Just bid a basement, around 75 sheets. No ceilings.
Told the guy 5500 all materials included. Said he got two other bids for 4500 and 4600. And they can start immediately.
Getting real sick of so many people that lowball.
Need to patch the hole that is off center with the most shallow repair possible so I don’t lose the tiny reveal on the trim that touches the ceiling.
I’m thinking
Strap, cut a patch with overhanging paper, screw it up there and do my best to spread the mud extremely thin across the entire square?
I'd estimate it's about 2 inches in height and about 2.5-3 inches wide. Looking to have this repaired and want to ask what a fair price for this would be and what I should expect. Don't want to get ripped off.
How hard would it be to repair this myself? Not handy at all.
First timer here.
I skim coated half of this wall and only this one section is cracking like this. About 4 inches by 4 inches section.
It is where the skim coat ends and the previous painted wall starts.
This cracking started after I put a coat of primer on the wall. It seems that it is pulling away from the wall.
Where did I go wrong?
What is the best course of action to fix this?
My thoughts are to try and sand it down, but not sure if that will make it worse.
Hi Team, so I trying to fix this hole in the wall myself.
I added the joint compound, sanded it, and then put the primer on, but I honestly don’t like these marks. What can I do to fix this? Will they go away with the actual paint?
Hello, what is cheap and easy way to fix this (I have zero experience)? I'll eventually cover it with baseboard so it doesn't need to be perfect, just good enough to prevent it from getting worse.
Thanks!
TLDR:
For hot humid places, what are the best beginner friendly reccs for
I live in a humid area and was wondering what’s the best drywall material to use for tropical hot places.
Also I’m watching videos on types of muds to use and types of tapes to use.
As a beginner, I’m seeing recommendations to mud initial layers with joint compound and then use a fiber glass tape instead of traditional paper tape.
Also if there are any recommendations on backing materials as well? Is it fine to use regular pieces of 2x4 as backing in humid areas? The area I’m trying to patch has no support beams to screw the drywall into.
Please recommend me the most forgiving materials because this is my first time attempting it.
Also does anyone have advice for how long a project or attempt like this may take for a 2ft tall by 10 ft long piece of straight wall, no corner in general? I want to try to tackle this instead of caving in for a contractors quote of over $800 for this but am curious how long people usually take to complete this, granted differing skill levels.
I know it's basic sorry I just don't know what search terms I should be using
I'm no drywall expert but a reasonably proficient DIYer. I'd like some help identifying the method used to apply this ceiling texture. Skip trowel? Knockdown? Some kind of pattern roller? Some multi-phase combination?
Context:
I've got an area in my 12' living room ceiling on a 45 degree corner that needs some love. Looks like the joint tape has slightly cracked along its edges in a couple spots. The tape is flush, it's not bubbly at all, and I tried getting a knife under there but can't, so it's still relatively adhered to the surface. It's just a couple thin, straight lines right along the edges. House is 28 years old, I bought it in 2023, and it's just a spot that annoys me and I'd like to touch it up a bit so it's not so obvious. Texture probably doesn't need to even be perfect, it just needs to be close-ish so it's not a crack and not a weird spot of flat drywall in an otherwise textured ceiling.
Need honest opinions. Leak has been fixed.
Want this entire water-damaged, sagging ceiling section removed, new drywall hung, texture matched, primed, and painted to match.
Quoted $2,000.
Good price? Too high?
Is that the way to go for these repairs? Will be putting new baseboards over these but they won't be tall enough to cover them completely.
For context, I started work on some of the walls and ended up having too much other work so I hired a some help. I was completely transparent and provided him full access to asses the job before submitting a quote.
He said he was finished and I pointed out many issues I had with the ceiling. He came back and said the primer would fill in some of the issues. I expressed concern about priming because it’s hard to sand after and it seemed like noticeable issues should be corrected before priming. He told me I was asking for a level 5 finish and not understanding. But wanted me to be happy so he would do some more work.
Somehow he seemed to make the ceiling significantly worse when trying to correct it. It’s not one or two issues, there seem to be issues every foot. When doing the correcting work, he spot fixed some areas and used a heat gun to dry it quick, but it seemed to leave it lumpy. Follow up conversations got a little heated with him saying I don’t understand.
I have a few questions for the community so I can better understand what to expect from a level 4 finish.
1: is it common for drywaller to ask for wall to be painted before correcting issues?
2: are there any issues using spot mud with a heat gun.
3: are my expectations too high for a level 4 finish. I am using somewhat oblique lighting in the pics and understand that it shows imperfections for level 4 but wanted to highlight concerns.
My husband and I bought an older home, lath and plaster construction. It had popcorn ceilings that contained asbestos. We had the popcorn removed and the plaster ceilings beneath aren’t in great shape so we want to put drywall up over them.
The drywall screws will have to pass through the original plaster ceiling to get into the ceiling joists. Should we use slightly longer screws to account for this? I’m guessing the plaster ceiling is about 1/4” thick. If we’re using 5/8” drywall, is it okay to use 1 5/8” screws? Or will we not be putting the screws deep enough into the joists?
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... It was me.
I DID NOT build this addition nore did I hang the sheet- rock. I solely did mud work/finish, primed and painted.
I am trying to make my garage (in central Texas) semi-comfortable to work in this summer. Right now the unfathomably hot 140+ degree air from the attic is just cooking it- in part because there is no insulation above the garage, but also because the ceiling dry wall seams are breaking open with very large gaps allll along some central seams.
I am a renter! We are not having great luck with property management doing legit repairs or taking an interest in problems they feel like we can survive with.
Before they offer a “solution”: I’m hoping to understand the ideal fix.
What (I think) I’ve gathered from some light research is that the dry wall should have been aligned with the 2x4s in the attic and nailed to them all along the seams? But these dry wall seams run perpendicular to the attic 2x4s.
(Even though I don’t own this house, I want to be a good steward of this property; and I don’t mind investing in solutions that will make life better while here)
Edit: I am planning on adding insulation to the attic. I have already insulated the garage door, and added new and additional weatherstripping. I do have an ac unit installed and ready to go. I just want to make sure the ceiling is properly repaired before laying down insulation.
Beginner/DIYer here with a repair question (0 experience). Been watching as many YouTube videos as I can but I’m struggling trying to plan how to repair this corner at my ceiling. The gap is about 1/4 and the tape is clearly peeling away the length of the wall, it looks like caulk was used previously at the top of the corners instead of tape all the way around?
Thinking I may need to add in all/partial corner bead that goes to the ceiling and retape the top three sides. Any advice would be appreciated (even if that advice is to call a pro).
Again, I’m not a drug addict. I was going to repaint my entire office and yanked a remote holder off the wall that was held on by some sort of 3m tape, took a paint hole out of the wall. I’ve been doing lots of painting and drywall work lately so it was about what I expected from the old owners. Anyways a little pull here, a little pull there, a scraper under here, a scraper under there, and 15 min later my walls that needed fresh paint are now devoid of old paint. It definitely took me far less time to tear down all this shit than it took the last guy to put it up.
I don’t really know where to go from here, just did not seem like painting over paint that was already poorly bonded to the wall was not the right idea. Now what do I do? Prime? Seal? Paint? Mud? All? The stuff came off with 0 resistance so it left basiaclly nothing behind on the wall like torn paper or anything like that. Thanks again and just as a reminder, no i am not a drug addict who peeled all the paint off their walls on whim.
Based on these two pictures do the seams in the ceiling seem more like a bad taping/drywall job or like a structural issue?
Detached garage with a max of 50# in the attic space on top of 3/4” plywood. The only other thing close to that is the TRX anchor. We bought the house a year or so ago and noticed the cracks in the seams. They follow an almost perfect 4x8. We’ve gone up in the attic space and don’t see anything out of the ordinary.
I should add that it goes from wall to wall east to west and is in a straight line at the seam.
Basically just wondering if I should refinish it and see if it holds or if someone with a better eye and some experience thinks it’s more than that.
Any and all input is appreciated