r/askcarpenters

The side length shelves are pretty sturdy-ish, but the small corner shelves are wobbly.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

PS I know nothing about decks so explain like I’m 12.

I’m putting up some crown molding and can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong with my copes for the inside corners. I started with a coping saw but couldn’t quite get the hang of it, so I switched to an angle grinder with a flip pad.

Adding some pictures of the closest I’ve gotten things to fit with my practice pieces…am I not taking off enough material? I’m using a Kreg jig to hold the piece at the correct angle each time for the miter cuts.

Edit: didn’t expect this to get so much attention lol. Hopefully my DIY skills make you appreciate the apprentices a little more!

For some extra context: I was having a hard time getting the feel of where the piece should be sitting. Multiple positions felt snug to the wall. After reading through some of the comments, plan is to fit a scrap piece, measure that distance between ceiling and bottom of piece, then transfer that line down the wall as a reference. I don’t know that I’ll be jumping at the opportunity to do a follow up post though..

We are looking to remodel a home in California with an unusual height difference at the top of the staircase where the landing transitions to the stairs.

• The last gap/step is approximately 8 inches, which creates a potential tripping and falling hazard, especially for children. (We have a 6 months old and 3 year old)
• I would like to explore options to eliminate the extra step or modify the landing and staircase to make the transition safer.

Here are my exact structural constraints and measurements:

•    Total Vertical Rise: 109.5 inches (First floor to second floor finish)

•    Available Horizontal Run: 103 inches minimum, but can extend up to 127 inches max.

•    Obstruction: There is an overhanging ledge at 96 inches above the first floor, located 16 horizontal inches out from where the bottom of the stairs would sit

Are there any creative framing tricks to make the stairs safer?

I've seen a few of these decking calculator designer pages around and stumbled on this page compositedecks.com.au looks legit, can a builder do a pass on this to see if they think it's actually legit. Can I DIY using this.

Framing looks pretty good, even shows steel and aluminium options

A previous tenant damaged this door frame. Is this repairable with a patch(Dutchman?) or should the jamb be removed and replaced?

I’m also interested in figuring out what to do with the door. I like the old style mortise knob. Is it best to keep it modern or to restore it? Would I just cut plugs in the shapes of the holes?

Hey there ! This is the state of my sister's door frame (we moved into this house and the door came like this. Gotta love the landlord special !).

Her door shuts but, with the slightest touch, the door opens without having to turn the knob. You can push the door open. We have dogs and they continue to go into her room and it frustrates her so much to the point of tears :[. Is there any way of fixing this ? Even if it's shotty or doesn't look pretty, we don't care.

We attempted to put a lock plate on and it worked for a couple days... but it jammed the door, locked her out of her room, and then promptly fell off once we got the door open.

I have absolutely no idea how to go about fixing this. The most "wood working" experience I have was when I took a class in high school a couple years ago. I was thinking of filling the gap with plaster and then drilling a lock plate over it. Would that work ? I'm trying to think of cheap(er) ways of going about this.

If y'all need more pictures, let me know ! Any advice, tips, or help is so appreciated. (And if you know of any cheap power tools, please let me know ! We have none :/.) I just want to fix this for her because no one else will.

I’m building a cabinet/shelf. What type of wood should I use? I will be removing the existing wood that’s on top for plywood. Need something that can hold weight as I will be sitting things like mixer and toaster and etc on top. Thanks in advance.

I am helping my dad replace the old windows and window frames on his house. Should this old disintegrated house wrap be removed down to bare wood to the edge of the stucco or should whats left of it be integrated with the new flashing during install? The house is wrapped in tar paper which is in much better shape than the house wrap that is layered over it.

He is switching from stucco surrounding the window to 2x6 wood trim if that makes any difference.

Any advice or insight would be much appreciated!

Anyone know what kind of window balance this is and/or how to fix it?

I can slide a pinky finger under these gaps. Is there a way to make this look better without fully replacing the trim? Any recommended solutions out there - filler, caulk, etc)? Not sure that adding molding would look better than having the gaps. Advice appreciated.

Back again to ask another question about uncobbling my house. Found there used to be an opening in this wall and it now has a poorly done header left behind with strange stud spacing.

I would like to correct this and make it normal with normal stud spacing. My tentative plan is to cut away chunks of the header slowly and replace the short studs with full length studs as I do this at the proper spacing.

The bottom plate is currently in three chunks. I'd rather not remove the entire wall to fix this (it's load bearing). Do I need to worry about this being three separate boards? Do I need to do anything like option 1 or 2 here to correct?

Appreciate the help!

I'd like to use our garage ceiling space for storage (bikes, outdoor toys). The joists above (bedroom floor) are engineered iJoists, so I really don't want to hang anything from them.

Would I be able to put some 2x6 or 2x8 in joist hangers from the center beam to the inner wall with a ledger board? I'd then use the 2x6 to mount hooks, maybe some 2x4 between them for light storage and hang some bikes.