I have a Kuat on a 1.25" receiver attached to a Mazda 3. Looking at an Aventon Rambla (60+ pounds).
What has been your experience with carrying one or two ebikes on a 1.25" hitch?
I know a bit more about it than he does, since I own an electric scooter and an e-bike I built myself.
However, I don't want to give him advice unless I'm 100% sure. Could anyone tell me if all these components are compatible?
They have ports I'm not familiar with—specifically the battery, which has a "JST" port, and the motor, which doesn't seem to have phase wires.
Could someone shed some light on this?
Thanks.
What brand bike is this or does anyone have any available information
Got a 3000w 72v ukc1 e bike
Found this when I was taking the wheel off. The ebike dosen’t work currently. There is no obvious way to open the motor to get more access. Is it saveable?
So, I have a 14ah battery and we were able to do 20MPH with pedal assist at 3. I was shocked, this human is 245lbs and the other human was 145lbs. The problem not problem. It was able to speed up and brake. It's 1100 watt bafang motor with allow wheels. Not only I drop off the dude, I still have power to go extra 30 minutes after a hour ride. Huh?
We had to take off the crate so he can sit
EDIT, stop being shocked, I think I interested in motors, what would you choose?
Ive been looking into a middrive conversion kit for my bike. Just started researching and it seems like tongsheng and Bafang were popular a year or two ago but am having trouble finding more current reviews/advice. Have these fallen out of favor? Would most people recommend just buying an as-built ebike?
My current bike frame:
I wanna start doing DoorDash as leave my other job (horrible management demands too Much even tho I do everything doesn’t even listen etc) and I wanna do it while I look for other jobs in the meantime but I do want some dough before I search for other jobs
I've been comparing different e-bikes and it's harder to decide than I expected. Every model seems to have its own strengths, whether it's battery range, ride comfort, motor performance or overall reliability.
For those who already own one, what convinced you to buy it, and has it lived up to your expectations?
If you could start over, would you choose the same bike again or go with something different?
I want to get a ebike so I can earn some
Dough but idk much about e-bikes and I want to buy one to traverse my city
Preferably something that can be serviced at a local bike shop and has a top speed of 20-28mph. The only big brand bike I’ve been able to find where both passengers are seated on the same level is the Retrospec Valen Rev+? Most of the top models have the passenger at a lower level or also far away from the rider. My wife will be the passenger at 5'6" 130lb. I'm 5'8" 195 for reference. Thanks in advance for the help.
Hey guys!
Im a Melbourne based rider who absolutely hated how ugly my conversion battery block looked on my frame, so I started designing these premium fabric wrap prototypes.
They add weatherproof protection and winter insulation while giving the battery a clean, custom profile.
These images are just our first design concepts to see what the community thinks - We have an entire lineup of different styles on the way, including sleek minimalist stealth looks and elegant vintage leather finishes.
I'm manufacturing a stricly limited first batch right here in Melbourne soon.
If anyone wants to lock their name onto our initial local drop list for Drop 01, I set up a completely free and simple sign up page. If anyone wants the link to lock their name down or check out the project, just drop a comment below and I'll dm it straight to you👇
Which of these initial styles would you run on your builds? And what other colours or prints should we add to the lineup? Let me know below 👇
Not only can I not destroy this rear wheel with a lot of hard starts and stops with copper brake pads, bashing the rear wheel into roots, rocks, and stone walls; and doing pretty sizable drops for this sort of bike- what’s even weirder is that both the rear wheel and front wheel are seemingly self regulating *because* the spokes are twisted in opposite rotations to each other.
Those are cheap ass 14g Amazon carbon steel spokes with aluminum nipples. That’s a 750W motor with a trials grade jumpy throttle. I didn’t preconceive or premeditate this idea. I only tried twisting spokes 180˚︎ the first time to try and shorten up some spokes that were too long to build a front wheel. And not the one pictured- here’s where there’s some empirical evidence gained from fucking it up just right the first time.
The first front wheel I built that way was twisted the opposite direction, and the spokes would keep loosening up, but I noticed the way the rim would spin a little further then the hub when the brakes were locked up.
So then I thought if I did that to a rear wheel maybe I’d not mash so many planetary gears and lock up clutches when my rear wheel hit some sort of hard stop under power.
And as it happened I twisted the spokes of that wheel the opposite direction of the one pictured. And none of the spokes broke- but they would actually unthread themselves because apparently there’s enough torsional spin on the pair of spokes to twist them in the nipples.
So now the set on this bike that are twisted to respond to accelerative force on the rear wheel, and the force of braking on the front wheel- the things have been beat to shit for weeks and it seems like the tension is more even than when I built them and they’re miraculously true.
It’s weird because I was snapping four spokes at a time before on hard landings and despite my best efforts I can’t seem to trash this set of wheels or even knock them out of alignment- and I’m trying really hard nearly every day 😂
I don’t know who TF else would ever try this or have any reason to but it’s a really interesting emergent phenomenon that seems to be consistently bearing out with my best intuitive attempts to understand why it keeps working so well.
Hi everyone,
I'm hoping someone has experienced something similar.
I have a Trek District+ 1 with a Bosch system.
Yesterday I had the crank arms replaced at a bike shop. After picking the bike up, everything worked perfectly. The motor assist was normal and I could change the assist level without any issues.
After riding for about 9 minutes, the motor suddenly stopped assisting. At the exact same moment, the display background turned grey, almost as if the system lost communication with something.
Since then:
I took it back to the bike shop today. Three mechanics looked at it and connected it to the Bosch diagnostic software.
The strange part is that there are no fault codes at all. The diagnostics don't show any obvious problem, and the mechanics said they've never seen this happen before. They are now contacting Bosch and Trek for advice.
The speed sensor and spoke magnet both appear to be in the correct position, so it doesn't seem to be a simple sensor alignment issue.
Has anyone experienced anything similar? Could this be a faulty display, remote/controller, wiring harness, motor controller, or some kind of CAN bus communication issue that doesn't log an error?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Hello!! Tomorrow i am going to check a soltera 2.5 with 200 miles on it, we agree on $750 with the rear rack, is it a good deal?? First ebike. Thank you.
Is that a good bike??
Hey everyone,
I’m troubleshooting a front hub motor failure on a Maxfoot MF-19 and hit a technical wall tracking down component specs. After tearing things down, I found two clear issues on the boards.
1. Internal Motor PCB (Hall Board)
The Issue: Inside the hub motor, surface-mount capacitors C1 and C5 are completely missing, leaving behind scorched pads.
2. External Speed Controller
The Issue: A wire has torn completely clean off its main solder pad in the wiring harness bundle section.
for the empty pad and the surrounding layout.
Current Symptoms
The motor currently just makes a try to do sum then dosnt do anything
My Questions for the Experts:
Capacitor Specs: Does anyone know the exact voltage and capacitance values for C1 and C5 on this specific internal motor board?
Controller Wiring: Does anyone have a diagram or a matching controller to help identify which color wire belongs on that empty pad?
The Cascade: Is it likely that the blown caps on the motor board caused an overcurrent event that literally desoldered/popped that wire off at the controller?
I have a multimeter and am comfortable with SMD soldering, I just need the right part specs to patch this back together safely. Thanks in advance for any insights!