u/Cheap_Inflation9090

Hi there, I am working on a toile for the Cherry corduroy dress from Gertie. As usual, my bicep is much longer than the one in the pattern. I calculated to add 4" to the whole sleeve pattern and was considering the pivoting and sliding method following Pincushion Professor's tutorial. As there is so much ease to add, I also need to modify the bodice armhole. In this case, I have 4 pattern pieces involved in each armhole (3 armhole seams). I need to add 1" to each armhole, but I am not sure how to distribute this 1" among all the pieces? Can I just add this 1" to the side seam? I am afraid if I distribute the 1" among all the princess seams it will be too difficult to me. If I must distribute it along all the princess seams is it 1"/ 6, because there are 3 seams involved in each armhole?

I did the Elma Dress from Fibre Mood and did not like the sleeves, too much puffy for my prefenreces and decided to adapt the pattern. I lowered the sleeve cap by 1 cm and removed excess ease by overlapping each of the three slash lines by 1.6 cm. These adjustments significantly reduced the sleeve cap height and narrowed the upper sleeve. After testing the fit, I identified the need for a small refinement of the cap curve to eliminate the remaining ease and correct the pulling, that I am now exepriencing. I suppose 1,6 cm is too much to overlap. So, the question, how should I had proceed to eliminate the puffiness or shpuld I trace a totally new pattern for the sleeve? Or is there another method I should have tried? In the pictures you can see the original pattern, the variation and the comparison, which of course also result smaller.