u/BigJohnno66

Does anyone have a good solution for bed fans on a small printer? I have a 180x180 Trident and tried a 5015 blower fan mounted underneath. However there is not enough distance for the air to warm up before exiting the side, so it feels like it is just blowing cold air around the chamber.

I have thought to use axial fans blowing up against the bottom of the bed, but wanted to ask first if somebody has a working solution they can recommend.

https://preview.redd.it/m8qr7fpaszdh1.png?width=559&format=png&auto=webp&s=1cfbacc914e5c60587f609be3838848a1e3d67dc

Basic FreeCAD user here, I am not even sure of the terminology to use to ask this question. So I will provide an example of what I want to do.

Say for example I want to make a plaque with peoples name on it. So I want to do the CAD for the plaque. Then I want to create many objects so that I can do the CAD for each persons name.

However I don't want to just copy, because if I need to go back and touch up the base plaque it will be a lot of work if I already have 20 peoples names done.

Is there some workflow or FreeCAD feature that can allow this?

Edit: Using Clone gives me exactly what I want.

[Somewhat solved]

I have installed an eddy current sensor (SHT36 Eddy v3) and I am trying to get the Klipper config working. I have done all of the calibration steps which pass fine.

The state now is that I can use it for homing. If I set the Z to a specific position then it moves very close to that position (I check with feeler gauges). However when I start a print it tries to put down the first layer 2-3 mm in the air.

Things I have tried:

1. I have repeated the calibration with a hot bed and hot extruder. Seem to improve things, but the 1st layer is still way too high.
2. I attempted the temperature calibration, but it got to 8/26 and the probe wasn't getting any hotter. I completed the cal early, which seemed to be successful. However made no difference.
3. Tried to use a tap probe to perform a fine adjustment (copied some random gcode off the Internet) prior to printing. This seems to make it worse (back to the 2-3mm air printing).
4. eddy-ng, which seems to be broken when used with current Klipper and nobody is supporting it any more.

I wonder if anyone has successfully got the new Klipper eddy probe with tap support working properly to lay down a good first layer.

I have started to print the Trident R2 upgrade parts. I wasn't able to get my colours in ABS, but they had them in ASA. While I have no problems printing ABS, I am finding that with ASA the corners of the prints are lifting more than I am happy with.

The ASA spool says a bed temp of 50-100 is recommended, so I used 100. I have been using 105 for ABS with good results. Do people think I might get better ASA adhesion with a lower bed temp? Or maybe even a hotter temp.

Extruder temp is listed as 250 to 270 and I am running 260 and everything looks good in terms of walls, overhangs and top/bottom surfaces.

So I had a lot of fun building a Duender out of my old Ender 3 and another I picked up for almost nothing. I also can't complain about how it prints, it produces very nice prints. However the design of the Duender has a lot of parts protruding outside the limits of the frame, making it pretty much impossible to enclose with just some panels.

My goal is to have a small printer where the chamber quickly heats up, so that I can produce smaller ABS, Nylon and Polycarbonate prints. I did look at a V0.2, but wifey was not happy about me getting yet another printer. But this way it's the "same" printer just rebuilt a little differently.

So I had a play around with the Trident configurator and worked out that I could support a 170x170x170 Trident with the extrusions that I have in the Duender, with only needing to cut the 2020s, and some leftover 2020 for the Y axis. Like any normal Trident I should be able to slap some panels on it for a sealed chamber.

I will be looking at a Micron or SaladFork 160x160 heated bed and build plate for this, so should have room around the edges of the build plate for nozzle brushes etc.

It's going to use MGN12H all round, because the extrusions are V-slot and MGN9 will be a pain to get flat. I also have a bunch of these spare that I can cut to length.

It will be interesting to see how rigid it is without the top extrusions between the left and right sides. I may end up adding something there as well as my leftover bin is not yet empty.

Trender3 frame