r/ebikes

So, we had heavy rain, flood like, and it shined. The bike that is, I am liking it day by day but it's rusting. I usually throttle and then pedal because it has some weight. We have frequent weather down pour. Sudden down pour and it stops. So I decided not to throttle and peddle uphill with just muscle because there is lag and I wanted to test, I had the gear at the lowest rung, it skipped I think. What you guys think?

So I took my first longer trip with my bike after 250 miles to see what the true range was on my bike. I had my saddle bags and my trailer hooked up with my tent tarp air mattress and small cooler cause I'm thinking over fall I wanna go camping. It was about 50 lbs on back rack with saddle bags and about 100 110 lbs with trailer. Trailer is one of the ones that convert to cart with brakes and has like 16 inch tires for easier pull and travel also has a shock system to not be so hard on cargo and bike when traveling. There were a lot of hills steep enough that I had to pedal up hill. I noticed my converter was getting really hot a little over half way to my destination which was a total of 10-15 miles it started to kinda putt putt after I tuned off bike and let it cool, like start the current and start going then I would hear a click from back tire and it would stop. Same thing happened when I pedaled it would start at the top of the pedal and turn off like a second later. I later realized if I pedaled up to like 18-20 mph the motor would kick in and work normally. I spent 2 days riding it around unplugging wires to motor and plugging them back in still acting the same. Went to work today same thing but it started to act like it wanted to be a normal ebike again. On way back from work like halfway home it started working normal again. I can now slow to a stop and it works when I pedal or pull the throttle. Gonna turn off take off battery let it sit tonight and see what happens tom.

What could this be? Is it something that's fixable. I think I still have a warranty and I got it imported from Walmart online store so I got the protection plan from like all state or whatever insurance company does online Walmart store. Is this something after the weekend I should email both parties and let them know this happened?

Guess I just wanna know what path I should take cause I know the foreign warranties can be a pain in the but that's why I got the protection plan figured worse case I'll just call the insurance up and ask a new one free parts or a refund. I also do have a next door neighbor that works on cars mowers kids electric cars and stuff so if I have to repair I do have somewhere I can go to be watched to make sure I don't destroy my bike. Ive also built my own computers and worked in the low voltage security install field so I'm not completely dumb to low voltage electricity I just have never worked on an ebike.

Sry for the essay considering this could mean I don't have a way to work if I have to send it back for like a month I wanna make sure I give all info needed about issue to get the best answers.

Anyone have any recommendations on brands or websites??

Hello all,

I’m purchasing an Ebike in December and selling my car. My commute to work is 5-8 minutes on a bike and my commute to school is 25-30 on a bike.

My budget is $2.5k but that also includes purchases for necessary gear like a book bag to hold my shit, helmet, elbow + knee pads, poncho, etc.

Need recommendations for something that can go up to 28 mph, has decent range, and is better for a bigger guy, I’m 6’2” 210 lbs and with a book bag, I’ll be 230-250 max.

So I got my e bike 2 days ago and it already has an error code 09. The front break woudnt word so I tied it around the handle bars and when I tried putting it in the right way it gave me error code 09. What do I do to fix it

I don’t understand why (reputable)companies stopped or just don’t make 52v 1000w e-bikes anymore. I got Wired’s first Freedom model, back when they were still called “WICKED”, which was advertised as 60v god knows how many watts, maybe 1200 at the time, and my wife got the XClass Step Thru, and I mean that AR just out classes the Freedom in every way. After a 32 mile pedal assist only ride, she still had 2/5 of battery left while the freedom was completely drained. It reaches its top speed just as fast as the Freedom does (37mph)

And now days if you want a 52v battery with at least a 1000w motor, your options are limited to dual motors or paying upwards of $2.5k for something without all the amenities AR offered (brake lights, head lights, turn signals, dual suspension) I personally like to bike in PA1 usually and enjoy having long range rides. Whereas from my understanding, if you want longer range out of a dual motor, you are most likely running it in single motor mode, if you even have the option to do so.

And I won’t settle for “if you ride at PA1 and for longer range, get a 48v 1000w+ bike” when AR has made exactly what I wanted. Just wish other companies would make bikes with that drive train in 26”+ tires, dual suspension with all the other bells and whistles.

Let's stop pretending that sidewalks are more dangerous than riding on the road.

And let's increase the penalties for killing cyclists, even if unintentional.

No cause has been established but, texting while driving is more dangerous than driving under the influence. The penalties should reflect that.

I don’t feel safe. I can’t even doordash. Try going down Gratiot avenue on a 20 mph bike? Do you want to get turned into paste? I’m so scared. There’s very few paths to take and most of the roads lead to 55 mph stroads that aren’t safe.

Not even the sidewalks are that safe sometimes. They’re often not maintained so they’re dangerous to ride a bike on.

So, I am still testing this thing out to get a full idea on range. Since I have two batteries that I switch out, it's been difficult to precisely work put exactly how far I can go. I had worked it out to approximately 22-23 miles, but got a flat tire on my way back.

Lo & behold, I hunt down a shop that will do repairs, as it's an ebike (I don't have the tools to do a bike repair at home at the moment & figured I was out money either way.), drive an hour out the way. The guy calls the next day & tells me that he noticed several issues with it I was having trouble following & fixed them for free. He didn't think they were broken, he just thought I had a crappy ebike & felt bad about me operating it without those things fixed. Just tested it &, somehow, my range appears to have extended at least 4 miles, possibly more. I had to stop & turn back because I encountered a mild drizzle, but was barely more than 1 mile away from the absolute limit I was willing to take the thing. Made it close enough back home before switching the batteries, I was still able to put it on high. So, I was 1 mile short of maximum distance & it made it over 12 miles further on the way home before I had to switch batteries.

No clue what the guy did other than fix my seat- which I am also thankful for, at least it stays where I put it now- & by my math, one mile short on the round trip translates to 2 miles one way, so the extra 12 miles I went on the one battery minus 2 divided by 2 gives me 5 miles added to a round trip from where I stopped, so the bike has gotten at least 4 miles added to its range, whatever they did. Lol I don't think I wasn't inflating the tires enough, but if that turns out to be the only reason for the extra milage, I am going to feel like an idiot.

Hello everyone. I've been having a quite stranger issue with a BBS02B motor. The PAS is not working, not even for a couple of seconds, the throttle is fine and I think all the usual suspects have been tested.

- I'm not using a screen, nor speed, brake, or shifting sensors, and using the Daniel Nilsson in the default PAS mode with throttle enabled not overdriving pas, but it didn't work before with the stock firmware it had. I'm using a common 10K variable resistor as a throttle and it works fine.

- I've removed the PAS board, changed its wires, tested, reenameled, and the magnet wheel is good. Also I've changed the pas board connector to screw on connectors so I could debug. And the PAS signals in both sensors look fine to me when rotating the crank. Also has 5V on the pas power.

- I've got to the extension of removing the silicone in the circuit area of the controller and patching into the microcontroller inputs for the pas and the shifting voltages arrive there! I'm in doubt that even if the mcu was bad it would not answer fine to programing and throttle and the signals in the mcu input for pas would be shorted to 0V. Daniel Nilsson said in his documentation that those inputs are pull up to 5V by 5Kohm and have a series resistor to the MCU of 3KOhm, all looking fine in the board.

-I've added a 220uF capacitor to the 5V rail and connected the 5V rail of the MCU to the PAS, everything looks the same.

- It looks that if i drive and wait with no assistance the pas tries to start for a short split second once in a while.

I don't know if I'm missing something with the configuration or really there may be an issue with the pas signal that you can't see when turning the crank slowly by hand.

Just in case i'll tell you the PAS in BBS02 has two hall sensors out of alignment by a couple of mm with two inputs to the controller, so it knows which way you are turning the crank. I've tested both directions also.

Ideas? Is there some way to monitor the MCU input that is received in circuit using the programing cable? Maybe there is something I don't understand and may have not tested in the configuration?