u/Different-Scratch-95

Vanity and bathtub surrounding in honed Belgian bluestone combined with tiles. Vanity with integrated sinks and stone edge banding on the cabinets.

Since you liked the last one, here are a few more staircase projects in different materials. All of them are done in a mitered monolithic block style, built to look like solid, massive blocks of stone.

Finished these twin natural stone staircases a while back, running the exact same style from top to bottom. cutting the angles to get a tight, gap-free fit against the plaster walls. Getting the exposed zig-zag stringer profiles lined up perfectly on both levels took a massive amount of patience.

​Before the comments section blows up again, it's in Europe and it's completely normal to use natural stone on a staircase.😉

​Just wanted to share what custom natural stone can do for a modern interior.

Cut and beveled these border pieces in the workshop, and spent the day laying them on a wet mortar bed. Nice and straight.

Following up on my last post about using a track saw setup for thick porcelain, I wanted to show the results on some solid 3cm Belgian Bluestone staircases I made. For anyone who was skeptical about whether this setup actually works,here is the proof.

​All treads were sanded with a bullnose edge, carefully scribed, and cut completely dry to fit tightly against the plaster with zero skirtings or trim to hide the cuts.

​I’ve included a couple of shots of the cutting setup again. Using the plunge saw with a vacuum and locking the rail down with the vacuum clamp. It leaves a flawless, factory-grade edge with absolutely zero dust or wet slurry mess inside the house. It's so much faster than hauling a massive wet saw on-site, and it works fantastic.

Just finished resetting this old set of steps. Nothing too spectacular, but we managed to salvage and reuse the old pieces to rebuild it.

​We came across a 1795 inscription chiseled into one of the stones (shown in the closeup). Glad we could preserve the original material and give it a second life.

Anyone who works with stone or ceramic knows that thick porcelain is always notoriously difficult to cut without cracking, chipping, or making a massive mess. I wanted to share this setup showing how to get flawless, factory-grade cuts on these tough slabs without using a single drop of water or creating a dust cloud. It is a great, efficient tip for both pros and DIYers, and it works beautifully for standard straight cuts as well as tricky 45° miter edges.

​The secret to cutting this difficult material completely dry comes down to three things working together. First, using a high-end plunge saw paired with a proper dust extractor allows you to cut inside a workshop or on-site without leaving a single speck of dust or dealing with a messy water slurry afterward. Second, locking a vacuum cup lifter hard against the guide rail ensures the track physically cannot shift or vibrate, which is absolutely crucial for keeping a 45° miter perfectly razor-straight over the entire length. Finally, placing rigid insulation foam directly under the slab dampens the vibrations and supports the heavy porcelain during the entire pass, which completely prevents those annoying corner blowouts at the very end of your cut.

​It is so much faster than hauling a heavy wet saw around, it leaves zero mess, and it completely tames a material that is usually a nightmare to work with. Hopefully, this tip helps someone out on their next project, and I would love to hear how you guys usually tackle thick porcelain

Current restoration project. First phase is laying the stone tiles. It’s split into two areas: the left side of the building gets the larger tiles, while the Gatehouse entry features these smaller bluestone pavers and planters.

I just wanted to showcase the transition to this flawless mirror finish, but I got completely carried away having fun with the 'Sigma' trend. I know my videos get a lot of split reactions, some love the drama, some absolutely hate the edits. so I figured I’d just go all-out this time. At the end of the day, I'm just having fun showing my craft. Have a nice day 😉

wanted to share a recent outdoor coffee table project I just wrapped up. It is made from travertine (sandblasted), and I used mitered edges to achieve that solid block aesthetic. Since this table is going to stay outside, I chose to apply a epoxy filler (almond) and a epoxy coating wash to seal the deeper pores, protect the stone against weathering and stains, and make it practical for everyday use. The coating also did a fantastic job of bringing out the deep beige and cream character of the stone. I am happy to answer any questions about the process or the finish!

Nero Zimbabwe, flamed and brushed.All steps are custom fabricated with mitered risers and treads for a seamless, solid block look. Scribed and fitted tight against the plaster walls.

Video is a bit flashy. But I will make a step by step video very soon.

Hey everyone, wanted to share this footage of shaping and polishing a traditional piece of belgian bluestone.

​This specific edge is what we call a 'Grapevine' profile or triple Ogee. It’s a true classic that requires a lot of precision to get perfectly smooth before the final polish.

​This particular piece is going to be used as a fireplace lintel, but it’s also an amazing, elegant finish for luxury countertops and kitchen islands if you want that timeless, high-end look. I honestly believe this classic style is going to see a huge revival in the coming years as people move away from plain, straight edges.

​Let me know what you think of the result!

Restoration project: fireplace lintel

Material: belgian bluestone

Finish: velvet

Most of the time I'm posting my staircase projects, but at my core, I'm a banker mason. I thought I'd share a look into the "bread and butter" of our daily work here in Belgium: window sills.

I work almost exclusively with Belgian Blue Stone (also known as Petit Granit). It's funny because, in most parts of the world, this is considered a high-end luxury material used only for premium projects. But here in Belgium, it's our standard building material, we use it for everything from thresholds to full facades.I hope you find this look into our local craft interesting! Happy to answer any questions about the material or the techniques.

After the comments on my recent video, I noticed there’s a bit of confusion about how we handle dust. Working limestone dry is standard practice in our trade, provided you have the right setup. I know it looks scary when you see dust "flying" on camera, but those visible clouds are actually the heavy particles. Because of their mass, they drop to the floor almost instantly and are too large to stay airborne or enter your respiratory system. Once that dust is on the floor, it’s no longer a threat.

​The real risk is the invisible, microscopic dust that stays suspended in the air, and that’s exactly what this Donaldson pulse-jet system is for. This machine cycles air through high-efficiency filters capable of capturing particles as small as 0.1 micron. The "thumping" you hear is the system cleaning itself with high-pressure air pulses to ensure 100% suction. The filtration is so advanced that the air it recirculates is often cleaner than the air in an average home.

​Of course, safety comes first, which is why you should always wear a P3 mask while cutting. It protects you during those few seconds the dust is in motion before the extraction and gravity do their work. I’ve been in this trade for 25 years with continuous safety certification, and while it’s sometimes funny to see "internet experts" argue with someone who lives this every day, I’m happy to share the facts. It’s all about having the right gear and the right knowledge! Tile dust is a lot more dangerous than natural stone dust so keep that in the back of your mind. Stay safe and always wear a mask.

This is how the bulk of the work actually gets done in a fabrication shop. Automated bridge saws, full water suppression, and zero physical risk.

​Like I said before: there’s a time for the hand grinder and a time for the heavy machinery. If you’ve never seen the inside of a fabrication shop, you’re just guessing. I hope this time i get questions instead of a lecture.

Since everyone was so worried about my safety and 'proper technique' in the last post... here’s a one-handed bevel with some dramatic music to match the energy of the comments. I’m just trolling with you guys 😉.

​As a professional, I know my tools and material inside out. I use my knee as an anchor point and make sure the grinder rotates in my direction for maximum control. It’s not something you want to copy if you don’t use a grinder day in and out. Please do not try this at home!

Doing these miters freehand with the grinder. It’s a textured ceramic tile, so you really have to watch the line. the no guard setup isn't for the faint-hearted.