r/climbharder

What is the optimal way of using Methenamine products (Rhino Skin/Anti-hydral/etc.) for the ultimate purpose of toughening skin? How to best toughen skin in general?

I recently purchased Rhino Skin’s ‘tip juice’ since it’s meant to toughen up the skin in your fingertips. From what I’ve read, the active ingredient (methenamine) dries out the skin a lot, which causes it to harden.

I am completely uninterested in the sweat reducing effect. My only focus is to toughen my fingertips as much as possible, and I was wondering if there’s a specific frequency/approach of using methenamine products that any of you noticed gave the best results. The serum I have says to apply once a week, so I’ll do that for now. I’d really appreciate any insight, since I’m completely uneducated on the topic. Thank you very much!

-

For context, I’m not a climber. I have some long-term nerve damage in my fingertips, which is preventing me from safely playing stringed instruments. My fingertips are extremely sensitive, and I need to prevent further damage/injuries, so I’m trying to get as many protective barriers as I can. I have to be strategic, since this isn’t the type of thing I can overcome by just powering through the pain. I’m female, and my skin is very thin anyways, but especially on my fingertips. You can see why I’d be interested in this topic lol

Rock climbers would definitely know about how to toughen skin, so I am humbly invading your space to see if I can get any advice. I’m making sure to ask a question that actual climbers can benefit from so this post isn’t completely useless.

Once again, thank you for your time

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u/NothingButUnsavoury — 2 days ago

Finger Training Opinion

Hi, I asked in a previous post how to train my fingers, because I think that given my background in high-performance sports, I have a good physical foundation in strength, but after two years, my fingers haven’t been able to keep up. I can do ~152% of my body weight on 2 pull-ups but only ~110% of my body weight on max hangs.

That’s why I was thinking about starting to climb on the moonboard or doing block pull sessions.

As for my background: I’m 20 years old, 174 cm tall, and weigh 70 kg. I’ve been climbing for two years, and my highest grade is V6 (two boulders by Jimmy Web in Kilterboard and one outdoors). At my gym, I climb at the 5/8 level, with a maximum of 6/8. But there are almost no truly bad holds on boulders at my level. And I played high-performance handball in Mexico for almost 10 years.

My plan was to do three Moonboard sessions a week (Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays), with the option to swap the Tuesday session for a regular bouldering session. I also wanted to add one weekly session of core strength and body tension training with TRX, as well as exercises for antagonist muscles (dips and I, Y, and T exercises for the shoulders).

Now that I’ve started with two sessions on the Moonboard, I haven’t felt any discomfort, and I think doing one week with all three sessions on the board and another with the bouldering sessions at my gym, would be a great idea, and then after 3 weeks take a rest/lighter week.

The only thing I've noticed is that I can't complete any boulder problems, even though I can do several moves. I know the moonboard is really tough, but my question is something else.
Should I start with a block pull routine—or something similar—before I start climbing on the moonboard? I feel like since I don’t have enough strength to hold certain positions/holds, I can’t improve my actual climbing technique and I just end up focusing on gripping as hard as I can. And I think I could do exactly that in a much more controlled environment with block pulls or a hangboard, in addition to practicing or trying to improve my technique on easier boulders at my gym. Or maybe I should just focus on building my strength for now.

I’d really appreciate your opinions and ideas on how to apply this directly to my training—not just exercises, but programming ideas as well.

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u/JollyBerry624 — 2 days ago

Training doesn't seem to impact performance. Anyone else?

Throughout my climbing career, due to changes in work obligations and living situation, I've gone through phases of going to the gym 2x a week and not at all. These phases usually last 2-3 months. Regardless of gym attendance, I always climb outside 2-3 times a week, unless I'm on a climbing trip and then it's 4-6x.

However, I have not noticed any correlation between gym attendance and climbing performance.

Instead, I've noticed correlations between climbing performance and:

  1. Overall experience (I gain ~1 yds number grade per year so far for 5 years)

  2. Mileage in the relevant discipline (rock, ice, mixed) over the last couple months.

  3. My weight

  4. Physical restedness (how many days since I last climbed & how hard I pulled last time). No correlation with sleep.

Of course I don't have hard numbers to back this up but it's just my observation. There have been times when work is crazy during the weekdays and I never hit the gym, but climb my hardest outside on weekends.

Anyone else?

What is the point of training anyway if I can send just as hard without it? If it makes no difference, I should rather use the time to train cardio (where I have noticed impacts from training) and plan climbing trips.

I'm the first to admit that my training is far from perfect, but it's probably similar or better (during periods when I'm actually hitting the gym) than most climbers in my circle who do keep going to the gym and mostly they just climb.

Generally a gym session looks like

- 30mins-hr of bouldering including gym set and tension board, sometimes projecting, usually trying routes that I can do in a few tries, sometimes spamming easy climbs to get pumped

- hangboard repeaters or tabata hangs

- pull ups

- bicep curls

- weighted stairmaster (seasonal)

Basic stats

- 34f 5'7" 125

- 5 years climbing ~120 days outside /yr

- usually onsight 5.10 trad, wi5 M5, occasionally send 11- trad, hardest sport send is 12a but I rarely sport climb. tension board v2-3, movement V3-4

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u/GreedySpecialist4736 — 4 days ago

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

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u/AutoModerator — 3 days ago

Creating an app to minimise risk to injury.

​

Hey guys, recently people around me, both long time climbers and beginner ones, have been getting seriously injured. I've hence been sketching an app idea on managing injury risks and want honest pushback on the core piece before I sink more time into it. Specifically, how it scores injury risk.

The idea in one line:

you log your sessions (roughly how hard it felt, how long, what kind of climbing), and it gives you a daily color instead of a number — green, yellow, or red — for how much risk you're carrying right now.

How it decides the color, roughly:

* It looks at whether this week is a big jump from your last few weeks — not total volume, just how fast it's ramping up.

* Harder grip types (crimping) count for more than easier ones (open hand), same logic as a heavier lift counting for more than a lighter one.

* It also asks a 10-second daily "how are you feeling" check-in (sleep, soreness, stress) and lets that override the math — if you say you're sore, it doesn't argue with you.

A couple of examples of how it'd actually play out:

* You've been climbing 3x/week steadily for a month, nothing's changed → green.

* You jump from 2 sessions/week to 5, and start crimping way harder than you have been → red.

* Everything's normal on paper but you tell it you slept badly 3 nights running → it still bumps you to yellow, because you know your body better than a load formula does.

What I actually want opinions on:

  1. Do those two example scenarios match what you'd expect the color to be (based on experience)?

  2. What would make you distrust the grading, or ignore it?

  3. Is there something obvious about how you personally gauge "am I pushing it too hard" that this doesn't account for?

Not selling anything!!! Thank you all for your help!!

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u/qwerty0o — 4 days ago

Finger Strength Training

Hi

As for my background, I’m 20 years old, 174 cm tall, and weigh 70 kg. I’ve been climbing for about two years.
As for my highest grades, I’ve climbed two V6s from Jimmy Webb in the Kilter and several V5s (about 10). So I’d consider myself a V5 climber. At my gym, we follow circuit training, and I usually climb on the 5/8 route, though I’ve done a few 6/8s at most.

I climb 3–4 times a week and do some supplementary weight training for my shoulders and chest. I also played handball at a high competitive level for almost 10 years, so my physical foundation is pretty good.

When I took the Lattice test, I was able to do two pull-up reps with 36 kg extra (150% BW), which they consider to be between V7 and V8. Meanwhile, I could only add 7.5 kg to my max hang or 10 kg for a questionable rep—which they consider to be V3–4.

On the Kilter—even though I know people say it’s “soft”—I feel like sometimes it’s really my problem and not just a matter of technique. There are many V6 routes where, if I try to move from a certain position, I can make the move, but when it comes to grabbing the next hold and squeezing it to control my position, that’s where I always fail.

Since there aren't many boulders with bad holds at my gym in my grades, I don't know what else to do besides training on the kilter (there’s also a Moonbaord 2024 in my gym), using the hangboard or campus board, or doing block pulls. What would you recommend for my level, and how should I go about it? If you recommend climbing, should I stick to grades below my maximum to build more volume, or try something harder? If you recommend starting to train my fingers, how would you go about it?

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u/JollyBerry624 — 7 days ago

My technique is shit and I have no idea why — exercise suggestions please

I just read a few comments under a video by Lattice Training filled with people claiming they climbed their first V4/5/6s when being able to do like 3 to 6 pull-ups, and I am left here wondering how come is that not the case for me

A week ago I attempted to project/climb my first V4 at a local bouldering area where I didn't manage to get over the crux (which might be a beta problem though), however I felt like no matter where I placed my feet, I could barely lift myself up from the sit start and continue to the other holds, and the whole thing was on the power-scream-worthy level for me

There was also a V3 where I couldn't even hold the starting position, but also not even the position right after that, so I genuinely don't know how to get to the average person's technique level

I definitely thought my finger strength could be a part of the problem but I don't feel like they're to weak

My stats, if it matters: 17M, 72 kg, I usually do pull-ups and hangs on a 20 mm edge (also pulled myself up on what looked like a 10 or 12 mm edge once), on a bar I can do about 14 reps if I'm warmed up

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u/Tojinaru — 7 days ago

4 Months Climbing Training Plan

Hey,

Iam in the super privileged position, that from now in mid August until mid December (so 4 months) I have a lot of time. I can basically spend as much time climbing and training for climbing as I want, any day of the week.

My goal is to establish 6c as a grade I can consistently onsight and maybe sent one 7a.

Iam 30 years old, 178cm in height and weight 72kg. Ape index 0. I climb lead for about 2 1/2 years, Boulder for about 3 1/2 years. I currently boulder V5 flash and climb 6b onsight very consistently. My max grades are V6 Boulder on the Kilterboard and 6c lead.

These next 4 months I want to focus on lead climbing. I have access to a climbing gym (with a lot of Autobelays), a Kilterboard and all climbing specific training equipment there is. Also to a "normal" gym. On mondays and wednesdays i can climb with friends.

In my training I need to include shoulder exercises due to past impingements. I worked with a PT and have exercises specified to me. Over the last two months I have been regularly climbing 2-3 times a week. Mostly unstructured and just for fun, but I did one endurance session each week, where I climbed a lot of easy volume. Now I would like to take a more structured approach.

I searched around in here and watched some YouTube Videos and came up with the following plan:

Monday: Projecting hard climbs (6c/6c+)

Tuesday: Shoulder exercises

Wednesday: Lead climbing focused on technical aspects (6a - 6b+)

Thursday: Rest

Friday: Power Endurance (4x4 V2-V3 on Kilterboard)

Saturday: Shoulder exercises

Sunday: Rest

This is the first time I will ever follow a structured plan by myself. I have a background of playing semi-professional football (soccer) when I was younger so Iam used to training. Doing it all by myself is of course different than doing it with a team and coach.

I guess my question is If the plan makes sense. Is there anything obvious Iam missing? Iam also concerned if, now that I have all that time, I should maybe be doing more? But then also I fear injury if I do too much.

Happy to hear some insights.

(Sorry if something is not 100% perfect english)

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u/Fabulous-Egg3489 — 7 days ago

Structuring TB2 sessions

Hi all,

I recently finished a 10 week training block in May, followed by a few months of travel doing lower intensity sport/trad climbing. Over the last month or so I’ve moved back to Denver, CO and have been getting back into the gym, ramping up by mostly climbing on the TB2 and kilter. My gym sessions don’t feel totally focused as I haven’t got a clear goal in mind, beyond simply wanting to be prepared for the fall bouldering season.

That said I’d like to focus on simply leveling up my TB2 game, as it’s been incredibly fun having access to it. I’m curious if I may be trying problems that are too hard though. Most of my TB2 (twice a week) sessions have been focused on trying V7’s of which I’ve managed to do 3 over about 5 sessions, where the problems have taken up probably 50-60% of the session. I might send one or two 6’a outside of that, alongside whatever I do during my gym warmup.

On one hand, it’s fun to try hard problems, but I’m also realizing that I’m not exactly making much progress. I feel stuck on the same moves and only a few of the 7’s really feel within ‘striking distance’.

Should I switch to focusing on higher volume sessions targeted at v5-V6, where intensity varies between flashing the problem to completing it within ~10 tries?

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u/charliedontsend — 7 days ago

How to have submax bouldering sessions

Hey everyone.

I’ve been climbing for about 8 years and have spent most of that time following the same pattern: if I spend my training days doing hard limit bouldering and project sessions, I get strong and send hard, then I get injured. If I start mixing in “light” sessions, I stop improving and even start to go backwards, but stay healthy.

So what does a submaximal bouldering session look like for you? I tried one yesterday and felt like I was just farting around on stuff way below my max. I did some perfect repeats, hopped on my anti-style (slab) but it felt unfocused and like I was probably just accruing junk volume.

How do you incorporate sessions that are mostly working below your limit in order to refine technique, keep injury at bay, work weaknesses, etc? What’s your rep scheme? How often are you having sessions that look like this? How far below your max is most of this work happening?

For context I have climbed V7 on the mini Moonboard and have a handful of V5s outside.

Thanks!

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u/uniquadotcom — 7 days ago

How did you guys actually progress into harder grades? Looking for specific advice

I’m currently climbing around V5–V6 and have sent several V6s, but I’m trying to figure out how to keep progressing toward V7 and beyond. I can connect moves on harder problems but rarely ever send a 7 or harder.
I don’t currently follow a structured training plan. I mostly just climb, lightly fingerboard as part of my warmup, and occasionally do some pull-ups after climbing. I’ve watched quite a few YouTube videos on improving technique, but most of the advice is pretty general stuff like “use your feet better,” “learn heel/toe hooks,” “keep your hips close,” etc.
I’m wondering what specific things actually made a noticeable difference for you when you were around V5–V6 and trying to break into V7+.
For example:

  1. Were there specific technique drills that helped you?
  2. Did you start structured finger/strength training?
  3. Did you change how you approached projecting?
  4. Did you deliberately climb weaknesses instead of just climbing what you’re good at?
  5. Did you start doing things like limit bouldering, board climbing, or movement drills?
  6. What’s something you wish you had started doing earlier?
  7. I’m not necessarily looking for a full training program. I’m more interested in the less obvious things that helped you improve as a climber once you got past the beginner/intermediate stage.
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u/Salty-Cat-6636 — 9 days ago

Heavy Boulderer Plan

21 years climbing 6'2" 195lb +1 ape

Just starting a new plan. Struggling the last few years as I've gained 25 pounds and experienced the effects on my recovery and connective tissue capacity. I'm attempting to address my weaker styles and movements through focused repetition, usually on problems a grade or two below my current flash level.

Goals are dependent on/limited by constraints getting outside.

Thoughts, questions, or concerns?

2026 Goals - climb at least one new v10 outside by the end of 2026, v10 on TB2, climb every V9/10 in one session at each gym location during performance phase, climb every slab v5+ at each gym
2027 Goals - at least one V11 outside by the end of 2027, climb v11 on TB2, climb every 9/10 in one session at each gym during sending week

Weight 194-195lbs at the start the cycle 

~3-3.5 month cycle depending on rest days in between sessions and length of performance (2 or 3 weeks)

Intense finger TuT = 70%+ of max

1-3 rest days between sessions, depending on feeling, availability, and session focus. 
Mostly 2 days between sessions

Active recovery on rest days - stretching, bodyweight rotator cuff movement, elbow movement/rotation, light finger extensor training, biking, swimming

Dates are all approximate

All phases - deload/taper/send phases ½ volume or skip 
*once weekly after climbing 
^ the next day when taking 2 rest days, 
exercises can be spread throughout the week, 
1 set/side/exercise 

  • *External rotation - seated w/ elbow on knee 8-12
  • *Lateral raises 8-12
  • *Wrist each direction 30 sec total TuT 4 min
  • *Pinky mono 30 sec/side (once weight pin is brought back from Porto)
  • *Tricep pulls 8-10/side
  • ^Wrist extension 10 r
  • ^Wrist roller 10 sec 
  • ^Alternate between weighted scapular pullup and pushup
  • ^Alternate: Romanian deadlift with 1 weight AND Hungarian split squat 8-10r
  • ^Pelvic lift and leg extensions w/ feet in trx rungs 3-6 reps
  • ^Alternate: Ab-wheel (progress with weight vest) AND Hanging leg raises or progress to pikes (seated leg lifts)
  • ^Alternate: Pallof press (progress with bands) AND Copenhagen high step plank (progress with bands)
  • *Half-kneel forward fold w/ strap-assisted rotator cuff stretch (hands behind back, elbows pointed up/down, progress to clasping fingers)
  • *Pec stretch in doorway
  • *90/90 seated hip rotations
  • *Forearm flexor/extensor stretches
  • *Knee-to-wall ankle stretch (progress moving foot further from wall)
  • *Kneeling thoracic rotation
  • *Adductor rock back
  • *Hip airplane (progress with weight in bottom hand)
  • *High-step lift (lift high-step foot from platform w/ rotated hip, press down into platform) 
  • *Cossack squat
  • *Angels
  • Warmup = dynamic stretching and boulder ladder with scapular retraction, drop knees, heel hooks, and toe hooks loaded >50% on each side

Volume/Skill August 11-25 
6 sessions, alternating 2 volume/1 power+endurance 
~ expected total finger TuT 2-2.5 hours ~ expected intense finger TuT 13 minutes

  • warmup ladder climbing V7 and below, ~20 min
  • 2-3 hours, eat a piece of fruit every hour right sending a long climb, V7 and below, repeat anything fallen on or that felt difficult on at least one more session, 1-5 min rest
  • Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation
  • Hard session - limit bouldering V9-10 25-35 min total with ~5-7 attempts, 2-8 min rest, then attempt one 3x3 on an 8+ move V5/6

Deload August 25-September 2 
2 sessions 
~expected total finger TuT .25-.75 hour
~expected intense finger TuT 1 minute

  • 1 hour climbing max v7

Strength - September 2-23  
7 sessions - alternate sessions 1/1
~expected total finger TuT 2 hours
~expected intense finger TuT 20 minutes
1 set each exercise, 2-5 reps, aiming for 8/10 RPE

  • warmup ladder through V8, ~40 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • Max hangs x2 (half crimp), wide/medium/small pinch max hangs, one 2 finger pocket hang, good sloper max hang (on Rock Prodigy Forge)
  • Reaching trx/ring rows w/ feet elevated to just under final shoulder height 
  • Wide pull-up 
  • Flys 
  • Overhead press 
  • Bench press
  • Dips
  • Lockoff at 1-2 weakest angle(s) begin by testing strength at dif angles 10-15 sec
  • one 3x3 on an 8+ move V5/6

AND

  •  Warmup through V7
  • 20 minutes limit bouldering V9-11
  • 30 min climbing boards V5-V8 focused on technique

Deload September 23-October 2 
2 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 20 min
~expected intense finger TuT 5 min

  • warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 30 min climbing V8/9 
  • Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions and with heels and toes), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation

Power - October 2-24  
7 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 2 hours
~expected intense finger TuT 15 minutes

  • warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 10-15 sec (1-2 moves) steep, big moves, 40-45 minutes with 9 solid attempts, 3-5 min rest between each attempt
  • 15-20 min coordination power moves (jumping, paddle-throughs, running volumes)
  • 30 minutes skill practice at V6 and below - Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation

Deload - October 24-31
2 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 20 min
~expected intense finger TuT 5 min

  • warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 30 min climbing V8/9 
  • Focus on: foot pressure (in different directions and with heels and toes), pelvis-to-wall, transmitting tension into movement, anti-rotation, tension modulation

Power Endurance - October 31-November 16 
5 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 1 hour
~expected intense finger TuT 5-10 min

  • All sessions warmup ladder through V7, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • Sessions 1,2,4, and 5 Endurance sessions alternating between
    • 3x4 - V5/V6 - climb 4x then 1 min rest, repeat 4x 
    • 6 in 6 - V7/V8 climb 6 times in 6 min), 8-13 move sequences
  • 3rd session limit bouldering 45 minutes, then - skill practice repeat 10 climbs v5-v7 focusing on climbs which feel technically difficult even in this range
  • Endurance sessions alternate between
    • 3x4 - V5/V6 - climb 4x then 1 min rest, repeat 4x 
    • 6 in 6 - V7/V8 climb 6 times in 6 min), 8-13 move sequences

Taper - November 16-30, 
4 sessions
All sessions include warmup ladder through V7 with PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7, 2 half crimp lift sets (4 reps) at the end of the warmup
~expected total finger TuT 40 minutes
~expected intense finger TuT 5 minutes

  • Session 1 - 4-5 attempts 10-15 sec effort, 1-3 moves, 3-5 min rest, then 30 minutes V6 and below skill practice
  • Session 2 - 4-5 attempts 10-15 sec, 1-3 moves, 3-5 min rest, then 30 minutes V6 and below skill practice
  • Session 3 - 1 climb or 2 attempts at V8, then 4 by 2
  • Session 4 - 4-5 attempts 10-15 sec, 1-3 moves, 3-5 min rest, then 30 minutes V6 and below skill practice

Sending/Projecting November 30-December 14? 
~6 sessions
~expected total finger TuT 45 minutes
~expected intense finger TuT 35 minutes

  • warmup ladder through V7 focusing on preparing for specific projects, ~20 min, PAP heavy pull 7 sec lower, 15 sec rest between sides, done in between V6 and V7
  • 3-4 climbs, max 6 attempts each, ~1min rest/move, 1-2 hours, V9-11
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u/raddit-6 — 7 days ago

Trying out for my university’s competition team in exactly 2 weeks.

I have a couple questions. One is that I don’t know how to eat right, is it going to matter ? Am I able to fix it now? Should I start eating as much protein as I can now?

Next, how can I get as strong as possible before the tryout date? I have a hangboard and weights as well as a belt for weighted pull ups at home. I don’t want to overwork myself before the date, I usually take about 1-2 days rest between climbing. I feel best at 2-3 days, but end up climbing 3-4 days a week usually.

I’m nervous I’m not going to make the team! I’ve been climbing since my sophomore year of high school and am going into my freshman year of college. I have some outdoor experience, indoor lead experience, and I’ve been super into bouldering and the outdoors since I started climbing. I’m a girl, 5”5, with a +1 or so ape index. On the kilter board I’ve climbed maybe 15-20 v6, I can do pretty much any v5, and I have done like one or two 7s. In my gym I’ve done a few 6-8 circuits as well as a handful of 5-7 circuits. Idk if I’m good enough.

Lastly, if anyone has any mental tips for competing or tryouts I would really appreciate it. I’ve never tried out for anything like this before and I am nervous I won’t make the team because I’m not good enough. There are 13 spots.

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u/DogOutrageous5391 — 8 days ago

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

This is a thread for topics or questions which don't warrant their own thread, as well as general spray.

Come on in and hang out!

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u/AutoModerator — 10 days ago

Help improving my training - technique specifically

Ok, I started writing my whole life story here with rockclimbing, but realized that isn't the point. To keep it short: I'm a 40+ climber that started a few years ago. I'm small and relatively strong, but have been neglecting technique because I just pulled through routes.

Soon I will have daily access to a small gym with a 20 degree spraywall and an adjustable 2016 moonboard.

I mostly need to work on technique and endurance, but I suspect endurance will get better when I start climbing with better technique. I already noticed a big difference last weekend when I really started focusing on pushing with my feet a fraction of a second before pulling with my arms, which is what I've been doing most of my climbs.

Ok, so, just looking for some input in what a good way to trail would be. Endurance I've been training on the moonboard with 4x4s and staying on the board for 2m, on 25 and/or 15 degree. I just can't seem to get the same pumped feeling as I have when I'm on rock, but I suspect that is the mental factor, leading to overgripping.

Just technique is where tips would be useful. I am getting better, way less cutting feet etc, but still climbing like it's a ladder, saggy bum and everything. So yah, any drills that you guys can recommend? Other tips? The gym will be right in the garage basically, so I can even do short drills every day of the week if I wanted to.

Edit: thanks so far guys, good pointers and info in here that I'll be checking out. Love the different perspectives and ideas.

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u/atalossofwords — 10 days ago

One-finger deadhang training

As a climber, my biggest long-term goal in calisthenics is to achieve the one-arm, one-finger pull-up. In order to do that, I must first achieve the one-arm, one-finger deadhang. Right now, I can comfortably perform multiple pull-ups on good one-finger pockets. However, the jump to a one-finger, one-arm pocket seems very far away.

In order to improve my climbing, I recently started training my fingers in the traditional way for the first time (hangboarding on three-finger drag and half-crimp positions while steadily adding weight), but I am not sure whether or how that will carry over to the one-finger hang. Should i train the one finger separately? How should I do it? How do people who achieve the one-finger deadhang train for it? I am also concerned about injury prevention, and I know this to be a long-term endeavour.

For reference, I've been climbing for 3 years (the last 2 at mostly lower intensity due to a recently healed shoulder injury), and I am 167 cm, around 67 kg, and 19 yo.

I know it is a niche question, but I found no online resources to help with this. Thank you in advance :)

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u/FaintUprise8 — 11 days ago

what am I doing wrong? stuck at 6b/6c

I've been climbing for a few years and eventually reached 6b. After that, I started training consistently: during the winter I did two indoor bouldering sessions per week, and in the summer I climb outdoors every weekend plus one evening session after work (sport climbing/lead).

I'm 178 cm (5'10") and weigh 78–79 kg (172–174 lbs). I have a decent amount of muscle mass, but I'm not overweight.
edit: I'm 34y old

After a lot of hard work, I've managed to climb a few 6c routes. The truth, though, is that I still struggle a lot on 6b routes (they usually take me 1 to 3 tries), and 6b+ is still very challenging.

I don't feel like I'm improving. It's as if I'm just spinning my wheels.

At first, I trusted the process, but now this feeling of making no real progress is becoming really discouraging.

Mentally, I still have some issues. I can usually overcome the fear when I reach the crux, but even after a lot of exposure and regularly leading routes, that fear hasn't really gone away.

Do you have any suggestions? Should I just lose some weight? Should I simply keep going? Should I start hangboarding every day, or am I missing something else?

Update: I want to thank you all for the advice you gave me. I hope it will be useful, and I wish you all good climbs!

Yesterday I went to the crag and managed to climb two more 6bs: one on my first try (the quickdraws were already in place) and one on my second try.

I then tried another old/classic 6b, but I couldn't climb it. It felt really hard, and the distance between the bolts was much greater. This was a big problem mentally for me: the combination of high difficulty and the possibility of a long fall immediately affected my climbing ability. I felt like my skill level dropped instantly.

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u/andak_ — 13 days ago

Heavier climber not sure what to focus on

6’1 195lbs 21 years old and have been climbing for a little over a year. At a point where I’m feeling a little stuck and not sure what I should be focused on: finger strength, my weight or just technique.

I’ve fallen in love with bouldering and have been training pretty intentionally since I started. I’ve started board climbing mainly on the tension board 2 and really enjoying it. I’m climbing V4 @ 40deg working on some V5’s. I feel really limited by finger strength (obviously I’m a beginner and this is just what I think, could be something else holding me back).

I gave myself pulley strain after training too hard too fast on the TB2 for my experience level, that was months ago and I’ve successfully rehabbed it and feeling close to 100% again. I’ve started a bit of a diet because I thought maybe if I lost some weight my fingers wouldn’t be under too much stress. I’m not fat my any means more just a bigger dude with overdeveloped back/arms and a huge ass lol. People often say it’s easier to get stronger than get lighter which certainly makes sense, just wanted some more guidance on what I should focus on.

I don’t think my technique is awful, I’ve really worked on footwork during my injury and became quite good at slab (V6-7 indoor) but maybe my tension isn’t that good I’m not sure.

Cheers

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u/Angle-Playful — 13 days ago

Made a 3D printed Crimp trainer which is easy on the skin

I’ve been fascinated by the concept of "frictionless" training to force better finger engagement, so I decided to design and 3D print my own zero-abrasion crimp block.

First off, full credit where it’s due: this design is heavily inspired by the Comfy Crimp 2.0 by Hooper’s Beta. If you want a professionally manufactured, rigorously tested version (and to support their great content), you should absolutely buy the original here:Hooper's Beta Comfy Crimp 2.0

I wanted to share my DIY version and some of my in-gym load testing results for anyone else who dares to try 3D-printed training gear.

Like the original, it features heavily rounded edges (20mm and 12mm) and a smooth finish. Because there is virtually zero friction from the plastic, you can’t rely on skin drag. It completely punishes a passive grip and forces active FDP engagement and DIP flexion. If you relax, you dry fire instantly.

Load Testing Results

I took it to the gym this week to see how much abuse it could take.

  • Weight of the block: ~130g of plastic (PLA)
  • Comfortable Working Load: 60kg (132 lbs). It handled this weight easily with no creaking or flexing.
  • Failure/Deformation Point: 78kg (172 lbs). When I stepped up to my full body weight, the block started to deform, but went back to shape when I removed the load, I WOULD NOT RECCOMEND pulling more than 70kg with this because I imagine that if it fails it can cause injury.

For standard no-hang lifting (where you are pulling a percentage of your body weight off a loading pin), the 60kg limit is actually plenty for my current maxes, but it’s clearly not safe for full-body suspension or dynamic loading at my weight.

If you want to try to print it for yourself you can find the model here https://makerworld.com/en/models/3143302-soft-crimp-easy-on-skin-crimp-trainer, you will just need to add some paracord and a carabiner.

u/quakenxt — 14 days ago