u/CyborgSocket

1st time having this. Tastes like real peanuts.

🤯 The Lineup: Owens Corning VentSure InFlow, DCI Products SmartVent, GAF Cobra IntakePro, Lomanco Deck-Air 🤯

I’m in the process of getting a completely new roof installed, and I need to solve a major attic intake bottleneck without creating a massive secondary project.

The Backstory: My home was built in 1981 and originally had individual metal pocket vents in the soffits. About 20 years ago, a crew installed vinyl/aluminum siding and covered the original vents up. While the new siding panels have perforated sections every 3 feet or so, those perforated sections do not actually line up with the hidden metal vents underneath.

Instead of paying a siding crew to rip apart the eaves, or crawling around in hot rockwool insulation to fix it from the inside, I want to bypass the eaves entirely. Would a good way to fix the issue be installing a Roof Deck Intake Vent System from the outside while the roof is stripped naked?

I’m trying to decide which system to go with.

• Is there a particular brand/system that is structurally better or less prone to compressing when nailed down?
• Have you guys noticed any difference in how these handle wind-driven rain or heavy downpours?
• Which of these is the easiest/most foolproof for a roofing crew to install correctly?

If you have any real-world insight, horror stories, or preferences on these specific deck-intake systems, please chime in!

Thanks in advance.

I’m located in the Dallas-Fort Worth area and just got approved by my insurance carrier for a full replacement (roof, gutters, downspouts, etc.) following our recent storms.

My current roof was put on in February 2016 with GAF Timberline ArmorShield II (Class 4) shingles. I’m trying to use this opportunity to educate myself, make sure I buy what I actually need, and correct some past issues.

I’ve attached my insurance scope image for reference, but I have three main dilemmas I’d love your insight on:

1. The Ventilation Nightmare (Short Ridge Space)

A few years ago, I noticed my attic was reaching 138°F. An engineer looked at it and confirmed the original installers didn't put in enough ventilation.

Per the 1/150 rule, my attic floor space requires about 6 sq. ft. of net free area (NFA) for exhaust. Because my roof has a short horizontal ridge line (only 32.38 linear feet), the continuous ridge vent only gave me about 4 sq. ft. of NFA.

• The 2024 Patch: I added 3 wind turbines to help assist the exhaust.
• The Dilemma: My current insurance scope (Line 6) wants to just replace the 32 LF of ridge vent and replace the 3 turbine vents.
• Question: what is the best engineered exhaust solution I should go with?

2. Is a Class 4 Shingle Even Worth It in North Texas?

My ArmorShield II roof was supposed to be the ultimate hail shield, but DFW Hail Storms seemed to get the better of it. The adjuster mentioned the current total loss is likely the cumulative result of multiple hail events since 2016.

If a roof out here is realistically going to get destroyed by hail and replaced by insurance every 8 to 10 years anyway, do I actually need to go back with a Class 4 shingle?

• Note: Line 2 of my scope specifies a Class 4 to match my policy provision. If I downgrade to a standard architectural shingle (like Owens Corning Oakridge or GAF HDZ), how badly will that mess with my insurance coverage or premium discounts? Is the premium savings worth the upgrade if it's just going to get totaled anyway?

3. GAF Registered Warranty, Any Loyalty Rebates?

I explicitly remember registering this roof with GAF back in 2016. Since a manufacturing defect didn't cause this failure (it was clearly Acts of God / hail), I know a standard warranty won't cover replacement costs.

• Question: Does GAF offer any sort of loyalty discount, rebate, or credit toward buying a new set of GAF shingles if you have a registered roof that gets totaled by a storm? Or am I completely on my own starting from scratch?

Appreciate any advice from contractors or folks who deal with the brutal DFW climate regularly!

I am an IT professional, but I am now overseeing a church's AVL system. Being in IT, I can remotely control the entire setup from my home, including the cameras, video switcher, and audio board, and monitor the live stream mix entirely from my house. I have very low latency as well, thanks to 1,000 Mbps symmetrical fiber internet service, a high-throughput VPN, NDI, and remote desktop tools.

​With all this technology allowing full remote control, are there people out there who provide remote teaching, consultations, or configurations?

Since I am not an audio engineer by trade, I am sure there are fundamental things I have gotten wrong or that could be done better if I had someone review my work.

Edit.... When I say "I am over it" I dont mean I run it all by myself.. there are multiple other people involved.. typically a diffrent person is doing the house sound and is present in the house, and a diffrent person is doing the live stream mix by either monitoring it via headphones on location or in a seperate room on location. Worst case scenario if I need to I can help out remotely if for some reason I am not at the facility.