u/Few_Nectarine_1629

I'm using Winifred Aldrich's method for a close fitting bodice block. This is my second toile - kind of surprised by how ok it's turning out already!

I can see some fullness at the front upper chest, but unsure if I need to pinch out more at the shoulder darts, come in at the Armscyes, or something else?

Likewise a bit of fullness at the back waist.

And I've already snipped in 1cm at either side of back armscyes - the back chest was too wide as I was using a standard measurement for that. I think i may need to come in a little further again?

Curious if I'm missing anything else obvious!

My balance line seems to have disappeared into the fabric - I'll use a better marker in my next version! And I'll move both my darts back from the bust apex next time - just wanted to see if i was in the right ballpark in this early fitting.

Previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/OG1d7bugzs

Pattern Pieces: https://postimg.cc/GTtX0sxQ [Sorry, I tried three times to add them to the photo carousel but the photo just would not upload!!!]

Thanks SO much to everyone for their help on my mock up - I'd led myself into a number of major fitting issues due to inexperience (including rather entertainingly giving myself pouches for 4 boobs...)

I'm a lot happier with the fit of this wearable dress, sewn just in time for my holiday!

I plan on this pattern becoming a useful base for me to iterate on, so I'd like to keep tinkering with the fit when I make more tops and dresses.

Remaining issues

\\- The back looks quite weird still with pooling fabric. I think it's maybe too long, as the waist line looks lower than front? And the straps and top of the back look a bit strange too, I'd love in future to make that a bit lower and squarer.

\\- hard to capture in the photo, but I think the "neckline" of the shirred panel is gaping out a bit.

\\- Are the arm holes still too high?

\\- Front is a lot better than before. I am noticing a slight "bubble" at the seam over my apex - did I add too much to the bust?

\\- Also noticing those horizontal lines below the bust, which was just after an iron.

\\- I'd love in future for the straps to come in a bit on my shoulders to cover my bra strap better. Is there a way to do that? I'd tried just moving them myself previously but that badly affected the fit so was advised to move them back out.

\\- Design note that next time I'll draw the basque waist hem across the whole front, not just the centre front panel (i believe I was advised to do this but in my hubris I did not...)

[New Post with photos of pattern pieces and sides with arm down]

Hello!

I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!

In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!

Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).

I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!

Hello!

I've been adjusting the fit of this sleeveless princess seam bodice for a couple of weeks now, but seem to be hitting a wall. I like how straight the front seems to be lying, but the sides and back are very lumpy!

In my previous wearable toile there seemed to be a bit of excess fabric in the two side front panels that I tried pinching out as "darts" horizontal from the apex, then redrawing the princess curve. I also moved the straps in 1cm at the front. But that combination seems to have led to some further gaping and pulling issues!

Is it that the shirring panel I'm envisioning for the back won't allow for a good fit? (I just used a test panel of stirring for now, the real one will go the full length of the closure).

I think I'm reaching the end of my capacity and brainpower (and tbh it fits better than my RTW clothes) so i may just end up moving on to final shortly - but if I'm making obvious mistakes I'd love to hear!