r/PatternDrafting

Image 1 — Seam allowance trouble
Image 2 — Seam allowance trouble
Image 3 — Seam allowance trouble

Seam allowance trouble

Having problems with adding seam allowance to a flat felled seam. Did it like i always do: 1cm on the top edge of the seam and 2 cm on the bottom edge (shown on 2nd pic), yet after sewing the pieces don't align at all. The top piece became longer and slightly tilted. I was sort of expecting it to happen, this allowance didn't look like enough considering the sharp curvature. Any seam allowance wizard that could help me figure it out? Thx

ik the stitches are ugly, just a test run.

u/Popopobb — 3 hours ago

Princess seams column dress

Hi, I’m planning on drafting a pattern for a column dress with princess seams, but I don’t want a waist seam nor the skirt to be paneled. I know that such patterns exist, i.e. the ones attached, but I’m having a hard time conceptualizing how the seam allowance around the princess seam would be added. Would I have to cut through the princess seam until the end of what is essentially the skirt dart and pull it slightly apart? Wouldn’t there be barely any space left especially around the bust point?
I don’t know if I’m making sense lol sorry, it’s wrecking my brain a little as to how it actually works. If someone has a picture of what the pattern piece with seam allowance would look like I’d appreciate it, just to get an idea.

u/UncertifiedLychee — 8 hours ago

Any good recommendation books around sleeves/armholes?

Does anyone have any good books about philosophy/technical foundations/ base approach/mathematics and its rationale to sleeves?

Not just instructions on how to create different type of sleeves but like the things a technical eye would look out for and approach.

reddit.com
u/Yeahyeahsono — 11 hours ago
▲ 77 r/PatternDrafting+1 crossposts

Front crotch whiskers

Any feedback on how to get rid of these front crotch whiskers? Please ignore the left side of the photo - this wasn’t sewn and wasn’t fully closed. The shorts feel pretty good and I have no issues sitting down in them or moving around and the crotch doesn’t feel tight at all. It’s more of an annoyance than anything, but still would like to perfect them or come as close as possible.

u/NewDifference8089 — 22 hours ago
▲ 0 r/PatternDrafting+2 crossposts

Anyone willing to help me create the pattern for this dress?

https://preview.redd.it/d96chzun2cbh1.png?width=1215&format=png&auto=webp&s=f7bbc585d14d3564e0a383fbe690998a22269c6a

I really love this dress for my wedding. However, the fabric has floral print on it and doesn't give a wedding dress vibe. I searched and searched for an atelier, from Ph to Vietnam to China, but it's either too expensive, have MOQ or they can't make it on time. I've also had 3 dresses made already from a local dressmaker and a couple of well-known designers in our city but they didn't turn out well. I've spent a good amount at this point and feels discouraged. :( I've decided to try to make my own dress. However, I have zero experience in sewing but I want to try. I bought a 2nd hand machine.

Is someone willing to draft the patterns for me? I'll figure it out from there. I can provide my measurements. I also tried doing this with chatgpt but it's insisting on making its own design like making a straight tiered skirt and not a layered ruffled skirt like this one, which is my favorite part of the dress.

I'd appreciate any help. Thank you so much.

reddit.com
u/11-digits — 21 hours ago

How to rotate out excess almond shape of fabric?

Hi all! I’m working on a moulage for myself and I’ve gotten through all the major fit issues and am working through minor alterations in the next version.

One thing I noticed is that this panel sits perfectly once I pinch out what essentially would look like a fisheye dart, at a 45° angle under the bust. It’s ~1/8” at its peak and tapers down to nothing before reaching the seams.

Is there a method for rotating this into the seams? There’s clearly a touch of excess both vertically and horizontally but I’m not sure if there’s a known way to tell exactly what section of each seam needs to be reduced.

u/livelaughguns — 1 day ago

How would you draft this top ?

Can someone please make me a drawing of how I could draft this pattern ?

The top is the Audrey Top from "Shop pêche"

u/kuru2038 — 1 day ago

Best way to draft this design I made?

I have this design I want to make, but I don't know much about pattern drafting. What are the best resources and tips for drafting this design for a plus size, apple-shaped body? The front waistband is flat, but the back part of the waistband is slightly elastic. The ankles are gathered with a cuff added. I really want to be able to do the crossed strap design that has the open back like that as well as a princess seam front where the top of the seams are at the inner edge of the straps. I appreciate any help I can get.

u/kittenkween12 — 1 day ago

So happy with my moulage fit. 14 panels in total.

I started with a tape moulage, cut it flat, digitally traced the pieces, then did 2 fittings. This is a game changer for my curvy hourglass, big butt, and curved back. Shopping for clothes is a nightmare. And instructions for drafting slopers basically had me spending a bunch of time drafting a huge rectangle that I had to spend a lot of time fitting anyway.

Now I'm gonna take a rest, then digitize the final moulage pieces in CLO so I can start off all my patterns from this amazing fit. (Looking back I should have held back on digitizing until the very end but we live we learn)

Edit: it's pretty tight. I'm going for second skin and I will make slopers from it next. if you guys have feedback, I would appreciate what I some direction on what could be changed for next time.

Edit: Thank you for all the kind and actionable feedback! Say what you will about the fit being incorrect and imperfect, but the fact is this fits me better than 100% of what I can find RTW in stores. That's success to me!

u/EattheRudeandUgly — 2 days ago

Another bodice block draft!

Thank you so much everyone for the feedback on my last post! I did a relatively small FBA, which seemed to fix many but not all issues! Im kind of at a loss on where the remaining drag lines are coming from.

I'm guessing the front creases near the armhole are maybe coming from excess fabric? But not sure how to fix that. And the back drag lines have improved a lot, but they're still there a little bit and I cannot tell how to fix them!

Thanks again for all your help!

u/milenakr — 2 days ago

Learning how to draft a basic top

I recently got a Sewing teacher and I told him I want to do all the basics because I’m working on starting a Fashion Brand. And he’s taught me how to draft patterns based off of his textbook in Japanese. Holy shit this is so difficult. I’ve been sitting here for well over six hours and not even halfway through.

reddit.com
u/Better-Humor7422 — 2 days ago

New to Pattern Drafting and Sewing, How did I do on these trousers?

Title. Using clo3D to draft patterns to cut down on samples needed. Not sure if thats frowned upon but it’s amazing for workflow and less taxing on my back.

Let me know how I did, material is muslin. I plan on using this trouser pattern as a base block once I nail it.

u/JEG- — 3 days ago

Self drafting help?

Hi! I’ve seen some dresses like this and want to try and self draft a pattern.
My question: do the shapes of my pattern pieces make sense?
This will be not shaped, loose, not clingy. Just a oversized everyday wear comfy dress.
I do not have the measurements planned and my first draft pattern piece sketches are NOT to scale. Just rough draft general shapes.
Also the waist in photo #1 WILL be longer, like how I have it drawn in the pattern pieces picture. I just didn’t draw it as long in the style picture.
Cuff will be longer, sleeves will no doubt be wider, skirt will be much wider and longer than the bodice

u/Sudden-Entry7263 — 2 days ago

Winifred Aldrich - NAPE measure

How can both of these measurements be 41 cm?

Nape to Waist = 41 cm (Point 1 to Point 5)

Front Shoulder to Waist = 41 cm

I would expect:

Nape to Waist = 41 cm − 1.5 cm (back neck depth)

Front Shoulder to Waist = 41 cm

Since the nape point is lower than the highest shoulder point, it seems odd that both measurements are identical.

Am I misunderstanding how these measurements are defined, or is there an error in the drafting instructions?

u/walter--benjamin — 3 days ago

Any do /don't for beginner patterns drafting and sewing?

I started to learn about pattern drafting & sewing a week ago and still have a lot to learn, could anyone give me some tips? Something like equipment and how to do something.

reddit.com
u/Sixzero35 — 4 days ago

Find similar pattern

Hello i don't usually post here but i'd like to make a suit like this one and i wanted to find a similar pattern because i found only ugly ones (with seams everywhere)

Does someone know how could i find that?

u/Consistent_Mango_664 — 4 days ago

What’s the steps and workflow process to editing a pattern?

I started making patterns about 2 months ago focusing only on pants and I’ve made now 4 different drafts with small edits inbetween each one. every time I find something I need to change I understand how I should alter the 2d pattern to get the chanhe I want but I never know the extent that I should edit a measurement and also every time I want to test if my single change works I make a whole new garment from cheap random fabric. is this the proper process on getting a good pattern or am I making it uneccesarily long because I’ve been getting pretty frustrated when I make a whole new garment 4 times for it to still not fit properly.

reddit.com
u/Dangerous-Split2434 — 3 days ago