How to train moves where you throw to a small crimp?
Hi all
Throwaway here because I’ll probably be identified - see video above.
Any suggestions on how to get better at catching small crimps that you need to throw for / move somewhat dynamically to? (see video for example)
My Stats:
5’8”, 165lbs, +0 ape. Indoor climbing anywhere between v4-v6 depending on the gym, typically flash v4 and project v5-v6 at standard gyms but at softer gyms typically flash v5, day-send v6, and project v7. Have only sent a single v7 but have been one move away from sending on a bunch. Highest outdoor grade sent is v4 but I’ve only climbed outside 4 times now.
My thoughts on the issue:
I think I kind of really fucked up. I used to weigh ~215 for most of my climbing career and as a result was terrible at crimps, being unable to even get practice on them because I wouldn’t even be able to hold onto anything crimpy even with amazing feet. I also kind of avoided them as a result. Then I lost a bunch of weight last year and it felt like my technique was ahead of my crimp strength - so I started closed hand full crimping everything I could to make up for it. As a result my closed full crimp strength skyrocketed - and now I can hang ~10 seconds on a 15mm edge with +35 lbs with a full crimp, can do weighted pullups on 15mm edge full crimp, etc. For comparison, I maybe can hold ~8 seconds with +0lbs on a 20mm edge half crimp. Currently my pull-up 1RM is ~165% BW.
Since you can’t really throw to a crimp and catch it in a full closed crimp position, I think my weaker half crimp significantly limits me on these types of moves. Most of the v7s as well as outdoor climbs that I’ve been shut down on have been due to a similar move - throwing to a crimp. Blocked crimps also give me trouble because I can’t do a closes full crimp on them. Maybe my analysis of the situation is all wrong - who knows, but that’s why I’m here asking for help.
PS - Please don’t lecture me on injury risk from full crimping, I am trying to get away from it as I think it is limiting me and likely the source of my problem. I know its a risk but also I spent 80% of my climbing career weighing 50lbs more than I do now, have been full crimping everything possible for a year+, and have never even tweaked a pulley (knock on wood) - as a result my fingers are probably more resilient than most.