r/GarageDoorService

I just changed the belt on old Chamberlain 3280 opener (41ab050 control board). Starting fully open, the door (or the trolly only with the door disconnected) closes, flexes the bar (as though wanting to close more) then automatically reverses course and opens all the way being stopped only by the stop screw with a thud (going too far open).

For the Down Limit, I turned it clockwise and was eventually able to get to not fully close. However, it still reversed and re-opened. I tried to adjust it back down a bit, but the screw is not reliable (same position doesn't equal same door / trolley result). Unfortunately, the trolley will now only go to up position (even with the screw completely turned clockwise) and is now stuck in the up position. Pressing the door opener only elicits a buzz.

Before this, I tried to adjust the UP Limit (counter clockwise), but never got it to reduce the UP Limit and it would always bang against the stop screw. Eventually this resulted in over-doing it and the screw detached. I had to take the cover off and reattached the plastic screw into its clips.

Any advice would be appreciated. It would be nice if I didn't have to replace the whole unit.

First off, standard single car garage door 4-5 inches vertical above door opening, then angled back towards normal garage height, current door is from 94 and possibly wood? Liftmaster from 2014. Broke a spring in 21ish and had it replaced.

Problem: For 2 years now, cables popping off of drums or getting tangled around tube. Had a locally recommended business out for repair 6 or 7 times now. Reattach or replace cables as necessary (they broke a few times) but no real solution because door runs beautiful after that. A little shaking/shuddering but it's an old door.

Most recent visit yielded the most likely cause. Torsion tube is slightly bent to fit into the space between door opening and ceiling. His recommendation was to replace door and track because bar is wrong, drums are rubbing against frame and bearings are shot, but LM is fine. Said it should be a low clearance track to account for ceiling slope and proper alignment (second track for first panel to ease through the corner).

Logically it all makes sense. Replace with correct frame for door and garage dimensions and boom done. But it's also been running for 30+ years like this. Were the previous owners really replacing drums springs and bearings every 5-7 years? Wouldn't a previous tech have pointed this out?

I posted earlier about replacing my unit. Today, I walk out and my unit is flashing green. This happened a few weeks ago where there wasn't any power at the unit. No power to the wall button either. A few hours later it was back and it was working for 3 weeks. Then 2 days ago it was dead again, 48 hours later there is power to the unit. I don't know much about these but I am thinking it could be the capacitor? Any thoughts are appreciated.

I keep seeing people say they are the same company and pretty much the same jack shaft openers but in my research on the RJO101MC vs 98022 I see the Chamberlain in a direct drive and in my eyes that is a big difference if the Liftmaster isn't.

Any feedback there? Thanks!

Quick garage repair USA out of Florida

is a totally scam company. Sold me heavy duty springs but installed springs not even rated for my door charged 3 times normal cost.

STAY AWAY FROM THIS COMPANY

Today came home from work and both of my garage door openers are on battery backup. The panel circuit is fine, not tripped also the panel has a whole house power protector on it. The outlets they are plugged into works fine. Is it dual logic board failure? Is there another fix?

As the title says, I am having issues with door not wanting to close, especially if it stays open longer. Sensors are aligned, I keep checking the tensioner as well, but none of that seems to work. It will only close when I unplug and plug the power cord, but that’s only a temporary solution. As a full disclaimer, I did back the car into this door about a year ago when it was half open, and bottom panel is not straight (not sure if this matters as it worked fine until recently). I replaced springs about 2 months ago. The Liftmaster is from 2016. I am guessing this is probably a logic board? How long are they supposed to last? How hard is it to replace?

Not trying to sell anything here, genuinely curious after observing a few garage door companies lately.
From the outside, it seems like once business starts picking up, owners suddenly have to juggle:

incoming calls
dispatching
techs in the field
customer follow-ups
emergency jobs
scheduling chaos

And I’m wondering what actually becomes painful first in real life.

Is it:

missed calls?
organizing jobs?
hiring reliable techs?
price shoppers?
follow-ups?
reviews?
something else entirely?
Especially for smaller owner-operated companies doing decent volume already.
Would love to hear from people actually in the industry because from the outside it seems like growth creates operational headaches fast.

I am creating a new post since the one from a few weeks ago got a bit clogged with questions and my responses.

I am wanting to replace my 2 garage door springs before they fail. Current springs are 262x2x39. These are the original springs and house is 10.5 years old. This a 2 car garage door 16x8.

Tech weighed the door and said about 275#. The radius is 16” (originally I listed this as 14”) D400 drum. It’s a steel insulated door trimmed out on the exterior to look like a carriage door. Has side opener.

When I asked for high cycle springs, the company that installed the doors for the builder said they would install .312x3.75x52 springs. Will the 3.75” springs fit? The original tech was recommending 2” springs and the discussion of 3.75“ was a few later and by someone at the shop that wasn’t at my house.

Does this seem reasonable based on the info and the photos? Thanks in advance.

Posting this in case someone else runs into this issue.

I needed to add a LiftMaster 893MAX 3-button remote to my LiftMaster 050ACTWF opener, but I could not get it to sync. I followed the directions carefully, but the opener never responded to the remote. I cleared the opener memory, and was able to reprogram my 893LM remote and my 877MAX keypad, both on the first try. The 893MAX still wouldn’t work. I even tried programming the 893MAX the same way the 893LM was programmed (they are different). I assumed the unit was bad and had Amazon ship me a replacement.

2 days later, the replacement comes…. Same result.

After working through the issue (with Claude’s help) it turns out that the instructions are incorrect (at least for this opener).

According to the instructions, you:

Step 1. Press and hold the program button on the back of the remote until the LED lights up
Step 2. Press and release the button you are trying to program 1-4 times depending on the opener type you have (it’s once for this particular opener)
Step 3. Shows you how to exit program mode on the remote by pressing a different button
Step 4. Press the Learn button on the opener
Step 5. Press the remote button you want programmed until the opener lights flash or 2 clicks are heard
Step 6. Test

What needed up working was skipping step 2 altogether. Once I tried this, it worked the first time.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to check out this post. I was hoping to get your thoughts on whether or not Amarr might replace two new panels I purchased, given they're under warranty.

Quick history:

1. Full garage door installed earlier this year. Lovely door, we were very happy with it.
2. Nice, but elderly fellow hit the bottom-most panel with his car, denting it badly.
3. Called the installer and ordered two new panels for about three thousand dollars!! (just under)
4. 6 weeks later (today) the panels arrived.
5. I was in a meeting and couldn't inspect the panels before the technician installed them.
6. After install done, I find that the 2 new panels are full of scratches in the paint.

So, I have to call the company who installed it tomorrow. Chat with the project manager, see if we can get Amarr to ship us out new panels that aren't scratched.

My question to you is: what are my chances? Are they going to laugh in my face?

The thing is, these were expensive, and except for the dent, they're in far worse condition than the panels we replace are.

Anyone have any ideas what my options might be? Thanks in advance for any advice or thoughts you might have.

I know I might be nitpicking, but we had to pay a lot for these panels and were kinda expecting doors to be in new condition.

https://preview.redd.it/ho80lrdbb72h1.png?width=565&format=png&auto=webp&s=ab4e00e09f3901a6caa3f4ae492be584a27ace50

https://preview.redd.it/mdj1qgf1b72h1.png?width=565&format=png&auto=webp&s=05d6b4d4d1369b474e720e8a355bec928a3c3399