r/climbharder

Forearm pump without finger engagement

Traditional wisdom is that forearm pump is a result of weighting your fingertips for a long time, and you train it by doing hangboard repeaters on 20mm or smaller edges.

However, I don't get pumped doing repeaters, and thinking of the times I get pumped on rock, it almost never involves small holds or finger engagement. I have no doubt that a long overhanging sequence in small holds could get you pumped, but that doesn't occur in the type of climbing I do. If there's small holds, it's on slab and/or in short boulder problem sequences separated by rests.

Here are a few instances when I have gotten pumped recently:

  1. I have a project that's a sequence of hand jams, thin hand jams, and finger locks, and finally jugs. There is not a single small hold in the entire thing. But I get pumped out of my mind, even in the hand jam section. Its steep so there's a lot of weight on my hands. In this case my fingers are straight but are actively pressing against the side of the crack.

  2. Recently I was following a sequence where my right hand did: a juggy hand traverse on a 4" deep lip with an incut edge; then a bomber hand jam in a constriction where my wrist simply slotted in and my fingers didn't have to do anything; then a similar upward-facing undercling-handjam with the weight still on my wrist. Got pumped but managed to hold on by alternately unweighting and shaking out each hand.

  3. In any steep ice pitch I will get pumped while holding onto literal jug handles unless I take steps to address that.

  4. When traversing under a roof on hand jams and foot smears, the fingers could be completely relaxed; the geometry means the weight is just on the "meat" of my hands. But still I will get pumped.

What is causing pump in these cases and how do I train it?

In cases 1&3, my fingers are required to press or wrap around something, and in cases 2&4, my fingers are doing literally nothing.

Hangboard repeaters seem very unrelated as they neither get me pumped and are challenging for another reason(hanging onto small holds with first 1-2 sections of finger). I'm sure they're great for training endurance on small holds, but that's not my problem.

Don't tell me it's overgripping or I'm actually just the world's weakest climber... Anyone will get pumped on a long ice pitch or overhanging hand jams. It's not just me.

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u/GreedySpecialist4736 — 10 days ago

How to grip properly?

I only recently got into climbing a few months ago and was full crimping everything and never knew there were even other ways of gripping. and now because of that i’m in a rehab phase for my fingers.

one issue i wanted to raise was. i cant physically not full crimp, and from what i found online its called hyperflexible dip joints, and i was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to fix this.

another question was on how to grip properly while doing rehab. every educational video ive found has told me to essentially build up weight with half crimps wether it be isometrics or crimp pulls. i wanted to ask where i should be putting the force from my fingers into?

i have attached a video below demonstrating what i mean as it might not make much sense.

am i pushing force into the tip of my fingertips and essentially curling my whole finger or am i pushing force into my pip joint and therefore leading to full crimping. and when i train my fingers like this. am i more thinking of trying to squeeze my hand shut or just move only my fingers?

https://youtube.com/shorts/JC17W9zfERE?si=Dc6g8GCgTcv7_-EB

u/-Sh0gun- — 11 days ago

Finger strength and forearm strength

I recently talked to an online coach about some issues with finger strength i was experiencing. I was wondering what the difference in finger strength and forearm strength was as i understand our fingers don’t have muscles and the actual muscle that is doing the work is the forearm. however, by training our fingers what do we gain from that other than strengthening our pulleys.

and i also wanted to ask, if forearm strength is the dictator on how strong we can grip, why is it not the case for people with really strong forearms to not be able to hand onto a 5mm crimp?

i struggle a lot with slopers, so much so that any climb with slopers would be 1-2 grades lower than my usual grade i’d climb. and the coach mentioned that it is an issue with my forearm strength as i can’t generate the force required to be able to grip a sloper but my fingers can handle a small crimp

could someone please explain to me how our forearm and our finger links and what each does in our role of climbing?

thanks a lot :)

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u/-Sh0gun- — 11 days ago