u/Efficient-Bag6497

Hi all, after some helpful advice here and lots of reading, I redrafted the sleeves, added 1/4” knife pleats, & tweaked the fit on the armhole by raising it 1cm on this camp shirt pattern. Bicep width is essentially the XL of the pattern while I reduced the cap height, effectively creating a more casual sleeve fit versus the taller cap height of the pattern. I also reduced the bulk on the front of the sleeve head given the bunching in the front sleeve on previous toiles and comparing the pattern shape to some drafting examples and two other shirts patterns I have. Cut lines of the sleeve and armhole are identical (not gathering needed when setting sleeve) which (I think) means the seam line of the sleeve is slightly smaller than the armhole.

I even took this version to a local pattern drafting class for some advice, and frankly I’m surprised how many different opinions there are about what causes fit issues! The in person advice was no better than you all critiquing pictures. I expected a hard science, which it is not! I now understand a good tailor/seamstress that understands pattern-making, garment construction, fitting and alternations equally well is relatively rare and is worth whatever they want to charge!

Current fit comments: Feels much better than any previous version. Tightness in biceps is reduced, shoulders feel fitted but not tight, and better mobility across back from the pleats. Balance is ok? Compared to my long sleeve shirt, the bicep is tighter despite the short sleeve pattern being almost 1” wider at the bicep than the long sleeve. This confuses me.

Critique
- drag lines in the back across my buttock to armhole
- some bunching in the back of the sleeve
- Vertical draglines on back panel near armhole
- Is the seam line difference an issue?

Arguably, this shirt fits better than the long sleeve version I made a few months ago so I could stop here. But I really want to get the fit as good as I can and then use this as a base for more shirts.

This website seems pretty cool but as a beginner I’m not sure some of the features really have any value. It offers a bunch of calculators for adjustments, moving darts, seam allowances, pattern fitting between brands, etc. Looks like the site launched in April.

Not sure if it’s ok to post this here.

https://dartsewing.com/

Hey all, one more version! This time without sleeves.
I

1. reduced the across chest and across back width by scooping out the armhole 1cm

Balance lines still off a bit and the armholes feel/look too big, maybe too low?

I made some Changes to the sleeve head too but will Post the shirt with sleeves once we lock down the bodice.

Thoughts appreciated!

Added sleeves.

https://imgur.com/a/Tv0zhdg

I think comparing detailed measurements on the pattern versus me is a good idea. Thanks to the poster who mentioned it. I’ve been collecting measurements of shirts that fit well but not the right ones.

Hi all, I’ve been getting some helpful fit feedback on a commercial pattern I’m trying to fit to myself. The issue is I’ve made so many edits the sleeve cap looks distorted and now causing its own fit issues I think. I’m a pattern newbie and reading a lot but lack practical knowledge from years of drafting and fitting different body types to know if what my sleeve looks like could actually be ok, or if I need to reshape it to look more normal. I pinned out the extra material and it seemed to help. Last two photos show before pinning and the drag lines on the sleeve.

I can obviously start over from the original pattern but I’m looking for insight into what went wrong, how shaping of the sleeve head helps fit, and if this pattern can be “fixed”. I don’t need any links on cap height versus bicep width that are all over Reddit. I’ve read and watched them multiple times. Maybe I’m missing the message but I’m looking for more nuance on shaping to my needs. E.g., using freesewing.org I see 20+ options for fitting sleeve heads so there is more nuance than many of the basic drafting intros go into.

Any and all comments appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: to adding balance lines…adding them after sewing doesn’t work well. I’m planning to make one more muslin and will add them then.

Hi all, this is the 5th version of the All State Shirt from Merchant and Mills. Almost good enough. This time in an old bed sheet as I was tired of dealing with the stiff muslin fabric.

Edit versus v4 is 1.5cm reduction in top of back panel from advice here, and a similar reduction in sleeve head seam length by reducing the cap height. The sleeve felt tight so I didn’t want to reduce bicep width. Main pics are unhemmed with couple at the end hemmed.

Body fit is ok with some fullness and drag lines. Back balance seems better but front still flaring out a bit.
Drag lines on sleeves are bad. Since they point up to the center of the sleeve, I think this indicates it needs more sleeve cap height but (this is a big but) the sleeve is tight/pulls on my upper arm with even slight forward arm movement, which I think gets more restrictive the taller the sleeve cap gets. Plus I’m trying to avoid adding more ease, about 1cm now. The solution for the drag lines seems in conflict with how the sleeves feels!

I’m getting frustrated and not sure the best path forward. It’s like there’s some adjustment I’m missing.
I can live with the body fit, and was thinking of tapering the side seams to try and reduce the flaring. But the sleeves aren’t wearable.

Any and all advice appreciated!

Hi all, sleeves attached…very tight in the sleeve. Lots of drag lines and bunching under the arm. I know it needs adjustments, just not sure what…
Also including the pattern pieces. Can see where I added the 3cm in length to the chest and then 1.5cm to the front sleeve cap to compensate.

Edit: I’m wondering if I should change the shape of the sleeve to lower the sleeve cap and widen the bicep line? I looked at some RTW camp shirts and the sleeve caps seem much shorter…

Hi all, this version I added 3cm to the front panel in top half of armhole. Pinned armhole to try and account for seam allowance as I attached sleeves after this set of photos.

Overall the balance looks much better but still seems like the armscye could be improved given the bunching on the bottom, and looks like a bit of gaping in the front. What to do about the Diagonal drag line in left front?! Gaping in front left armhole makes me think shoulder slope?

As always, thank you for your comments! 🙇🙏

EDIT: version with sleeves here.

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/1CErYj5P4n

Hi all, made another edit to the toile, this time adding 2cm to the front chest by shifting the side seam per two other redditors suggestions.

Armholes looking good?? Should slope seems good?

Balance lines definitely better but now i see a vertical drag line pointing up from side seam to center chest…circled.

Am I on the right track? I think the pattern edit would be to add 2cm to the chest in the upper armhole area.

Anything else I should consider? Wondering if I missed another suggestion?

I feel like on my other projects I lost patience and just pushed forward even though the fit was not much better than off the rack. I really want this one to fit better than RTW.

EDIT: v3.2 here: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/gMcAFZxnT6

Hi all, appreciate all the feedback on V3.0.
Based on that I’ve pulled the sleeves and drawn HBLs as best I can.

You can see the front swings out and there seems to be a lot of fabric in the back, I.e., bubbling?

I also tried pinning up the middle back but it introduced a whole bunch of drag lines. These photos are marked.

Finally, pattern photos also included.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/y9L2xX3SUK

Hi all, hope everyone is well! Appreciate you taking a look at this issue. I’m trying to solve for the drag lines on the back under my armhole.
I think I need to either widen the back panel or scoop out the armscye but not sure. 🤔

And if you see anything else, please let me know.

This is version 3 of the All State shirt from Merchant and Mills.

I’ve learned so much from the community. Thank you! 🙏 🙏

Hi all, on my next project and wanted to check on next steps for this short sleeve shirt. I’m on V2 after making some other adjustmentsI’ve already:
- Increased shoulder slope (need to do this every time)
- Lengthened the yoke so it sits lower on my back (looked too high, plus it was hard to burrito the yoke with how small it was.)
- increased the slope th the top of the back panel to help remove some gaping in the back armhole. (Someone else recommended an armhole dart in the long sleeve shirt I did and I think this is effectively the same thing.)

Here is what I see in these pics and what my reading suggests to do

1. Front: little bit of vertical fabric/drag lines in front of the armhole: should I scoop out the armhole a little to remove the excess fabric?)
2. Back: same issue, excess fabric creating vertical drag lines on the sides next to the armhole. Issue is the shoulder feels well fitted so thinking I need this ease?
3. Diagonal drag lines on the sleeves.

The notches match so not sure what to do. I read that lines like this can be both from sleeve cap too tall or too short.

Any advice on these or other things I’m missing, thank you in advance!

Hey all, with my new found sewing hobby my girlfriend asked if I could raise the crotch on these yoga pants.

I tried something I didn’t think would work and it didn’t. lol. With My rudimentary understanding of pattern making I think raising the crotch point would need more fabric, not less.

Pics show the basting I tried on the inside and the messy result on the outside. If this had worked I would have picked the seam and re-serged.

Is there anything I can do?🙏🙏

Hey all, posting again to get all the photos in one place and my previous post was locked down. I made a few tweaks to the pattern:

1. Narrow shoulder adj.
2. Shoulder slope adj, including lowering the armhole the same amount and regrading seam lines.
3. Dart in the back yoke to handle gapping.

Question now is how to adjust pattern for the gap in the back? Do need to add a dart or will an additional shoulder slope adjustment on the back panel help? I want to finalize the pattern and use it to make other shirts.

Thanks! 🙏

I seem to have problems with every sleeve! I did a sloped shoulder adjustment on the Cornelius western shirt pattern. I’ve lined up all the notches but still getting these drag lines in the front. I think I need to twist/turn the sleeve back versus do a larger slope adjustment or forward shoulder adjustment but not sure. Any ideas?
Thanks!!

Edit: just want to say thanks to the community for the engagement and encouraging ideas. I hope one day I can be as helpful as many of you are. 🙏🙏

Hi all, any one have pattern suggestions to make a bomber/flight jacket like this? I’ve found a bunch via search and on pattern review.com but no idea which ones are good to make. I like the collar, pleated pockets and I’d like a lining. Any suggestions??

I’m relatively new to the community and really appreciate all the engagement!

Hey all,
Just sharing pics of a jacket I made for Mother’s Day. Wiksten Unfolding Jacket, now discontinued, Haori inspired. Made from Sashiko/Kendo fabric from BigZ here in LA and two different Japanese fabrics from a quilting shop in the Valley. Everything 100% cotton and super soft. Kendo fabric is washed but continues to bleed.

I like it so much I want one for myself but the sizing on this pattern doesn’t fit quite right for men.

Thanks to the group for past guidance on my Chore coat, this question is about a shirt fit. I did a muslin of a size 40 and see some fit issues in the armhole area but otherwise not noticing much else. Thinking it needs a shoulder slope adjustment that will slightly lower the armhole as well. It is “fitted” versus roomy though.

The question I’m struggling with is would you recommend fixing the shoulder slope to adjust the drag lines or go up a size in the pattern and see how it looks? This pattern offers 10 sizes with comparatively modest changes between the sizes versus other patterns. I like the shoulder width on this size so if I go up a size, I’d like to use this shoulder width. I’m definitely anxious to *make* something!

Photos attached plus the latest chore coat, in blue this time.

Thanks!