u/CountDeMounteCristo

This is heavily modified subwoofer concept to achieve high force + high velocity. Magnets are neodymium. The motor body is soft iron. The geometry is optimized for magnetic flux. 6 identical motors transfer the force to the top plate. An encoder tape and reader mounts between two plates and reads the position. A load cell reads the force. This will act as the heart of my shock absorber dyno. Will cover that later.

I posted a few days ago about this die that I made. I'll put the link to it in the comments. I did 2 forging test with it already. In the first one the upper mold wasn't fully polished, and the part stuck to it and I took it apart by the use of force and impact! (Pics 1, 2)

The second try I tested 3 billets. 60 and 65 mm diameter + the previous half-formed part. (Pics 3, 4)

I have to mention the dies weren't heat treated yet, and out of pure Machinist's excitement, I decided to test them before heat treatment to see the results (yes, it was a bad idea.)

I forged the first 2 billets halfway through the mold because the deformation was very high and I wanted to do it in two stages. The last sample (half-formed) was when trouble showed up. I almost closed the molds so the part gets full shape, but what happened was that upper and lower molds locked together and I haven't been able to take them apart yet! I think the aluminium is somehow welded to the molds because they weren't heat treated. I used a few methods and a lot of force but none worked, even welded the bottom part to a hydraulic press base and chained the top mold to the press (last pic), but the chain's nut collapsed! If you have any idea to get these 2 apart please let me know!

Nevertheless, it was a pure excitement! And I will continue testing until I successfully forge my first part!

This is the first set of dies that I designed and built. It's for forging an aluminium part for a performance shock absorber. I forged a part with it before polishing dies but the part didn't form completely and stuck to the die. I took it apart and polished them again (1st pic) and now I'm going to heat treat them and try again.

I've always wanted to make dies and here I am now! Please give me any tips and tricks you might have. It's appreciated.

This is the first set of dies that I made for forging an automotive part! I've always wanted to make dies and here I am!

Please give me your tips and advices based on the pictures. It's appreciated.

This is the first set of dies that I made for forging an automotive part! I've always wanted to make dies and here I am!

Please give me your tips and advices based on the pictures. It's appreciated.

I'm a beginner so these questions may sound simple, but I appreciate if you can give me the answers.

I recently disassembled a pneumatic jack to service it (a few parts were damaged). During disassembly I came up with some questions that I just cannot solve.

1. Why the piston has these extended legs? Why not remove them like a shock absorber piston? I know they help with the alignment of the piston so it doesn't tilt but we have a bushing for the shaft that aligns it all the time.

2. The extended leg goes inside the end cap and there is a seal with weird geometry (castle like) for it! Why go there and why seal it???

3. There is a adjustment valve on the side. What is the purpose of that?

Btw the end cap and piston are both damaged badly and I'm replacing them. Attached a photo of the piston to see how it failed!

I'm a beginner so these questions may sound simple, but I appreciate if you can give me the answers.

I recently disassembled a pneumatic jack to service it (a few parts were damaged). During disassembly I came up with some questions that I just cannot solve.

1. Why the piston has these extended legs? Why not remove them like a shock absorber piston? I know they help with the alignment of the piston so it doesn't tilt but we have a bushing for the shaft that aligns it all the time.

2. The extended leg goes inside the end cap and there is a seal with weird geometry (castle like) for it! Why go there and why seal it???

3. There is a adjustment valve on the side. What is the purpose of that?

Btw the end cap and piston are both damaged badly and I'm replacing them. Attached a photo of the piston to see how it failed!

We have a manual lathe at our workshop that we added an controller to and we can program it now. It was unable to thread however. I designed an encoder mount and a synchronous pulley system to add to the existing base. There are three ABS 3d printed parts and an aluminium milled part. We connected this encoder to our controller to add threading capability to it.

We have a manual lathe at the workshop which we turned into semi-cnc and we can program it. However it was unable to do threads because of the lack of an encoder. I did a design consisted of three 3d printed parts and an aluminium machined part to place the encoder without interference and with a tightening function.