The uncomfortable part nobody wants to say is that not every contractor selling heat pumps is actually designing heat pump systems. Some are still doing furnace brain math, swapping boxes, throwing a bigger unit at the house, and hoping the inverter saves them. That worked okay when the weather was mild and rebates made customers forgiving. But once you get real cold snaps, weird humidity, shoulder season complaints, and homeowners staring at utility bills, the gap gets ugly fast. I’ve been paying way more attention to all climate heat pump performance lately, not just the pretty rating sheet. Stuff like defrost behavior, low temp capacity, backup heat staging, duct static, and whether the installer actually commissions the thing. I’ve seen a couple Midea EVOX installs where the extreme weather performance looked better than people expected, but the bigger point is not “buy this one box.” It’s that the contractor matters more than the badge on the cabinet.

2026 might not be a bloodbath because heat pumps are bad. It might be a bloodbath because too many companies sold them like simple AC swaps. Am I being dramatic or is everyone else seeing the same split between real design and box moving?

I started checking my AC system before the real heat hits. So far I’ve cleaned/replaced the filter, checked the fins, cleared debris around the outdoor unit, and made sure the drain line looks okay.

I’m curious what everyone else does for pre-summer AC maintenance. Are there any things most homeowners forget to check?

Do you guys do maintenance yourselves or just schedule a yearly HVAC service?

Also interested in hearing about the small things that made a noticeable difference in cooling performance or electric bills. Trying to avoid problems before the first major heat wave hits.

Hey everyone - turned my “AC” on this past Monday as temps were to hit 90+ and after a few hours the inside temp had risen, barely cool air was blowing.

Service tech came out today and determined that there is a leak somewhere and said that repairing the unit is very expensive/time consuming and we are probably better off replacing. Unit is 13 years old, Fingerlakes NY area so temps range from below zero to upper 90’s. ~2,000 sq ft house with a basement, and 2 stories.

Just some general questions to make sure I’m not getting taken advantage of:

1. Does the furnace need to be replaced at the same time? Makes sense that it does, but want to confirm.

2. Is it truly that expensive to find the leak and repair the unit vs replacing it?

Thanks!

2700 sq ft. 4 level home, half is split level and half is basement with a main level. I am looking at replacing furnace (> 30 yr old Lennox Pulse Furnace, still works but efficiency has gone down) and AC (> 20 yr old, quit working), and received 2 quotes. To give you an idea of my weather, see the screenshots below, avergae daily air temp is below ~35 F from December - May with Jan - Mar is sub zero monthly temps.

Option 1) Trane 80K BTU 2-stage 96% FUE Gas Furnace + Trane 2.5 Ton 13.4 Seer 2 central air conditioner for $12,132.00 (amount after deducting all possible rebates and discounts)

Option 2) Bryant 60K BTU Preferred 2-stage 97% FUE Furnace + Bryant 37MUHAQ24AA3 (2 Ton Crossover Heat Pump) + Bryant  CAAMP2517AMA Coil + Honeywell  YTHX9421R5127WW thermostat for $11,200.00 (after deducting all possible rebates and discounts)

Looking for some insights from the group. My biggest concern is choosing a crossover heat pump over the traditional het pump or regular A/C. Thank you so much!

https://preview.redd.it/9t0wqnyq3c2h1.jpg?width=910&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f9d09cd42f7dd02f2d49cdab968838b1baceec1e

https://preview.redd.it/p6xnpmyq3c2h1.jpg?width=900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=067ce4488ed8d9237ef4dae28274b5b8a728cb33

I live in Minnesota and am converting my detached garage into a workshop. Approximately 575 sqft, 9 foot ceilings, R13 in walls, R49 in ceiling, insulated garage door with green hinges and draft sealing. Basically, about as insulated and sealed as a garage can get without building from scratch.

I don't really care about cooling capacity, but I'd like to keep the garage in the 50-60F range for most of the winter. This includes weeks of single digit temps. I've estimated I need about 24k but of heating for this, but I'm thinking I may pay for a CoolCalc to get a more confident Manual J calculation to verify.

I've been researching mini splits and have determined that the Blue Ridge XS5 24k BTU appears to have the best cold weather performance and HSPF2 Region V rating among the "direct to consumer" mini splits. Their XS6 18k BTU has great cold weather performance and efficiency as well, but I'm worried it won't have the oomph for deep winter and they don't have a 24k BTU option.

I don't need a DIY option, I'm comfortable renting the equipment to vac the line sets. I have received multiple quotes for this between $8-12k which to me is absolutely obscene. They try to really sell me on the warranty but I can replace a unit 2-3 times over for that price. I'm open to any brand or model that sells directly to consumer and has good support. Alpine Home Air has blown me away with their support so far.

Anyone here successfully running a hot water recirculation pump with a GE GeoSpring Heat Pump Water Heater (with the integrated electronic mixing valve)?

My house already has a dedicated hot water return line plumbed near the water heater. I recently replaced my old gas water heater with the GeoSpring, and I’m trying to figure out the best/safest way to connect the recirc pump return.

What I’m unsure about:
- If I connect the recirc return to the cold water inlet, will the GeoSpring throw errors because the incoming “cold” water is warm from recirculation? (thinking about the electronic mixing valve and temp sensors)
- Alternative idea: connect the return line to the drain port at the bottom of the tank. But I’m not sure if there’s an internal check valve or restriction that would prevent proper flow back into the tank.

If you have this working, could you share:
- Pump model
- Where you tied the return line back in
- Any check valves / bypass valves used
- Whether the HPWH complains or operates normally
- I understand recirculation increases energy usage and reduces HPWH efficiency a bit, but in this case I’m willing to trade some efficiency for comfort/convenience.

Would really appreciate hearing from anyone with a working setup or lessons learned.
Thanks!

About a month ago, I made a post asking for help and information about whether to replace my home’s 20+ year-old furnace with heat pumps. I’m grateful to everyone who commented and shared their thoughts and experiences. I read all the responses, even if I didn’t reply, so here’s my answer short and long versions.

Previous post link

Are heat pumps really worth it in cold weather?
Yes… but also no.

Let me explain.

My project was for a single-family home in Boston, 1,300 sq ft, good insulation in all floors (confirmed), semi-finished basement, and triple/double-pane windows less than 10 years old. Since the house already has ducts, I thought installing heat pumps would be straightforward for both heating and cooling, I was really looking forward for the AC for hot days like today, when it hit 103 °F.

Do heat pumps work in cold weather?
Yes, very efficiently, 3 or 4 times more than a traditional heating systems, there are studies about that, but the problem is, it heavily depends on : 1- the home’s precondition (insulation, windows) and 2. Who installs them and how.

Some people commented and questioned the system and how reliable they are, some other the electric charge in MA (30 -35 cents), but for me.....

The BIG problem was : pricing and contractors.

Over the past month, I read testimonials, used the heat pump calculator, and reviewed studies. I sought recommendations for contractors in MA and got not ONE or TWO, FIVE, i got FIVE separate evaluations and project proposals, and honestly, disappointed.

The five proposals were very different, with questionable costs. I asked for estimates for heat pumps only and for a hybrid system (based on some suggestions). My shock when I saw the prices ranged from $18,000 to $50,000, and each contractor proposed a solution based on what they thought was best, ignoring my requests.

Three contractors said “they could use the existing ducts and complete the work in a day”. But two of them rejected using the ducts for heat pumps, claiming “they were old and unsuitable.” Those same ones recommended mini splits and dismissed my suggested solutions from the previous 3 other contractors, warning that the current ducts would cause condensation in summer. The said replacing the ducts would add about $20,000 to the project, and just told me to move with mini splits

Each contractor criticized the others. Any questions I asked (based on what the others told me they would do) were met with responses like, “I’ve been doing this for 10–20 years, I know what I’m doing,” or “The other contractors don’t know these stuff.” One even claimed HVAC contractors meet behind closed doors to keep prices in a profitable range and then had the audacity to send me the most expensive proposal: $47,000 for four mini split heads and a condenser, without even checking the house’s electrical load.

After talking to all contractors and comparing opinions, I have so many doubts that I don’t know who to trust, it’s either:

1. You’re sending a proposal without identifying potential barriers or future problems.
2. You’re sending a proposal ignoring future problems, just chasing the installation payment.
3. You’re sending the easiest installation proposal.

Any of these options is bad.

So yes, while heat pumps are efficient, finding a skilled and honest contractor in My area is a real pain in the.... Prices are also ridiculously high, making potential future savings minimal compared to a gas furnace and condensing unit.

This process has been frustrating, discouraging, and disappointing. My last option is to contact manufacturers directly and see what they recommend. If not, I’m seriously considering getting my HVAC certification and doing it myself. The good thing is that I might get my own data on annual KWh and Therms and use it later if I upgrade to heat pumps.

So, good luck to anyone looking to install heat pumps and thanks for reading. Part 3, Maybe. In a year.

Hi all, and thank you for any advice or feedback on the following quotes :) I'm incredibly overwhelmed by all the options and need some guidance.

---

(A) Company 1 / Quote 1: Innovair - $24,000

• 4x MHW09H2BHRB (9k BTU)
• 1x MHW18H2BHRB (18k BTU)
• 2x MOM27H2BM4B (27k BTU 4-zone outdoor condenser) [one would have 1x 9k + 1x 18k connected; other would have 3x 9k connected]

• 10 year manufacturer warranty on parts; 1 year parts and labor warranty from company

This brand makes me the most nervous, but is naturally cheaper. Does anyone have any experience with Innovair?

(B) Company 2 / Quote 1: Carrier - $30,000

• 3x 45MAHAQ09XA3 (9k BTU)
• 1x 45MAHAQ06XA3 (6k BTU)
• 1x 45MAHAQ18XA3 (18k BTU)
• 1x 37MGHAQ48FA3 (48k BTU outdoor condenser) [all heads connected to single condenser]

• 10 year manufacturer warranty on parts; 1 year parts and labor warranty from company

(C) Company 2 / Quote 2: Mitsubishi - $35,000

• 3x MSZ-FX09NL (9k BTU)
• 1x MSZ-FX06NL (6k BTU)
• 1x MSZ-FX12NL (12k BTU)
• 1x MXZ-SM48NAMH2 (48k BTU outdoor condenser) [all heads connected to single condenser]

• 12 year manufacturer warranty on parts; 1 year parts and labor warranty from company

---

Context: I'm in my first home in Massachusetts built in 1890, ~2k sqft. The house has no existing cooling system and no ducts. It has an oil furnace with steam radiators for the primary heat source.

Goal: To install mini-splits for cooling, primarily, but we'll use the heating in Spring/Fall when the radiators feel like overkill and also use it in specific rooms in the Winter when we don't need the whole house warm.

Size: Five heads total. Four of them will be in smaller rooms (bedrooms, offices). One will be in a larger space that will cover the living room, dining room, kitchen (there are no doors here).

---

Worth noting that Company 1 is newer to HVAC, but an established and trusted electrician.

I'm curious to hear any immediate reactions to these quotes. Obviously Mitsubishi would be the best, but it is really worth the 45% price increase over Innovair?

Thanks so much

I’m in the Seattle area and am replacing a 25+ year old gas furnace (Trane XV80) + AC (Rheem 3.5 ton) in a 3200 sqft two story home. I am getting several quotes and one I like the most so far is from a Mitsubishi Diamond Contractor specifying the following for about $18k:

* Heat pump: Mitsubishi PUZ-AK42NL (42k BTU variable speed Hyper Heat)
* Furnace: American Standard S9V2 (80k BTU, 2-stage, variable speed, 96% AFUE)
* Coil: Mitsubishi PAA-BA42NL (42k BTU evaporator)
* Thermostat: Mitsubishi wireless
* Filter: Honeywell MERV 11

Install includes nitrogen brazing on line set, pressure test, 350 micron vacuum, sub-cooling charge verification, pad with anti vibration mounts, permits and inspection. 2 year labor with extended warranty available.

Two questions:

1. Thoughts on the specified equipment and quote?
2. Thermostat options? I have a 3rd Gen Nest with remote sensor (upstairs) which I like. I have read not great things about the Mitsubishi thermostat, though the PAC-SDW01RC-3 doesn’t look terrible (not sure if it will work with the system), but also the proprietary protocol needing a special communicating thermostat. I’ve also read about the PAC-US445CN-1 thermostat adaptor and wonder if that’s an option, or any of the Honeywell ElitePRO or Ecobee thermostats?

Thanks for any advice!

Looking for advice on a heat pump issue because we’re getting nowhere with the installer.

We have a slab home in Central British Columbia, Canada, with the main living space on the upper floor. The house is around 2700 sqft and built in 2007 with original everything.
In Nov 2025 we replaced our old furnace + AC with a new heat pump/furnace combo system.

Right away it felt like the heat pump struggled to properly heat the house in colder weather, so I adjusted the thermostat settings to have the furnace kick in whenever it’s 5°C (41°F)or below.

Then when we first started trying to cool the house this spring, the heat pump would not cool properly if our Google Nest thermostat was set to the “Heat/Cool” auto mode. We had to manually switch it to either Heat only or Cool only to get it to work at all.

Now that warmer weather has arrived, the main house cannot get below 24°C (75°F)during the day if it’s above about 26°C (79°F)outside. The thermostat is set to 21°C (70°F), but the indoor temperature slowly climbs all afternoon and only starts cooling after the sun goes down.

Our previous AC system did not seem to have this problem.

The HVAC company has been back three times now, and each visit the tech was here for more than 6 hours. They originally blamed the Google Nest thermostat and insisted we replace it with an Ecobee, which we did and it cost over $300, but it has not seemed to made difference other than we can run it in heat/cool mode.

At this point I’m trying to figure out:

• Does this sound like an undersized heat pump?
• Could this be an airflow or installation issue?
• Is there a common setup/configuration issue with heat pump + furnace combo systems that could cause this?
• Is it normal for a newer heat pump system to cool noticeably worse than an older AC unit?

Any ideas on what I should be asking the HVAC company to specifically check?

Bit the bullet and purchased a 2.5 ton HyperHeat H2i for my daughter's condominium adjacent to mine.

My identical HyperHeat with closet-mounted SVH air handler went through the entire Midwest US winter this year without using its resistive heat kit. That included some -5F mornings.

The HyperHeat installed today (5/19/26) is a R-454 system rather than the R-410 one installed 18 months ago on my condo. These systems appear to be outwardly identical.

I preinstalled the wiring before the HVAC contractor arrived. I included the three 14AWG conductors that are required to backfeed power and signalling from the outdoor unit to the air handler. This power/signalling back feed loop was contained in the same conduit as the 240VAC/30amp power leads to the outdoor unit.

The installing HVAC tech nixed my in-the-conduit power/signalling loop in favor of a separate 14AWG/4 conductor power/signalling flex cable that he taped to the copper line set.

I asked why the separate power/signalling loop, and he replied that Mitsu prefers that the power/signalling loop be isolated physically and electrically from the 240VAC/30 amp loop that powers the outdoor unit. He noted that I shared the 10AWG grounding conductor between the these two loops.

I questioned the durability of his taped-to-the line set power/signalling loop due to its exposure to UV in sunlight, but in the end I relented.

Installation happened in about 12 man-hours of labor. Total project cost to me was US$12.5k and included hand building some warm air plenum ducting above the air handler, MHK-2 thermostat, and an AprilAire passive air filter rack.

I will soon have 24 months of data on my electric vs. natural gas use for the 12-months before and 12-months after installing a heat pump. Does anyone know of a good Excel model to compare the energy use and energy cost with this data? Just to be clear, I will have electric solar generation therms, electric purchase therms, natural gas therms and the respective fixed and energy costs for electric and natural gas. Any help is appreciated.

I was reading another post talking about heating their bath with a heat pump. It got me thinking why don’t warmer countries in Middle East and South East Asia heat their swimming pool with the heat pump and hang the cool external unit indoor for cooling?

Looking to install a heat pump into the house we just purchased. The House is on the larger side, with ~3900sqft of finished space with hydronic heating in the basement powered by gas hot water heaters, and gas furnace for the main and 2nd floor. Also have a 3 car garage I would like to install heat into. We live in the Edmonton Alberta region which can have some stretches of hot summer weather (couple weeks of +30 to occasional +35c), but also notoriously brutal winters with weeks near or below -30c, with some rare days below -40c.

I am considering Mitsubishi since is often touted as strong option for cold climates being able to operate 100% to -15c and maximum to -30c. It is also a Long standing brand with great reputation and tons of technicians experienced with them.

I recently discovered Arctic Heat pumps ( Arctic Heat Pumps | Cold Climate Air-to-Water Hydronic Systems ) which claim going down to -35c which would cover 99.9% of all days in the year and genuinely seem like a great integrated option with their hydronic heating options. However, I have never heard of them before and they seem relatively new. Are they simply a rebadged brand? Or are they a new up and coming company with great technology? Anyone have experience with them? Reliable and worth it? Or something to avoid?

absolutely losing my mind trying to get someone to put a proper cold climate unit in my 1980s build. i spent weeks doing manual j calculations and zeroed in on exactly what i need based on the neep cold climate heat pump qualified list local distributor 2026 update. i finally found a guy willing to come out and he took one look at my numbers and just started laughing saying the state data is total garbage and i absolutely need gas backup because my house is too drafty. i tried explaining that the whole point of these new qualified units is they maintain capacity at sub zero temps but he completely talked over me saying paper specs dont heat homes.

im so frustrated because im trying to do the right thing for efficiency but every contractor treats me like an idiot who read too many blogs. has anyone else dealt with this level of pushback from old school installers and how did you finally get them to just do the job you are paying them for?

Like the title says, i have a home in SE Pennsylvania and our current heat pump just can't keep up. We have a ~2000 sq ft home and our current model (TOSOT TU36-24WADU) left us freezing last winter.

I'm looking for any advice on recommended brands/models. I ran through several different calculations online and my best guess is I need something with a 60k btu/h capacity. I was initially looking at the TOSOT HP-A60 series but would love feedback on that.

Also, if anyone knows a good installer in this county i'd be very thankful!