I recently had my standard 2 car garage door serviced. The tech told me I needed to upgrade to wider pulleys or I wouldn’t be in compliance with code. Now as I look at it, I’m calling *ullsh!t on this. I’d like to some input from the Reddit community. Is this legit or just scamming for extra money? The first picture is the original pulley, the 2nd picture is the new “in code compliance” pulley.
Customer switched from trolley opener to jackshaft and we installed it, but the main issue is the springs weren’t right. heavy at the bottom and hot at the top. it was recently causing and issue with the old opener so she thought a new opener would fix it. Our guy who installed the opener and realized the springs were bad, he doesn’t carry extra springs and wasn’t really equipped to weigh the door.
So i got the ticket today, it showed a spring size to bring. .283 x 2.25 x 33.5, but they said take a scale and weight the door in case that wasn’t right. their research on that model showed it could be 500lbs.
we we got there and weighed it, holding the tension with winding bars against the top strut, and it showed 420lbs. so we cut a .283 x 2.25 x 36.4 inch length. We replaced cables, drums, end bearings, and the shaft. wound to 30 quarter turns, too heavy at bottom and slight heavy in the middle, almost balanced at the top. added a couple quarter turns to each side and still heavy at the bottom, balanced in the middle, hot at the top.
the new jackshaft even with force settings manually checked to make sure they’re at max, still won’t lift the door when down, or push it down when up. Which is confusing because it would do it when setting limits, but not work after.
The door is 18x7, 15” radius, Ideal brand with fancy overlay on the outside, about 2.5 inch thick with windows and 4 struts. However the struts are not on the bottom at all. there 1 at the top, 2 on the next section, and one on the next, section 2 from the bottom. I’m thinking 2 issues: the door is very top heavy and the SSC app figures springs based on total weight but assumes the weight is spread evenly, Or: the scale was off and since it holds the door a couple inches off the ground, it leaves the possibility that part of the top section was starting to go around the curve to the horizontal, taking some weight off.
Thoughts?
Somehow I just notice this only one of the pin has shape thisway all others are lined straight.
Hi! I would like to use the Flipper Zero for a very specific use case that my company has. We are servicing garage doors and each employee has a huge bunch of remotes. Each time there is a gate where an employee is for the first time, he has to wait for the gate to open or ask the security and then pair his remote to the receiver.
I'm wondering if there is a way to avoid having so many remotes and maybe share the already paired remotes between remotes.
I know that there isn't any easy way to clone rolling code remotes, but I know that I could pair a Flipper Zero to the receiver.
My question is - can I then clone a Flipper Zero to another Flipper by copying a backup?
I am changing my current trolley garage opener to something more quieter, the current ceiling mount is right beneath a room, so opening and closing the garage door is really loud for that room. My options are belt system with a much quieter motor, and instead of mounting to a ceiling, it will be mount to a support wood that is attached to that ceiling.
My option is to instead a jackshaft system that is maybe about 8-9 feet away from the original location and it will not be directly beneath the bedroom. My only concern is if the jackshaft opener will be more prone to issues and require more maintenance. Can someone who has installed the jackshaft system and has been using for years share their experience about it?
The roller bearings of my garage has come out of track. I temporarily fixed them but the issue keeps happening. Are there recommendations of technicians who can fix it in Durham area. Looking for an affordable person who doesn’t charge much.
I went to look at my grandparents garage door opener and I can’t seem the issue. I checked power at the opener and I get 120v. I tried testing low voltage and I got 9v but the transformer says 22 vac so I’m not sure what it should be. Any idea what the problem could be? The serial number and board are in the photos
Hi there. I installed a brand new garage door opener last year. Due to electrical issues from storms and flooding, the motor head is not working. It's giving an error code to suggest the control board is fried.
A new control board from the dealer is over $100. A used one from eBay is like $60. I just didn't want to mess with it and find there might be other issues with the one I have even after replacing that.
But it seems every place only sells complete units. Is there somewhere that sells just the head unit that won't cost as much as a complete new one?
I added a horizontal brace and not sure it made any difference at all.
I have another 16 ft of bracing (2 8ft pieces). Would adding two more above it help?
I'm trying to order a garage door through menards but having issues with the drawings. My door is 16' wide x 10' tall. I'd like the door to track a few inches below my ceiling which is 13' tall. My question is, can the horizontal track be higher than the torsion bar and spring? I will be using side shaft openers. The drawings I get keep showing the torsion bar above the horizontal track. I'd like just a few inches of clearance from top of horizontal track to bottom of ceiling. Attached is a photo. Thanks in advance.
Liftmaster is 22 years old and probably original belt. It snapped last week so I tracked down a new one, but then I found out why the belt broke. When I push the opener button the unit tries to close first for a few inches then returns to the original close set spot. Sensors look good, Garage door opens fine by hand. If I take the belt off and open the garage door the carriage moves freely. So I have kinda tracked it down to the opener. Is it worth fixing or should I just put in a new one. The settings haven't been touched.
Hey Reddit, just asking for some advice. I took this photo from a Facebook post since it’s the same exact situation I have currently. I live in the heatwave that is Las Vegas and have this, what I believe to be, sectional seal hanging out of my garage door panel.
I’ve heard different things about what it is, if it should be replaced, what I would need to replace it, etc. Is there a way I can buy one of these to install onto the garage panel, and is it worth the time and cost to do it? It’s a Wayne Dalton garage door that was installed with the newly built home. I work during the hours of the contractors who work for Wayne Dalton so I was just going to do it myself it is was a meaningful part to replace.
Any advice helps. Thanks!
The belt is currently jammed up in the pulley, and one side of the belt is on right under tension. Looks like the pulley guid cracked and the belt slipped off (not sure why). I just had the garage door replaced. Is this a DIY-friendly fix? I don’t know how to release the belt tension.
I don’t know if this is an older model ? I can’t seem to find anything that looks looks this, I’m probably over thinking it though?
Thank you for any tips!
TLDR; How dangerous is it to turn up the down force from approx. 1.5 to 3.5 (Kg?)
The garage door was reversing mid way down and often when it made it all the way to the ground. Tech came out and pressed the button twice and said it needed a new motor.
I got curious and the internet recommended turning the force knob up a little. So I did and the reversing went away, I then told the company the symptoms were no longer and they said it was really dangerous to change the knob and that they are set special from the day they are installed. They mentioned it was a big liability and that it isn't the proper fix. I rent, so maybe that factors in, curious to hear how bad this situation could be.
House is about 20 years old, and the spring broke on my double garage door. Sales rep recommended a total overhaul which I'm not opposed to given all the hardware appears to be original and it's warrantied for 10 years. So am I being fleeced or is this online with a medium cost of living area?
We have a detached 2 car garage with our house, which is about 100 years old. And things over the years caused the garage to tilt in the opposite direction. We had a construction company out to fix that, and the garage is standing straight again. However, now our doors are even more of a mess. We have two 8x7 heavy wooden doors. The right one barely opens, and the left one snapped a spring before the construction company came out.
Now that the construction is done, we had our local garage door company come out, and they told us the doors need, at minimum, new springs, cables, tracks, rollers, pulleys. Pretty much everything but the garage door openers, and the doors. They also recommended replacing the doors, which with windows, adds a good bit more. We're not sure if we need doors. I see the doors paint is peeling, and the bottoms of them look like they may have problems, from about 100 years of rain, but they could just need new paint. I attached pictures of the inside, and outside of the doors. They are recommending Amarr Lincoln 1000 doors, as our detached garage has no heating or cooling, and needs no insulation. From what I read here, Chi doors are much more durable.
My questions are this. Looking at the pictures, do the existing doors need more than a new coat of paint?
If we do need new doors, should we request Chi doors, and what is comparable to the Lincoln model doors?
Finally, unless this violates rule 7, for upstate New York, what's the typical price range for this kind of work? In hopeful compliance with rule 7, I will not provide any information about the installer, their quote, or anything like that. I just want to know what the price range for upstate NY is.
My boss is having me go to a customers house tomorrow to convert his standard lift doors into high lift but I’m doubting my knowledge. Obviously the drums and operators have to change in addition to the high lift track. Can the springs stay the same and do I just add the amount of highlift to the new cables?
What variables need to change?
Thank you in advance
Just moved into my first home.
Should I replace the whole piece or just get a new screw? The whole seema over drilled.