advance.

Im starting a kitchen renovation, and want to move my fridge out here to increase space in my small kitchen.

To put the fridge out, i would need to remove the dark wood pillars. Shown in picture # 4 Can anyone advise if this could be an issue? They are resting on flooring between joists. Basment pic # 6.

I also want to move in the feather wall as shown by the arrow in picture #5.

There is support for the 2x16 joist which appears to support the 2nd story floor where the flooring joists change directions shown in pic #2 . It rests between joists on the 1st floor shown to my best in pic #6 and #3 , can anyone tell me how/why they are getting away with no stud support in basement?

I dont understand how the structural support is working!

What would you all do!?

I’m trying to screw in a hook for a hanging lamp and want to find a joist. Problem is that I can’t find one (as evidenced by the dozen holes). When I poke through each of the holes, there’s something that stops me about 1.5 inches up. Could there be a layer of plywood between the ceiling and the joists? Or am I just doing something wrong? Stud finders don’t work on this ceiling. It just lights up red the entire time. I’ve also tried using a strong fishing magnet, and that doesn’t work either, but it does work on the wall paneling.

Found out that this header is nailed into short blocking boards?, which are sistered? to my main floor joists. No idea if this is a common practice. The main floor joists look like they came up short and they tied in these small peices to nail in the header.

Can I use joist hangers attached to this header? 3 joists about 4 feet long. If not are there other options? The lower boards of the header are nailed into the beam. The top board of the header is resting on these boards as seen, and seems to be much longer - supported by other points of contact to the left and right.

Used to be a staircase opening that I am planing on closing up and flooring.

Hi everyone. So I realize I should’ve consulted this community before but I tried posting in the official carpentry thread, but didn’t have enough karma from the subreddit.

I’m building a little frame for an indoor pup den for my dog. It’s essentially a rectangular box with gym mat material for the floor and a blanket draped over a wood frame.

I’ve really reached my budget with purchasing supplies but I’m also nervous about getting started.

I am using 2x2 (apparently in reality 1.5 x 1.5) select pine wood.

My plan: build the two rectangles with screws (2.5 inch #8), helper holes, and wood glue on the end of the boards for extra support (essentially using the screws as a clamp for the wood glue and allowing it to dry for the full 24 hours)

The problem: I’ve read that each “joint” needs 2 screws to secure hold it in place. I cannot get the depth piece of wood to fit two screws once I’ve placed the screws for the length and width.

Is this true? Could I get away with 1 screw at one joint and 2 screws at another joint? If so, should the frame get the two screws or the depth piece? Should I stagger give 2 screws to 2 length and width and 2 screws to 2 depth piece? I don’t need this thing to hold much weight (just a blanket and some stuffed animals inside) just not fall apart when I inevitably bump into it.

Other potential problem: I don’t have wood clamps or a square piece to clamp it to. I also don’t have those things that make sure your drill goes in perfectly straight.
My plan was to just use my body weight and put my knee on the piece. I’m drilling into that worked in at least the trial piece.

If you’re still here, thank you.

To reiterate, this is for a dog and doesn’t need to hold more than maybe 5 pounds for the blanket spread out over the frame to create the den.

It’s also quite possible I’m overthinking this. Wood is just expensive and I don’t want to mess this up.