I will be painting fresh drywall in a high visibility area that has a slight dip in the center.
also repainting a wall that was poorly patched.
what tools should I use for best result? I only have a sanding block and drywall patch compound so far.
Decided it was the right choice to paint some ikea cabinets as part of a wet bar. Did all of the research I could, sanded down all parts of the cabinet, primed with Bin Primer with two coats, however at the end of each coat I committed what I now believe was mistake one:
- I used 220 sandpaper on an orbital sander as oppose to lightly by hand.
I then sprayed them each with three coats of the same paint I had bought for the room, thinking my previous steps were good, committing what I now believe is my second error:
I used Sherman Williams Interior Acrylic Latex (SuperPaint)
Six weeks later, the paint still feels ever so slightly tacky, and anytime a bottle of similar is place on a shelf for a short time it sticks a little. The paint is still fairly easy to scratch off, and when it does, is still a little rubbery.
I am indeed, screwed yes? And will have no choice but to completely remove, disassemble, scrap, sand and repaint again, right?
Or is there something else I can do to save this disaster?
ISO advice for refinishing fiberglass pool sculptures, particularly paint selection.
Thus far, my research seems to show that the correct steps are cleaning with isopropyl, sanding, cleaning, priming with below water and above water marine primer in the appropriate spots, applying paint, checking for adhesion, painting, then finishing with polyurethane. Does this sound right? What is the correct paint to use? A high quality acrylic manufacturer seemed to be the right choice, but they state their paints are water resistant, not water proof, although I doubt anyone will claim their paints are waterproof. Advice on process and paint selection?
They sanded the doors completely down applied minwax then clear does this look good to y’all
Just curious if the $1.8m estimate was accurate?
I tried to stencil a sun on the wall using tape but it didn’t work out. Then I used a paper stencil which worked way better (see the yellow sun). I tried to erase the previous pencil marks with an eraser but the pencil woudn’t move. Then I tried to paint over it with the same color from the same bucket as the wall. The wall and the touch up were done in like a week of each other so don’t really get why it game out this patchy. I even feathered out the edges with a small dry paint roller. But anyway it did came out like this and I would like to fix it ☺️
Now my questions are:
- I repaint the whole wall with the same color?
- how do I ensure the patches wont come through the new layer of paint?
- how do i do this while keeping the sun because I really like it ☀️
Ps: paint looks wet but isn’t because I paint it almost 24h ago
My son has autism and loves picking at paint. I’m getting ready to repaint his room and he asked for part of it to be for him to pick at. Is there a way to make paint easy to chip off, on purpose? Ideally I can encourage him to put all that picking into one spot, rather than all throughout my house.
Hi I'm a middle school science teacher. As you could probably guess my lab tables go through the ringer from rampant 13 year olds, and they were already absolutely covered in graffiti when I started working at my school.
I want to paint over my tables, tops and bodies. I need something as strong as paint can get and dark enough to cover any kind of graffiti.
Recently bought our first house and I’m loving the look of limewash. I’m decently capable of DIYing a limewash paint but am so nervous about how it will hold up with little kids around all the time. Sticky hands, crayons, etc.
What’s a great textured alternative that will hold up better with kids? I’ve considered putting a sealer on the limewash but it seems that would be pointless and take away a lot of the texture/matte/color(?)
I’ve also considered the faux limewash look (“x”ing two paint colors everywhere) but it’s not my favorite. Worries it would look cheap/patchy. Still an option though. What else is out there?
We have a two-story, tri-color, complex house. We contracted a respected, local contracting company to paint it. Right in the contract, it says "2 coats" to exterior. I think the contractor subcontracted to another crew. The name on their trucks is completely different from the original contractor. They have three people, and it's taken about 4 days of work.
They have done a mix of brush, roll and spray. Our contract clearly says "2 coats", but I'm only seeing one heavy coat. Last night, we went around, and there is shrinkage in the paint and pin holes. They say they are going to be done today and the contractor is coming to have us sign off on it, but there is no possible way they will finish today with 2 full coats, as some of it hasn't even been touched once. They have also removed tape from areas already sprayed and started in with the trim, leading me to believe they are only giving it one spray.
Are we out of line asking them to do 2 full coats? Especially on the white trim? I'm afraid they are going to say that spraying means it had 2 coats done at once...
I have a staircase I'm repainting. The current paint might have lead under it, so I can scuff it but not get it bare.
I have SW enamel paint for the stairs themselves, but I'm wondering if I should put a coat of primer underneath. Should I get an enamel primer? Zinsser 123+? Nothing?
Thanks in advance!
Hello, please help.
This is my laundry room - drywall with 3 coats of paint. All paints are latex (based on testing with rubbing alcohol) - yellow layer was maybe an eggshell, the brown appeared flat, the white is leftover flat ceiling paint (Sherwin Williams Painters Edge Plus in Extra White).
Prior to painting the white layer I scraped anything loose and spackled with the pink DAP stuff on nail holes and such (dried overnight) and sanded with a manual pole sander and by hand with sandpaper. The wall felt relatively smooth, especially in these spots. With eyes closed I could not feel a difference between the surrounding wall and where this cracking/peeling had been. That said, it was not perfectly smooth and I planned to use a thicker roller to compensate.
I applied a fairly heavy coat of the paint but the only place this texture is happening is where it was originally so I don’t think it’s (just) from too much paint.
I’ve sunk too much time into this project to want to cut corners now. The thought of aggressively sanding the wall again makes me want to cry. At least I used leftover paint and not fancy pretty stuff I guess. What do I do now?
I was thinking sand, actual primer (not flat paint), thorough drying and then pretty paint.
Some “washable marker” bled through this also so I grabbed spray Kilz to cover over that. Will it work for this stuff or is there something else? Please god don’t say I have to prime over primer too. I will but I’ll cry first.
Thanks for all your help!
So I'm painting a cabinet & some built-ins (currently being built). I painted my bathroom cabinets with emerald urethane (came out great, for me, I think --pictures attached of that just for reference) but thought I'd try gallery for the new stuff after seeing all the love it gets here in terms of cure/dry time. Any tips out there? ( am homeowner, using the quick shot, which I know most pros dislike, but for me it cuts down on paint waste and I'm not spraying the quantity of things you guys do). Am thinking 208 tip. Would love thoughts, advice, and sure... roast me if you want! lol!
I'm repainting doors and trim in my house, and was dissatisfied with brush and roller. Picked up a $75 "HVLP" from amazon (Tilswall) and fell in love with ease of use, quality of outcome, and limited overspray. (SW Emerald Matte)
Hoping to also use with Last n Last PolyUrethane for stained wood shelving.
Now I'm curious if putting in a little more money ($500 ish) would improve my project outcome, completion time, machine cleaning/maintenance time, ect. in a meaningful way?
Especially if Memorial Day sales of HVLP paint sprayers exist?
My competitors to the $75 Tilswall are as follows (but let me know if there's something you'd recommend I consider!):
* Fuji Semi Pro 2 ($450)
* Avanti 3 Stage ($399)
* Titan EP 60x ($430)
This is definitely my worst brush. But I’ve had it soaking in odorless mineral spirits for about 8 hours. Then cleaned it out with the purdy cleaning tool and there’s still residue paint. A decent amount in the middle of the bristles. And on the edge there are some bristles that just fray out is the best way to describe it. It’s frustrating because those little frayed pieces usually drag paint where I don’t want on my projects.
Any tips on how to get the paint out? Or did I not do a good enough job my first couple paint jobs of cleaning it out?
Update: WOW, I was not expecting nearly as many replies, thank you all for the feedback. Welp it sounds like this brush is completely cooked due to my lack of care early on. I reached out to a couple of buddies like a month after starting to use it but their advice was not nearly as good as everyone here. That's where my thought to use the mineral spirits on the latex based paint came from. Anyway, I've had much more free time on my hands so I'm not going to give up on this brush entirely and I'm also a bit broke so I'll see what I can salvage out of it. There were too many comments to write back to each one, but thanks again.
Would be painting everything that is blue. Awnings letters ect also the blue at end of video. They will pay for paint trying to figure out what to charge labor. Thanks!
I know the cleanest way to fix it would repaint this whole wall but I just moved in and this is like a 30ft wall. I created this burnishing by trying to clean scratches left by a mirror I put there… Didn’t know about burnishing.
anyways what do you think about tapping the end of a brush over the area to create the wall texture effect? or use a roller to create a rectangle floor to ceiling and feather out the sides? I know these aren’t gonna blend in perfect but anything is better than what my wall looks like rn.
Hey guys, I’ve been replacing the siding at my moms house she has a middle area we always called an atrium that was severely rotted and I’ve decided to go with the LP smart side t1-11 style panels for the siding.
On the exterior of the house it has standard wood t1-11 that I’ve been replacing a few sheets with wood and repainting/ staining with woodscapes solid and seems to be doing a really good job with the older wood.
However the atrium area with have the new panels and LP calls for a 100 acrylic paint no stain, I am not a painter but have a commercial account with sherwin Williams and am wondering what paint you guys would recommend from them. Does not have to be absolutely top of line but I’d like to not have to repaint for a decent amount of time.
Thanks in advance for any advice, have a great day!
Hey all. A while back I had seen on a thread some comments about having some pigment added to pure white - I think it was called "super white" or "ultra white" and apparently it provides a lot better coverage. Can someone help with this? Thank you in advance
What should I do here? lots of flaking and some rust spots on these bilcos painted 5 years ago with SW Alkyd oil base.
I don't have days to spend on the project nor do I want to grind all the paint off. My plan was scrape what i can, give it a light sanding with 180 or 220 by hand, clean, primer and paint with the same sherwin williams alkyd as original.
What type of primer to get it leveled and stop the rust?