I’ve heard it oscillate through an earpiece but it’s not strong enough to move a meter or turn on an LED. I tried arduino but that didn’t work (I dunno why I don’t really use microcontrollers).
I've been playing around with Arduino and ESP32 builds, using modules purchased from places like Adafruit (not advertising, just an example). I've decided that it's time to learn some real electronics, basics and fundamentals that don't rely on a programmable controller.
I've got the textbook The Art of Electronics, and I'm genuinely enjoying working through it. It's early yet, but I'm finding that I'm capably developing the intuition for what components do and how they work, including in circuit designs.
However, I know FA about the math. I have a head for math and am not scared of it, but I have no mathematical education at all. No calculus, etc. So while I'm picking up what components do, capacitors are a good example, and how they are used in circuits, I can't do a lick of the math. I wouldn't have a clue how to use the formulae they provide to determine the correct capacitor to use for any given application.
My question is this - as a beginner, how crippling is this? Am I best to keep ploughing forward developing intuition about how circuits are arranged and try to fill the math gap later, perhaps just by using calculators and never learning it raw at all, or would you recommend pausing on the electronic stuff and take some remedial math education so that I can follow 100% of what's going on in this text as I work through it?
Any and all advice welcome.
TL;DR - I can't do the math that accompanies learning about electronic components and how they work. Do I need to be able to, or am I better blagging it using other people's calculators and focusing on the intuition?
Hi.
I recently thought of a fun project idea involving some basic electronics components.
I want to build a sort of retro-futuristic music player, that can be plugged into any standard wall socket. It will have very basic functions. It will have a bluetooth mode, and a mode for playing pre-loaded songs.
I want to beautifully wrap all the components inside an aesthetics cassette-futuristic type 3D printed casing..
I want to take this opportunity to build something myself for the first time and learn a lot.
Please answer some of my questions, and I would love feedback from experienced players :)
How do I make sure my components are compatible?
How do I make sure this thing is even feasible?
As a first timer, what things do I do in order to make sure I make this into a proper personal use product?
I want to design a new modern motherboard for Sony experia active released in 2011 how would I best go about doing this?
So I'm trying to make a light up steering wheel for car meets like in the pic (unfortunately I can't find the actual one) by taking a clear resin steering wheel and laying LED filament in the back.
Can I wire it up in series, and connected to a USB plug that's wired to a car battery or is my very basic thinking going to have an issue? I've used USB ports wired directly to the battery before without issue, but I've never used LED filament.
Each 300mm section of filament requires 3v, so 12v total.
This is just a general question of theory
Hey, i am basically a complete beginner and wanted to design a board with a batterie powered Bluetooth compatible chip and a USB-C port used for charging and uploading code. So I tried my best, read some datasheets but mostly composed this Schematic with the help of AI. Will it somehow work, or is it just complete bs? Any Information is useful to me (:
Schematic image (titles in german)
BOM:
| No. | Quantity | Comment | Designator | Footprint | Value | Manufacturer Part | Manufacturer | Supplier Part | Supplier |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 5 | 10uF | C1,C2,C4,C5,C6 | C0805 | 10uF | CL21A106KAYNNNE | SAMSUNG(三星) | C15850 | LCSC |
| 2 | 3 | 100nF | C3,C7,C8 | C0603 | 100nF | CC0603KRX7R9BB104 | YAGEO(国巨) | C14663 | LCSC |
| 3 | 1 | XY-B2B-PH-K-S | CN1 | CONN-TH_B2B-PH-K-S | XY-B2B-PH-K-S | XYECONN(辛译) | C51940125 | LCSC | |
| 4 | 1 | SS14 | D1 | SMA_L4.2-W2.6-LS5.0-RD_1 | SS14 | MDD(辰达半导体) | C2480 | LCSC | |
| 5 | 1 | FS8205A | Q1 | SOT-23-6_L2.9-W1.6-P0.95-LS2.8-BR | FS8205A | FUXINSEMI(富芯森美) | C908265 | LCSC | |
| 6 | 1 | AO3401A | Q2 | SOT-23_L2.9-W1.3-P1.90-LS2.4-BR | AO3401A | AOS | C15127 | LCSC | |
| 7 | 2 | 5.1kΩ | R1,R3 | R0603 | 5.1kΩ | 0603WAF5101T5E | UNI-ROYAL(厚声) | C23186 | LCSC |
| 8 | 1 | 2kΩ | R2 | R1206 | 2kΩ | 1206W4F2001T5E | UNI-ROYAL(厚声) | C17944 | LCSC |
| 9 | 2 | 27Ω | R4,R6 | R0603 | 27Ω | 0603WAF270JT5E | UNI-ROYAL(厚声) | C25190 | LCSC |
| 10 | 4 | 10kΩ | R5,R7,R10,R11 | R0805 | 10kΩ | 0805W8F1002T5E | UNI-ROYAL(厚声) | C17414 | LCSC |
| 11 | 1 | 1kΩ | R8 | R0603 | 1kΩ | 0603WAF1001T5E | UNI-ROYAL(厚声) | C21190 | LCSC |
| 12 | 1 | 100Ω | R9 | R0805 | 100Ω | 0805W8F1000T5E | UNI-ROYAL(厚声) | C17408 | LCSC |
| 13 | 1 | TS-1187A-B-A-B | SW1 | SW-SMD_4P-L5.1-W5.1-P3.70-LS6.5-TL_H1.5 | TS-1187A-B-A-B | XKB Connection(中国星坤) | C318884 | LCSC | |
| 14 | 1 | TP4057 | U1 | SOT-23-6_L2.9-W1.6-P0.95-LS2.8-BL | TP4057-42-SOT26-R | TOPPOWER(南京拓微) | C12044 | LCSC | |
| 15 | 1 | 2.4GHz | U2 | BULETM-SMD_ESPRESSIF_ESP32-C3-WROOM-02-N4-4MB | 2.4GHz | ESP32-C3-WROOM-02-N4 | ESPRESSIF(乐鑫) | C2934560 | LCSC |
| 16 | 1 | WSTDW01 | U3 | SOT-23-6_L2.9-W1.6-P0.95-LS2.8-BR | WSTDW01 | WINSOK(微硕) | C86873 | LCSC | |
| 17 | 1 | AP2112K-3.3TRG1 | U4 | SOT-23-5_L2.9-W1.6-P0.95-LS2.8-BR | AP2112K-3.3TRG1 | TECH PUBLIC(台舟) | C23380830 | LCSC | |
| 18 | 1 | TYPE-C-31-M-12 | USBC1 | USB-C_SMD-TYPE-C-31-M-12_1 | TYPE-C-31-M-12 | 韩国韩荣 | C165948 | LCSC |
Hi everyone!
For the last 2 months, I’ve been learning raspberry pi pico, electronics, soldering, CAD software, and more to remake a mechanical drawing toy I found in my drawer:) On the second image you can see the insides of it.
Hardware is really fun, and I enjoyed the process so much. Finally, I got everything working, and it just looks very cool in my opinion.
Code, models, wiring are all available on my github page
I'd love to hear your feedback and what you think about it!
I bought a desk fan and I thought it was a rechargeable one but it only works while having a constant power source.
Would it be possible to attach a rechargeable battery to this?
Apologies if this isn't the place to post about this, I wasn't sure which subreddit to post this question.
[removed]
Is this circuit too corroded or are the two cylindrical things batteries that need replaced. Apologies I’m uneducated on any circuits and electronics.
Having a blast building these from literal garbage. Keeps my picos active through intermittent power failure
I am trying to turn a broken wii remote into a presentation pointer. Basically the idea is to make a PCB with the same form factor as the wii remote's PCB with an bluetooth-LE compatible esp32 and gyroscope on it. I have never made a PCB before, so I am learning with this project. One issue I am running into is battery power. I was planning on using a LiPo battery, but have been informed that these can be dangerous. Therefore, I would prefer to use a Li Ion battery. The problem is it needs to fit into a form-factor of 10 x 30 x 50 mm, and have at least 500 mAh. Does anyone know of any batteries that meet this requirement?
Alternatively, in theory, I could use regular double-As and try to use the original wii remote battery slot by putting a battery terminal on the PCB, but this seems very hard.
[effacé]
Trying to figure out the best way to change this to a hidden tv cable pass through, for in wall rated power cable & low voltage wired. Hole is too big for a single gang that’s provided in most kits. Location shown is the side of a built in shelf with tv wrapping around 90 degrees to mantle.
I am new to DIY audio stuff and I want to make this bag an actual portable Bluetooth speaker. Where do I start? Ideally the speaker itself should have the size 25x10 cm. Any beginner tips?
I’m a 26 year old industrial maint tech with 6 years experience in the field. One of the little tips I’ve learned that I can share is how to test some electronics with your phone.
I would like to preface this with a bit of information.
Wires create a magnetic field when an amperage is applied to the wire, solenoids seal in unsung magnets, and relays also switch using magnets. The world of magnetic fields is very important in our line of work.
With that said there is an app called “phyphox” which allows you to access raw sensor data from your phone. Using this app you can put your phone on solenoids relays or wires next to your magnetic sensor in your phone. This will tell you if the magnet is engaging in a solenoid or relay, or if you have power going through a wire (troubleshooting fuses, buttons, switches, etc.)
Hopefully this tip can help save you some time or money or just be a cool random piece of information for you all.
Recently I fell into a rabbit hole of people turning their old CRT TVs into oscilloscopes. I imagine it would look so cool to visualize my guitar playing or just playing songs from my phone. I noticed a lot of them had slightly different processes and different results, so Im wondering how much more there is to it than simply testing and reconnecting some wires.
I have two TVs at my disposal, one relatively new (Philips 14PT1363) and an older one from the early 80s (Philips 10CX1100). Which would be the preferable one to attempt this with and why? What are some things to look for to determine whether it is suitable?
Note: I know about the safety hazards, and since Im kind of new to electronics I am very cautious (a little intimidated too). I will bring over a friend who knows how to handle this stuff safely when I pop the cover, to at least discharge it properly.
Hello everyone, I'm kind of new to this. I have a Samsung Galaxy s23 ultra (1tb model, soo buying a new phone for over 1000$ isn't currently an option) that recently went swimming and since then I had some issues where it would reboot at random times. As time went on, it was happening during the charging and when battery percentage was above 50%.
I then replaced the battery and the USB port board and the issue went away for day, but came right back but this time it's when charging and the battery above 40% as well as when battery is above 70%. I also noticed when I'm actively using the phone the reebots are less common and pretty much only happen during charging when the battery is at higher percentages.
I then decided to take the phone apart and check the contacts. I found the FPC connector on the main board that connects to the batter looks a little sad. Some of the gold plating is gone and part of the plastic appears to be melted (maybe?). All other connectors on the boards and ribbon cables are fully gold plated. I did some looking online and saw that some of these connectors sold fully gold plated and some aren't.
I'm assuming gold plating is more important in this case as it's an inert metal that protects from mostly corrosion.
My current theory is that some small amount of moisture got in and started a micro rusty spot on one of the pins, so that when battery reaches higher voltages there's a short and phone shuts down and reboots or that the jumping spark along with increased temperature from charging causes momentarily overheating and phone reboots.
I have pictures of those connectors, so I attached a collage to the post where the issues connector is in 2 bigger pictures on the left. If anyone had any advice on what the issue is or how can I solve it, it'd be much appreciated.
In the photo attached is the tech i already have, is there any projects you guys think i could use this for? Ofc i also have other stuff like jumper wires and a breadboard but not much else, i want to be sure of what i want to do before i buy extra stuff.
