r/Lighting

I have several of these in my house. I did an image search and google told me that it's a LeGrande Adorne® Smart Tru-Universal Dimmer. It controls an exterior light. Well, at least it did. It's been orange for a while and none of the controls work. Before I pry off the cover to fiddle with it, does anyone have any advice as to what might be wrong with it or what to look for?

I need lighting equipment suggestions for my nighttime streams. This is my streaming set up and it’s good for daytime streaming when the sun is up but when the sun goes down, my apartment is completely pitch black dark. I have no ceiling light in my living room room so I have to wait until the sun comes back up the next day to start streaming. Does anyone have any suggestions for the correct equipment I could use so I don’t waste time or money..

We’re finally done with most of the big stuff: walls, floors, cabinets, and the main furniture.
Now we’re trying to choose lighting, and somehow this is the decision that’s making my brain shut down.
I thought lights would be the easy part after choosing things like tile, paint, rugs, and furniture. Apparently not.
For anyone who has already been through this, how did you choose your lighting? Did you do recessed lights, statement fixtures, sconces, floor lamps, layered lighting, or some mix of all of it?
What do you love now, and what would you do differently?

Image 1: Hallway
Image 2: Home office
Image 3: Entry hallway
Image 4: Bedroom

Please see the attached video. The lamp was working fine. One day it became very dark and flickering a bit. Provided voltage is 227 V AC.

Should I replace the AC to DC converter? Output voltage is around 85 V.

I got a few boxes of the Enbrighten UltraBrite Hex Lights Model 84176 from Costco and tried to lay them out on the floor, but I ran out of floor and imagination. So I had Cauld Fable (AI) cook up a website to help lay out the lights. It automatically adds connectors and keeps track of what you have already used, so you can't design something without the necessary parts.

You set the size of your room or wall and how many boxes you have, and you can virtually snap the bars together. It helped me figure out how to connect 2 kits and use every bar without running out of connectors.

site is

https://hexlightlayout.com/

The green connector is the Y connector you need for power. You click a blue corner to turn it into a green 3-way power connector.

It also calculates the total watts consumed

It's just a single HTML page. You can save it locally if you want. There is no need for the server yet.

It also works on mobile, but desktop is better.

Let me know in the comments if anything needs to be added.

Remodeling my kitchen from 1980; pics 1 & 2 show the current state. (If you look closely at the upper row of cabinets, you can figure out the reason for the remodel!) Remodel will be kinda-sort like the pictures in the obvious AI renders (pics 3 & 4) overall. White cabinets, hardwood-look floor (kitchen only, despite the render), soapstone countertops, and either a white subway backsplash or something moderately more ornamental. Beige paint in the diningroom will remain.

I'm replacing both the dining room chandelier and the flush mount light in the kitchen itself.

Questions:

Since the upper cabinets are going away (although the soffit will remain, sadly), is it a good idea to try and get the same fixture for both locations?

What style would you suggest for the fixtures?

I've also included a picture of a Tiffany styled lamp that I inherited from my folks. I think it would be cool to keep that theme going. Doable?

I’m moving into a new apartment in a few weeks and just now noticing the bad lighting in the master bathroom. Any renter friendly suggestions?

I’m just starting to get into home automation with home assistant so I’m willing to set up something. I am considering an IP67 LED strip and a rechargeable battery controlled by WLED but not sure how the water might cause issues.

Any advice or inspiration would be greatly appreciated!

Color temperature range is 1000k - 20000k. R9 score is surprisingly high.

We are in the process of purchasing a new home and would like to replace the light in the ceiling with a well lit ceiling fan. Would love suggestions on a fan that would complement this room while also providing enough light. Thanks!

A muchos nos enseñaron que el negro es fase, el blanco es neutro y el verde es tierra. Pero la realidad es que el color de los conductores depende de la norma eléctrica que se utilice y del país donde se hizo la instalación.

En México es común encontrar:

Negro, rojo o azul = Fase
Blanco = Neutro
Verde = Tierra física

Mientras que en gran parte de Europa se utiliza:

Café = Fase
Azul = Neutro
Verde/Amarillo = Tierra física

Algo que a veces pasa desapercibido es que la NOM-001-SEDE no asigna un color específico para todos los conductores de fase. Lo realmente importante es identificar correctamente el neutro y el conductor de protección.

Por eso, el color del aislamiento debe verse como una referencia, no como una garantía. En instalaciones antiguas, ampliaciones o remodelaciones es muy común encontrar colores reutilizados o conexiones que no siguen el código original.

En Procables de México siempre recomendamos verificar con un multímetro o un probador antes de manipular cualquier conductor. Unos segundos de comprobación pueden evitar un accidente o un diagnóstico equivocado.

¿cuál ha sido la peor combinación de colores que se han encontrado en una instalación? Seguro más de uno tiene una buena anécdota.

Is it common practice to reduce the distance between the LED strips and the diffuser, as shown below?

As of time being the project is in its early phase of its planning. Let of details of final implementation need to be decided. All hardware purchases need to be made. Few further pictures (current state prior to placing LED-technology in fixture) in comments to this OP.

I want to carry out a radical retrofit—meaning I’ve removed everything associated with the T8 G13 fluorescent tube technology from the first of three fixtures—and replace it with LED strip technology. Several questions have arisen during the planning phase, but for now, I want to address the following point.

The fixture is nearly empty; only the rocker switch and the GST18 connectors remain (where power enters and is passed on to the next fixture in the chain). The simplest mounting method would be to stick the strip directly to the bottom of the fixture housing. However, the side of the fixture containing the switch would then block light from spreading toward the front edge of the kitchen countertop. This is because the transparent plastic housing—which acts as a diffuser—faces the wall beneath the overhead cabinet.
Hence my idea to reduce the distance between the LEDs and the plastic cover by using a U-profile, attached (via adhesive or another method) to the top inner surface of the fixture using one of the U-profile's side flanges (rather than its base). I’ll likely need to leave a small gap between the LEDs and the diffuser to allow for some heat circulation.

I have standard rivets and a riveting tool available. However, I haven't yet checked whether the thickness of the rivet assembly fits the project's constraints—the fixture needs to sit flush against the underside of the overhead cabinet to which it is mounted. Therefore, if I were to use adhesive to attach the U-profile to the fixture housing, the adhesive would need to effectively conduct heat to the fixture's metal casing.

These awful large dome? Lights are above the living and dining area of my new apartment. they have built in lighting and are only very bright white light… like a hospital do i just never use them? Any other suggestions besides pretend they dont exist