We had flooding situation in the basement. A professional mold remover came and cut most of the studs. Can I repair this by adding a baseplate and then lengthen the studs by using a plate and structural screws? Do I need sister studs in this situation? What do you recommend? Thanks in advance.
I need to make a railing for my Mom that is having mobility issues before she falls here. How should I go about doing this? Should I just notch a couple 4 x 4’s? We put one of those wall mounted safety rails up, but it became loose so we took it out. I don’t think there is a stud in that panel where we put the putty in over it. (you can see what I’m talking about in the first picture just to the left of the handle for the sliding door… I’m talking about those two holes that have been filled in).
What makes this job kind of tricky to me at least is that the side is not flush I’m not just talking about the planks overhanging but if you look at the whole side in the third picture, you can see that it’s actually two boards and one of them sticks out farther so it will be difficult difficult to mount the 4 x 4 flush without adjusting that. We want to avoid mounting it to the wall, so I was just wanting to mount it to the stairs as they are. The stairs are already movable so I wanna keep it that way. They’re pretty heavy.
Installed by a professional in the home of my 81yr old parents. At the landing the stairs turn and continue upstairs.
The pro said it's appropriate. I say one of them is gonna catch their shirt or elbow and it's unsafe.
What say you?
DIYing an attic renovation. I plan to install quarter round on the skirt (it'll continue all the way down the stairs) and a simple baseboard. I'll return the baseboard to the wall to avoid an exposed end cut. Flooring will be carpet (paying for installation); I included random carpet sample in the images for visuals.
- What is the standard distance to terminate the baseboard from the stairnose?
- Should I leave a gap between the quarter round and nose for tucking the carpet?
- Any other related advice/tips welcome!
Thanks for any help, Reddit!
I'm looking to frame in the last exposed cinder block wall in my older home's basement. As you can see from the pictures, there are various plumbing, gas and electrical in the way which prevents a header from being directly attached to the joists. Is the best way to handle this to create a dropped down header the length of the wall? Thanks in advance for your time and advice.
Recently purchased a small home. It has limited storage space in the 2 small bedrooms. It has an exterior door on the back side of the house, leading out of the primary bedroom. Was planning a master suite addition on this side of the house, but am unable due to the septic location.
For the time being, I’d like to add an 8x8 bump out addition for a walk in closet utilizing this existing exterior door. My question is, can I frame this like a deck? With a ledger on the house side and a beam with pickings on the other side? If not, why is this a bad choice? The floor joists are running the opposite direction of the bump out, so I can’t easily sister/tie in to those.
Also, should i continue one side of the bump out roof off the existing roofline? Or just add a newer slightly lower roofline? This seems easier in my head.
I am located in Northern NH for reference. What would something like this cost, DIY or contracted?
Thanks in advance!
Same piece of handrail wood. Why is it that when i cut the returns the look too skinny? How do i fix this? I just have a circular saw. Thanks!
I am trying to identify and match this trim. It's hardwood, from the 60s. It was casing a door, but it’s not standard door casing trim. I can't seem to find anything like it at my local hardware store. Trying to figure out a name so I can look for it elsewhere.
Or is this going to be impossible to find and I should just refurbish and reuse it? Thanks in advance for the help
I have this pantry door opening that is not a standard door size. On top of that the pantry extends further inside than the door opening.
Looking for advice as to whether or not I should expand this door opening, any idea of the cost? Possible to DIY?
EDIT:
Ideally I expand it because it would make the shelves more accessible
I’m using two dry wall anchors and two 6 inch screws through my desk because the clamps did not fit, it feels really sturdy I am just wondering if it will last or am I fucked
I purchased 4x8 metal ceiling mount storage racks for my garage before seriously examining the ceiling joists. Turns out I have 2x4s spaced 24 inches apart. Clearly I need to reinforce these but I'm getting mixed results on my google searches. Some say adding 2x4s on top with tie brackets perpendicular to the joists and spanning 3 or 4 joists is enough. Some say I need to sister 2x4 or 2x6, and tie in cross bracing. I'd much rather over-build it and make sure I never have any issues. Anticipate the storage racks will hold potentially up to 200 lbs, likely much less though. The racks themselves are heavy. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
Would you cut this angle and square it off? Or work with the angle? It's a weird overhang as well. She had the idea of wainscoting down the hallway.
I recently tore out a non load bearing wall but do to a few issues cant do the whole opening so instead id like to add some stained glass panels as a transom window above what will be a new threshold. I worry about the weight though and was wondering how someone with knowlendge on this might go about it.
ps. electrical has been taken care of.
pps. those are 4 windows. I will be using 3 of them
I just moved into a home from 2016 in Florida and it has a loud wall creak about every 15 minutes in my bedroom corner. The creaking really only occurs when I pump the AC at night, so assuming it's from thermal contraction and I know the specific area it's coming from. I'm a very light sleeper and it often jolts me awake while trying to fall asleep.
I just wasn't sure if this would be considered something that is solvable, preferably without tearing down the walls, or if it's something that isn't really considered fixable and I just needs to get used to it. I submitted a request to one local contractor but didn't hear anything back. Thanks for any help.
Any ideas how best to repair this? Im thinking it needs a cross brace for support. Not quite sure how to do that though. Thanks
I am having a brain block here and I could use some help. I have a piece of trim under the stairs that I would like to add to - bringing it to horizontal level. The stairs are service stairs - 49 degrees. It seemed obvious that the matching piece would be 41 degrees - but that doesn't work. The angle seems good but the molding profile doesn't match up. It's too short. I'm thinking that maybe I need to cut an acute angle but not sure how to proceed. I think I may need to add a jig to the saw set to 90 degrees - then set the saw to 41 degrees and align it with the jig instead of the saw fence. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. The black piece is a 1X that I can cut easily. The white piece of trim is the issue.