u/Consistent_Subject82

I've being doing this kind of thing for fifty years, but this one has me stumped...

I'm installing a FitDVR adapter in my 2026 Mazda 3 sedan.

https://preview.redd.it/s6lpi5m89lyg1.png?width=576&format=png&auto=webp&s=704736dfa140812ddf07b00d8f668619b62b2230

There is a cable with a 10-pin connector going to the sunroof above the overhead console. The FitDVR kit has a Y cable that is installed inline with that 10-pin cable.

The connector on the end of the Y cable appears to be exactly the same as one in the car, but it only inserts partway, then stops hard. It's not stuck. It just won't push all the way in and click into place. I've pushed and wiggled as hard as I dare and it won't budge.

I even ordered a second kit, and that cable has the same issue.

The original factory connector clicks into place easily, so the issue shouldn't be bent pins, etc.

Any ideas, especially from anyone who has run into this with these kits?

https://preview.redd.it/4cr61r6q7lyg1.png?width=576&format=png&auto=webp&s=b3dc3dc091b338173d9d6559300356997205e6da

https://preview.redd.it/9j6i5zgn8lyg1.png?width=576&format=png&auto=webp&s=ad03365792d6cb5fcb719a9b99fbae8b8ec85f63

I bought a new 2026 Mazda 3 Preferred sedan, only to discover that it has no 12 volt power outlet (cigarette lighter jack). I could not figure out a good way to get accessory power to my radar detector and dashcam, so I bought an OBD2 to power outlet cord and splitter and was able to power both devices from that, but from 'always on' power rather an accessory power. (Just hiding the cables and plugs was a chore.)

When both devices are turned off, the current draw is only 16 mA. As long as I remember to turn both devices off when I leave the car, does anyone see an issue with this?

On another forum, someone asked a similar question, and a poster suggested that all the car's onboard computers and such might not go to sleep because of the residual draw (16 mA in my case), causing the battery to run down more quickly.