Looking for tips on how to draft these skirt pieces. I've seen a few for the first image but struggling to find what I want with the second... Most options showing up are for a separate flounce attached to a skirt but I'd like it to be one piece can anyone point me in the right direction? Thank you 😊
Take a look at the suit I made last year for my high school senior prom🌹
Take a look at my most recent glitter jumpsuit ✨️😁
Hello,
I started sewing about a year ago as a self-taught beginner. So far I’ve mostly done simple things like hemming, tote bags and small pouches without zippers. Recently I realized that if I want to stay motivated, I need to start making the things that truly inspire me: clothes I actually want to wear, fitted to my body and my style.
What really interests me is not only learning sewing, but also understanding garment construction and pattern making. My goal is eventually to be able to see a garment (in a picture, in the street, or even imagine one in my head) and then recreate it by drafting the pattern myself before sewing it. That part is extremely important to me.
I’m especially drawn to lightweight, fluid fabrics like satin, silk, chiffon, viscose, etc., although I want to learn all kinds of materials over time.
At the moment, I specifically want to learn pattern drafting by hand/on paper rather than digitally. I work in tech/software, and sewing is something I want to use to disconnect from screens and computers, so using CAD software would honestly ruin part of the experience for me.
I also don’t own a dress form/mannequin, so I’m thinking flat pattern drafting might make more sense for me than draping for now.
I feel overwhelmed about where to begin. I don’t currently have the possibility to take in-person or online classes, so I would really like to learn through books and structured resources rather than jumping between tutorials from different people using completely different methods and approaches. I’m looking for something progressive and coherent that helps build solid foundations and skills step by step.
What would you recommend as the best learning path for me ?
I’d like to learn:
- sewing garments properly
- understanding fit and garment construction
- flat pattern drafting / making my own patterns
- altering clothes to fit me
- copying existing garments without taking them apart
Are there any books, methods, or step-by-step resources that helped you build strong foundations as a complete beginner?
Thank you so much!
Ive tried from adjusting the armhole length to the chest circumference to a bigger size and adjusting the back of the neck hole and I dont know what else to try to get rid of those wrinkles. The jacket also feels a bit uncomfortable but I think its because it doesn't stretch.
Im not very experienced with trousers. I copied another pair I own (wide and drop crotch) but I’m having problems with excess fabric on the front crotch.
Should I just be changing the front crotch line to remove fabric?
Thanks so much 🙏
I’m fitting a no-bra bodice block/sloper for a fuller bust and I’m almost there, but I’m stuck on one issue and wondering if this is a real fitting problem or just a drafting-rule issue. I've been self learning since November, so it's been a work in progress for sure.
Context
I originally based this on my bra sloper, but I’m now developing a separate braless sloper
Back fit is good and most of the bodice is fitting well now
Please ignore any slight neckline/armhole bagginess in the photos — this muslin has been on and off a lot while testing dart changes, and I’ve been adjusting one side only rather than remaking the whole bodice each time
I already have a side bust dart that seems to fit well
My waist dart was baggy/puckering under the bust apex for many versions, but I improved it a lot by using a curved waist dart
I have quite a strong hollow/slope under my full bust (just below the apex into the waist), and I’m fairly busty
Current issue
The waist dart now fits much better, but the dart point/apex ends basically at my nipple/bust point.
I keep reading that dart points should stop ~1/2"–1"+ before the bust apex, but if I move the dart point lower/away from the bust point, I get a lot of bagginess under the bust and lose fit.
I don’t see obvious pointiness with the dart point this close, but in photos I can see a little folding/collapse near the dart tip.
Questions
Is this one of those cases where fuller bust / unsupported bust fitting breaks the “dart should stop before apex” rule?
Is there such a thing as a hollow underbust / front contour issue (almost like swayback, but in the front under the bust?) that would explain why the dart seems to need to shape so high?
Or is this a sign I should redistribute some shaping elsewhere rather than letting the waist dart end so close to the bust point?
If the dart tip folding is the issue, are there better ways to soften/press/shape that tip without losing fit?
I’ve added photos of the last 5 versions, with the original curved dart on my right side for comparison. In Version 1 I think the dart was pointing too much toward my belly button, so I’ve gradually adjusted it to finish more horizontally. Please ignore the coloured lines from the inside of the sloper, which I was using to guide my sewing along each new dart trial.
Hi,
Last year I took a local class on pants. Part of the class involved drafting your own pattern and we were given a 20ish page instruction packet on how to draft. The pattern I drafted turned out to be a really good fit for my body with minimal changes. After the class I asked the teacher what drafting system she used but she was pretty tight lipped about it. I've tried a few different drafting methods (Amstrong and Aldrich) and they were just ok. For now I am still using that original packet, but I was wondering if there's anyway to figure out what drafting system was used in this class? I'd love to try drafting other garments with the same method. It was just a weekend class so there's no one to ask.
Info about the packet: The instructions we we're given were for slacks. Both men's and women's drafts only require 4 measurements (waist, hips, inseam & outseam). It's a lot less than other drafting instructions i've run into which is kind of odd. Everything is in cm. The packet is not photocopied so I don't know how helpful a photo would be, but I can get one. I'm happy to provide any other info that might be helpful that I can't think of.
Based on my muslin drafts, I added four bones to the front center to make sure it was flat but… it still isn’t. Even if I straighten my back, it is also still pretty bent. I really did want stronger boning but I just didn’t have any, I used what I had (plastic ridgeline?) and tried to double it.
The dress is layered; the underlayer is boned and the top layer isn’t. There’s wool between them to smoothen the seams.
I’m debating whether this is a glaring issue enough that I should either alter the pattern (maybe curving in the front center seam), or throw in the money for stronger boning. I’m also worried that getting stronger boning might make the corset too tight since I’d be shifting the fat from my stomach elsewhere. Has anyone been in a similar situation?
I seem to have problems with every sleeve! I did a sloped shoulder adjustment on the Cornelius western shirt pattern. I’ve lined up all the notches but still getting these drag lines in the front. I think I need to twist/turn the sleeve back versus do a larger slope adjustment or forward shoulder adjustment but not sure. Any ideas?
Thanks!!
Edit: just want to say thanks to the community for the engagement and encouraging ideas. I hope one day I can be as helpful as many of you are. 🙏🙏
More pictures here:
Hi everyone,
Thought you might appreciate this piece of technical and personal history. These are photos and clips from a handwritten patternmaking notebook that belonged to my grandmother, Naima, dated 1943 in Iraq.
The notebook features drafting instructions written in Arabic, structural diagrams, and miniature paper toile made from kraft paper. The flaps are functional, you can lift them.
My grandmother was part of the Iraqi Jewish community. Following the establishment of Israel in 1948, the political situation for Jews in Iraq deteriorated rapidly, leading to systemic persecution, loss of citizenship, and the freezing of assets. Between 1950 and 1951, the vast majority of Iraqi Jews fled the country via airlift. The Iraqi government legally barred emigrants from taking wealth, property, or valuables, and each person was strictly limited to just one suitcase and a minimal amount of cash.
With her assets confiscated and her life packed into a single suitcase, she chose to use a portion of that limited space for this notebook, which represented her education and her trade.
does anybody have recommendations for a good online pattern making course? ive heard good things about confident patternmaking, but it's a little out of budget for me lol
im having trouble finding videos that go beyond making a basic bodice/sloper and moving around the darts
I have a small clothing brand where i have made my own patterns for multiple sizes and varieties. I have the measurements ready with me, and all the patterns which i have physically drafted on paper.
I want to learn pattern making in computer as i want to digitize all those patterns for future reference, so that in case the original patterns are torn/lost i can easily print them and carry on
Can anyone suggest me an easy to learn software that i can use to digitize the patterns easily?
My preference is a free user friendly software.
I hope this post is allowed. I am not a pattern drafter, just trying to deduce why I can't get a good fit in the seat of any pants I buy and I thought the people in this subreddit would know.
For reference, this happens in most pants I buy, regardless of how high the rise is (unless I sag them below where they are meant to sit. It happens with denim but also wool trousers. I've added some photos of what I mean. Typically pants will fit me well with the exception of giving me a wedgie.
Some other info:
- I do not have a large butt or quads at all, quite the opposite actually.
- Sizing up does not work as it makes the waist and seat much too loose.
Any thoughts?
Hello everyone!
I am making a wedding guest dress and I’m currently on my second mockup. I plan to have this as the base that I will attach a flounce or long ruffle at the hem to make it knee length or midi. (Examples of similar styles in the photos)
I’m having trouble identifying the causes of the draglines at the waist that point down to my hips and the ones stretching across my back. I really like the fit of the top but waist and down it looks a bit messy.
Any ideas on what adjustments I need to make? I don’t want it to be fully body con, but I’d like it to be pleasantly form fitting which some wiggle room around the hips.
Thanks for any help!
Ignore the unpressed darts, my iron broke.
I have only sewed one side.
How is the fit? Should I add more fabric to the front or back of the arm?
Any other suggestions?
This would be my second bodice block. Thank you!
I wanted to make a dress with side gathers but do not have a pattern for it. I would consider myself an intermediate sewist because I can make any pattern but I haven't altered patterns much.
I have the McCalls M6896 pattern that has princess seams. In my head it seems that I can use it that as a base an then modify the length and sides to have it be gathered by slashing and spreading the side panels.
I included pictures of what the what I want the bottom of the dress to look like.
I have watched a video on someone self drafting the pattern but it was a bit hard to follow and it seemed like they just had darts were the princess seams would usually go.
Hi there, I am working on a toile for the Cherry corduroy dress from Gertie. As usual, my bicep is much longer than the one in the pattern. I calculated to add 4" to the whole sleeve pattern and was considering the pivoting and sliding method following Pincushion Professor's tutorial. As there is so much ease to add, I also need to modify the bodice armhole. In this case, I have 4 pattern pieces involved in each armhole (3 armhole seams). I need to add 1" to each armhole, but I am not sure how to distribute this 1" among all the pieces? Can I just add this 1" to the side seam? I am afraid if I distribute the 1" among all the princess seams it will be too difficult to me. If I must distribute it along all the princess seams is it 1"/ 6, because there are 3 seams involved in each armhole?
Been a few weeks since I shared last, I was recommended to start from scratch so I did that and the result came out much better first time. This is the first toile, though there are still slight issues.
To address CF seam angling, seems it’s due to my shoulders being asymmetrical. This block will be used for jackets so I’m not going to be making asymmetrical adjustments to the pattern, I assume with more ease this problem will fix itself
The only issue I can see needs fixing is the wrinkling below the armpit. I assumed armhole was too small so on the right side (as captioned) I have dropped the armpit by an extra 1cm and slightly widened the armscye however this hasn’t solved the issue, and for some reason has created the gaping at the back I was trying to fix in my previous post.
Apologies for no measurements on the pattern, it was traced so I hadn’t written down the numbers
