u/DiscussionRemote

▲ 1 r/pools

Doheny E300 Error on Variable Speed Pump, Need advice

Hey there, I've had the "Doheny's Pool Pro VS Variable Speed Above Ground Pool Pump" for a year, hooked it back up this year and it keeps throwing an E300 error and never stops beeping until you reset it. My pool was dirty (partial cover dail) and I've been through 10 gallons of bleach, changed the sand in the filter and backwashed a few times, its clear now. It was doing it after an hour or so, now that its clear the last time it did it was after about 12 hours, there were some leaves in the skimmer basket. I backwashed again and it is working for now. It used to run fine even if there was A LOT of debris in the skimmer. Now it seems incredibally sensistive and just keeps throwing the error if it isn't 100% free flowing. I've checked for debris and don't see any. Is there any way to disable the beeping until I figure it out? My neighbors are gonna kill me, it never stops. What could be going on? (PS Emailed Doheny but they are very slow, especially in pool opening season)

reddit.com
u/DiscussionRemote — 14 hours ago

Sanity check on gcode for Zmod - Guppy Screen

I dunno if anyone has done this but I've almost got this guppy screen thing set up on my AD5X. It doesn't lock up and makes more sense. I'm doing calibrations now. However, when you enable it it gives you a warning to the tune of "if you don't know what Start_print is and stuff don't do this jabronie". Ok well I understand it at a high level but I can't find a guide or anything specific for this implementation. So like the jabronie I am I turned to AI to have it explain and help me configure it. This is what I've come up with and it makes sense on paper, but I don't want my printer flying away. Can anyone validate it looks ok?

For Orca Gcode:

Start:
START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO TOTAL_LAYER=[total_layer_count]

End:
END_PRINT

Before layer change:
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
;[layer_z]
SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO CURRENT_LAYER={layer_num + 1}

PUT THIS IN USER.CFG
________________________
[gcode_macro START_PRINT]
gcode:
# Gather variables from Orca Slicer
{% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|default(60)|float %}
{% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|default(220)|float %}

# Start heating bed (no waiting) to save time
M140 S{BED_TEMP}

# Home all axes
G28

# Load the saved mesh profile (Bypasses auto-leveling)
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default

# Move nozzle to front-left corner to wait
G90
G1 X10 Y10 Z30 F3000

# Wait for exact target temperatures (Guppy monitors these)
M190 S{BED_TEMP}
M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP}

# Purge Line
G92 E0
G1 Z0.28 F240
G1 X10 Y200 Z0.28 F1500 E15
G1 X10.4 Y200 Z0.28 F5000
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500 E30
G92 E0
G1 Z2.0 F3000

[gcode_macro END_PRINT]
gcode:
# Turn off heaters and part fan
TURN_OFF_HEATERS
M107

# Retract filament and raise Z to prevent stringing/crashing
G91
G1 E-2 F2700
G1 Z10 F2400

# Park nozzle back-left and present the plate
G90
G1 X10 Y210 F3000

# Clear printer states and disable motors (Leaves Z active so bed doesn't drop)
CLEAR_PAUSE
M84 X Y E

reddit.com
u/DiscussionRemote — 11 days ago

Zmod/Fluidd Locks up screen very often when anything changes

So I've had quite a weekend trying to get Zmod working on my three printers. Thanks if you've responded to my other posts. I've learned a lot, like how if you don't re do the mesh calibration after doing the screw calibration, you are an idiot. Anyways, I've got it where its almost working well. My biggest problem is the printers physical screen locks up a lot now (it happens on all 3 I have). If its locked up it also won't accept jobs. I have to reboot the whole thing. It seems to happen when I make a tweak or change in Fluidd but sometimes just happens. Any tips to prevent it or is it just what it is now? Firmware 1.2.3, orca and Zmod are latest updates.

reddit.com
u/DiscussionRemote — 12 days ago

AD5X on Zmod/Fluidd - Bypass or fix filament mapping screen

So I feel a little dumb but I can't figure out how to fix this screen. I followed ZMOD install instructions and have everything working, but this behaviour puzzles me. I would either want it to just map whatever the slicer color is and do a 1:1 mapping for the different IFS modules (IE 1>1, 2>2, ect) or just bypass the screen all together and just map it based on the number I put in the slicer (IE If I give an object filament number of 2, it just maps to fillament 2 on the IFS. The auto select colors doesn't do anything, I've tried matching colors but it always just returns everything to #1. As of now I just manually set 1 to 1, 2 to 2, ect.

u/DiscussionRemote — 13 days ago

How to permanently disable the message? Zmod

Any idea how to permanently disable the firmware update other than taking it off the internet or doing a vlan (have a crappy comcast router)? I know I'm gonna accidentally click it at some point. I'm stable on 1.2.3 and got Zmod all setup. Its perfect, I want to freeze it in time.

u/DiscussionRemote — 14 days ago

Ok so I had a catastropic print yesterday, it got about 3/4 up and then started printing a birdsnest. Wasn't there to see it. I replaced the nozzle, recalibrated everything, homed it, did a hard power down, and tried a few small prints that all failed. I got a video. In this case I"m just doing a retraction tower. After a few mm it changes the coordinates and starts printing in mid air forward and to the right. Then when it finishes it slaps against the side and the doesn't actually home the head to the poop chute, its to the right. If I reset everything it will re-home properly but then do it again. I checked the belts and the look ok, tense and no broken parts. The pulleys seem to all move, but I"m not an expert. What is happening?

u/DiscussionRemote — 16 days ago

So I've been trying to get this right for a while, I finally did a sucessful print. Now it is breaking again, the only difference is was using COMGROW clear PETG and switched to SUNLU. Its dry filllament, .6 nozzle, .2 layer height, bridge is at 100% fan for 25% plus. It only does this at the bottom. Tried various calibrations. This one was at 235C but also tried 240. No crossy walls, spinning z hop. Any other ideas I could be missing?

u/DiscussionRemote — 16 days ago

I just enclosed my AD5X's in the hopes PETG I print a lot has less problems. So far so good. Just got a .6mm nozzle and am trying to get it to be close in quality but the top just looks a lot more wavy. I've been through about 4 iterations with googling/ai suggestions and I can't get it to look much better. Things like changing the pattern, more infill, top layer flow ratio. I don't want to give up just yet because the print speed is sooo much faster.

The prints also pull up a lot more but that might be something else I need to tweak. Granted I'm living on the edge with mouse ears but I'm trying to optimize the production process as much as possible, ie dealing with removing a brim every time. This is basic PETG, max volume is 8, 80ms for top and sides, 255C.

Is this just the reality of how it will look or am I missing a cheat code? thanks

u/DiscussionRemote — 26 days ago