These bathrooms are functional but outdated. Can I do a light remodel, eg. change the vanity, or will it look weird? The previous owners already replaced the toilets with white ones. My suspicion is that a change vanity will not line up correctly with the tiled wall and simply won’t look right.
Which front door color for my 1942 house? Red or green or something else?
Hi all. I'm looking for a quick sanity check. I've got a house that needs small to moderate drywall work in three rooms, and painting in five rooms and a hallway (including the three needing drywall). Every panel is hung. There's a few high up seams that still need everything, but most areas have had one to two coats and some sanding. Granted some of the rooms are large and one of the rooms has a very high up ceiling (think triple-stacked scaffold high), it's not THAT unconventional. Still, they turned in a bid of 35k (12k paint, 23k drywall). Have I just been given an absurd "go away" bid, or am I misjudging the work?
I should clarify based on some responses, this is work that was performed by a handyman so far, but they're not able to finish it. This was not a 'save my DIY' situation.
First time home buyer! Sorry for the potato quality second image - its from an old listing.
This green feels very 2023 to me, and I'm wondering if it would be terrible to remove some of the previous owners hard work
One of those moments happened last week where my mom almost slipped getting out of the shower. Nothing bad happened thankfully but it definitely got everyone's attention. The bathroom floor suddenly looked like an accident waiting to happen. Now I'm looking into what changes actually make a bathroom safer. Some people say replace the tub. Others say focus on flooring and grab bars. If you have remodeled a bathroom with safety in mind what upgrades made the biggest difference?
Hi, looking for advice on construction delay by GC. We are building an add on of about 650 sq.ft. split into three different areas. Contract had an end date listed of Sept '25 with a start date of May '25. Ground broke in June '25 as delayed due to rains. Contract also has time is not of essence listed, with reason given during contract signing, if there is a delay then it allows the contract to be in place.
We are now in May '26 and about to hit one year, things are nowhere close to finish. Only the framing is done and all finishing steps left to include inside and outside. Also, the county inspection shows that rough framing has not passed. Other things that are rough in are electrical (not inspected), plumbing (inspected) and some hvac rough in (inspected) is installed.
When I reach out to the GC by email or phone, no response. GC is not even engaging a discussion, and we haven't spoken to him since last year. I guess their director of operations is now the "head" of this project, and she responds periodically. I have paid 82% of contract money and 30% in change orders. None of the change order would account for delays.
Not sure what to do. Please advise.
I am renovating a fixer upper and included here pictures from a few different houses that have an identical layout to the one I’m working on. I was pretty set on filling in the sunken floor, and then knocking down the wall to the kitchen and replacing with a counter (not an island) to open it up.
Like most of you, I’m not a fan of the “one huge room” builder grade open concept, and want to avoid that. I think in this case it will make the home feel more spacious and brighter. The only issue is having a small living room that now loses an obvious couch wall.
Thoughts?
We are installing a 2cm quartzite countertop at our island with a 14” overhang (towards the left in the image). The cabinets are 24” deep and 72” wide. It is going to be a 2cm eased edge so we don’t have room to put sub top or honeycomb underneath.
We are thinking about putting 3 of these (https://a.co/d/01IAXcz3) on the left side to support the overhang. Will that be strong enough, or does anyone have another recommendation?
Turning 40 in 2 weeks and I am considering a careers change. Been in various trades for the last 15yrs or so, and currently renovating my century old home. I am trying to get a realistic picture of what this could look like.
- how thorough was your inspector? Did they gloss over things?
-what major issues did they catch that either saved you money or that noped you right out of the purchase?
-what expensive problems showed up shortly after that you feel like should have been caught?
-would you want someone who gives you all the technical details, or more of hear is what can wait and what needs to be fixed sooner than later?
I have been doing the full Reno completely solo room by room. Every board I cut wrong or mistake I make hurts, financially. Every purchase I make is thoughtful, since money is tight. I think I’d truly care about the buyer and helping them understand the risk, or just give them a realistic perspective on what they are dealing with, instead of just checking boxes.
Curious what experiences you all have had, good or bad.
With the help of some lovely people here, I put together a floor plan I’d like, changing the layout of my kitchen. However, this will involve some slight movement of plumbing (gas stove moving directly 5’ forward, reworking where dishwasher/sink would be), an AC register moving less than a foot. It’s all very close together, the gas stove moving 5’ is the most dramatic difference. Everything else is less than a foot or two at max. We also have a crawl space!
How do I know what is a reasonable ask for the moves? I googled, ChatGPTd, etc., but short of having an estimate, which is planned, idk how to ballpark or know my estimate might be fair?
Countertops, cabinets, floors are a bit easier, and I’ve budgeted in for surprises.
Any help or resources would be so appreciated! 💕
We just bought a house built in ‘85, and of course alllllll of the natural wood is that awful glossy look with orangey stain. What have ya’ll found (products, process, etc.) works best to get back to the natural wood? I started with paint stripper which worked pretty decent, then finished off with acetone, and spent forever sanding. But now i have to do the inside and i would rather not chemical bomb myself:) any advice is appreciated!
I've always wanted a wrap around porch. Here's the current house followed by a couple AI-generated examples of what the finished product would look like.
Any guesses on how much something like this would cost?
Thank you in advance!!!
Our existing sad (but actually still lovely) master bathroom. We badly need a reno - mostly because of cracked tiles in the shower and that fact that we *barely* fit.
We have this large walk in closet to the left of the bathroom. Is it worth breaking that wall to expand the bathroom?
I fill not even half the closet and we have another, albeit smaller, closet on the other side of the room.
We hope to live here "forever" but you never know so we want to keep some resale in mind.
We have another bathroom upstairs with a tub/tower combo (just standard acrylic set up).
Would love to hear everyone's thoughts.
Hey everyone!
We have been getting quotes all over the place on our home and just want to better understand what we are looking at cost wise. the home is roughly 5000 sq feet. Yes its a big home, we thought we got a great price but trust me this home is a nightmare... ha
I couldn’t figure out why this was happening but then it hit me. The areas where my cleaning lady mops the floor up to the baseboard there is peeling. In areas she can’t reach with the mop the baseboards are fine. What are my options? I’m planning to sell my home this summer and can’t have it looking like this. I do have extra baseboard in my garage from the previous owner or maybe the builder. Is there a way to fix this without replacing or is replacing my only option?
Excuse the nasty caulk and linoleum. It’s why we’re remodeling!
How would you tile around the curve in this bathtub? I’ve got 36” long tiles so I’m worried about making this fit good and clean. Maybe it’s worth replacing the tub (which is also old) with one with a straight side to eliminate the headache? Any suggestions welcome!
Also curious- in a new construction situation would the tub be lifted off the floor slightly to account for the height of the tile or is it normal to just tile up to the side of the tub and caulk the gap?
And finally- the linoleum is just glued to a concrete slab. After we pull it up, can we just tile directly to the slab? (Assuming we can scrap the glue residue off) Or put something else down?
Many thanks!