u/RpDubC

I have an older 3 stage Capspray cs8000 and want to upgrade. Finish is never good with it and latex always needs to be heavily thinned.

I was pretty settled on the Titan Elite 2000 since it comes with a free Hopper mail in rebate.

I have 10 door to paint, some furniture as I build it. Built in book cases. Might tackle the house since it's single story.

I was thinking on a used graco 9.5 or capspray 115 but they are still $1,000- $1,400 used. They MIGHT spray latex but do have less overspray.

The Titan Elite 2000 with hopper seems ideal. It puts out less overspray than a regular airless and I can can spray thin stuff with a tip change.

I don't want to rent one and quickshot for the price has me not interested.

Any suggestions?

Just moved into a home we bought in June after 6 weeks of major interior work. House was built in 1965 and 15-20 years ago (maybe more) the previous owners installed a "Stone Coated Shingle" roof on top of the shake shingle roof. Roof inspection wasn't bad, $1500 to fix flashing issues. Can't tell if it there's water issues. Few rafter tails need work. Single story.

I'd like to replace it and was quoted so far at $35k including gutters. One roofing company came in at $91k and then with "promos" got it down to $64k.

The metal shingles means I can't walk on it, can't add solar, can't really add a correctly attached pergola either. Doing an eventual kitchen remodel moving the front out will also be an adventure.

The attic needs a foot more insulation for sure BUT there is also no venting in the attic, can't ridge vent it the metal shingles.

My thought is replace it now because material and labor will be more in 20 years. If we go to sell it then and the roof is worse, that will hurt resale. Also, a new roof will eliminate the issues I mentioned above.

What does the roofing community think? I imagine heating and cooling would be better with a new roof and adding foil backed sheathing too.

Bought a 1965 house and doors are original. Came across about a doze shaker style doors that will work, $100 a door. Was going to jump on the deal BUT then it hit me, it's not a guarantee the hinges will and/or mortises on the new used doors will line up with the jambs on my existing doors right?

What would be the best solution for that?

Currently have an old Wagner Capspray cs8000. It's a 3 stage. I have the #5 latex tip but never got a great finish.

I have some interior doors I need to paint, semi gloss white. Debating do I risk using my HVLP with a thinner urethane than latex OR take this as a chance to upgrade machines?

Been looking at

Graco finishpro 9.5 HVLP - can get a lightly used one for $1,300 with $500 value gun.

New Titan elite 2000

Graco GX 19

Titan ED 655

I also make tables and furniture and cabinets when time permits. Looking to be able to spray them and no longer brush them.

I’ve sprayed thinned latex through an older 2 or 3 stage hvlp with some success. Have the largest needle.

I need to spray a pair of 10 lite pocket doors and a matching 10 lite bedroom door.

Color needs to match ultra pure white semi gloss.

Is there a white lacquer I should use instead of thinning this latex?

Could always setup an airless but the I hate the cleanup.

Just moved homes and counter space is lacking. I’ve been looking up coffee bar stations and I’d say 95% are 15.7” for some reason.

My dinamica plus is 16.9” deep.

Anyone have luck finding something that fits a super auto machine?

I have these larger 10 lite pocket doors, 36” each. They are primed and film is on the glass.

Taking them out can be tricky and there’s a chance the track can get lost back in the pocket I think, not ideal.

I think I can move the track stop over so I can paint the entire door BUT about 1/4” on the top is covered by molding. No one would see it if not painted.

Would masking off really well and spraying work? I’d be able to spray inside pocket too.

I need to add a 100a sub panel to my garage. Plan to put in a few 20a and 30a 220v outlets for 2hp-6hp wood working tools and some regular 110v outlets. Going with a 100a panel for future proofing (welder and ev charger possible)

Main panel is 65ft feet away.

1-1-1-3 will work for the sub panel correct? Will be running 3ft down then under the house for 65ft then into garage.

2” conduit I’ve determined is probably best for easy pulling and more room for future?

What breakers do I need coming off the main?

What wire do I need to get to run from the main on side of house to inside the garage for a 100amp sub panel? I'll be running the wire under the house and straight into the garage.

The 100amp sub panel will be used to power some 5-6.5hp tools. The only two tools that will be running at the same time would be a 3hp dust collector and a planer, or table saw. Probably 60 amps total between then two.

I’ve rolled 9 of 16ft pieces of trim. First few I was using a 3/8 nap and didn’t like the texture I was getting. I switched to a 1/4 nap and some flotrol and it’s a little better.

I’ve only ever painted trim installed with a brush. A pain taping off floor but the finish is better.

I have an older hvlp with a latex tip. It’s only a 2 stage so not ideal for latex but will spray it if thinned a little.

Should I spray the rest? It would be a lot faster to spray the rest. Not sure on the finish. Gotta imagine the same at least as the the roller.

Or should I just roll the rest?

I have 800sqft of laminate to lay. Entry, kitchen and two living spaces. I’ve laid floor before. This time I’m on a time constraint and my semi retired contractor father is getting one of his guys to lay it for about $2 a sqft. I did all the demo, tearing out 300sqft of hardwood oak that was on top of 2 layers of linoleum and particle board. The. Removed 3 layers of linoleum and particle board in kitchen. Removed all staples. Took out the squeaks by screwing down the subfloor better (house built in 60s).

I could lay the floor a pro would certainly get it done faster and without issue.

Just tough cuz I wanted to be the one to lay my own floor.