r/PatternDrafting

I have pinned out the excess length but now I’m not sure how to adjust the pattern. It’s a princess seam side back dress panel.

The armhole in the back is bothering me. My professor says it won’t matter once I use something other than the musslin. I’m planing on using a heavy canvas. She also said that once I put a shoulder pad in which I’m planing to do anyway the bunching will go away. My question is: Do you agree? Leave it be? Change it?

I am trying to fit the closed leg trouser pattern. I would be grateful for comments about fit problems and pattern adjustments

It seems that most of the balance lines are askew Both vertically and horizontally.

Horizontal

Ive already added 1/2” to the back fork but crotch lines continue to dip front and back. Do i need a deeper crotch? Should it be scooped out? Or do i need more length on side seams? There appears to be a higher hip on left side.

Vertical

The central crease and side seams are not straight. Is this a result of the crotch issue or related to the fact that i have used the closed leg draft?

Hi so uhh how can I turn this into a top and bottom cloths? I'm new to This (Update:i just cut it from the half and called it the day now I have a crop top and a skirt that surpassingly didn't fall off)

i need help adjusting my personal extended bodice sloper. i’ve already done an fba (accdg to aldrich) and taken away from a gaping armhole. but theres still some issues i would like fixed but im not sure how to:

the drag lines towards the bust lessened after the fba but theres definitely still some and its baggy under tha bust as well.

the bust dart is already big after the fba but it keeps getting bigger after removing gaping from armhole and later neckline. is there a way to put that excess somewhere other than the bust dart?

the bust point is also too high. i’ve marked where it should be on mine. the waist could also be too low, it rides up a lot.

its also snug from the waist down, and lose waist up, but i figured it could be fixed from the side seam.

I want to have normal uninterrupted princess seams. The dart tip is where the chest transitions from totally flat into breast mound.

The bodice in first photo is roughly what i’d like to make, with the exception that I originally wanted this to be a halter, meaning the underbust tension created by these “backpack” type straps might not be necessary.

The second photo is the closest thing i’ve found (could I use that pattern to base it off of?).

I’ve also seen the Liz charms dress and its derivatives already and, while close, it doesn’t quite feel right as ultimately this is not the same as that shelf/overlay concept.

Hi all, I really love this black tank that I thrifted (originally Old Navy). I want to recreate it in this rayon I found. I have sewn quite a bit but I've never drafted a pattern from an existing top. It's gathered on both the front and the back neckline. How would I draft that because I can't just trace it and add the seam allowances. Do I make the top just as wide as the bottom? Would that be enough?

Hi all, after some helpful advice here and lots of reading, I redrafted the sleeves, added 1/4” knife pleats, & tweaked the fit on the armhole by raising it 1cm on this camp shirt pattern. Bicep width is essentially the XL of the pattern while I reduced the cap height, effectively creating a more casual sleeve fit versus the taller cap height of the pattern. I also reduced the bulk on the front of the sleeve head given the bunching in the front sleeve on previous toiles and comparing the pattern shape to some drafting examples and two other shirts patterns I have. Cut lines of the sleeve and armhole are identical (not gathering needed when setting sleeve) which (I think) means the seam line of the sleeve is slightly smaller than the armhole.

I even took this version to a local pattern drafting class for some advice, and frankly I’m surprised how many different opinions there are about what causes fit issues! The in person advice was no better than you all critiquing pictures. I expected a hard science, which it is not! I now understand a good tailor/seamstress that understands pattern-making, garment construction, fitting and alternations equally well is relatively rare and is worth whatever they want to charge!

Current fit comments: Feels much better than any previous version. Tightness in biceps is reduced, shoulders feel fitted but not tight, and better mobility across back from the pleats. Balance is ok? Compared to my long sleeve shirt, the bicep is tighter despite the short sleeve pattern being almost 1” wider at the bicep than the long sleeve. This confuses me.

Critique
- drag lines in the back across my buttock to armhole
- some bunching in the back of the sleeve
- Vertical draglines on back panel near armhole
- Is the seam line difference an issue?

Arguably, this shirt fits better than the long sleeve version I made a few months ago so I could stop here. But I really want to get the fit as good as I can and then use this as a base for more shirts.

Hello! I am in need of some advice for fixing an issue with a vest pattern I traced off (I believe it was an Eddie Bauer vest, but I no longer have the original).

When it is worn, the weight of the zipper pulls the shoulder seams/neck hole forward, which causes the back hem of the vest to flare out from the body. It is more pronounced when the vest is unzipped since the bottom ends of the zipper can fall back on the body, but it is still there when it’s zipped up.

I have attached photos of the vest being worn, as well as photos of the pattern I made. I have considered taking a wedge out of the front bodice (see last photo) to force the back hem closer to the body, but I’m unsure of how that would turn out. Thank you in advance for any suggestions!!

I'm using Winifred Aldrich's method for a close fitting bodice block. This is my second toile - kind of surprised by how ok it's turning out already!

I can see some fullness at the front upper chest, but unsure if I need to pinch out more at the shoulder darts, come in at the Armscyes, or something else?

Likewise a bit of fullness at the back waist.

And I've already snipped in 1cm at either side of back armscyes - the back chest was too wide as I was using a standard measurement for that. I think i may need to come in a little further again?

Curious if I'm missing anything else obvious!

My balance line seems to have disappeared into the fabric - I'll use a better marker in my next version! And I'll move both my darts back from the bust apex next time - just wanted to see if i was in the right ballpark in this early fitting.

Hi everyone! 👋

I'm looking to recreate the bodice of the dress in the attached photo. The outer layer has a beautiful wrap look with some gathered details, but the overall silhouette is incredibly sturdy and holds its shape without sagging.

My main questions about the internal construction are:

Is it common and correct practice to first build a standard, non-wrap foundation with boning, and then add the wrap pattern as a draped outer layer on top?

If this is the standard approach, how exactly do you sew the two parts together since the foundation and the outer wrap are different shapes?

I'd love to hear your thoughts and advice on how to tackle this. Thank you so much in advance for the help! ❤️

I’m making a loose-fit shirt and I’m trying to figure out what’s causing the excess fabric/wrinkles at the back.

I drafted the pattern in Illustrator. The front is already 2 inches longer than the back to account for my body shape, but when I put the toile on, I’m still getting quite a lot of fabric and horizontal folds across the back, especially around the waist/lower back.

I’m wondering if I should remove more length from the back, or if this is actually a back width/ease, dart, or shaping issue.

Please how do I fix this

Appreciate any help with diagnosing and how to adjust the fit! Seems like bust is too small but also gapping and having some additional other drag lines. Any way to help shoulders avoid falling down with the slight gaps in the back? I would prefer not to have to add a tie in the back to keep them up

Hello this is my 5th or 6th time and probably last time posting because I believe I’m very close to having a perfect fit (unless I get grilled here).

But I added some fabric around the hip as I was criticized on last time to do, and it seems I can sit comfortably with these on (They weren’t tight but I did need to adjust the pins because they came loose when I sat down, don’t know if that necessarily means they’re too tight?)

I made huge improvement on the curved waistband and it’s now 2 pieces and was much easier to sew on albeit it’s not perfect since its attempt 1.

Hello!

I recently acquired a vintage Singer 301 sewing machine and decided to draft my first pair of trousers using the method from Helen Joseph Armstrong.

I am quite happy with how the first muslin turned out as the balance seems ok! Pants always intimidated me but I found the book instructions quite simple and clear!

the HBL is leveled and the side seam along with the crease line at front and back are hanging pretty straight.

I’m looking to move forward with the slack drafting next using this as a block, but if any one sees a fit issue I could improve upon, please comment!

Unfortunately this is not ironed, but in the process of acquiring one as well!