Family member did this and is freaking out about probably having to pay tens of thousands to fix it. Is anyone here knowledgeable about door fixes? The tracks look okay but the roller things that go in it at the bottom broke off and the obvious bent panels
Had to share this Temu ad with you guys. Call me crazy, but I think this may be AI 😂
Personally, I don’t think it’s feasible. The rot extends through the two by eights and into the plywood backing. It would look very ugly to just replace the rotted section. Also, there has to be a system to join the replacement wood to upper section of original wood. I priced out all of the lumber, and it’s only about $500 in materials to just make a whole new door.
What do you all think?
We bought a home in 2022 that has the opener listed in the title. It shows it was manufactured in 2012. About 2 months ago we noticed the remotes programmed in our vehicles (the ones in the car sun visor, both Fords) would only open the door when we were right in front of it in the driveway. It did the same thing with the actual handheld remote as well. They used to open 5 or 6 houses away. Then several mornings recently it wouldn't open with the wall control panel. It just clicked and the light flashed once and it raised about an inch but wouldn't open. Pushing the button again would do the same but close the door back down again.
If I waited 5 minutes, then the door opened normally. This intermittent behavior continued for about a week. I ordered an OEM logic board replacement and installed it yesterday. The new one was dated July, 2026. Easy to install and the door worked fine with the wall control panel.
Here's where it gets odd to me. I figured I'd have to reprogram all the remotes, so I started with the handheld because you use that one to pair the opener on the car visor. The handheld didn't work at all which I expected, so I pushed the Learn button and successfully paired it. Now this is what I don't get......I tried both cars and the Pin pad outside the door, and they all worked. No programming needed. How can this be? Wouldn't having a new logic board require all remotes to be paired again, or are the codes possibly stored in the Multi-Function Door Control Panel? The only remote I had to re-pair was the handheld 3 button unit.
Oh, and the last thing is with the new logic board the door still won't open unless I'm in my own driveway.
Chamberlain Liftmaster Formula I Whisper Drive model 1280R
About a week ago the garage door stopped half way down and wouldn’t move back up. I released the door and replaced some of the rollers in the track. That didn’t fix it so I took the belt off and inspected the teeth. Nothing missing there. The coil spring doesn’t have any gaps that I can see(not gonna touch that at all). The coil spring was replaced in 2022. After hooking the belt back up to test the trolley, the trolley moves 3 feet at the most and then on the reverse I hear a loud clacking noise. Now it just hums one way and loud clacking the other way.
I don’t exactly have the money to replace the opener. I need to have the door rebalanced since it doesn’t hold itself up without sliding down. Does anyone have any ideas? I think I can replace the gear in the picture. I can also take a look at the board but I don’t see the classic puff of smoke or anything that would signify the start capacitor being blown.
Also I don’t know how to set the open and close limit on this opener or reset them.
The led light flashes 5 times on the opener.
Bought my house a year ago. Has a double bay and a single bay for garage doors. One side has a nice silent lift/motor (the double wide door) and the single bay is super loud and makes a ton of noise around the spring when opening and closing. I just noticed that the mounting plate for the tension spring (not sure on official name) has come off the wall for the most part.
Any advice on fixing myself?
I’m very handy but never messed with garage door stuff. Hate paying for professional services if I don’t need to.
Anyone have advice on how to fix?
UPDATE: After so many of you said to call a pro, I had a technician out this morning. He also said this was horribly dangerous and I shouldn’t have been using it at all in this state. Spring was replaced and bracket moved to a stud and all is well in the world. Thanks for the sound advice! 🙏💪
Top struts are breaking. Also, the door behind it is a little bit bent, and in the middle, it does touch the back and opening.
One of the roller brackets is also losing.
What are my best options for DIY? Thanks.
In advance.
I’m gathering factual information about commercial rolling service doors, their controls, and normal safeguards.
I’m interested in the gap between seeing a door respond and knowing why it responded.
If one stops or reverses, what can someone nearby directly observe? Which conclusions would require checking the exact door/operator configuration and documentation?
For example, what would a sound, an alarm, or someone standing beside the controls tell you about the cause, and what would remain uncertain?
I’m also trying to understand which questions belong with a commercial door technician and which need a building-egress specialist, particularly where a separate personnel exit is involved.
General explanations, public technical references, and pointers to relevant professional qualifications would help. I’m interested in normal operation with functioning safeguards.
Please keep examples general, without client names, private incidents, or confidential installation details.
I have a Overhead Door Legacy 696CD/B garage door. For a while the remotes worked on opening snd closing but then suddenly they both stopped working. Batteries have been replaced in the remotes but still not working. I have reset the codes in the door opener itself and try to reprogram them but still nothing. Any advice will be great.
Googling leads me to believe that it is a dovetail track and that I need to adapt it over to a T track? My trouble is finding a product that allows me to do such a thing. Is there a better solution?