I recently bought a home that the front door is stained a reddish color. They left the stain and it's a gel stain.
The door is "mahogany textured fibreglass door"
I am wanting to stain it a walnut color... If I sand it down, I fear the wood grain texture will go away which I want to keep.... Ideas on how to go about this project? Stain to use? Etc. I would do both the indoor and exterior side.
TIA.
Repainting my front doors. Started with sanding, while doing so the top coat is flaking off. It appears the top coat was a poorly applied water based paint. (I tested with rubbing alcohol and top coat did come off onto the rag)
The base is either just factory fiberglass (*edit - appears to be steel door. Some rust under the door sweep) finish, or maybe oil based? It doesn’t come off on the alcohol rag.
Original plan was to sand off whatever flakes, then prime with what I have which is Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Primer. Will this primer suffice? Or will I need a kilz or zin cover stain? Will be topping it with BM regal exterior. Thanks for the help!
I have a small patch of mold spots near the fan in my bathroom. I am going to fix this by cutting out at 2 x 2' area around the fan and replacing that area with new drywall and refinishing it. I have all the materials I need (listed above in picture) but the one thing I can't figure out is the paint. My house is fairly new so we have all the paint that the construction workers used to paint the house, and the only white paint that we have is late and I am very sure that this isn't latex because of the way it crumbles as shown in the video in the comments. I feel like if it was painted, it would chip off in flakes, but this only crumbles like chalk. I don't know how I'm gonna color match the ceiling. I guess I'm just wondering if there even is any paint on this ceiling. I have never done anything of this sort before, so I'm just looking for any advice that any of you may have. Thank you in advance
Hi all, I am trying to paint my room a different color. When applying it to the wall there are patches that come out different shades and I wanted to know if I am doing something wrong.
We just bought a new to us home and someone used silicone caulking and of course it isn’t paintable.
Is there a fix without having to remove all of the old caulking? It was used on baseboards and door/window molding.
What type of paint / stain is best to use on stairs? Exterior but with little UV exposure. Hardwood planks. Happy to sand back to bare if required.
Priorities:
durability (won't come off when people kick the stairs coming up)
grip
many colour options
I've looked at Dulux weathershield with mixed in non slip grip additive or Cabot's timbercolor but difficult to know what will actually perform well.
If you've had good experience with a product please share :)
Picture 1 (grey/off white) is what the basement currently looks like, picture 2 is an AI mockup of what I envision.
Wall Paint: Glidden Sailors Coat (Satin)
Accent Wall/Ceiling: Behr Space Black (Matte)
Did some research and it seems like the general sentiment on darker ceilings is that they are heavily advised against.
Figured I’d make a post and gather opinions before pulling the trigger.
NOTE: the primary goal of this room is a media/entertainment center. A large flatscreen will be mounted to the accent wall. My gaming rig is in the far left corner. I plan to build a mini bar in one of the corners and have a pool/air-hockey table in the center. Arcade machines along the right side wall.
Hi! I need help deciding what color to paint my bathrooms! I’ve been in this house for three years! I’m not opposed to a color, it just needs to be muted, or an earth tone and not like “bright purple! lol
Working on “semi”-finishing my basement to use as a small playroom. Next step is to lay LVP, but I also wanted to try to paint the walls. The house was built in the 50s and the basement is poured concrete, below grade. Currently there’s mystery peeling paint presumably from the previous owner (I will make sure to check for lead). I am thinking of just scraping loose areas, priming, and painting.
Mostly looking for advice on primer type and paint type. Not super concerned with it looking too pretty just better than what it is now, will most likely be moving out in the next few years.
I live in Bellingham, WA. I'm repainting an existing deck that was originally stained with a semi-transparent oil based stain. The current state of the wood is mixed with many areas with bare wood and covered areas with the stain intact.
The contractor suggested I use PPG Proluxe solid but the base for light colors isn't available. I'm therefore considering the PPG Pro Flood solid or the BM Woodluxe solid. Both paints are water based acrylic. The plan is to power wash, sand and then paint the deck.
Which of the paints would you pick?
We are painting the exterior of our house. The painters said they cannot remove our shutters (decorative) without risking breaking them as they are wooden and nailed down into the fiberboard siding (board and batten). So the house behind the shutters will go unpainted. Does this seem right or are they trying to avoid extra steps?
We hired someone to paint the house just need help choosing a color please. He said we would want darker trim color because the trim is already dark red. I am unsure if that will look good though, I was hoping for white. I had chat gbt make a mock up of the house with black trim and I honestly don’t like it. I’m not sure what to do. Could I prime the windows and trim myself so that he can paint it white? Or what other color combinations should I consider? Or do you think the mock up looks good?
Currently have an old Wagner Capspray cs8000. It's a 3 stage. I have the #5 latex tip but never got a great finish.
I have some interior doors I need to paint, semi gloss white. Debating do I risk using my HVLP with a thinner urethane than latex OR take this as a chance to upgrade machines?
Been looking at
Graco finishpro 9.5 HVLP - can get a lightly used one for $1,300 with $500 value gun.
New Titan elite 2000
Graco GX 19
Titan ED 655
I also make tables and furniture and cabinets when time permits. Looking to be able to spray them and no longer brush them.
New construction interior: * Approx. 9,000 sq. ft. of actual Sheetrock surface * bare/new construction
For those of you who bid based on actual drywall/Sheetrock square footage, what would you charge per sq. ft. for primer + ceilings + walls on a job like this?
I usually do most of my new construction work for a house build company who normally has the drywallers prime everything, paint ceilings, then they have me come in after for paint. I also usually charge them based on their floor square footage so I want to make sure I’m bidding this job correctly and not over/under bidding. Thank you so much for the help/insight🙏🏼🙏🏼
Just closed on a house on Long Island and I am looking for a good painter that won’t break the budget! Any recommendations?!
I had a ceiling water stain I covered with 2 coats of kilz and then 2 coats of ceiling paint. However you can still see it, should I just keep adding coats of paint?
I have a plywood floor in the shop. The paint was peeling and looked awful, I used a combination of paint stripper and sanding to get it nice and cleaned up.
My boss wanted to use oil based paint. I painted it, two coats with 24 hrs in between coats as the can stated.
I let it sit for 5 days before putting anything back on top. When I drove the ATV on it the paint flaked and peeled. In other areas it started to bubble. In some areas if you stand and twist your foot it also peels.
Now two weeks out from painting the paint is still soft in areas. Which shows it didn't adhere to the plywood.
The treated plywood is roughly 10-15 years old. What would you guys recommend as next steps?
After sanding+filling+sanding it, I've already given this ceiling like 5 or 6 coats of paint but I can't make it look good no matter how hard I try. There is this big sliding glass door that is throwing grazing light into the ceiling and make it look like shit. Without direct sunlight it looks better but it's still visible.
I don't know what else to do. The last coats I made them doing small contiguous squares (like 1x1 meter?) as fast as I could to avoid painting over drying paint, but still there were visible darker areas where the squares merged I guess.
I'm using a roller and flat interior latex paint. What is creating this darker/greyer areas??
Help please, wife's patience is starting to run out
Hi
I hate the color of my front door. The house itself is a light gray with a hint of blue.
We want to deemphasize the blue so I was thinking painting the door white might work? The trim is white and the front door is pretty shadowy.
Thoughts? Thank you!
EDIT: the two pics are just to show night and day. They are the same color.
Home is in Pacific Northwest in a neighborhood with mature ponderosa pine. Recommend some colors for trim/fascia, body and garage door/pillars/front door. Likely using Sherwin Williams paints.
Body color: We are leaning towards something on green or blue spectrum (not sure if we want lighter or darker)
Garage door/pillars/front door: possibly lighter orangish/golden stain (idk)
